Rifle Scopes viper PST elevation question

jimbob_walker

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Apr 2, 2011
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i baught my first high dallor scope and mounted it on my m700 ss. it has a 20moa rail and burris ET medium rings. i zeroed it in at 100yrds today and i am 4th rotation up and only have a little over 2 full rotations left. does this sound right.
 
Re: viper PST elevation question

Well Jimbob, you only had 19 Mils to start with, and you have over 10 left, you used some just to zero, so how much do you think you should have left?

 
Re: viper PST elevation question

im sorry for being stupid to this stuff, but i have 6 rotations total and in on the 4th now. i figured i would have found zero closer to half way. your saying i still have half left so it must be good.
 
Re: viper PST elevation question

Jimbob,


Six rotations, so you have the MOA model not the Milrad model. Ok,
each rotation is 12 MOA. You have a total of 65 MOA or so in your scope. 65/12= 5.4 rotations, not a full 6.

65 MOA is 32.5 MOA up and 32.5 MOA down. With a 20 MOA rail, you Theoretically should have 52.5 MOA up and 12.5 MOA down.

I say theoretically because if you used a bunch of windage zeroing, your total elevation will also be less. How much windage did you use?



 
Re: viper PST elevation question

I also noticed that my 6-24 PST ate up a lot of elevation to zero. Only left me with 9 mils up which is when I promptly switched to a 20 minute base.
 
Re: viper PST elevation question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BobinNC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">JimBob,

If you used 24 MOA of windage to zero, that accounts for your lost elevation. </div></div>

how can do something different to get my windage right to get more elevation? i have exactly 21.5 moa of elevation left.
 
Re: viper PST elevation question

Other than the focus, about the only other thing I'm disappointed with my 6-24 MRAD FFP model is the available elevation. I have it sitting on an AR flattop and after zero, has only 7 mils up left over. That barely gets me to 650 yds, which is my max steel range at my club.

Otherwise, the scope is great so far.
 
Re: viper PST elevation question

Picture a small circle inside a larger circle. The small circle represents the reticle and the larger circle the inside diameter of your scope tube. If you move the small circle left or right you reduce the amount you can move the reticle (smaller circle) up and down.
 
Re: viper PST elevation question

If one really needed the extra elevation, is a 30+minute base practical? In theory, it would just eat up another 10+ minutes of down clicks vs a 20 but there's gotta be disadvantages, right? Sorry it's kind of off topic.
 
Re: viper PST elevation question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: THEBEARRRRRRJEW</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If one really needed the extra elevation, is a 30+minute base practical? In theory, it would just eat up another 10+ minutes of down clicks vs a 20 but there's gotta be disadvantages, right? Sorry it's kind of off topic. </div></div>

I'm picking up a 40MOA NF base for my Remington so that I have more elevation, regarding my thread here: http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=232610&Number=2638474
 
Re: viper PST elevation question

ok i did some research and my base needs bedded. also, i assumed my base was 20moa but i dont think it is. it is a blackhawk base and i cant find any specs on it. compaired to a real 20moa base visually mine looks to be a flat base. with the medium rings i still think i should have more elevation. i have a good amount of spacing between my scope bell and barrel.
 
Re: viper PST elevation question

I have the 6-24x50 PST on a 20 moa base and have 15.4 mils up (and I used all of them + a bit of holdover shooting to 1225m last week). I only needed .4 mils for windage when I zeroed - the second time.

You may want to double check to be sure all of your mounting hardware is trued up correctly (torqued evenly, rings bolted to the base correctly, etc). At first I had a problem with how my rings were mounted that caused me to use almost all of my windage to get zeroed...
 
Re: viper PST elevation question

ok, correct me if im wrong. the rear of my base sits up roughly a couple thousands when the front 2 screws are tight. i bedded the rear and it is setting right now. if the rear of the base was low it would pull the rear of the scope down raising the front. this would take from my elevation. so now after it is flat, the rifle should shoot high at where i have it zeroed now. this giving me more elevation. am i on the right track?
 
Re: viper PST elevation question

I wouldn't get hung up over base bedding. It's not going to change your elevation that much.

I have a bunch of Savages, and on them at least, have never bedded a single scope base. Yes, some stuck up a bit in the back if you tighten the front first. However, all of these guns are 10 round 1/2 - 3/4 MOA at 200 yards.

You might want to think about using Burris Signature rings with inserts to help with your zero problem.

FWIW, I installed my 6-24x50 FFP MIL scope earlier this week. Using a Weaver 20 MOA tactical rail, my zero is 5 mils up from the bottom. Windage barely had to be adjusted.
 
Re: viper PST elevation question

jimbob, just to be a bit more clear...

If your rail or the action screw holes are canted, then you might want to consider Burris Signature rings <span style="font-weight: bold">in addition</span> to a 20 MOA rail.

You could us the ring inserts to adjust the scope side to side to get mechanical zero close to actual zero, then have the 20 MOA rail to handle getting your windage close to the bottom. Hopefully, this makes sense.
 
Re: viper PST elevation question

im going to try and see what comes of it when i do my best to get everything put on 100% correct. i just threw everything together to begin with so i could have been that.

another question i have is, the burris rings have about an 1/8 in gap where the halves come together at the screws. i am use to rings coming together more. they also have 4 ribs on the inside. the tube are held by the ribs instead of the flat surface. my new scope already has horrible ring marks.
 
Re: viper PST elevation question

Ring marks. Another reason I love Burris Signatures with inserts.

I recommend investing in a in-lb torque wrench, too. A lot of ring marks come from the setup being overtightened.
 
Re: viper PST elevation question

You might nit have a 20 moa base. Your scope should look like it's point down towards your crown. Also are u sure u don't have the 4 turns in elevation to adjust for distance. How many turns do u have towards the side that follows the "up" arrow.

I don't have the pst but I have the viper and have 3/4 turns left with 20 moa base. I can't imagine it beig setup right with a 20 moa base and u haven't less than 20 moa base. Something is nit right that means, no matter the windage u used, u should have enough to atleast zero and u wouldn't have without the 20 moa base
 
Re: viper PST elevation question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: timelinex</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You might nit have a 20 moa base. Your scope should look like it's point down towards your crown. Also are u sure u don't have the 4 turns in elevation to adjust for distance. How many turns do u have towards the side that follows the "up" arrow.

I don't have the pst but I have the viper and have 3/4 turns left with 20 moa base. I can't imagine it beig setup right with a 20 moa base and u haven't less than 20 moa base. Something is nit right that means, no matter the windage u used, u should have enough to atleast zero and u wouldn't have without the 20 moa base </div></div>

im sure i only have 21.5 moa up left. i counted to make exactly sure. im starting to think it is not a 20 moa base. it runs flat across. the rear is a little higher than the front but i think thats because the action sits lower in the back. im glad you guys know what to do. it sucks being stupid.
 
Re: viper PST elevation question

You can always do hold over if you have a mildot reticle, but thats preferable. Anyways get yourself a 20 MOA base and forget about it. An EGW 20 MOA will cost you less than 50 bucks and will work just fine for most general purposes.

Don't be discouraged. When I got my first 20MOA base, first I put it on backwards. Then I put it on right and was ready to reverse it again because I barely had anymore elevation left. Then realized it was right, and I actually have most my elevation left because I was planning on turning it the wrong way. If you have noone to nudge you in the right direction, alot of things don't come with instructions so you just have to learn through trial and error. We are lucky to have this forum atleast, where they can answer most our questions and save us alot of time and $$!