I have a 4 bolt Viper barrel vise. I have to remove and install bolt action barrels like prefits for Bighorn and others. My question is how tight do I tighten the barrel vise to the barrel? I know you don't want the barrel to spin because it'll marr the finish but is it possible to crush or make an impression on the barrel or cerakote?
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Viper barrel vise
- Thread starter Outlaw45
- Start date
I use scrap leather to wrap my barrels to keep them from getting marred and spinning. I've also read about guys here using paper towel or TP tunes. I imagine you'd only have to worry about crushing a barrel if using a CF wrapped barrel.
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Call rob and ask. His number is in the video
he says wrap it in A TP tube but never mentions any torque values. I’d imagine it’s tight and then a little tighter. I just bought one but haven’t used it yet
he says wrap it in A TP tube but never mentions any torque values. I’d imagine it’s tight and then a little tighter. I just bought one but haven’t used it yet
TP tube. Snug on the vise bolts. Action to barrel torque’d to 100ft-lbs.
For better indication of slipping, I stuck a long extension style magnet on the muzzle brake flat and watched the magnet for rotation, never slipped.
They’re actually quite simple to use. Slide a TP roll on your barrel, stick it in the vice and clamp down. I generally go by feel as to how tight I want it. Never damaged a barrel and never had a barrel slip in the vice.
Called the number, lady answered, "hello", I assumed his wife. I said I had a question about a vise. She one second he's in the shop let me go get him. He said there's no torque value just get it good and tight. He said he built in the ability to use on different contour barrels and even for installing muzzle devices. For that he suggested taking the springs out so it clamps down farther. In the end he said, "if it breaks I'll give you another one." Real nice guy.
I've changed many a barrels with mine. I crank it down tiiiight (with TP tube) with no issues so far, with my ratchet wrench - no cheater.
You definitely don’t want carbon fiber exposed to pressure in the vise. For CF barrels I tighten the two nuts closest to the shoulder first, snug but not overtight, then the two nuts closest to the muzzle, snug but not overtight. Back and forth keeping torque slightly higher on the nuts closest to the shoulder. Final torque even among the four. This keeps the vise contact away from the CF.
I wish I had ordered the extra .5" on the shank when I got my Carbon Six for this very reason, but so far I've made it work. I have a couple scraps of leather I cut holes in and placed on the bolts above and below the barrel. No slippage so far.
I just sandwiched two pieces of leather strap top and bottom and just use the front bolts on my CF barrel.
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You like that? I use it to hold my rifle for cleaning, mounting scope or whatever I need to do while it’s in the chassis otherwise I clamp it in the barrel vise.
Is fvcking brilliant.
I digress...
Torque on the vice? Enough to hold it. Not much more. I've used leather or hard rubber 1/8" thick pads.
I havent ever measured how much torque i put on the clamp bolts just snugged them all up and no slippage or issues with barrels torgued to 100-110 ft lbs.
If i had to guess somewere between 40-50 ft lbs dry.
If i had to guess somewere between 40-50 ft lbs dry.
You're leather looks a lot better quality than mine. I might need to upgrade. I definitely torque the shank side down a lot more than the other side. Maybe I should try it without using the back bolts at all.
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