Suppressors Well fuck, now what?

[WeiserBucks]

I installed my TBAC 338 CB brake with Roksett months ago and everything has been business as usual installing and removing the can.

After today's shooting session ended I went to remove the can and the CB brake came off with it. Muzzle threads have Roksett residue and the brake threads don't. Soooooooo, do I reapply Roksett and thread the fucker back on and hope it stays or go some other direction?

 

[Zak Smith]

Clean both interfaces and then reinstall using RED or HIGH TEMP RED Loctite. Wait 24 hours to cure and then remove.

Rocksett is no stronger than Blue Loctite, it just doesn't melt.

 

[WeiserBucks]

Any tips for cleaning the threads besides hot water and a brush?

 

[Zak Smith]

For the Rocksett, that's probably it. Finish with alcohol or acetone to fully degrease both surfaces.

 

[WeiserBucks]

Thanks Zak, got it all apart and cleaned up. Going back together with Red Loctite.

 

[Charger442]

Suppressors - Rocksett gone bad?

I used some Rocksett to mount a 30CB brake on a bolt gun in December. I have shot it a few times after that, but not long strings of fire, or more than about 20 rounds before removing the can. Then recently, i shot quite a bit, about 150 rounds in a two day time without removing the...

www.snipershide.com

happened to me last year with rockset, but while i was looking for my thread i see you got it fixed up.

Theres some fireclean fun in that old thread too.

 

[schmi015]

shit, i could have used this info the other day. I usually use loctite. I installed the cb brake for my brother who got his can outa jail and he had rocksett. Well wouldnt you know that after letting it cure for 3 days, i know it says 12 hours, we went out shooting and went to unscrew the can and the brake came off with it. I ended up using red loctite and screwing it back on the CB with can on. Today i was able to unscrew the can from the cb.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Yep red loctite is the way to go and properly torqued, that’s what I’ve used on all my TBAC.

If the brake is stuck in the can, Loctite it on and let it it set up for 24hr and then remove the can. Heat the brake up with a propane torch or heat gun and take it back off. Clean, time reapply loctite and torque it.

 

[ACard]

Clean both interfaces and then reinstall using RED or HIGH TEMP RED Loctite. Wait 24 hours to cure and then remove.

Rocksett is no stronger than Blue Loctite, it just doesn't melt.

Zak, have you guys ever evaluated this product?

Hot-Lock® Extreme High Temperature Threadlocker

www.vibra-tite.com

 

[Zak Smith]

Yes.

I've used it for things like gas block set screws.

But it's still close in strength to blue loctite (ie, medium strength). High-temp high-strength loctite is still what we recommend for muzzle brakes. Henkel also makes an "ultra-high temp, high strength" loctite that comes in paste format if I remember correctly, that has a melting temperature even higher than 272.

 

[Viper1973]

Clean both interfaces and then reinstall using RED or HIGH TEMP RED Loctite. Wait 24 hours to cure and then remove.

Rocksett is no stronger than Blue Loctite, it just doesn't melt.

Zak,

Might be a stupid question... What's the easiest way to get red loctite out of the threads to reinstall without damaging anything? I have several breaks to install since my stamp came back. I've had very little experience with the evil red stuff

 

[Strykervet]

For the Rocksett, that's probably it. Finish with alcohol or acetone to fully degrease both surfaces.

Acetone until qtips come out white. Needs to be that white glove inspection clean ideally. You didn't have a bond.

I use both and haven't come to a conclusion on which works better. For range shit, I don't think it matters much. For fording rivers and streams and Navy shit, I sometimes wonder about Rocksett. For high volume fire I wonder about the loctite. I gotta say though, never shot either loose.

Biggest difference is removal --soak in water for Rocksett (or just wrench if off if you can --not so sure I agree about it being similar in strength to blue but you've dealt with it more than I have). And with red loctite, the torch. IMO/E, the torch is easier/faster so red Loctite. Beware different mfg.'s of thread locker use different colors so...

Green 620 and FTW --if you want permanent, there you go. The JB weld of the loctite world. Will bond aluminum to steel too, it's what I use to permanently bed barrels to AR uppers.

Zak,

Might be a stupid question... What's the easiest way to get red loctite out of the threads to reinstall without damaging anything? I have several breaks to install since my stamp came back. I've had very little experience with the evil red stuff

Not sure if Zak has some kind of voodoo, but if you got a US cleaner I'd give that a go (haven't tried it for that, but if it does work it'll be by far your easiest way to go if you have several). Next, and what I typically do since it's not worth dragging out the US for one brake, is dental picks and bronze brushes followed by acetone and qtips. You gotta get ALL that crap out and often scraping it is the only way.

 

[SDet]

Brake clean does an okay job with loctite. Spray it into a cup, scrub with a q tip.

 

[Alvin W]

This stuff works great to remove old loctite, be sure to use in a well ventilated area

 

[Viper1973]

View attachment 7437696
This stuff works great to remove old loctite, be sure to use in a well ventilated area

Awesome!!! I didn't know they made a solvent. Thank you.