Waterproofing?

[pepper 2111]

I'm thinking about getting a new pair of boots that aren't waterproof. I was thinking about spraying them with some kiwi camp dry or something similar to keep them from getting soaked from wet grass or the occasional small puddle. Anyone have any luck with a certain type of spray that works well on boots or other gear for that matter?

Thanks,

Luke

 

[Bunnypunter]

I prefer the Nikwax spray. I've used this stuff on tons of ski/rain gear. Works awesome on sythetic fibers. They have other applications that work better on leather.

Spray-on waterproofing for wet weather clothing | TX.Direct Spray-On

 

[45.308]

What boots; material, how much stitching, etc

Grangers has worked very well for me.

Biwell red has been superb rubbed in deep by hand.

Some waterproofing can be a detriment, too much is a bad thing.

Contrary to thought, water based works very well, get the boot damp, apply water based product, being water based the damp leather wicks the proofing deep into the leather.

 

[pepper 2111]

What boots; material, how much stitching, etc

Grangers has worked very well for me.

Biwell red has been superb rubbed in deep by hand.

Some waterproofing can be a detriment, too much is a bad thing.

Contrary to thought, water based works very well, get the boot damp, apply water based product, being water based the damp leather wicks the proofing deep into the leather.

I was looking at these:
Under Armour Ops Tactical Training Shoes

I guess their actually "shoes"

 

[45.308]

First, run a bead of Seam Grip over all the stitching/seams/welt on the lower, this will improve waterproofing but most important, protect the stitching from abrasion.

Get boot wax, I prefer Biwell red but there are many and prefer Grangers and even Snowseal over Nikwax. Place the boots in direct sun light or place them in an oven on low heat to warm the leather and open the pours of the leather. While still warm, rub boot wax by hand into the leather, work it good into the leather. do one boot at a time. This will apply the wax deep into the leather of a warm boot and the was will melt by your hand and the friction and warm boot. But, do not over apply good wax to this quality of leather or it will soften the leather too much. Once but no more than twice a year depending on how much use.

Spray on any spray onto the upper, a water base on damp nylon.

 

[pepper 2111]

First, run a bead of Seam Grip over all the stitching/seams/welt on the lower, this will improve waterproofing but most important, protect the stitching from abrasion.

Get boot wax, I prefer Biwell red but there are many and prefer Grangers and even Snowseal over Nikwax. Place the boots in direct sun light or place them in an oven on low heat to warm the leather and open the pours of the leather. While still warm, rub boot wax by hand into the leather, work it good into the leather. do one boot at a time. This will apply the wax deep into the leather of a warm boot and the was will melt by your hand and the friction and warm boot. But, do not over apply good wax to this quality of leather or it will soften the leather too much. Once but no more than twice a year depending on how much use.

Spray on any spray onto the upper, a water base on damp nylon.

Thank you so much for the detailed response! Would the process be the same with the multicam version? I think the materials are a little different. Also, what temperature and for how long in an oven? Sorry for all the questions, but this is completely foreign to me

 

[TRAAV]

Might check this out. I have never used it ive just been seeing it advertised. It looks interesting.
NeverWet Arrives - Hands-On Product Demonstration - YouTube

 

[pepper 2111]

The video is great, but the user reviews don't look promising. Apparently short lived and will flake off with wear and tear. Probably wouldn't work for active use footwear

 

[hlee]

Any amount of water that will soak through the shoe- without a waterproofing treatment- to the point that it is a problem will likely defeat any chemical treatment that you apply. My (limited) experience with chemical treatments to non-waterproof gear is that it works okay for occasional damp grass or dew, but will fail with prolonged exposure (walking through a rain soaked field) or submersion. My advice (worth exactly what you paid for it) is to examine what you are going to be doing then buy gear appropriate to that task. If you need waterproof shoes because you will be running regularly in a wet environment then get waterproof shoes. If you want waterproof shoes because you might (sometime in the unforeseen future) run into an unavoidable damp spot then go for the chem treatment- but prepare for wet feet.

I spent 3 days hunting in norther California during a constant rain wearing a set of permeable waterproof outerwear (not goretex) and by the last day I might as well have been standing out there in a cotton shirt.

Any material that is permeable, has pores, is woven, or is stitched together will eventually leak!

 

[SomeOtherGuy]

Silicone sprays provide very little protection. One splash they will keep off, the damp field mentioned they will soak through quickly.

There's some ongoing controversy about products like sno-seal. Some people claim they destroy the leather over time.

I have had VERY good results from Nikwax, which is basically a wax in water solution that penetrates and then dries. It's somewhat similar to runny white glue, actually. I have used it on motorcycle and hiking boots. You want to get all the seams thoroughly soaked, as that's where leakage will usually start. I have not had anything properly treated with Nikwax soak through - in some leathers (suede) the surface will get some moistening, and I imagine after days it would soak through, but I haven't had that problem.

I have heard great reviews (including from my father) of Obenauf's leather preservative. It's sold by Russell Moccasin, which knows a bit about leather (their boots run $250-500). I've linked their site below, but you can also get it places like REI, Amazon, etc.

Obenauf's Leather Preservative :: Leather Boot Care Products

Any of these should protect your boots against wet grass or a small puddle.

 

[kraigWY]

Sno-Seal.

Used it for over 20 years on my Cross-Country Ski boots, it works. Works in slushy ice over flows.

 

[bogeybrown]

Totally different approach, but "Neos" are AWESOME. Stands for "New England Over Shoes" they're a huge advancement on the galloshes we wore as kids, made out of goretex. I've used a set for years during the rainy season in Afgh because this place beat up my "waterproof" boots to the point they weren't anymore.

 

[45.308]

Thank you so much for the detailed response! Would the process be the same with the multicam version? I think the materials are a little different. Also, what temperature and for how long in an oven? Sorry for all the questions, but this is completely foreign to me

Just warm like a good sunny day would have the leather, you can even apply Biwell or any beeswax and heat it or melt it in with a hair drier but I had best luck with a warm boot in the sun and just rub by hand to work it in the leather.

Snowseal is very good but it dries tacky compared to Biwell. This is OK for very wet snowy icy environments but add some dirt like glacier silt and it sticks to the snoseal. I prefer Biwell red, red is petroleum and green is silicone and on my boots, lasted the longest and soaked/rubbed into leather the easiest and deepest.

All boot wax is very similar, beeswax based, its the extra additives that makes the difference and with over-use, most will soften and ruin leather. I doubt you or anyone can tell the difference between Biwell, Nikwax, Snowseal, Grangers on boots other than from my experience says snoseal is tacky, its not a bad think just is. I prefer Biwell red and started using it back long time ago so its what I recommend. Use a boot wax once a year and always keep waterbase waterproof around, when the leather of your boots get wet during use in the hills, come home and apply some water base and it will soak in. You can use water base everyday if you have too. Always rinse off your boots first, get dirt, debris and mud off first.

Its doubtful the leather or feet will get very wet with those boots in wet grass or puddles even with out waterproofing. Flex points is where most leather and WPing will let water in, or hard ware points on soft leather.

Properly shrunk leather requires no extra waterproofing or goretex barrier but as boot manufactures found out, Gore Industries mighty advertising dollar has everyone thinking they have to had or need Goretex in everything. Do not want to get into leather beta, too much for me to thought process.

I would not think about it too much, get what ever is avail in your AO, wax and water based, apply it and have fun.

 

[mark5pt56]

Properly shrunk leather requires no extra waterproofing or goretex barrier but as boot manufactures found out, Gore Industries mighty advertising dollar has everyone thinking they have to had or need Goretex in everything. Do not want to get into leather beta, too much for me to thought process.


^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Yeah, my freaking Gortex Danner's work as well as the ones without.

Oh--and as my son found out--do not use the "never wet" on leather, they look like he painted them with a rattle can in white.