Value precision rifle setup
- Thread starter Rate_of_Twist
- Start date
So, I'm going with Patriot Valley Arms.
I dont think there is much around my area for PRS sectioned events (central mass) so I'm not sure I have to purchase the John Hancock. I could instead purchase the Nucleus Barrels action instead and add the BarLoc and then decide on whatever for a chassis and trigger.
Perhaps if there's a delivery date difference between the two, that could also make a difference.
Suggestions?
I dont think there is much around my area for PRS sectioned events (central mass) so I'm not sure I have to purchase the John Hancock. I could instead purchase the Nucleus Barrels action instead and add the BarLoc and then decide on whatever for a chassis and trigger.
Perhaps if there's a delivery date difference between the two, that could also make a difference.
Suggestions?
In my opinion most people do not need a BarLoc. What is your specific need for the BarLoc? As far as barreled action vs the Hancock. No difference in my mind unless you would have to sell the rifle at that point I think the Hancock would Have better resale value. As far as delivery date only PVA could answer that one.
WTF?
Anything that allows me to change a barrel with a simple allen key at home is full of fucking win.
Well, I don't have a specific "need" for any of this, it's just a hobby and sport to me. I think the idea behind the BarLoc is cool and at $50 it's less than an action wrench, so why not? If it's that much easier to order a barrel in another caliber ( 6mm dasher) then hell why not!
I can’t rember off hand the difference at the muzzle. I think off memory only Ctr at 20in muzzle is about 19mm and 23.75in varmint around 22mm. The varmint is definitely heavier. The Ctr is slightly more “handy”
Ah, good to know. Looks like they've discontinued the .308 varmint model, but I have been considering a 6.5 CTR for the wife
Ctr is more feature rich if your leaving it stock or carrying long distances. In my opinion it’s just enough barrel for 10 shot strings. While it heats quicker than the varmint profile it cools a bit quicker too.
A dedicated range gun the varmint, if your upgrading the stock etc is a better option.
Was not trying to ruffle any BarLoc feathers guys. Guess I need to re think this whole switch barrel system.
If it was $500, I would think it was a waste... for $150, or the given deal at the moment that only add $50 to the cost of the barreled action... seems awesome to me
Deposit placed for a J. Hancock.
Now for the optic
I'm not sure that it matters that the rifle is setup for Production PRS, but I migjt as well just go with it.
Optics under $2k msrp to stay legal, where do I start looking?
Now for the optic
I'm not sure that it matters that the rifle is setup for Production PRS, but I migjt as well just go with it.Optics under $2k msrp to stay legal, where do I start looking?
Check that price on B&H photo - should be $1,599 with a $200 gift card and other goodies for free. pretty sweet deal if your in the market
Deposit placed for a J. Hancock.
Now for the optic
Optics under $2k msrp to stay legal, where do I start looking?
I thought it was limit of $2K on either scope or rifle but $3500 combined limit. correct?...
https://www.precisionrifleseries.com/bolt-gun-series/
That being said, I'm not sure it matters to me. I really want a S&B PM II
If that is the case, then a Gen 1 Razor is the answer.
Didn’t the Steiner T5Xi have issues w/ chromatic aberration as well as shit turrets?
CS is something to consider should you need it. I’ve dealt w/ both Vortex & STEINER CS; the Vortex issue was my fault & I’ll be the first to tell you that I plan to continue buying Vortex products.
per DRB's link to the PRS Bolt Gun Series rules, I was incorrect...
I don't even know where that thought came into my head, maybe it's another series, I don't know. I just thought it was $3500 combined but it is actually $2Kper and $4K combined. sorry to pass on bad information...
It's been updated to $4K w/ no more than $2K on either a scope or rifle.
I've never shot a Prs match, but these rules make me wonder the validity of the "production" division. As it stands, if you setup to compete under the previous rules and financial cap, you are already out games. Further, it seems that potentially, by the end of the year if you arent shooting a JH, could you be out gamed again?
When it comes down to it, it's no different than USPSA production division, which is being equally gamed by clearly non productiin "production" firearms... I'm not winning any matches no matter what I'm shooting, so doesn't matter if I choose to play the game in production or open
I've never shot a Prs match, but these rules make me wonder the validity of the "production" division. As it stands, if you setup to compete under the previous rules and financial cap, you are already out games. Further, it seems that potentially, by the end of the year if you arent shooting a JH, could you be out gamed again?
When it comes down to it, it's no different than USPSA production division, which is being equally gamed by clearly non productiin "production" firearms... I'm not winning any matches no matter what I'm shooting, so doesn't matter if I choose to play the game in production or open
as a beginner, I'm just here to learn. I really have no concern about gaming or sandbagging, etc., but if the JH is set up to come in under the rule limit then I don't see that it's gaming.
I know accuracy isn't all of it but it seems a lot of cheaper ones also are pretty capable of exceptional accuracy.
1. get MIL over MOA
2. the PVA Hancock is a great value for the $$$ - what I recommend to people that ask
3. I LOVE Tikka for the $$$, but when you add in a chassis it takes away from the value
4. screw the "Production Division"... get the Hancock and put whatever you want on it and just shoot the matches in whatever division you want to. the division you shoot in only matters if you are placing in the top 3. otherwise you're just a # somewhere below with limited choice gear for nothing
5. don't skimp on glass and trigger; you will never regret the $$$ put into either if they're good
2. the PVA Hancock is a great value for the $$$ - what I recommend to people that ask
3. I LOVE Tikka for the $$$, but when you add in a chassis it takes away from the value
4. screw the "Production Division"... get the Hancock and put whatever you want on it and just shoot the matches in whatever division you want to. the division you shoot in only matters if you are placing in the top 3. otherwise you're just a # somewhere below with limited choice gear for nothing
5. don't skimp on glass and trigger; you will never regret the $$$ put into either if they're good
So, my "value" rifle is maybe not so "value" anymore... lol
RIFLE = PVA J.H. (deposit)
Bipod = Atlas BT10 V8 (in the mail)
Rings = ARC M10 QD-L (in the safe)
Optic = S&B PMII 5-25 (in the mail)
Still need
Comp
Mags
Spigot mount
Dies
What else? I'm in the first batch of JH orders, but i still dont expect to see the rifle before summer so I want to have everything in hand for when it gets here.
RIFLE = PVA J.H. (deposit)
Bipod = Atlas BT10 V8 (in the mail)
Rings = ARC M10 QD-L (in the safe)
Optic = S&B PMII 5-25 (in the mail)
Still need
Comp
Mags
Spigot mount
Dies
What else? I'm in the first batch of JH orders, but i still dont expect to see the rifle before summer so I want to have everything in hand for when it gets here.
I would consider shipping the BT10 back and getting a refund or credit toward a PSR. Much better bipod IME.
Do you really need a spigot mount?
Do you really need a spigot mount?
I like the idea of the spigot mount, and I'm in this deep so....
I had a credit so I ended up with the BT10 for $170... I'll keep it either way, and it may just end up on a Tikka T1x
What is the issue with the BT10?
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Anyone have some proven reload data for projectile/ powder with PVA barrels so I can start buying up 6.5 components?
I have a PVA TL3 1-8 twist 26” cut barrel that I have shot very little. It did not like the 147 eld that I tried in it. It did like the 140 eld for whatever reason. I have not had much time to work with it. The 140 eld load was 41 gr H4350 fed 210m primer Hornady case seated bullet 2.820”. If you do not have the time or knowledge to do proper brass prep I would buy Peterson or Lapua brass. If you are shooting heavy for caliber bullets ie 130 gr or heavier I would stick with H4350 or Reloader 16 for powder. Fed 210 match or fed 210 primers are a safe bet for ignition. Unless you are running the small primer pocket brass which I have no experience with those would obviously require a small rifle primer. Also if you choose to run small rifle primer brass make sure your decapping pin is smaller than the flash hole. Hope this helps.
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