Rifle Scopes Wet or dry torque?
- Thread starter NndMojoman
- Start date
This thread isn't finished until there has been midget porn brought up...
BWT- NAILED IT....
R
thats because honda likely did a cost benefit analysis and realized putting antiseize on bolts would likely add time and cost to assembling the transmission...and they dont care because 95% of their transmissions are never going to be serviced and taken apart....so if bolts seize, its not an issue...so its worth it to them to save the extra few $$ and couple of minutes.
please go away now and leave the engineering to people who actually know what they are talking about.
The old saying about engineers "over educated and under intelligent"
LOL
Where I used to work we did contract AT reman for Honda. We remaned tens of thousands of their shitting 1st gen 5ATs and not a single case bolt failed to come out.
If you ever use a spuhr don't degrease the threads. According to spuhr himself. Post 11 in this thread.
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/question-on-spuhr-instructions-regarding-rosin.6906592/
Did some searching on the hide and found that on 2 different threads @koshkin does not recommend loctite at all.
Here is one. Post 23
https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...te-on-mounts-s-b-scope-w-spuhr-mount.6880815/
Here is one. Post 23
https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...te-on-mounts-s-b-scope-w-spuhr-mount.6880815/
The fasteners torque down to create a preload which clamps the lapped surfaces together and the combination of the coefficient(s) of friction between the two surfaces and the clamping force keeps the two surfaces together. The higher the clamping force, the more secure the connection will be but you don't want to yield the fastener...yielding the threads after the first torque is pretty much inevitable.
The shorthand formula for bolt torque is T=KdF where d is the diameter of the shank and F is the preload (tensile load) applied to bolt. K is the nut factor which is usually categorized by the compound used with the threads. There is a longer formula which can be used in-place of the using the approach with the nut factor which is derived from the threads and materials, but most places prefer to have proprietary tests to derive a nut factor to put empirical data to their application.
So the bottom line is that there is always a difference and it is best to follow the manufacturer's instruction whether they specify loctite or a specific anti-galling compound, especially if they have developed in-house empirical data. From a practical perspective, the nut factor is linearly proportional to the amount of pretension the joint will experience so if you want to try and quantify the difference try and look up some of the industry standards for the differences between the different nut factors or call the manufacturer.
The shorthand formula for bolt torque is T=KdF where d is the diameter of the shank and F is the preload (tensile load) applied to bolt. K is the nut factor which is usually categorized by the compound used with the threads. There is a longer formula which can be used in-place of the using the approach with the nut factor which is derived from the threads and materials, but most places prefer to have proprietary tests to derive a nut factor to put empirical data to their application.
So the bottom line is that there is always a difference and it is best to follow the manufacturer's instruction whether they specify loctite or a specific anti-galling compound, especially if they have developed in-house empirical data. From a practical perspective, the nut factor is linearly proportional to the amount of pretension the joint will experience so if you want to try and quantify the difference try and look up some of the industry standards for the differences between the different nut factors or call the manufacturer.
Oooh, ooh, oooh, Mister Kotter!
I can safety wire shit!
I have no idea why, but I actually like doing it.
The safety wire on the castle nuts looks like shit.
I would have taken the "woman in comfortable shoes" pliers to that.
Assuming the bolts aren't over-tightened, use a paint pen to make a small mark at the junction of scope and ring, on the front and back of each ring. Any movement or rotation will be immediately evident.
Check or remark occasionally. Move on with life.
Good info on torque, however. I enjoyed the read.
Check or remark occasionally. Move on with life.
Good info on torque, however. I enjoyed the read.
This. the difference with the values used on rifles is so minute its not worth figuring the difference
I can offer a couple of reasons why you might actually like it.
1) one is you are slightly demented and have a masochistic personality, totally feasible with the crowd your running with around here ?
2) while you were learning to safety wire fasteners you didn't have a total asshole that would allow you to put in a bunch of time and effort into it only to come behind you and proceed to cut all of your work up and then tell you what was wrong with it.
#1 Absolutely true.
#2 My tech school instructor was exactly what you said. Do the entire job and the cut the bad shit off. At least he would show you exactly why he was cutting it, before he made the cut.
I got to cheat a little because a guy in my neighborhood that raced cars showed me the basics before I enlisted.
