What Brand of Brass for an Accurate AR10?

[Franko]

I am in the process of putting together a Seekins SP10 build. This is my first large frame gas gun and would like suggestions on what brass to use.

I use Lapua for my bolt guns but am wondering if something like Starline or Hornady is a better choice as I expect the gas gun to beat up my brass more and there will probably be more lost on the ground. If I do go this way am I losing much accuracy or is it going to be minimal considering this is going to be my first rodeo on a large frame gasser.

Thanks in advance.

 

[RegionRat]

This depends on your budget and goals.

Since you asked for advice, I would not hesitate to use Lake City brass that has been sorted and carefully prepped to get started.
I would also not hesitate to experiment with Starline in either large or small primer and see what your system likes.

Nothing wrong with Lapua, but your comments on the gas gun being very rough on brass are on point, so maybe start with some LC or Starline and see how far that takes you before you decide on upgrading.

I think the regular Seekins SP10 comes with an 18" 1:11.25 barrel, so be mindful not to expect the velocities of a 30" Palma rig.

You might even think about buying a small lot of say one or two hundred rounds of factory match ammo, to get her started with a good baseline match load and then save and reload that brass alongside some virgin brass of another brand to get the experience of the two different case brands under your belt. You will get a baseline goal for your reloads to meet or exceed that factory ammo, and have a baseline to fall back on for troubleshooting. In any case, have fun and play it safe.
Good Luck and in for the range reports.

 

[Doom]

^^^^, PMC would be a good choice for factory ammo.

 

[rdinak]

Brass

Here you go. A cost effective starting point.

 

[Taylorbok]

how much brass do you need?
I'd still run Lapua personally.

 

[FredHammer]

I don't like to run Lapua through my gas guns either. I buy 1X FC, Hornady, Rem bulk for about $.20 a piece. They are then only fired once more, "Fire & Forget" brass. These do have softer pockets so that's about all they're good for in my opinion.

 

[Franko]

how much brass do you need?
I'd still run Lapua personally.

I figure 300 would probably last me a long time. I am hesitant on Lapua for two reasons; I don't want my bolt gun brass which I baby getting mixed into gas gun brass (which I expect to run hard and put away wet) and at the moment I'm not sure I can shoot the difference as this will be my first large frame gas gun.

 

[Franko]

I don't like to run Lapua through my gas guns either. I buy 1X FC, Hornady, Rem bulk for about $.20 a piece. They are then only fired once more, "Fire & Forget" brass. These do have softer pockets so that's about all they're good for in my opinion.

I'm leaning towards once fired Hornady as I expect I can find it pretty cheap and my guess is that 3-5 reloads is about all I am going to get.

 

[RegionRat]

I'm leaning towards once fired Hornady as I expect I can find it pretty cheap and my guess is that 3-5 reloads is about all I am going to get.

Just some free advice, take it or leave it.
Not sure if you have an experienced mentor or not. Not sure if you have ever loaded at the range or not.

Starting out, I like to bring rookies to the range with my portable loading gear.
We zero the rig with good quality standard baseline target ammo, picking the stuff they are most likely to use in the long run as a starting point.
Unless you plan to shoot this rig past 600 yards, that would be something like a match quality 168 or if you plan on going farther use the 175.

We inspect that brass for critical dimensions before and after the first shots, and double check to make sure the rig is functioning properly and monitor the ejection pattern. The day starts with the rig very clean and lubricated on the wet side.

We run a small number of say three to five cases through the cycles and they get to learn about what the rig wants in terms of bump and what to expect.
They learn what to look for when they inspect their brass to detect signs of EOL (end of life) failures.

Then, when they go home they have the confidence to know what that chamber likes and how to feed it. That session is easy and saves us lots of headaches later on. YMMV

 

[FredHammer]

I'm leaning towards once fired Hornady as I expect I can find it pretty cheap and my guess is that 3-5 reloads is about all I am going to get.

If you are loading for precision stuff and not hot rodding, I can see getting that many reloads. All my AR platforms are for hog hunting and the end times, so as long as they hold a primer once, I am GTG.

 

[bax]

Brass

Here you go. A cost effective starting point.

It says "crimped primers". Can be fixed but an extra step.

 

[Taylorbok]

What is the intended use? Based on the title I assumed you wanted to squeeze every last bit out of it.

 

[Franko]

Just some free advice, take it or leave it.
Not sure if you have an experienced mentor or not. Not sure if you have ever loaded at the range or not.

Starting out, I like to bring rookies to the range with my portable loading gear.
We zero the rig with good quality standard baseline target ammo, picking the stuff they are most likely to use in the long run as a starting point.
Unless you plan to shoot this rig past 600 yards, that would be something like a match quality 168 or if you plan on going farther use the 175.

We inspect that brass for critical dimensions before and after the first shots, and double check to make sure the rig is functioning properly and monitor the ejection pattern. The day starts with the rig very clean and lubricated on the wet side.

We run a small number of say three to five cases through the cycles and they get to learn about what the rig wants in terms of bump and what to expect.
They learn what to look for when they inspect their brass to detect signs of EOL (end of life) failures.

Then, when they go home they have the confidence to know what that chamber likes and how to feed it. That session is easy and saves us lots of headaches later on. YMMV

I have about 5 years of reloading for bolt guns and pistols under my belt. I am a conservative reloader and like to take things slow and your advice is very much appreciated. No gas gun mentor so going to take it real slow.

 

[blksno]

personally, I have no interest in feeding expensive brass into a semi-auto that's just going to chew it to pieces.

 

[Franko]

What is the intended use? Based on the title I assumed you wanted to squeeze every last bit out of it.

I am hoping to make "good" ammo as I already reload for bolt guns and have the tools. I am not sure about the value of buying and beating up high quality brass as I am new to the large frame world and expect it is going to take me some time to be a competent driver.

 

[kriller134]

I’m using Peterson SRP in my 6.5 SP10.

 

[Taylorbok]

I am hoping to make "good" ammo as I already reload for bolt guns and have the tools. I am not sure about the value of buying and beating up high quality brass as I am new to the large frame world and expect it is going to take me some time to be a competent driver.

You can make good ammo in cheap brass for sure, and the good stuff might really not shoot any better but if my main goal was accuracy I'd start with top notch brass and bullets.
If I wanted it to shoot minute of hog and that was good enough I'd go for the cheap stuff.

 

[Des_Draws]

If you get an adjustable gas block and and a brass catcher, you will save wear and tear on the brass. Some brass lasts longer than others. In 308 ,FC brass shoots quite well but the primer pocket starts to open up and then primers fall out. A drop of super glue in the seam will fix that - if your a cheapskate like me. LC and Winchester last at least 5 reloads
For 6.5 not as many choices. I use Starline Hornady and seller and Beloit
I find best accuracy with Hornady
Have usedHornady brass reloaded three times with very good results.
Main thing is the adjustable gas block
Over gassed semi autos will damage the rim and give nasty bolts swipes

 

[bax]

Consider Lake City 308. It is reasonably cheap and available and it is pretty tough. In my experience primer pockets last quite a while.

 

[Old Corps 8541]

Intended use ?? paper punching/load development **, hunting , or just a new project ? Several have suggested LC brass, I would suggest LCLR brass because there is NO crimped primer to deal with. Also most 1 x LC brass has been fired in machine guns , M240's or M 60's. Just think way over sized chambers and as such will test the construction of your reloading bench when you try to FL size them.
An internet search will produce several places offering M-80 LC 308 brass and a few offering FGMM 1 x brass and maybe LCLR brass.

 

[Franko]

Intended use ?? paper punching/load development **, hunting , or just a new project ? Several have suggested LC brass, I would suggest LCLR brass because there is NO crimped primer to deal with. Also most 1 x LC brass has been fired in machine guns , M240's or M 60's. Just think way over sized chambers and as such will test the construction of your reloading bench when you try to FL size them.
An internet search will produce several places offering M-80 LC 308 brass and a few offering FGMM 1 x brass and maybe LCLR brass.

I went with a bunch of Starline brass I found a good deal on. Thanks for the help.