Suppressors Using the 30BA without a permanent brake on all platforms

[jaredinco]

Does anyone have any ideas? There is a rumor that someone is making a sleeve that covers the ports but I cannot find it. I also had some ideas bout making a non-brake attachment point, essentially a thread adapter but a concern for safe function was raised. If the suppressor is run on to the brake without fixing the brake to the rifle it turns it in to a 30P-1 essentially but it may never come apart again.

Any other ideas?

 

[KYS]

So why not buy the 30P-1 instead of doing all this work?

 

[Zak Smith]

I'm hoping the gentlemen who stopped by at SHOT Show with the sleeve can chime in here. I've lost your contact info!

 

[jaredinco]

I already own the 30BA and ended up building several more rifles which wasn't the plan initially. Looking back the 30P-1 could have been the right choice.

 

[Zak Smith]

You could very carefully machine two slots in the back of the brake (towards the outside so the shouldering area is not disturbed) so you could use a spanner.

 

[KYS]

So what you are getting at is you have more rifles then TBAC brakes and you want to install the brake into the can and leave it in there? Basically creating a thread on suppressor....

 

[jaredinco]

If I sent the brake to TBAC is that something you could do for me?

 

[Zak Smith]

I'll check with our head machinist and get back to you..

 

[ZY100]

Interesting....I love my BA, but now have 4 x TBAC brakes (almost half the price of another can) and if I could do it over just might have gone with a direct thread and some thread protectors. I find I now like to shoot everything with the can on and do move it around form rifle to rifle a bit. I do have a few other cans, but this is my go-to 30 cal...and I am still trying to love that big old brake hanging off the front. I know, it aint about looks....

Anyways, I have toyed with the idea of Tig welding a nut on the back of one of the brakes (for a wrench to grab) and rockseting the break into the can. Not perminant, but would certainly take a little work--and probably an overnight soak in some water--to get it apart.

Just thinking for now...

ZY

 

[Zak Smith]

Yes, we can do the modification for a pretty nominal fee. Please email us if you'd like to proceed.

 

[Engine 22]

That's exactly why I went with the 30P-1.
1- the great customer service.
2- the ability tomount on multiple rifles without having to purchase 5 brake attachments.

 

[Sendero_Man]

I had to go with the BA, for the fact that I have several rifles I purchased slightly used and all have been threaded different.

Easier to get BA's for them, then to try to have them all threaded the same.

 

[Shane C.]

Anyways, I have toyed with the idea of Tig welding a nut on the back of one of the brakes (for a wrench to grab) and rockseting the break into the can. Not perminant, but would certainly take a little work--and probably an overnight soak in some water--to get it apart.

Just thinking for now...

ZY

Don't do it, you could cause alignment issues between the brake and the barrel shoulder.

 

[jaredinco]

I would like to try the span wrench solution. How can I get a new 5/8x24 brake with the notches? I sent an email to Zak as well.

 

[Zak Smith]

Email incoming..

 

[Shane C.]

Here you go.

These are maximum dimensions and will work with a 3/4" threaded brake.
Use red locktite.

 

[Shane C.]

Oh yea. Make sure there are no burrs around the holes.

 

[jaredinco]

Grainger has compatible 3/16"x1/4" adjustable spanner wrenches. Any other suggestions are welcome.

 

[Quack303Head]

Tag. Keep us posted if you have this done.

 

[jaredinco]

Wrapped up the work last night. I will try and get some pictures up. A cobalt bit and a drill press are a must. I used a 13/64" bit and bought a 3/16" diameter pin spanner wrench and it all works great. Marking the holes with a center punch helps and so does a starter hole with a smaller bit. Any tips for blackening the stainless? The base of the brake was easy enough to mark but exact measurements and centering the holes was difficult.

 

[hondo1312]

If the brake is mounted to the the can, then the can/brake assembly screwed onto the rifle, will the brake still need to be timed per TBAC's recommendations? If so, how would one accomplish that?

Just curious, not trying be a smartass

 

[Zak Smith]

No, the orientation of the brake does not matter once it's in the can

 

[chainring]

I just wish my 30BA would at least go pending. Never had one take this bloody long - I guess the run on guns/mags/ammo included cans. Really looking forward to it.

 

[jaredinco]

Update: I've been using the modified brake on a few different hosts and it's working great. Once you run a few shots through it and tighten it up it holds solid. Thanks Zak and TBAC.

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