My present powder throw, varies 2 to 3 tenths of a grain. Is it achievable for a powder throw to be consistent with each load.
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What a good powder throw?
- Thread starter bryce01
- Start date
Re: What a good powder throw?
Can it be done, Hell yea. Easily. I would recomend batch loading for precision. You know, clean, size, prime, then throw powder all together. Get your powder thrower off a busy bench. Put it alone so no vibration will change the throw from case to case. You kinda have to get your system down with throwing powder. Everybody does it different, some tap the handle, some done. Whatever you decide on you need to make it the same each and every time you throw the knob of your powder dispenser. Some throwers are better than others, not to get into a brand thread. You really have to sit down and master your unit. I use a harrels benchrest powder thrower. Amazing unit, non ball bearing but still very nice.
Can it be done, Hell yea. Easily. I would recomend batch loading for precision. You know, clean, size, prime, then throw powder all together. Get your powder thrower off a busy bench. Put it alone so no vibration will change the throw from case to case. You kinda have to get your system down with throwing powder. Everybody does it different, some tap the handle, some done. Whatever you decide on you need to make it the same each and every time you throw the knob of your powder dispenser. Some throwers are better than others, not to get into a brand thread. You really have to sit down and master your unit. I use a harrels benchrest powder thrower. Amazing unit, non ball bearing but still very nice.
Re: What a good powder throw?
I would never ever use a thrower straight into a case, but thats just me.
MAYBE if i was loading about 1 grain above book minimum and only had minor variations and was loading thousands of rounds using a not so sensitive powder (varget)... Then maybe I would go straight from a thrower into the cases.
A friend of mine was doing this using a fast burning powder (AR2206H) its an aussie powder, not sure what the US equivalent is, but he was getting sticky bolt lifts on about 50% of his firings.
After explaining the dangers to him he ended up going home and pulling 200 rounds apart.
I havnt used an expensive brand thrower, but would be keen to see how close they get you to the mark.
I would never ever use a thrower straight into a case, but thats just me.
MAYBE if i was loading about 1 grain above book minimum and only had minor variations and was loading thousands of rounds using a not so sensitive powder (varget)... Then maybe I would go straight from a thrower into the cases.
A friend of mine was doing this using a fast burning powder (AR2206H) its an aussie powder, not sure what the US equivalent is, but he was getting sticky bolt lifts on about 50% of his firings.
After explaining the dangers to him he ended up going home and pulling 200 rounds apart.
I havnt used an expensive brand thrower, but would be keen to see how close they get you to the mark.
Re: What a good powder throw?
It depends on the powder more than anything else - for plinking and tactical match rounds that go out to 400m I use a thrower that is accurate to 1 tenth(IMR4895 in Hornaday), for long range I use a scale and every charge is same weight, for my pistol junk I use a thrower that is usually off by as much as 3 tenths with that powder(IMR800X in Dillon) because there is no concern over long range accuracy or repeatability.
It depends on the powder more than anything else - for plinking and tactical match rounds that go out to 400m I use a thrower that is accurate to 1 tenth(IMR4895 in Hornaday), for long range I use a scale and every charge is same weight, for my pistol junk I use a thrower that is usually off by as much as 3 tenths with that powder(IMR800X in Dillon) because there is no concern over long range accuracy or repeatability.
Re: What a good powder throw?
You don't say what your "powder throw" is, nor what cartridge and powder you are using and that matters, a lot.
If you are loading for a .22 Hornet a variation of .3 gr. can be significant. If you're loading for a .458 Win, it won't matter a bit. Nor is it likely to matter very much with handgun ammo no matter the cartridge.
Measures obviously meter by volume, not weight. The amount of solids (powder) that goes into the chamber depends on the physical size of the kernals, how consistant the operator is and the actual method that measure requires for best consistancy with that type of powder. All saying that the "best" measure varies quite a bit with the individual users.
Ball powders meter like water, it measures well and fine kernels of tubular powders are almost as good.
Flake powders vary a bit. Thin flakes tend to work between the body and the rotor. That causes binding no matter what we do or what we use.
Coarse tubular powders (rifle) won't meter very consistantly no matter what measure or method we use. So, many of us either drop coarse stuff straight as best we can for high volume ammo and, maybe, weigh/trickle each charge for smaller amounts of precision ammo. Fact is, factory rifles at ranges inside maybe 600 yards and most hanguns won't notice a .3 gr. spread.
In general, all cast iron measures such as the Reddings, Hornady, RCBS, Lyman are good and, on average, equal in consistancy if the operator himself is good. Somewhat surprising, Lee's inexpensive little "Perfect" plastic bodied measure appears to be the most consistant despenser of coarse powders but it can leak ball powders unless the operator adjusts the rotor properly.
You don't say what your "powder throw" is, nor what cartridge and powder you are using and that matters, a lot.
If you are loading for a .22 Hornet a variation of .3 gr. can be significant. If you're loading for a .458 Win, it won't matter a bit. Nor is it likely to matter very much with handgun ammo no matter the cartridge.
Measures obviously meter by volume, not weight. The amount of solids (powder) that goes into the chamber depends on the physical size of the kernals, how consistant the operator is and the actual method that measure requires for best consistancy with that type of powder. All saying that the "best" measure varies quite a bit with the individual users.
Ball powders meter like water, it measures well and fine kernels of tubular powders are almost as good.
Flake powders vary a bit. Thin flakes tend to work between the body and the rotor. That causes binding no matter what we do or what we use.
Coarse tubular powders (rifle) won't meter very consistantly no matter what measure or method we use. So, many of us either drop coarse stuff straight as best we can for high volume ammo and, maybe, weigh/trickle each charge for smaller amounts of precision ammo. Fact is, factory rifles at ranges inside maybe 600 yards and most hanguns won't notice a .3 gr. spread.
In general, all cast iron measures such as the Reddings, Hornady, RCBS, Lyman are good and, on average, equal in consistancy if the operator himself is good. Somewhat surprising, Lee's inexpensive little "Perfect" plastic bodied measure appears to be the most consistant despenser of coarse powders but it can leak ball powders unless the operator adjusts the rotor properly.
Re: What a good powder throw?
Yes, they can be depending on the powder. Like others have said ball powders flow easily, larger stick powders not so much. My uniflow works great with everything up until IMR 4064/4350.
Yes, they can be depending on the powder. Like others have said ball powders flow easily, larger stick powders not so much. My uniflow works great with everything up until IMR 4064/4350.
