Water filtering

[supercorndogs]

So we have pretty hard water. The city supply comes from wells. The report puts TDS at 1200 a ppm meter shows about 700ppm. Considering the geology and the color staining. I would suspect that a lot of the ppm is going to be iron and calcium/lime.

I have been looking at three stage filters but I wonder how much they will be able to drop the ppm. It makes me wonder if a full house RO system would be better. Who is filtering well water here? What's your filter set up? How was your water before and how much improvement have you seen?

 

[dhuf]

I don't know anything about the number levels you're talking about but built a shop and drilled 3 wells back in 2012.
The water was so hard it stained everything it touched even after running it through a huge softener.
It would rot out the "guts" of the softener about every 180 days.

I paid upfront for pipeline rural water but 13 years later it's still not available there.

I ended up selling the business off but if I'd stayed with it I'd either have gone full RO or just started buying the same rural pipeline water at the depot and had one of my trucks haul a load in on the way home as needed.

 

[Sean the Nailer]

So we have pretty hard water. The city supply comes from wells. The report puts TDS at 1200 a ppm meter shows about 700ppm. Considering the geology and the color staining. I would suspect that a lot of the ppm is going to be iron and calcium/lime.

I have been looking at three stage filters but I wonder how much they will be able to drop the ppm. It makes me wonder if a full house RO system would be better. Who is filtering well water here? What's your filter set up? How was your water before and how much improvement have you seen?

We've got a 5 stage unit here, that I've mounted to the wall but have yet to 'plumb it in' as we've simply had far too many other crises and chaos to deal with IRL.

Interesting thread, and I'm curious to see the outcome as well. Originally this was for creating a reef aquarium, but that's been parked and I'm leaning towards getting away from the 'brita-type-thing' pitcher and simply getting this unit going.

Sing out!

 

[P-Squared]

If you can, run it through a filter to get the sediment out, then through a water softener, and after that run it through a RO system. If you do 'Whole House' make sure you put it through an 'ionization stage' to bring the PH back up or it will slowly leach the copper out of your pipes or fittings. The sediment filter gets out the rocks and stuff, the water softener gets the magnesium and calcium out and replaces it with sodium, then the RO takes care of the sodium.

we had an Indian Casino try to do a whole property RO only to find out a year later that they ended up with pin-hole leaks everywhere because of the leaching.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[John?]

I use a 3 stage carbon filter. We haven’t had it tested lately but the water tastes good after filtering. Pre-filter we couldn’t stand the smell or taste.

RO is the way to go if you have the money. Bear in mind that RO doubles load on the well. That excess consumption is why we didn’t install RO.

 

[jamesd]

20 micron for the sticks and stones .5 micron for everything else then trough the softener then through the UV light. Fresh from a shore well on lake Ontario to my glass!

 

[BytorJr]

I’m toying with some type of filter due to our shitty water that’s hard, but molds/mildews innards of dishwasher, clothes washer, traps, etc. Then there is so much chlorine in the winter I about itch to death. I guess the chlorine is an attempt to keep mildew out…it doesn’t work.

Not to mention, I think our source is the TN River…I could be wrong.

 

[232593]

I have the older Berkey water filtration system & filter sets. So far it’s worked well.

 

[Aftermath]

Well water here. I have a solar powered pump without batteries so it only pulls water while the sun is shining. I have the pump controller set to only 10% of capacity to avoid depleting the near well bore pore pressure and to avoid pulling sediment.

Our water, as most in this area, has a good amount of suphur in it. H2S in suspension. The well fills a 1000 gallon tank, through a spin down sediment filter, where all of that nasty gas is released to the atmosphere. It's amazing what sitting at surface pressure (as opposed to the down hole pressure) does to release gasses. The water is classified as moderately hard but we have no problem making suds and it tastes just fine with no further treatment...however...

I have another solar powered pump, with batteries so we have water on demand 24/7, to pump water from the tank to the house. The supply line is split to supply water to the outdoors faucets without further treatment. The other side supplies the house and all of that water passes through a 5 stage filter. Sediment>Phosphate>Granular Activated Carbon>Kinetic Degradation Fluxion>Activated Carbon Block. I also use an RO with UV set to feed the water/ice on the fridge, plus the filter in the fridge. We really only drink that water. We use the water at the kitchen sink to cook with and I have drank many gallons from the faucets without any issue. I just didn't think using RO and UV for every drop was worth the squeeze. I mean, why RO your shower water? The toilet, the washing machine, etc

I don't recall what the numbers were from the analysis, it was basically potable right from the tank, but I went ahead and added extra to the treating set. Our water is very clean...especially that water in the fridge. For about a month after filter change, all of the water is really soft feeling, more than I prefer.

Let me add, I much prefer filter systems than the various salt based systems.

 

[hollowoutadime]

We're in Ohio and have hard water with some iron. When I bought the place the toilets were sort of nasty, since I have owned it, they are clean, free of iron deposits. it took a little bit of work to figure it all out.

I'm on a 22gpm well and run the water through two "big blue" filter housings, then through a water softener. Water is tasteless (that's good).
The 20"x4.5" filters cost about $10-$20 ea. The first is a 5 micron sediment filter, they are only about $8.

20" x 4.5" Big Blue Sediment PP Polypropylene Whole house Water Filter 10 Pack | eBay

100% PP Polypropylene for compatibility with a wide range of process fluids. Maximum Flow Capacity: 1 - 30 GPM. Total 10 filters, each individually wrapped.

www.ebay.com

The second is a carbon filter (same size), about $18.

The sediment filter lasts about two months, the carbon filter a little longer .If you autopsy the used sediment filter, it looks new under a couple layers. You can get them in any filtration size (see link)

I'm using this softener:

Amazon.com

I use two clear housings like this one. 1" ports.

20" x4.5" Big Blue Clear Whole House Filter Housing 1" Ports W/ Pressure Release | eBay

Double O ring Housing. Sump/ Housing Color : Clear.

www.ebay.com

I plumbed all this myself (most of my house I sweat copper with a little bit of pex expansion), it's not that difficult.

Notes:
The previous owners didn't pre-filter the water, the sediment fouls the softener, so I replaced that system. Initially I ran filters before and after the softener, there is no need for that. I run both before.

I think you can do the whole setup for about $1500 including a couple years of filters.

I quit my job to build my house and didn't skimp on the water or anything else.
It was a shit-ton of work, but my favorite part might be my water-waster shower - much better than my last house on city water.

 

[hollowoutadime]

BTW, if you have a sulfur smell and haven't "shocked" the well, do so. It may clear up your problem. It's about an hour's work (although the process usually involves the chlorine disinfecting the well for 12 hours or so).

 

[supercorndogs]

I use a 3 stage carbon filter. We haven’t had it tested lately but the water tastes good after filtering. Pre-filter we couldn’t stand the smell or taste.

RO is the way to go if you have the money. Bear in mind that RO doubles load on the well. That excess consumption is why we didn’t install RO.

More than double. The most efficient ro systems I see waste 3 gallons to make 1.

Water softeners are out for me. I don't want to replace potassium in the water with sodium.

 

[supercorndogs]

We've got a 5 stage unit here, that I've mounted to the wall but have yet to 'plumb it in' as we've simply had far too many other crises and chaos to deal with IRL.

Interesting thread, and I'm curious to see the outcome as well. Originally this was for creating a reef aquarium, but that's been parked and I'm leaning towards getting away from the 'brita-type-thing' pitcher and simply getting this unit going.

Sing out!

The Brita pour through filters do not reduce the ppms at all.

 

[Big Phish]

If you can, run it through a filter to get the sediment out, then through a water softener, and after that run it through a RO system. If you do 'Whole House' make sure you put it through an 'ionization stage' to bring the PH back up or it will slowly leach the copper out of your pipes or fittings. The sediment filter gets out the rocks and stuff, the water softener gets the magnesium and calcium out and replaces it with sodium, then the RO takes care of the sodium.

we had an Indian Casino try to do a whole property RO only to find out a year later that they ended up with pin-hole leaks everywhere because of the leaching.

Just my 2 cents.

I had to do a lot replumbing in homes with this and its no fun for the customers. Expensive as hell now but now we will replacewith Pex but the iron just coats inside the pex with scales. There is a lot of systems out there but remove the iron is the first thing to do. Its costly regardless but when you will want an osmosis system in the final pass through before whole house. What a PITA to do the maintenances and if relapse then SOL. Water hauling and cistern is less costly and an easier way overall.

 

[TheHorta]

I drink my own urine.

I am my own enclosed system.

 

[hankpac]

So we have pretty hard water. The city supply comes from wells. The report puts TDS at 1200 a ppm meter shows about 700ppm. Considering the geology and the color staining. I would suspect that a lot of the ppm is going to be iron and calcium/lime.

I have been looking at three stage filters but I wonder how much they will be able to drop the ppm. It makes me wonder if a full house RO system would be better. Who is filtering well water here? What's your filter set up? How was your water before and how much improvement have you seen?

Lakeview Oregon has about as bad a water system as I have ever seen, with many dissolved minerals, and coffee looking water co ing from the tap. Mostly Iron and Manganese. Supposedly the Feds say, “Safe levels”. Sure. (Hang on I’m getting there).
Simple start, was to only drink bottled water. Cooking too.
Installed a whole House Pelican filter, (charcoal) which removed all discoloring agents, so that towels and underwear, and the tub didn’t stain any. More. In fact the water was crystal clear in the tub. Still didn’t drink it. Put in a RO at the kitchen sink for cooking, although tea and soup, and ice are still bottled.
Changed the pre filter once a month and the charcoal once a year. Made all the difference.

 

[SONIC SAAMI]

 

[wvfarrier]

So we have pretty hard water. The city supply comes from wells. The report puts TDS at 1200 a ppm meter shows about 700ppm. Considering the geology and the color staining. I would suspect that a lot of the ppm is going to be iron and calcium/lime.

I have been looking at three stage filters but I wonder how much they will be able to drop the ppm. It makes me wonder if a full house RO system would be better. Who is filtering well water here? What's your filter set up? How was your water before and how much improvement have you seen?

We are using a Kind Water System for our well water. It works great and is less hassle than the Culligan we had

 

[supercorndogs]

Does anyone have any idea how much their filter system dropped their TDS or PPM in their water? That is the main concern. Yes RO should be near zero, but if i can filter and get the iron and maganese out and get the water below 200ppm filters are plenty with out the extra cost and waste of ro.

What was your ppm or tds before adding the filters and after. I don't need.to l ow from ro people it should be near zero.

My water clogs shower heads, clogs the bowl wash in the toilet and you have to be real careful with it starting seeds and with house plants.

 

[supercorndogs]

If you can, run it through a filter to get the sediment out, then through a water softener, and after that run it through a RO system. If you do 'Whole House' make sure you put it through an 'ionization stage' to bring the PH back up or it will slowly leach the copper out of your pipes or fittings. The sediment filter gets out the rocks and stuff, the water softener gets the magnesium and calcium out and replaces it with sodium, then the RO takes care of the sodium.

we had an Indian Casino try to do a whole property RO only to find out a year later that they ended up with pin-hole leaks everywhere because of the leaching.

Just my 2 cents.

There are towns in the Arkansas Valley that have RO for their municple water system. One of them had to install before they woukd build a prison there because the water considered unfit for the prisoners.

 

[Aftermath]

I am seriously thinking about one of THESE for a 2 story outbuilding I am planning to be an office/man cave/"hobby" room.

 

[Gemsbok]

All the processes/methods described above will be “best” for a particular problem. There are several good companies that can build a solution. Do not trust the supplier/builder to test your water. Pay an independent analytical lab to test your water.

Filters remove particulate matter…sand, algae, big stuff, but not bacteria viruses or dissolved minerals or dissolved metals.

Softeners exchange soluble minerals (table salt) for less soluble minerals (hard water deposits calcite). Sometimes sodium is a health hazard, sometimes there’s so much calcite that treated water is noticeably salty taste.

Activated carbon removes dissolved metal ions, like iron. Carbon “fills up” and needs to be replaced before it dumps all the accumulated metals back into the formerly treated side of the system.

Ultraviolet treatment kills bacteria and maybe viruses. UV lamps become useless before they “burn out” and there is no way to tell.

Chlorination kills living stuff, usually. Needs proper ion balance before chlorination. Fwiw if you smell that swimming pool chlorine you’re smelling chloramines and probably don’t have enough chlorine.

Reverse osmosis reduces the concentration of nearly everything but sends a lot of water (with all the “removed stuff”) to waste.

Breaking head in the system by including a storage tank open to the atmosphere helps with dissolved gases like carbon dioxide and hydrogen sulfide which contribute to aggressive (corrosive) water.

All systems have consumable parts that will require routine maintenance.

+1 on only treating the service points that need it.