I am in the middle of building up a 300 blk on a complete Noveske 10.2" upper. So all I really have to do is assemble the lower. Not a big deal for 99% of the guys on here. Well I completed the lower tonight and it was quite enjoyable. I recommend anyone who shoots ar-15's to build their own just so you get a better understanding of how all the parts work together. On to my question...when I got the lower from noveske, it had a aac flash hider installed. I am going to put a surefire socom suppressor on this thing, so I need to loose the aac and installed the surefire. The problem I am running into is what upper vice block do I use? It has a VLTOR upper and I could not get my brownells upper receiver clamps to fit so I called brownells and they said it wont work for billeted uppers, only forged. So I need to get this off, and I figure for the price of taking it to the smith I could buy a set of clamps and do it myself. I've taken them off before, but they were all off of forged uppers so the brownells clamps works. Thanks in advance. I got another question, but I'll post that in another thread.
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Gunsmithing Upper vice block
- Thread starter Munson
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Haven't used it yet (got both the LR-10 and AR-15 versions on order) but I've heard enough good things about the Geissele Reaction Rods to purchase them. They work regardless if the upper is forged or billet, just an idea for you.
Just whittle out your Brownells blocks. Take some blue painters tape and put it on the blocks, close them on the upper and relieve the contact points. The tape will highlight the contact points.
Do not use the block that holds the upper by the pin bosses. You can deform the pin bosses on the upper if you torque the barrel nut/flash hider.
Don't ask me how I know.(removing a barrel nut that had about 3 quarts of red Loctite used on installation for some unknown reason)
Edit: in looking at the Geissle Reaction rod, just roll your own. Take a piece of 1" cold roll round, bore the end so an old bolt will slip in and weld it in place.
Do not use the block that holds the upper by the pin bosses. You can deform the pin bosses on the upper if you torque the barrel nut/flash hider.
Don't ask me how I know.(removing a barrel nut that had about 3 quarts of red Loctite used on installation for some unknown reason)
Edit: in looking at the Geissle Reaction rod, just roll your own. Take a piece of 1" cold roll round, bore the end so an old bolt will slip in and weld it in place.
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Contrary to popular belief, do not use an upper holding fixture to install or remove a muzzle device. The only torque that should be applied to fixtures is when installing or removing barrel nut. Yeah, I know, "I've never had a problem doing it that way", but you will damage the upper when the barrel twists.
Clamp the barrel in a barrel vise. If one is not available, and the technique used in armorer courses I've attended, is clamp the barrel in a sturdy bench vise equipped with hard non-marring jaws. I use two blocks of hardwood and clamp the fool out of it - even use a cheater on the vise handle. Clamp the barrel, not the FSH or gas block, as close to the muzzle as possible. Take an open-end wrench on the FH/brake and whack it with a hammer (I use a 2 lb, not a wimpy utility hammer). It may take several hits. If the barrel twists, it's not tight enough - tighten the vise since hardwood compresses to a degree.
Clamp the barrel in a barrel vise. If one is not available, and the technique used in armorer courses I've attended, is clamp the barrel in a sturdy bench vise equipped with hard non-marring jaws. I use two blocks of hardwood and clamp the fool out of it - even use a cheater on the vise handle. Clamp the barrel, not the FSH or gas block, as close to the muzzle as possible. Take an open-end wrench on the FH/brake and whack it with a hammer (I use a 2 lb, not a wimpy utility hammer). It may take several hits. If the barrel twists, it's not tight enough - tighten the vise since hardwood compresses to a degree.
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Thanks guys. I came across this today from Brownell's.... AR-15/M16/308-AR Barrel Extension Torque Tools | Brownells
This appears to be the same product for more than half the cost...and its in stock. Is this the same thing?
This appears to be the same product for more than half the cost...and its in stock. Is this the same thing?
It seems to be similarly designed, but the biggest difference I see is that it is just round bar stock. The reaction rod has flats milled in to lock in a vice. That's a key feature to me.
If I recall correctly, the brownells tool is designed to be used with the barrel nut wrench (which should have a handle with flats) locked in a vice. You then have to hold the upper, with the nut in the nut wrench, while you turn the brownells tool with a 3/8" ratchet. It seems complicated to me.
If you are military or LEO, I believe DSG Arms has the Geisselle tool at a discount.
If I recall correctly, the brownells tool is designed to be used with the barrel nut wrench (which should have a handle with flats) locked in a vice. You then have to hold the upper, with the nut in the nut wrench, while you turn the brownells tool with a 3/8" ratchet. It seems complicated to me.
If you are military or LEO, I believe DSG Arms has the Geisselle tool at a discount.
The last rifle I built with a VLTOR upper, I just stuck it in my brownell's vice block and stuck it in the vise. The VLTOR upper didnt fit perfectly in the block, but it squeezes the upper against the plastic insert, and the insert prevents the upper receiver from being deformed by the clamping force. YMMV, but it worked perfectly for me.
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