Wanting to buy/build a "90%" Hunting/Ranch Rifle

[Jeremy45]

I'm wanting to put together a general purpose rifle that will solve 90% of problems that can be solved with a rifle.

I have a general idea of what I want but I'm curious to see what you guys would build. This is a rifle that I'll take when I need a rifle. May be in a hint nf blind one day, bouncing around in a buggy the n xt day doing pig work and then finishing off the day picking some coyotes off over a wheat field. I may take it to some local matches for practice but it is not a competition rifle at all it's a general purpose/general use rifle for killing stuff.

With that said what would you choose for this? Specifically....

Overall weight
Overall length
Bolt or semi
Glass magnification
Dbm or floor plate
Single or 2 stage trigger

Not looking for brand X over brand Y and not necessarily looking for something modular. I want it assembled and ready to go when I need a rifle. Switch barrels always seem to not have a barrel ready when I need it ;-)

It will be either 6creed or straight .284 cause that's what I want.

Thanks,
Jeremy

 

[lte82]

Heavy precision rifles suck for hunting or truck guns. Hunting rifles suck at precision shooting. Do-all rifles are literally the worst of both worlds, because they do everything poorly. Buy a beater truck gun and a nice precision rifle!

 

[sleeplz]

Go terminus action and choose the barrel to your liking. Choose the stock and trigger you like best. Grab a 5-25 ZCO and aics dbm. Lastly, go 6MM GT.

 

[Jeremy45]

Heavy precision rifles suck for hunting or truck guns. Hunting rifles suck at precision shooting. Do-all rifles are literally the worst of both worlds, because they do everything poorly. Buy a beater truck gun and a nice precision rifle!

Changed up the original post to take competition out of the picture. I completely understand your response but I think the uses should actually be the other way around. I'll be using this rifle around the ranch every other weekend and anytime our hunting group goes anywhere to take rifles for varmints. I may...MAY shoot 4 actual matches of any sort a year.

 

[HMRamateur]

Overall length 38" max
Max magnification 12x, maybe 10x
Bolt
DBM
Trigger is preference, but two stage
Max weight 8-9 lbs

 

[Forward543]

For an all around gun, i think a 6.5 creedmoor in a gas gun is pretty badass. Not as hot and bothered as a bolt, but you can keep the weight down, put a 22" carbon barrel on it, and blast all of your chosen targets at will. Accuracy will not be bolt gun, but a follow up shot on demand for actual killing things is pretty sweet. Scope anything is a pick your poison though the NX8 2-20 is a pretty sweet all around. I like 2 stage giessele for semi auto, and ar platform for ease of mag acquisition and accuracy. Rifle should be at or under 10 lbs.

 

[RTH1800]

If you scratch comps I like this:
Lone Peak Arms Ti action.
TT Diamond
Proof 22” CF barrel
DBM
Light CF stock
Murphy Precision Ti rings
5-20 Schmidt Ultra Short
Direct thread can of your choice.

 

[RTH1800]

AG Composites makes the stock.

 

[wade2big]

Buy a Tikka ctr or other nice factory rifle that has a medium(ish) weight barrel. Purchase a heavier stock or chassis to have for the four times a year matches to add weight to help mitigate recoil and add a brake as well. The rest of the year leave it completely factory and ditch the obnoxious brake. This will keep weight and noise way down when you dont want it.

 

[Jeremy45]

AG Composites makes the stock.

I've been looking at their stocks and really like the adjustable hunter. That setup is very similar to what I had in mind. Have an AMG right now, would love to move to an Ultra Short though.

 

[Northernjets]

I kind of have a similar thing going for myself right now, except competitions aren't in the picture at all. This going to be a coyote and gopher 223 rifle, possibly run as a 6.5cm for hunting season if I stick around this neck of the woods. Will be minimal stalking, but the weight should be manageable if I do have to walk for a bit. Folder with a 20" barrel should fold up to around 32" total length iirc. Anything listed as (est) hasn't been weighed in person and are just guesstimate numbers or numbers I pulled off manufacturer websites. Steel barrel estimate was based off researching online. I'm going for something like a straight taper down to 0.80 at the muzzle.

 

[DJL2]

Wow...color coded and everything! I've got a similar, much less sexy chart.

For me, it's: <10 lbs all in, ideally a DBM, w/ a stock that has traditional ergos (i.e. without a bunch of shit to hang up on clothing, branches, pack straps, get in the way while I'm carrying and slow me down trying to shoulder for a snap shot). I'd take a bolt gun simply because every semi-auto I've seen makes you pay roughly a 2 lb penalty for the same performance and there aren't too many situations that require you to burn it down. No real preference on trigger. I'd like glass that goes to 20+ (wouldn't we all?), but it needs to start at 4x or less. I'd take glass that tops out at 12-15 if it's outstanding at max magnification and the right combination of light and robust.

I realized pretty quickly that for less than $3k, I cannot come even close to beating the Seekins PH2 as a value proposition. That would be my first choice for the type of rifle you want, honestly. I'd take .284 over 6 CM too, because there's a big difference between throwing 115 versus 180 (or 105 versus 162) at things not made of paper.

If cost is no option... Lots of actions out there right around 2-2.25 lbs. Lots of stocks out there right around 2 lbs. If you want adjustable, now you're talking like 2.75 lbs (there's something to be said for just getting a stock that fits versus one you can fiddle with). A good optic w/ rings will be in the 1.5-2 lb range (and that will exclude all of your BIG FFP super zoom comp scopes that weigh 2.5 lbs by themselves, of course). That takes us to...around 6 lbs, and we don't have a barrel, mags, bottom metal, etc. So, flute everything that can be fluted, buy Ti if you can and get either a carbon or fluted barrel depending on your preference. You might not beat the PH2 on weight, but you'll likely be in the ball park and you'll have a custom gun to your specs.

FWIW, my KRG SOTIC is a ~5.75 lb barrelled action in a 3.7 lb W-3 chassis - I think I weighed it out at 14 lbs all up. Much more than I want to carry, personally. Then again, carry for me is usually that - rifle in hands with a sling to help. If your rifle spends a lot of time riding your sling or pack hands free, the picture might be different.

 

[jda2631]

If you can throw competitions out for this rifle, may want to look at the updated desert tech MDR, the MDRX. With a 20" 6.5 creed barrel (you may be able to get 6 creed, I am not sure) and a razor 1-6 or the new 1-10, nx8 1-8 or 2-20, mk5 3-18, etc would be a damn nice truck gun. Being that it would be around 30" overall, will be very easy to get in and out of your truck or side by side. Plenty of rifle for out to 500+ yards. Being semi you will have a better chance at getting multiple hogs.

 

[nexusfire]

Throw out comps, get a Remington 5R and chop the barrel down to 18-20 inches

 

[stello1001]

6 creed
20 inch barrel of your flavor
tikka action/terminus/howa/impact/win70
PRS1 folding stock
or whatever foldable stock/chassis you prefer
LRTS 3-12
ATACR 4-16X42

I would also consider a 22 creed with an 18.5 inch barrel for being even more handy and try to stay @ 11.5 pounds total.

 

[Jeremy45]

Wow...color coded and everything! I've got a similar, much less sexy chart.

For me, it's: <10 lbs all in, ideally a DBM, w/ a stock that has traditional ergos (i.e. without a bunch of shit to hang up on clothing, branches, pack straps, get in the way while I'm carrying and slow me down trying to shoulder for a snap shot). I'd take a bolt gun simply because every semi-auto I've seen makes you pay roughly a 2 lb penalty for the same performance and there aren't too many situations that require you to burn it down. No real preference on trigger. I'd like glass that goes to 20+ (wouldn't we all?), but it needs to start at 4x or less. I'd take glass that tops out at 12-15 if it's outstanding at max magnification and the right combination of light and robust.

I realized pretty quickly that for less than $3k, I cannot come even close to beating the Seekins PH2 as a value proposition. That would be my first choice for the type of rifle you want, honestly. I'd take .284 over 6 CM too, because there's a big difference between throwing 115 versus 180 (or 105 versus 162) at things not made of paper.

If cost is no option... Lots of actions out there right around 2-2.25 lbs. Lots of stocks out there right around 2 lbs. If you want adjustable, now you're talking like 2.75 lbs (there's something to be said for just getting a stock that fits versus one you can fiddle with). A good optic w/ rings will be in the 1.5-2 lb range (and that will exclude all of your BIG FFP super zoom comp scopes that weigh 2.5 lbs by themselves, of course). That takes us to...around 6 lbs, and we don't have a barrel, mags, bottom metal, etc. So, flute everything that can be fluted, buy Ti if you can and get either a carbon or fluted barrel depending on your preference. You might not beat the PH2 on weight, but you'll likely be in the ball park and you'll have a custom gun to your specs.

FWIW, my KRG SOTIC is a ~5.75 lb barrelled action in a 3.7 lb W-3 chassis - I think I weighed it out at 14 lbs all up. Much more than I want to carry, personally. Then again, carry for me is usually that - rifle in hands with a sling to help. If your rifle spends a lot of time riding your sling or pack hands free, the picture might be different.

THE PH2 does look very tempting. I agree with everything else you said and will probably go the custom route mainly because I have a passion of CRF actions and I am wanting a barrel shorter than what is on the Seekins.

At what range to you think the 284 becomes a more viable option that the 6 creed form animals. The 105 has some very good options but I know overall the .284 has a lot more energy. Just curious if there is a yardage that would make you change or if you would go .284 no matter what?

 

[Jeremy45]

6 creed
20 inch barrel of your flavor
tikka action/terminus/howa/impact/win70
PRS1 folding stock
or whatever foldable stock/chassis you prefer
LRTS 3-12
ATACR 4-16X42

I would also consider a 22 creed with an 18.5 inch barrel for being even more handy and try to stay @ 11.5 pounds total.

My initial thought was 12lb all in so that is right in line. Been looking at a 20" 6 creed. Not as handy as 18.5" but looks like I can still get 3K out of the 105's. They say 6 creed is a barrel burner, I will have to look up how long a 22 creed goes.

 

[stello1001]

My initial thought was 12lb all in so that is right in line. Been looking at a 20" 6 creed. Not as handy as 18.5" but looks like I can still get 3K out of the 105's. They say 6 creed is a barrel burner, I will have to look up how long a 22 creed goes.

The only reason why I suggested even shorter on the 22 creed vs 6 was because I feel like it already has crazy high MV with more typical barrel lengths such as 22 inches. Crazy high velocities at least for 22 cal bullets, so I feel one can afford to go a bit shorter.

And yup, I said 11.5 because in my mind I was thinking sub 12 pounds.

 

[hereinaz]

How far do you want to kill things, and what?

A 6 creed shooting 105s at 2900 at my location has 1800 fps (which is Berger's minimum velocity) at 770 yards... the old "knock down power" applies to old bullets. Put a Berger behind the shoulder and the deer is going to die.

I would shoot deer and smaller with it out to 800. I am planning a superlight short barrel 6 creed for a backcountry deer gun and have poured over the creed threads and short barrel threads. I will most likely suppress it.

Right now, my hunting rifle is a 26" 7mm SS mag for elk or anything else. Its good as far as I could expect. I have a shorty 308 to hunt suppressed for a bison hunt out of a stand, 200 yards max.

 

[FjallJager]

Buy a fat barreled Howa 1500 in 308 or 6.5 Creedmoor, or if you want a really handy one 6.5 Grendel and slap it in a fiberglass stock.

When you have worn out the barrel order another barreled action and swap it out.

My buddy is a gunsmith in Australia, this is the advice he gives professional kangaroo shooters who go through 2000 rounds of 204 Ruger in a month.

 

[Jeremy45]

How far do you want to kill things, and what?

A 6 creed shooting 105s at 2900 at my location has 1800 fps (which is Berger's minimum velocity) at 770 yards... the old "knock down power" applies to old bullets. Put a Berger behind the shoulder and the deer is going to die.

I would shoot deer and smaller with it out to 800. I am planning a superlight short barrel 6 creed for a backcountry deer gun and have poured over the creed threads and short barrel threads. I will most likely suppress it.

Right now, my hunting rifle is a 26" 7mm SS mag for elk or anything else. Its good as far as I could expect. I have a shorty 308 to hunt suppressed for a bison hunt out of a stand, 200 yards max.

Longest shot I've had was 700yds with 95% inside 300.

Primarily be shooting deer & pigs. We have some big pigs but they aren't my main concern at all.

 

[CStroud]

I’m building an 18” 25sst to fill this niche for me. Should be under 10 lbs with a bartlein 3b , able to get the 131’s over 3,000 or 110’s 3,200 -ish FPS, and still be able to get it out the window quickly lol.

 

[BadAccountant]

I like the Ruger scout rifle. .308, fairly short barrel, irons, and XS even makes a full rail with an integrated rear sight that allows you to use normal scopes instead of exclusively long eye relief glass.

CRF action, stainless, classic stock with no frills, and it takes AI mags. Hard to beat for a "do all" gun around the ranch.

 

[DJL2]

THE PH2 does look very tempting. I agree with everything else you said and will probably go the custom route mainly because I have a passion of CRF actions and I am wanting a barrel shorter than what is on the Seekins.

At what range to you think the 284 becomes a more viable option that the 6 creed form animals. The 105 has some very good options but I know overall the .284 has a lot more energy. Just curious if there is a yardage that would make you change or if you would go .284 no matter what?

Standard caveat: It's a personal choice based on your hunting style and what/where you hunt. That said, I'd break it down by body weight and toughness more so than range. If you take game more than 100 kg or so off the table, the 6mm (and the 6.5mm) have a LOT of appeal. It's not just that .284 has more energy, but mass as well - a 162 grain 7mm bullet can shed 40% of its weight and still have as much left over as an intact 6mm bullet. A 7mm can put in work that a 6mm cannot on larger/tougher game. To some folks that matters, to others not so much.

Range is more a bullet selection thing once you've got the caliber right for the game, I think. Different schools of thought on that - I personally have no use for a tough/bonded bullet if the intended use is at a range/velocity where that's counterproductive to producing wide wounding (looking at you, Nosler). I've seen folks put in very good work on lighter big game with 100-105 grain 6mm stuff quite a ways out.

 

[mcfred]

Your location says Odessa, TX so "Big Game" is not really that big. Deer and Hogs. You didn't set a budget, so if I were starting from nothing, I'd probably get a 6mm or 6.5 Grendel in either a CZ 527 (it's CRF ?) or one of the wood-stocked Howa Minis with one of the recently available aftermarket hinged floor plates (if you don't like the DBMs hanging down). They're short, light, cheap, durable and will kill all sorts of things. Barrels will last a long while and components will be pretty inexpensive too if you want to bang some steel now and again. Take the savings and get components for a few thousand rounds and go shoot.

If you've got $4000 to spend on a full-custom rifle then you certainly have more options. IMO, there's nothing in the western hemisphere you'd be undergunned with if using a .284Win.

 

[Kwfranklin88]

I bought a Ruger American ranch in 7.62x39 for this excact reason. I love it! Ammo is dirt cheap. Shoots wolf steel case under moa. It’s short and very lightweight. I ordered a compact stock that is 1” shorter length of pull. Just to make it more compact and lightweight. It has extremely low recoil. I put a 2-7x32 on it to keep it lightweight. It’s all the scope that gun needs. I have fallen in love with that gun. I can’t believe they are only $500. I absolutely love it.

 

[diggler1833]

I use two ranch rigs out here: either a 16" or 18" AR in 5.56mm...both run LPVOs. I just grab whichever is out of the safe at the time. I also use a VTAC padded sling as it works great in my Ranger or on my 4-wheeler.

I know it's not really what you're looking for, but it fits the requirements you are looking to fill. Bullet selection is a bit more important, and I use the Mk 318 Mod 0 or 64gr (62 now) Speer Gold Dot. My 16" DDM4V7 is a solid 1.5 MOA gun with the Mk 318, and my FN DMR is a bit better with the Gold Dots....benchrest accuracy is not needed when you're snap shooting off of a vehicle.

I've got other dedicated hunting rigs.

 

[JW.308]

Bergara HMR B14. 6.5 CM.
REM 700 foot print so accessories are plentiful. Pick up a light stock to hunt with and a chassis for comp...or leave as is.

 

[6mmRemM600]

I would move towards the .284 (7mm) caliber. I have a 6mm and the maximum weight bullets are 115 to 120 gr, less if shooting copper. I went to a 7mm specifically for pig hunting in the People's Republik of Kalifornia.

In the PRK my standard hunting rounds are 139 or 140 gr. copper. With handloads I can go higher still, and for out of state I can load heavier lead bullets. That said one of the 6.5mm rounds may be suitable for your needs (they certainly are popular). They all shoot bullets nearly as heavy as a 7mm, they also shoot fast and flat with minimal recoil.

I would lean towards a 22" barrel but a 20" would work well too, just a bit less velocity.

I prefer a detachable box magazine for flexibility, keep one loaded for varmints and another for pigs. There is always a good feeling after taking out a ground squirrel at 200 yards.

Regardless of bolt action or semi-auto two stage triggers are the way to go. I remember the old military triggers and Remington single stage triggers from the 60's. I have bolt guns, with an "Accutrigger" (Savage) and a "Lightning Bolt Action" (Mossberg), both are better than the Remington triggers or military triggers.

Your choice between, semi-auto or bolt and scope.

 

[Crews]

What you’re describing is exactly what I do with my AIAT. I have a 16.5” barrel on it and a 4-16x42 ATACR. I don’t think I need to speak to reliability. With the short barrel it’s easy enough to handle. I think the extra weight is useful for the field expedient opportunities I am presented with. Guess I’m the outlier here but unless you’re walking up a mountain, I’ve never understood why so many folks think a hunting rifle has to be light.

 

[mcfred]

^ must be from Kansas.

 

[DJL2]

East KS is hillier than I expected by the Big Muddy. Still not the Rockies or Appalachians though. ;-)

 

[hereinaz]

Longest shot I've had was 700yds with 95% inside 300.

Primarily be shooting deer & pigs. We have some big pigs but they aren't my main concern at all.

A 6mm will kill deer just fine. The biggest pigs might be an issue if you shoot the "armor" or at the furthest distances. But I wouldn't worry about it much.

I do like the idea of a .25 or 6.5 mm if you want bigger bullets. A 20" 6.5 cm is killing out to 700, just more drop and drift than a .25 or 6mm. I wouldn't go all the way to 7mm cause you lose speed that the bigger bullet doesn't make up. The 130 gr 6.5 is as big as I would go in a short action hunting rifle inside 700.

 

[Crews]

^ must be from Kansas.

Texas. I do a lot of riding around, and suspect OP might as well. But I do frequently walk a half mile or more to get into a stand quietly during deer season. Toting a heavy rifle just doesn’t seem like that big a deal. I’d rather have that extra stability when the barrel gets poked out the blind window.

 

[Simia Dei]

The top rifle is my 90% do all rifle. If you're interested in 7mm, take a look at 7mm SAW, that's what this rifle is chambered in. I use the Sierra 160TMK at 2828fps in this rifle using RL16. Weighs 11.9lb. Have had the 162ELDs to 2865fps in my other 7mm SAW rifle

 

[Jeremy45]

What you’re describing is exactly what I do with my AIAT. I have a 16.5” barrel on it and a 4-16x42 ATACR. I don’t think I need to speak to reliability. With the short barrel it’s easy enough to handle. I think the extra weight is useful for the field expedient opportunities I am presented with. Guess I’m the outlier here but unless you’re walking up a mountain, I’ve never understood why so many folks think a hunting rifle has to be light.

I used a 16.5" AT all last year. It's is very handy and worked just fine. What I have decided is I like to walk with the rifle in hand and I don't find the AT fits me well for that. It wasn't the weight but the square forend that bothers me. I should probably just grab a biathelon sling and go on but I want something new ;-)

 

[Crews]

I used a 16.5" AT all last year. It's is very handy and worked just fine. What I have decided is I like to walk with the rifle in hand and I don't find the AT fits me well for that. It wasn't the weight but the square forend that bothers me. I should probably just grab a biathelon sling and go on but I want something new ;-)

fair enough, I love the square forend for sitting on the blind window, and carry patrol style with a Rifles Only bungee sling very comfortably. Goes to show it’s a lil different for all of us.

 

[DJL2]

I used a 16.5" AT all last year. It's is very handy and worked just fine. What I have decided is I like to walk with the rifle in hand and I don't find the AT fits me well for that. It wasn't the weight but the square forend that bothers me. I should probably just grab a biathelon sling and go on but I want something new ;-)

That‘s precisely my problem with my KRG SOTIC. The rifle is 9.5 lbs empty, but the chassis with its enclosed pistol grip and square forend is NOT my cup of tea for anything but working static. The weight is just on top of that. I’ve carried a SAW and I‘ve carried an M4 - if I don‘t need to lay down the scunion from the SBF, I know which one I’d rather carry...especially day in, day out, with ruck.

 

[mcfred]

Texas. I do a lot of riding around, and suspect OP might as well. But I do frequently walk a half mile or more to get into a stand quietly during deer season. Toting a heavy rifle just doesn’t seem like that big a deal. I’d rather have that extra stability when the barrel gets poked out the blind window.

I can see how after AI lightened your wallet, humping a 20lb gun 900 yards isn't bad at all.

 

[Jeremy45]

I can see how after AI lightened your wallet, humping a 20lb gun 900 yards isn't bad at all.

HAHA, that's funny, I don't care who you are!

 

[hausser]

AR15 Platform - A4 Style
6.5 Grendel.
123g Hornady SST.
Lilja, Bartlein, or Krieger Barrel
.920 Muzzle Barrel with Bolt Included
22" or 24" 1-8 twist
Geissele SSA-E Trigger
Larue LT-111 Scope Mount - 30mm
Vortex Viper PST 5-25x50 Scope
Ammo is fairly cheap with excellent ballistics well past 800 yards
Scope mount and scope combination great for removal/attachment under 'truck gun' scenario if desired.
AR Platform robust under 'bouncing' truck scenario
The barrel and trigger combination will provide good accuracy on a lesser cost upper and lower receiver.
Mine shoots half-MOA all day long

 

[Scwalker83]

33 inches with suppressor, 140 bergers from berger ammo at 2620 from 18 inch barrel. 11.5lbs. Handy.

 

[264win]

For me it’s a Tikka action, manners mcst stock and an 18” med light Benchmark barrel threaded for my can. If it were stolen, I would build the exact same thing again.

 

[Mike_in_FL]

I wouldn't do a .284 in anything but a long action if you want to do matches so that you can use the heavier, longer bullets.

 

[deersniper]

Q or Sig fix with a CF 22 Creedmoor barrel. 2.5-20 NF optic.

 

[deersniper]

Longest shot I've had was 700yds with 95% inside 300.

Primarily be shooting deer & pigs. We have some big pigs but they aren't my main concern at all.

16” AR would be my choice for that

Top it with a 2.5-10 or 2.5-20 Nightforce.

If 223 doesn’t work then 22 or 65CM

I’m putting together a 20” proof CF 6.5 CM into a Seekins SP10 with a 2.5-20. would have went 18” if they made one. Should work well
223 works great for most of what you want to do.

Pigs and deer eradication = semi auto for me

I used a 16.5" AT all last year. It's is very handy and worked just fine. What I have decided is I like to walk with the rifle in hand and I don't find the AT fits me well for that. It wasn't the weight but the square forend that bothers me. I should probably just grab a biathelon sling and go on but I want something new ;-)

you can get a AX it has a round foreend lol. I use that or a DTA when ground hogging

 

[RTH1800]

Sounds like you and I have the exact same idea along these lines. I do find the 18” barrel a bit better killer.

 

[D_TROS]

Man an AR with any of the plethora of 3-18's out there to make your little heart happy would be tough to beat for any sort of eradication. Fact there.


As black rifles are scary and kill babies Id second choice go for a 22" 6.5x47/308 light palma barrel in a folding MDT LSS-XL topped with a 5" Ultra 5 Thunderbeast AND any of the plethora of 3-18's out there to make your little heart happy


GL
DT

 

[deersniper]

I have a 18” 556 Seekins too

Killed a lot of varmints etc with the 16” and 2.5-10 tho

1-8s are nice too for snap shots

 

[Hondo64d]

I'm wanting to put together a general purpose rifle that will solve 90% of problems that can be solved with a rifle.

I have a general idea of what I want but I'm curious to see what you guys would build. This is a rifle that I'll take when I need a rifle. May be in a hint nf blind one day, bouncing around in a buggy the n xt day doing pig work and then finishing off the day picking some coyotes off over a wheat field. I may take it to some local matches for practice but it is not a competition rifle at all it's a general purpose/general use rifle for killing stuff.

With that said what would you choose for this? Specifically....

Overall weight
Overall length
Bolt or semi
Glass magnification
Dbm or floor plate
Single or 2 stage trigger

Not looking for brand X over brand Y and not necessarily looking for something modular. I want it assembled and ready to go when I need a rifle. Switch barrels always seem to not have a barrel ready when I need it ;-)

It will be either 6creed or straight .284 cause that's what I want.

Thanks,
Jeremy

Here is my solution to the do it all rig.

Bighorn Origin
8” twist Bartlein #3 5R chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor, finished at 24”
McMillan Carbon Ambush Adjustable Game Scout
APA Bottom Metal
Triggertech Diamond
Bushnell 3-12 LRTSi
’smithed by Jon Beanland

I‘m also in West Texas, about 15 miles north of Sweetwater, and this is the rig I grab most often.

John