Ugly reloading precision primer seater

@BuildingConceptsllc

I dunno if this helps, but as you can see the bar is fast and machined nicely on the push/finger end.


Yeah I can tell that it's very easy to push on your video. I called and I ordered so that's done. He said he thinks sometime around end of the month or first of March he will have em ready to ship out. Can't wait to try it out.
 
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So with the adjustable arm on the 419 a bolt on tab could be put on the arm to press the primer loader on every upstroke. I’m sure that would work on most presses. Every time you raise the handle and lower the ram a new primer would be charged. Shortstroking the ram this dang thing could be fast. This seems like an easy home project or someone like mkm could make a universal one if this product takes off. You heard it here first.
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Do they stay pretty consistent? Thinking about using my 650 to prime.
I used my 750 on new starline 300blk and cci primers and had a hell of a time getting all of them flush or below. I even have the adjustable height stop that lets you go beyond factory set primer depth. I measured the primer ram and even had Dillon send me another, nothing worked. It just didn't seem to have enough leverage to seat them down to depth. So far though, I haven't had any issues with the ammo.
 
Do they stay pretty consistent? Thinking about using my 650 to prime.

I used my 750 on new starline 300blk and cci primers and had a hell of a time getting all of them flush or below. I even have the adjustable height stop that lets you go beyond factory set primer depth. I measured the primer ram and even had Dillon send me another, nothing worked. It just didn't seem to have enough leverage to seat them down to depth. So far though, I haven't had any issues with the ammo.
I prime all my brass on my 750, never had an issue with primer depth. I even prime my ELR brass on there, across 10 rounds my ES is about 10 with SD of 2-3.
 
Saw this post about the derraco poor man primer tool. Sorry for late reply but I had recently bought one and I’m not too happy. But maybe I’m doing something wrong. Pls help me…

So I did everything the instruction said. And I notice unlike the hand ones you can’t feel the primer going in. Also I tried even at max setting the primer did not move in the case the large primer was still flush to the head instead of being slightly lower. I feel like have to bang on the press lever to push up the primer but I think this is not right either I did not do it. It’s difficult to tell on a press how much primer moved without a measuring tool. I wish this had a gauge.

I’m going to buy a K&M with gauge although it’s hand priming at least it measures the pocket the primer and how much pressure needed to seat.
Only negative is that it uses lee holders also.
 
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Saw this post about the derraco poor man primer tool. Sorry for late reply but I had recently bought one and I’m not too happy. But maybe I’m doing something wrong. Pls help me…

So I did everything the instruction said. And I notice unlike the hand ones you can’t feel the primer going in. Also I tried even at max setting the primer did not move in the case the large primer was still flush to the head instead of being slightly lower. I feel like have to bang on the press lever to push up the primer but I think this is not right either I did not do it. It’s difficult to tell on a press how much primer moved without a measuring tool. I wish this had a gauge.

I’m going to buy a K&M with gauge although it’s hand priming at least it measures the pocket the primer and how much pressure needed to seat.
Only negative is that it uses lee holders also.
What press are you using? I have a hard stop if I go too deep. Therefore, I can set primer depth right below flush, or whatever I want.

It sounds like maybe you didn't thread the PCPS deep enough to account for adjustments?
 
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I’m using rock chuck supreme Rcbs. I followed the instructions all the way. The die only has about inch between the bottom of die and top of press.

I dialed micrometer to max deep with case on.
Then dialed clockwise less deep till case barely comes out. This is where I started. At first I pushed primer up at this point but the case would not come out of holder as the primer still sticking out so I had to adjust deeper counter clcok. About 60 clicks. The case finally came out. I noticed now that there is gab between anvil and micrometer at this point. The primer is just flush to the head so I go in more deeper all the way to maximum and still primer would not go in further. Perhaps it’s my case. I have never had this issue with hand primers. Plus as I mentioned I like the feel of the hand priming tool that is why I’m getting the k&m there is a gauge to measure how much effort your squeezing also. I wish this had a gauge also.
 
Here is my setup with the RCBS Rock Chucker IV and the .223 Rem shell holder. I was amazed at the consistency. I needed this because of my arthritic hands more than precision. I measured using the Mitutoyo digital caliper (not the most accurate method). But my shooting style does not justify buying a Mitutoyo depth gauge. Or the Accuracy One Precision Primer Gauge.

The primers slip in smoothly with little effort and I believe I can feel when the anvil touches bottom. Takes a little more effort to push the anvil in.
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I’m using rock chuck supreme Rcbs. I followed the instructions all the way. The die only has about inch between the bottom of die and top of press.

I dialed micrometer to max deep with case on.
Then dialed clockwise less deep till case barely comes out. This is where I started. At first I pushed primer up at this point but the case would not come out of holder as the primer still sticking out so I had to adjust deeper counter clcok. About 60 clicks. The case finally came out. I noticed now that there is gab between anvil and micrometer at this point. The primer is just flush to the head so I go in more deeper all the way to maximum and still primer would not go in further. Perhaps it’s my case. I have never had this issue with hand primers. Plus as I mentioned I like the feel of the hand priming tool that is why I’m getting the k&m there is a gauge to measure how much effort your squeezing also. I wish this had a gauge also.
Doesn't seem right at all. I'd suggest calling Carl. He literally answers the phone 7 days a week at all hours of the day. But I would suggest calling on Mountain Standard Time. 😉😉
 
Here is my setup with the RCBS Rock Chucker IV and the .223 Rem shell holder. I was amazed at the consistency. I needed this because of my arthritic hands more than precision. I measured using the Mitutoyo digital caliper (not the most accurate method). But my shooting style does not justify buying a Mitutoyo depth gauge. Or the Accuracy One Precision Primer Gauge.

The primers slip in smoothly with little effort and I believe I can feel when the anvil touches bottom. Takes a little more effort to push the anvil in.
View attachment 8428274View attachment 8428272View attachment 8428273
Thank you Conaso this is actually how I set mine up and also as you see in the photo there is a gap between anvil and micrometer. Also the same amount of space between the die and top of press. Perhaps it works so good that as you mentioned you “believe” that you can feel the bottom. Also a little more effort to punch the anvil in as you mention. I guess what I’m doing is correct. I will try new cases and see if that makes a difference. But I also just ordered the hand k&m gauged priming tool. Both together is still cheaper than the primal rights. Lol
 
Thank you Conaso this is actually how I set mine up and also as you see in the photo there is a gap between anvil and micrometer. Also the same amount of space between the die and top of press. Perhaps it works so good that as you mentioned you “believe” that you can feel the bottom. Also a little more effort to punch the anvil in as you mention. I guess what I’m doing is correct. I will try new cases and see if that makes a difference. But I also just ordered the hand k&m gauged priming tool. Both together is still cheaper than the primal rights. Lol

Century first tools has the best primer gauge. Check it out
 
Century first tools has the best primer gauge. Check it out
No question on the quality and functionality of the Accuracy One's components but I'd like to know who manufactures their digital indicator. Every similar appears to be made in China and the reviews are not very good. Other quality indicators, e.g., Mitutoyo, etc., are as expensive as AO tool.
 
No question on the quality and functionality of the Accuracy One's components but I'd like to know who manufactures their digital indicator. Every similar appears to be made in China and the reviews are not very good. Other quality indicators, e.g., Mitutoyo, etc., are as expensive as AO tool.
I have an Accuracy One that is a few years old and the digital indicator is made by iGaging. I don't have any validation tools to give you an idea of how accurate the gauge is.
 
I have a precision primer seater… not one of the “Ugly” units. But I use it for my really high-precision reloads. Holland guns Perfect Primer Seater. Been using one at least 12 years.


They do work and are absolutely worth it. IF you are using really top practices in every other stage of the reloading.

If you are banging out rounds for steel or making “ordinary” handloads, a precision primer seater will likely make no difference to the repeatability of your ammo.

But it is one more variable, albeit a tiny one, that you can eliminate and added to every other small variable can make a difference. Everything about precision handloading is about eliminating variables… creating consistency. That’s where these units come in.

The Holland unit is really well-engineered. And with proper pocket prep makes utterly consistent priming. I can’t speak for the Ugly. But suspect it is effective when combined with similar attention to detail at every other step along the way.

Great thread!

Cheers, Sirhr

PS. I also have a press mount primer depth seater/micrometer on my big press that I load .50 BMG on. Not that I am trying for extreme accuracy there. But for extreme safety. BMG can be unforgiving When it comes to small details!
 
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And one thing I picked up from this thread is that Ugly is making precision shell holders. That is definitely interesting. I’ve always thought the one-size fits all shell holders were a bit of a weak link.

Next chance I get, I’ll get together a list of holders I want to upgrade! Did I mention, great thread!

Sirhr
Yeah I got like 6 of em so I could use em in all my primer stuff that uses thr lee style shell holder. They have less slop and are pretty nice
 
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I'm excited to try this thing.

I've been a fan of the Frankford Arsenal Perfect Seat hand primer and have made many thousands of rounds with it, it's fast and low drama.

That said, I have decent grip strength and can close a Captains of Crush #2, but I have to admit that when I'm priming 100-300 cases at a time I nearly always get lazy and half-ass a few or more with Alpha OCD brass and their stiff pockets. Enough so where I've experienced delayed ignition here and there.

Hopefully, this thing should help me eliminate some human error, and besides, my hands aren't getting any younger.
 
Tagging thread. Just getting started with reloading, buying all my case prep equipment first. Bought an Ugly primer seater a couple weeks ago because I'm not sure what loading press(es) I'm going to end up with yet and hand priming tools are a no-go. After spending years of turning wrenches, my hands cramp too easily to even consider using those. Looks like I made a good choice by grabbing a set of their shell holders too.

And speaking of presses...... (sorry for the thread derail)

Thanks for that side by side pic of the T7 and Zero. I've been looking hard at turret presses lately. Where does the T7 fall short compared to the Zero and is there anything that the T7 does better?
 
I’m able to maintain +/- 1 thousandth accuracy on alpha dasher brass with nothing done to the primer pockets. That is using an accuracy one precision primer gauge. I’m happy with that number and it super easy and quick. Will probably buy another one for large rifle primer that way I don’t have to change it around all the time. That is with Hornady lock n load bushing on it as well for quick changes.
 
Tagging thread. Just getting started with reloading, buying all my case prep equipment first. Bought an Ugly primer seater a couple weeks ago because I'm not sure what loading press(es) I'm going to end up with yet and hand priming tools are a no-go. After spending years of turning wrenches, my hands cramp too easily to even consider using those. Looks like I made a good choice by grabbing a set of their shell holders too.

And speaking of presses...... (sorry for the thread derail)


Thanks for that side by side pic of the T7 and Zero. I've been looking hard at turret presses lately. Where does the T7 fall short compared to the Zero and is there anything that the T7 does better?
The T7 does not have a turret lock s rew , like the zero does, which means there is some play in it, and the zero is just nicer overall. That said, after I honed the bushing in my Lyman 8 (just like a T7) , it has virtually zero play in it and works great producing consistent ammo. Also the primer catch on the zero is a lot better and it holds more dies per turret.
 
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The T7 does not have a turret lock s rew , like the zero does, which means there is some play in it, and the zero is just nicer overall. That said, after I honed the bushing in my Lyman 8 (just like a T7) , it has virtually zero play in it and works great producing consistent ammo. Also the primer catch on the zero is a lot better and it holds more dies per turret.
Lol, every review I've read and watched videos on about the Lyman turret all say they've had to deburr/polish something to get them operating smoothly. But, I've been considering it as well just because of the price factor. The RCBS turret press is the only turret press I haven't done any real research on yet. I like the beefier construction of the T7 over the Lyman, but I'm sure the Lyman is built well enough to do the task. I need to take a closer look at the priming catch of the Zero because that could be a selling point for me. I'm not too impressed from what I've seen with the Redding's or Lyman's primer catches. The less I have to pick up spent primers off the floor and dumping spent primer trays/tubes the happier I'll be.
 
This thing is legit and is a keeper.

…and in case anyone was wondering (I was), it’s Vibra-Prime compatible! The Vibra-Prime’s tube fits it like it was designed for it, there’s virtually no wiggle at all.

Just ran 200rds without a hiccup, every one the same as the next.


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Lol, every review I've read and watched videos on about the Lyman turret all say they've had to deburr/polish something to get them operating smoothly. But, I've been considering it as well just because of the price factor. The RCBS turret press is the only turret press I haven't done any real research on yet. I like the beefier construction of the T7 over the Lyman, but I'm sure the Lyman is built well enough to do the task. I need to take a closer look at the priming catch of the Zero because that could be a selling point for me. I'm not too impressed from what I've seen with the Redding's or Lyman's primer catches. The less I have to pick up spent primers off the floor and dumping spent primer trays/tubes the happier I'll be.
Neither the T7 or the Lyman have primer catches worth a crap. That said, the Lyman has always operated smoothly, it's just a very tiny amount of slop that I took out sanding or polishing really the bushing , but I am positive the T7 will require the same to get it as tight as my Lyman is. I'm not positive that it would matter with either one though, it's just my nature to want things as good as they can be so don't take it the wrong way. The T7 is also really good, a friend of mine has one and he's who told me to do the bushing thing.

The primer catch thing is not a huge deal but at the same time, the zero is SOOO much easier to fool with concerning primers. The only thing that I like better about the Lyman is the room for my hand has seating bullets. The zero is tight in that area. One guy on here who has an ammo outfit was selling his which he had milled the "ears" off of. Looks like a better design honestly. That's the only flaw, otherwise the zero is fantastic and the locking screw isn't my fave to do but it does make you certain there's no slope. That's the only way to not have slop at all with a turret
 
Neither the T7 or the Lyman have primer catches worth a crap. That said, the Lyman has always operated smoothly, it's just a very tiny amount of slop that I took out sanding or polishing really the bushing , but I am positive the T7 will require the same to get it as tight as my Lyman is.
I'm not expecting the T7, or most other presses for that matter, to be without their own sets of quirks.

I'm not positive that it would matter with either one though, it's just my nature to want things as good as they can be so don't take it the wrong way. The T7 is also really good, a friend of mine has one and he's who told me to do the bushing thing.
I hear you there. A guy at the local gun club swears by the Lyman. He regularly places first or second in our rifle competitions so it can't be a bad press. I have heard of people having to polish the bushings on the T7's as well.

The primer catch thing is not a huge deal but at the same time, the zero is SOOO much easier to fool with concerning primers. The only thing that I like better about the Lyman is the room for my hand has seating bullets. The zero is tight in that area. One guy on here who has an ammo outfit was selling his which he had milled the "ears" off of. Looks like a better design honestly. That's the only flaw, otherwise the zero is fantastic and the locking screw isn't my fave to do but it does make you certain there's no slope. That's the only way to not have slop at all with a turret
I remember that add. I was watching it and just one paycheck away from being able to afford it at the time it sold. I'm keeping that mod in mind incase I decide to shell out $$$$ for the Zero. My plans with a turret press concerning rifle and precision loading were to use it for the sizing, de-capping, and priming steps and do my powder dumping with an Autotrickler or Ingenuity and do bullet seating on another press like a K&M arbor press w/force pack or an AMP press (if funds allow). That way I have one turret for every two or three cartridges which I hope will minimize set up times and space saving on the bench comparable to a Dillon press. I'm considering them as well, but I'm not currently shooting the volume to justify buying an XL750 over a turret press just yet.
 
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I'm not expecting the T7, or most other presses for that matter, to be without their own sets of quirks.


I hear you there. A guy at the local gun club swears by the Lyman. He regularly places first or second in our rifle competitions so it can't be a bad press. I have heard of people having to polish the bushings on the T7's as well.


I remember that add. I was watching it and just one paycheck away from being able to afford it at the time it sold. I'm keeping that mod in mind incase I decide to shell out $$$$ for the Zero. My plans with a turret press concerning rifle and precision loading were to use it for the sizing, de-capping, and priming steps and do my powder dumping with an Autotrickler or Ingenuity and do bullet seating on another press like a K&M arbor press w/force pack or an AMP press (if funds allow). That way I have one turret for every two or three cartridges which I hope will minimize set up times and space saving on the bench comparable to a Dillon press. I'm considering them as well, but I'm not currently shooting the volume to justify buying an XL750 over a turret press just yet.
Yeah I get that. That's why I have the Lyman and the zero. I almost bought hat zero with the ears trimmed off but I really like the Lyman and with 2 turrets I have them set up so I don't have move anything, and can even leave large and small primer set ups of UR primer. It's pretty nice.
 
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@Barzor and @Conaso (and anyone else having trouble setting this thing up) hopefully you guys figured it out already, but what you guys described above about not getting the primers seated deep enough or it taking some decent effort to seat primers, happened to me when I was setting mine up at first... You probably need to back yours out of the press so the anvil interacts with the bottom of the seater when the ram is near the top of its stroke.

At first, I thought I'd be a smarty-pants and I screwed the seater as low as I could into the top of my press thinking I'd be able to short-stroke it and go faster... but it didn't work out that way, it just made seating primers tough, and I ran into the same problem of primers not getting seated as deep as I wanted. Once I backed the seater out, seating primers became incredibly easy and required little effort (due to more leverage with the ram at the top of its stroke) and I was easily able to dial my primer depth (with every one coming out the same once set).

Even with more stroke, it's still fast as shit, and when properly setup it stomps on the dinky overpriced OG CPS.
 
@Barzor and @Conaso (and anyone else having trouble setting this thing up) hopefully you guys figured it out already, but what you guys described above about not getting the primers seated deep enough or it taking some decent effort to seat primers, happened to me when I was setting mine up at first... You probably need to back yours out of the press so the anvil interacts with the bottom of the seater when the ram is near the top of its stroke.

At first, I thought I'd be a smarty-pants and I screwed the seater as low as I could into the top of my press thinking I'd be able to short-stroke it and go faster... but it didn't work out that way, it just made seating primers tough, and I ran into the same problem of primers not getting seated as deep as I wanted. Once I backed the seater out, seating primers became incredibly easy and required little effort (due to more leverage with the ram at the top of its stroke) and I was easily able to dial my primer depth (with every one coming out the same once set).

Even with more stroke, it's still fast as shit, and when properly setup it stomps on the dinky overpriced OG CPS.
What tool are you using to measure your depth? I’m getting about + or - 1 thousandth using primer gauge from accuracy one. I’m also using Hornady lock and load bushing could be part of my issue why I’m having some variance. I cannot say I see the difference on paper but it’s a piece of mind knowing everything is pretty much the same.
 
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What tool are you using to measure your depth? I’m getting about + or - 1 thousandth using primer gauge from accuracy one. I’m also using Hornady lock and load bushing could be part of my issue why I’m having some variance. I cannot say I see the difference on paper but it’s a piece of mind knowing everything is pretty much the same.

I’m just using calipers and can tell that it’s close enough for me.

Personally, I wouldn’t worry about it. I put zero stock in the difference of one or even a couple/few thou in primer seating depth having any meaningful effect on anything, how one slept the night before, or what they had for breakfast undoubtedly matters more lol.
 
What tool are you using to measure your depth? I’m getting about + or - 1 thousandth using primer gauge from accuracy one. I’m also using Hornady lock and load bushing could be part of my issue why I’m having some variance. I cannot say I see the difference on paper but it’s a piece of mind knowing everything is pretty much the same.

For my purpose, calipers, although they are awkward for me to use. The PCPS is seating primers consistently and I am happy with the product. Since I only shoot recreationally, and it would be used only for initially setting the desired seating depth, I haven't convinced myself to invest $210+ in the Accuracy One Precision Primer Gauge.
 
For my purpose, calipers, although they are awkward for me to use. The PCPS is seating primers consistently and I am happy with the product. Since I only shoot recreationally, and it would be used only for initially setting the desired seating depth, I haven't convinced myself to invest $210+ in the Accuracy One Precision Primer Gauge.
I’m the same way just like nice tools. I think it’s plenty accurate just curious how to get it more constant seating but sounds like I’m probably getting about as good as expected. I’m happy with it just wanted to make sure I couldn’t squeeze a little better out of it. I doubt it without uniforming the primer pockets.
 
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Brass is such a soft metal to work with, the metal version of Play-Doh, IMO there's probably no way to eliminate every dimensional variance case to case. Damned spring-back and shit lol.

But, we can control what we can control, things like using good brass, same lots, raised/cared for the same, etc ...and primers seated to the relative same depth, every case. Which is exactly what the PCPS does.

The primer pockets on the Alpha OCD brass I've been running have almost held up too well... Even with 11x firings/cycles on 'em I'd been having a tough time getting every single primer to the same depth below the case head. The PCPS, combined with all the leverage of a grown-man-sized press, handles stout primer pockets like they're not even there. It's so easy that one has to exercise some restraint, and it's like a calming lullaby to my reloading ocd.

(I'm actually hoping I didn't set mine too deep, I was looking for 6 thou, my first one was 8 thou below the case head and looked nice, so I went with it... I'll see I guess lol.)
 
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I went with 4 thousandth on mine.

I think 4-6 thou is generally the norm (due to primers and pockets being roughly the same height, plus 4-6 thou crush), and I'll probably set it to that next cycle. I was kind of amazed how easy 8 thou was and some of those pockets have been a bitch so maybe my "swage pass" will help normalize things lol...
 
I think 4-6 thou is generally the norm (due to primers and pockets being roughly the same height, plus 4-6 thou crush), and I'll probably set it to that next cycle. I was kind of amazed how easy 8 thou was and some of those pockets have been a bitch so maybe my "swage pass" will help normalize things lol...
I was lucky to get hold of a Lee ACP tool that works really well and doesn't index of the case rim for more exact seating. I've modified the insert holder to where the seating pin can be adjusted to various seating depths. While I liked my 21st Century hand seating tool for its adjustability and ease on the hands (I keep it as a back up or something to use at the range), the ACP is way faster and produces more consistent results.

My objective is to seat primers where the primer cup comes in contact with the bottom of the primer pocket. When I do that, I get really good consistency in velocity. When one take a primer out of the package to measure, the anvil is sticking up and its that anvil than need to be pushed down. Since that measurement varies from on brand to another, I'll want to know just what it is and make adjustment accordingly. Like, my Federal SRP will measure .118-.120 and my Remington SRP measures .122-.124. I can't leave the setting the same between the two when the primer pockets are .119" as .004 below flush can work with the Remington SRP but not with the Federal SRP's.

I've tried seating .008 and .010" below flush with a couple different one's and they work, but I just don't get as consistent results. Recently, I decided to actually record this seating depth on my spreadsheet along with the other data and will see what the numbers say over time. :giggle:

See differences in primer pocket depth:
Small Primer Pocket brass comparison a.jpg
 
Had my first primer go off while priming today with pcps not sure why it let me double feed a primer. I am shocked how loud it was my ears are still ringing. I will for sure start wearing safety glasses after that. On the plus side it only messed the case up I finished priming the rest of the cases I had.
Wow glad your ok, I am running the same setup The only thing I can think of is your brass had a very loose pocket and the primer fell back out. I really can not see how you could have gotten two primers in the same slide.
 
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Weirdly enough, I was just priming a couple of hundred cases, and after not using the thing in a while (and because the thing makes it so easy to seat them), I was telling myself "Whoa tough guy, don't want to blow a primer indoors"...

Not saying @K80/6.5 is guilty of it, but double feed or not, I could see how someone could easily go full ham-fisted guerilla and blow some.