What am i giving up with a Tikka vs custom actions?
- Thread starter Andrew863
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The new Vision Tikka KRG handguns. Go to GCP's website.
Not sayin Tikka prefits don’t work great, but I feel better giving my gun smith my action just in case I’m the guy with the odd ball Tikka action …
Yes I've seen couple bolts failed personally. And they all failed the same way, let me see if I can get a photo for it. I think it's a design limitation, can't avoid it - so having a spare bolt will be good idea, but Tikka's spare bolt is going to cost a bit...
There you go, same exact issue as the OP so borrowing his photo and thread.
PSA: Don't let your bolt gun fall with the bolt open while cleaning it. **UPDATE: FIXED**
Because this happens when you have your sexy Tikka T3x Tac A1 on the work bench, on the bipod, then you bump it, and it falls to the ground... landing on the bolt handle....
www.snipershide.com
It would be a perfect NRL hunter fore end. U can add weights to it, full length arca rail, better for positional, and longer than factory to get spacing between your magwell and bipod. You can run a game changer on a barricade while the bipod is still on. It's better in literally every way.
LRI does make a replacement bolt for tikka now, should be of good quality, so I'd say it's going to be OK so long you have a backup bolt!
Also their analysis suggested the same issue on factory tikka bolt:
Stress analysis proved that the dovetail handle geometry creates a stress concentration. To mitigate the risk of failure we chose to temper this feature and wire EDM corner fillets to create a virtual corner (dog bone) to distribute the loads more effectively.
Also their analysis suggested the same issue on factory tikka bolt:
Stress analysis proved that the dovetail handle geometry creates a stress concentration. To mitigate the risk of failure we chose to temper this feature and wire EDM corner fillets to create a virtual corner (dog bone) to distribute the loads more effectively.
LRI TIKKA REPLACEMENT BOLTS
The Tikka actions and rifles speak for themselves when it comes to quality and we have listened. LRI began this project in the fall of 2019 and we are finally able to offer an industry-first: Aftermarket direct replacement bolts for the Tikka actions! The case study on headspace...
www.longriflesinc.com
Wish i could verify. i didnt have anything on my factory bravo fore end except a polymer pic rail. That shit sucked. with the medium palma barrel finished out at 24" and a supressor, it still feels super light. then i added LOP spacer weights and the exterior weights to the fore end.
but IMO, the juice is worth the squeeze. i dont think i could ever go back to a bravo without this fore end. And honestly, if i was looking at getting a W3 chassis, due to the cost of the new one, i'd go with the last gen and do this fore end swap and feel good about it. I like the new W3 but the price is pretty steep.
I just went through this decision building a rifle for my son. I have a Tikka that’s DLC (or similar) coated that is smooth as shit. I love the action and paired with a proof barrel it shoots lights out. I wanted to get him a Tikka action but the more I looked into it the more I found myself looking at an Origin. I’m very limited on what stock I can run with my Tikka. I don’t like being limited to just Tikka specific parts and accessories. I decided on the Origin and I’m having Southern Precision assemble the rifle.
It’s just the forend that bolts up to the KRG internal frame.
Attachments
I have seen 2 on the hide and I think both were dropped but i'm not saying it cant happen. With thousands and thousands out there I wouldn't call it a common fail point but to each there own it never hurts to have spare parts.LRI does make a replacement bolt for tikka now, should be of good quality, so I'd say it's going to be OK so long you have a backup bolt!
Also their analysis suggested the same issue on factory tikka bolt:
Stress analysis proved that the dovetail handle geometry creates a stress concentration. To mitigate the risk of failure we chose to temper this feature and wire EDM corner fillets to create a virtual corner (dog bone) to distribute the loads more effectively.
LRI TIKKA REPLACEMENT BOLTS
The Tikka actions and rifles speak for themselves when it comes to quality and we have listened. LRI began this project in the fall of 2019 and we are finally able to offer an industry-first: Aftermarket direct replacement bolts for the Tikka actions! The case study on headspace...www.longriflesinc.com
"I can't imagine screwing a barrel onto any action without checking headspace. 70 bucks on one hand, potentially never get laid again on the other. There is no choice." - Charles Darwin (scientist, philosopher, and whoremaster)
The response and feedback from our customers has been excellent with performance being indistinguishable from "hand fit" barrels.
Which is exactly what we strive for with prefits.
I had one - it's better than stock. The dovetail is improved with rounded cuts to relieve stress points, and the extractor is so much more beefy and safe than the sako extractor. Shot great.
I've used two prefits from McGowen on my tikkas - both headspaced fine. I agree that you should just have headspace gauges on hand, because safety, etc. Both shot .5 with basic load development.
IMO the real gains for running a custom are if the custom has AW mags, if you prefer light bolt throws, or during match conditions my tikka got pretty dirty after 150 rounds and didn't cycle as smoothly. I shot both my tikka and my lone peak the other day, and gosh, the Tikka trigger breaks so darn well. The gains for going custom are really just different ergos or specializations for competition use.
EDIT: forgot to specify - they were shouldered prefits
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Come on guys, be real.
If you think you are getting 3/4 of the action out of Beretta that you are out of Zermatt, Impact, or Surgeon you’re smoking the good stuff. Tikka is a fine action, depending on your goals and budget, but rival a top tier custom? No. You’re money ahead to start with an Origin, Nucleus, or a used action. Especially at the prices these factory actions sell for.
If you think you are getting 3/4 of the action out of Beretta that you are out of Zermatt, Impact, or Surgeon you’re smoking the good stuff. Tikka is a fine action, depending on your goals and budget, but rival a top tier custom? No. You’re money ahead to start with an Origin, Nucleus, or a used action. Especially at the prices these factory actions sell for.
All custom actions are not created equal, is a Tikka on par with an Impact, LP or Terminus hell no….. on par with an origin, yes.
You may lose some coolness factor on the shooting line, but a manbun and a pair of pink Uggs will get you all the lost coolness factor.
Shoot what works for you and let others do the same, I have seen some Tikkas with aftermarket cutrifled barrels shoot as well as most any other.
Shoot what works for you and let others do the same, I have seen some Tikkas with aftermarket cutrifled barrels shoot as well as most any other.
There is also the factor that you start with a pretty good rifle that you can shoot in the meantime as you upgrade as you have the money. I got my entire t3x lite stainless lefty in 6.5 creed for $836 from Scheels. That's cheaper than an origin.
OP, what are you giving up?
-A recoil lug.
-Full lug engagement.
-Compatibility with parts.
-Bolt lift.
-A metal bolt shroud.
-Money.
-A rail.
-Bolt handle options.
-Etc
The better question is what are you gaining?
-A recoil lug.
-Full lug engagement.
-Compatibility with parts.
-Bolt lift.
-A metal bolt shroud.
-Money.
-A rail.
-Bolt handle options.
-Etc
The better question is what are you gaining?
Yep. And this is the area where they make the most sense. My truck gun is built off of a T3, and after all of the upgrades and nickel and dime stuff, I should’ve just ordered another Origin.
Recoil lug is there just different. Factory is steel (with current t3x rifles).
Compatability with parts. Tikkas are compatible with Tikka parts. The trigger doesn't need replaced. Haven't ever heard of a recall of Tikka trigger.
Metal bolt shroud. From Tikka website. "Metallic bolt shroud covers and shields the rear of the bolt body and the firing pin."
Rail. Not necessarily needed. Burris, Talley, Warne, and sako also make rings. Ctr comes with a 0 moa rail. Lots make aftermarket rails as well. Same as what happens for 700's. https://www.milehighshooting.com/search-results-page?q=spuhr+tikka/trg
Bolt handles. See if you can't find something that doesn't work for you between Glades armory, Anarchy outdoors, mountain tactical, or Sterk (@cannoncrossfire). It attaches differently than 700's but who cares? Rpr parts, Savage parts, and ai parts aren't compatible with 700's but you don't ever hear about that.
There are different rifles for different people. If you already have a 700 style it doesn't make as much sense. Starting out as a first bolt gun it does pretty well. Are custom actions better? Sure in some ways but not in that you can go out and start shooting with one straight away that all the parts work together. In the same way, an AI or a Tac Ops is better than customs as well.
Besides you sorta need to know what you want with a custom. Yes you can sell parts that you don't like to others but Tikka owners can do the same. The aftermarket is there for the parts that are needed. It's growing as time goes on.
Now if only Beretta hurried up with importing the lefty t1x in 22lr.
I don’t think a Tikka is as good as a top-tier custom, but I don’t understand how you can be money ahead going custom. The tikka does have a rail that certain mounts and rings work with, and doesn’t need a $250+ trigger. That more than makes up for a bolt shroud, which is generally an unnecessary upgrade anyway. It also has a shorter bolt throw than a lot of custom actions.
The only thing I can see is if you purchase an aftermarket bolt.
My t3x. Will eventually change out the barrel down the road. My ultra 7 is in jail.
Need updated pic. No Sterk handle or shroud.
Need updated pic. No Sterk handle or shroud.
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Like I said BTDT. No hate here, but I’m not snorting any Lik-a-Stix either. We are literally having the same discussion that we had regarding $450 untrued Remingtons vs Customs five years ago. Except then the customs were $1000-1100…
They are decent actions but you are definitely money ahead going custom.
I paid right at $730 for the T3 lite donor rifle. Sold factory bottom plastic and mag for net $60, barrel sits in my reloading room, tried to sell it a for net $50 a couple times. Paid $15 for a yo-Dave upgrade, $70 for a shroud, $30 for a lug, $90 for a Sterk handle, and $80? for a rail.
$730 + $285 + ~$50 in shipping for the bolt ons - $60 - $70 (even if I sold the barrel) = $935 + whatever my time is worth.
This was 6-7 years ago sold by a friend who made $30-$40. At that same time I could have bought an Origin for $800 shipped and added a Walker trigger for $40 or Timney for $75. Which would a guy be further ahead doing?
Here’s a couple more questions I probably ought to ask myself:
What’s the headache worth? Wonder how Zermatt will treat me if my bolt, extractor, or bolt stop breaks? What’s that peace of mind worth? What about the cost of upgrades? If I change directions, what does my resale look like?
I just bought a LH McMillan A10 adjustable with a full length Area 419 Arca rail and Grayboe bottom metal for $450 shipped. I’d bet I can buy a top shelf cut rifled Origin prefit for less than $350 shipped and insured to my door. At the end of the day Tikkas make the most sense when you drop a CTR in a Bravo and go shoot, but that is not the same animal as an Origin with a Kreiger. And if you go that way, remember the instant you want to start upgrading, you are burning cash, you are better off immediately selling and buying a custom.
Hey, I’m trying to help a guy not pump hundreds of dollars into a rifle that has 2/3 lug engagement and a sako extractor only to think to himself “I should have bought once and cried once four years ago” when his rail loosens up at a match.
They are decent actions but you are definitely money ahead going custom.
I paid right at $730 for the T3 lite donor rifle. Sold factory bottom plastic and mag for net $60, barrel sits in my reloading room, tried to sell it a for net $50 a couple times. Paid $15 for a yo-Dave upgrade, $70 for a shroud, $30 for a lug, $90 for a Sterk handle, and $80? for a rail.
$730 + $285 + ~$50 in shipping for the bolt ons - $60 - $70 (even if I sold the barrel) = $935 + whatever my time is worth.
This was 6-7 years ago sold by a friend who made $30-$40. At that same time I could have bought an Origin for $800 shipped and added a Walker trigger for $40 or Timney for $75. Which would a guy be further ahead doing?
Here’s a couple more questions I probably ought to ask myself:
What’s the headache worth? Wonder how Zermatt will treat me if my bolt, extractor, or bolt stop breaks? What’s that peace of mind worth? What about the cost of upgrades? If I change directions, what does my resale look like?
I just bought a LH McMillan A10 adjustable with a full length Area 419 Arca rail and Grayboe bottom metal for $450 shipped. I’d bet I can buy a top shelf cut rifled Origin prefit for less than $350 shipped and insured to my door. At the end of the day Tikkas make the most sense when you drop a CTR in a Bravo and go shoot, but that is not the same animal as an Origin with a Kreiger. And if you go that way, remember the instant you want to start upgrading, you are burning cash, you are better off immediately selling and buying a custom.
Hey, I’m trying to help a guy not pump hundreds of dollars into a rifle that has 2/3 lug engagement and a sako extractor only to think to himself “I should have bought once and cried once four years ago” when his rail loosens up at a match.
Shit, it's hard enough to find top shelf blanks for $350. Much less one chambered, shipped, and isnsured.
Fella said he'd bet, I wonder how much. Maybe I can get my next couple blanks paid for.
Fella said he'd bet, I wonder how much. Maybe I can get my next couple blanks paid for.
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I’ll go fly a WTB ad, we’ll give it one week, I’ll happily wager $100. Do we have a bet?
Tikka is a great budget rifle, especially when they were <500 bucks. Imho best kept bone stock +$10 trigger spring. I built a very expensive one, and would've preferred a custom. But, guns are like horses - it matters very little how much they cost going in, it's the ongoing/running costs that far outweigh the depreciation cost.
If you're talking about buying used, anything is possible I guess. Heck, I have a pile of old AI barrels I'd sell you for $150 a piece.
If you place a WTB ad and buy used, no telling what the history is on that pipe. I'm sure someone with a high round count barrel would be glad to sell it for $350 to help cover the cost of another blank.
Are you telling me you can get a NEW one for $350 shipped and insured?
Otherwise, it's easy to bet if you're just going to buy someone's worn out junk.
Need any top shelf AI prefits? I know a guy who will sell you some for $165, shipped and insured
I’m trying to bias my argument? You just compared a new Bighorn with a used Tikka that you bought,
. My argument is literally my actual rifle.You want reality??
The last model 700 I bought, less than 4 months ago, was ~$350 at a pawn shop in Seminole. I could put $500 more into that and have something world class. Or I could just use the fully blueprinted Spartan precision LH 700 barreled action I bought for $750 with a Bartlein, 20 MOA rail, and Cerakote.
We’ll set limits:If you're talking about buying used, anything is possible I guess. Heck, I have a pile of old AI barrels I'd sell you for $150 a piece.
If you place a WTB ad and buy used, no telling what the history is on that pipe. I'm sure someone with a high round count barrel would be glad to sell it for $350 to help cover the cost of another blank.
Are you telling me you can get a NEW one for $350 shipped and insured?
Otherwise, it's easy to bet if you're just going to buy someone's worn out junk.
Need any top shelf AI prefits? I know a guy who will sell you some for $165, shipped and insured
1000 rounds for 6.5 Creed or 308, 500 for high intensity 6.
Better yet we’ll set accuracy limits the barrel I buy has to agg under 3/4” for 5x5.
You have any spare 700LA's you want to get rid of? Stock extractor, stock threads. I have a new barrel I want to use, but my old barrel won't die
- perfect reason for another rifle.
See you won’t bet will you, @dimar1492 ? Even if you won’t acknowledge the power of that market, your wallet knows it’s there.
@reubenski
- Tikka bolt lugs don’t engage the whole way, they use 2/3 of the lug.
- By Walker trigger I mean an OG Mike Walker designed Rem 700 trigger.
- Tikka bolt lugs don’t engage the whole way, they use 2/3 of the lug.
- By Walker trigger I mean an OG Mike Walker designed Rem 700 trigger.
Enjoy your origin, mine was junk and gave me a lot of problems. It was serial number #3 I got it for 650$ when the origin was first coming out. I’ll take my Tikka which has never given me any problems and has been through 4 barrels.
Not interested is participating in a used market experiment. Guess it was my mistake to assume you meant a new barrel. The limits suggested in your other post, only you can confirm. I have no interest in the pre-used barrel market. The possibilities are endless to what kind of buy/trade could be worked out for a used barrel.
Barrels, are regular wear items. I don't buy used tires, brake pads, or other wear items. Also, I don't buy used barrels or brass.
To answer your question, NO. I'm not betting on your used barrel experiment.
@reubenski
You can’t have 100% lug engagement and a 70* bolt throw on a two lug bolt. They just use less safety margin, it’s probably part of the reason they heat treat their bolts the way they do. It’s an ongoing theme with the rifle; plastic shroud, aluminum lug, plastic mag, min spec - budget stuff. Not surprised they fixed the cheapest parts, but now want $200 more for their rifles.
You can’t have 100% lug engagement and a 70* bolt throw on a two lug bolt. They just use less safety margin, it’s probably part of the reason they heat treat their bolts the way they do. It’s an ongoing theme with the rifle; plastic shroud, aluminum lug, plastic mag, min spec - budget stuff. Not surprised they fixed the cheapest parts, but now want $200 more for their rifles.
I ran a tikka 6.5 in PRs a couple years ago and here is what I learned. I had trouble getting it to be a “heavy” gun in my KRG W3 compared to what everybody had. The action diameter is smaller which kept me from slapping on a m40 contour on it as well. If I did another one I would do one in a PRS1 stock in a 6mm and I think it would balance out ok. It did have a better bolt throw than all my Customes I’ve ever had including my 6BR impact I have currently.
How else are you going to get a "wet" weight?Wtf live rounds in the mag
What problem did you have with your Origin? Actually it doesn’t matter, I’ll fix it and Zermatt will stand behind it.
I’ll give you $800 shipped and insured for it right now. Sight unseen. PM payment details if that works.
