Gunsmithing Ultrasonic discoloration

pronelife

Private
Minuteman
Aug 7, 2017
22
22
Missouri
I ran the twins through the ultrasonic using 1 part simple green to 4 parts tap water. Not so happy with the blotchy results. Action on the bottom still showing tiger stripes after Lucas Oil CLP and Ballistol application; top action is straight outta the bath with water flush and air gun dry.

Is there anything I can apply to the finish to get it back to where it was pre-ultrasonic or is this just another expensive lesson?


impact actions opt.jpg
 
I don't think you're supposed to use CLR on phosphate or nitride finished parts... It will discolor a phosphate BCG...I tested it on an old BCG I had laying around that I didn't care about the finish on, as it's had thousands of rounds on it at this point, and is close to getting an upgrade. LOL

Just google searched and the Impact actions are black nitride finish. Then did another google search, and yep, I was correct, not supposed to use CLR on nitrided parts. That said, I didn't have any issues using it on a cerakoted titanium suppressor with a 3:1 water/CLR ratio in the ultra. The only reason it smudged was because I got the temp a little too hot. Next time I won't run the heat.

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I don't think you're supposed to use CLR on phosphate or nitride finished parts... It will discolor a phosphate BCG... Ask me how I know. LOL

Just google searched and the Impact actions are black nitride finish. Then did another google search, and yep, I was correct, not supposed to use CLR on nitrided parts. That said, I didn't have any issues using it on a cerakoted titanium suppressor with a 3:1 water/CLR ratio in the ultra. The only reason it smudged was because I got the temp a little too hot. Next time I won't run the heat.

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Well then it's a good thing he didn't use clr.
 
Not adding much but I never understand why people use “home brew”.

But the correct product for the correct coating and desired result.

There are temperature considerations as well as some solutions and products are designed to work with distilled water.

Hope it works out
 
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A 4:1 Simple Green solution is pretty strong.

I only put a couple tablespoons in with a half gallon of water when cleaning guns and have never seen an issue, including phosphate and nitride finishes.
 
I'm assuming you have a relatively small ultrasonic cleaner and you put the receiver by the transducer.

Use a cold bluing solution (Oxpho-Blue, Birchwood Casey Super blue, Perma Blue, etc) to try to put an oxide layer back onto the nitrided receiver. Problem is the nitrided receiver would be more resistant to bluing, so it may not work well but will be less blotchy.
 
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It's nitride so the base metal is fine. You can choose a hundred different options to 'fix' this non-issue and all of them will work. Live with it, or wipe a very light oil on the action and then remove all of it that you can with a cloth and it will probably look homogenous.
 
It's nitride so the base metal is fine. You can choose a hundred different options to 'fix' this non-issue and all of them will work. Live with it, or wipe a very light oil on the action and then remove all of it that you can with a cloth and it will probably look homogenous.
I had a reciever that was blotchy like that. Whiped it down with non chlorinated break clean and then oiled it. That solved it for me.

This is all good info to know incase I ever dunk a nitride BCG in the wash... 👍🏼

I ended up washing my phosphate BCG with Dawn and then hot water, and then wiped it down with RemOil, and then coated it in Aeroshell 33/64 before sticking it all back together and in the receiver. Looks fine, and moves slicker than it ever has.
 
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I did this once on a muzzle brake, it was from the heat created by the ultrasonic. I'm glad I learned that lesson on a muzzle brake and not an action. It can't be fixed.
 
We can be frank, everyone wants to buy the scopes that show up in the PX with a haphazard spraypaint job. Factory pristine scopes are fine, sure, but the real value in a scope is someone trusting it enough to Krylon that baby.
 
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I have found simple green is prone to discoloring things. I know too little too late but I am very careful what I use it on.

That damage does not look that bad. For every “it can’t be fixed”, there is someone fixing. The key is not to cause more problems with haphazard fix attempts. I would consult with some people who nitride for a living, if it were me….
 
I ran the twins through the ultrasonic using 1 part simple green to 4 parts tap water. Not so happy with the blotchy results. Action on the bottom still showing tiger stripes after Lucas Oil CLP and Ballistol application; top action is straight outta the bath with water flush and air gun dry.

Is there anything I can apply to the finish to get it back to where it was pre-ultrasonic or is this just another expensive lesson?


View attachment 8332549
WHY???????
 
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