What determines brass ejection angle/position

Thumper580

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Minuteman
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On my AR 15 the brass ejects at about 4:30PM from the ejection port, very consistent. It's where it always has thrown spent brass. No issues.
On my AR10 308 it's throwing them out at about 1PM from the ejection port. I have an SLR adjustable gas block set to function consistently. Is there anything I can look at to get the AR10 to eject like the AR15 (4:30PM). Or does it really make any difference?
AERO Precision upper and lower, AERO mlok handguard, Craddock Precision barrel 18" (Bartlein 1:11.25) with headspaced JP bolt, Triggertech Diamond trigger.
 
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Try a heavier buffer weight, and a Tubbs 308 recoil spring... retune Adj. GB as needed.

Ultimately, cyclic speed can make a difference.
 
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Ejection pattern can be affected by a number of things. The lip on the extractor, the tension on the extractor, the ejector and the tension on the ejector. On top of all of that, bolt velocity, assuming that everything is within spec.

First tune to get reliable lock back on an empty magazine. Inspect your ejection hardware. Is it time for a bolt rebuild? If not, cheap springs that came in a cheap kit could cause erratic ejection patterns too.

As for springing, yes, you can alter the ejection pattern by altering the bolt velocity with heavier springs; but keep in mind that spring tension has very little to no effect on closed bolt lock time. Go with a spring appropriate for your rifle or a little heavier, but don't go nuts with the spring weight to a point where you're overgassing the rifle to run the heavy spring just to control the ejection pattern. This can lead to a whole different set of problems.
 
Throwing forward usually means it's cycling too fast. Doesn't have to mean unreliable, my old race gun is probably the most reliable AR I've owned and it throws them all forward.

(and nothing is Mil-Spec, nothing is torqued, nothing is staked... I'm a dead man.) ;)


Heavier spring might slow the reward travel. Also speed up the forward travel, might negate the change or make it worse. lol
Turning down the gas should do it. Heavier buffer could/should too as stated.
 
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Throwing forward usually means it's cycling too fast. Doesn't have to mean unreliable, my old race gun is probably the most reliable AR I've owned and it throws them all forward.

(and nothing is Mil-Spec, nothing is torqued, nothing is staked... I'm a dead man.) ;)


Heavier spring might slow the reward travel. Also speed up the forward travel, might negate the change or make it worse. lol
Turning down the gas should do it. Heavier buffer could/should too as stated.
This should be kept in mind. Lots of guys get it in their head that a properly tuned/gassed AR is going to shoot softly. I have one setup like this. Carbine length buffer tube running a standard weight buffer and spring and gassed so that the bolt will lock back on an empty magazine with the weakest ammo that I shoot. It shoots very softly for what it is, but I do have to keep up with some sort of maintenance, even if it's only lubing it every 400 rounds or so to keep it running when it starts to get dirty.

For something that needs to keep running, there's nothing wrong with running a system that requires more gas to run it, although it won't shoot as softly. It will handle being dirty better.

Something along the lines of an H2 buffer, with maybe a bit of a heavier spring will power through crud for a good bit longer than a rifle tuned to shoot as softly as possible.

The term "over gassed" actually refers to a situation where there is insufficient closed bolt lock time. The bolt starts to open too soon. This results in case heads getting beat up or ripped off entirely, or stuck cases (you see this a lot with steel cased ammo).

Generally, you control closed bolt lock time by adjusting the weight of the carrier/buffer and the amount of gas going through the system. You're looking for that happy medium.

This is why i avoid going with heavy springs. In some cases, you can have your rifle's closed bolt lock time right, but have to feed more gas to run the spring. It will give the illusion of being properly tuned (because of the ejection pattern), when in fact, you are over gassed. Springs will have an effect on bolt velocity and ejection pattern, but little to no effect on closed bolt lock time.

I guess the bottom line is that you don't tune for an ejection pattern. Use an in spec buffer (H1 or H2), with a milspec (or close, like sprinco hot white or blue) spring and tune to proper lock back on an empty magazine.

Of course, there's are nuances when you aren't running an adjustable gas block, but the general principal still applies. If you aren't running an adjustable gas block, then you just tune with buffer weight.
 
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Another thing to keep in mind while tuning gas is ; Using the correct ammunition and if loading your own ,making damn certain powder is GAS COMPATIBLE .

Case in point ,MY loads run and run eject sweetly 3-4 O clock ,some brands of ammo 1-3 depending on manufacturer .

Turan 5.56 ammo WON'T operate ANY of MY builds or Stock AR15's ,PERIOD . Powder is WRONG for US gas guns . Loads aren't hateful as far as accuracy goes but it's either Bolt gun or manually operate your AR . I ran a # of them and honestly 0.75-1.25 @165 Yd . A friend gave Me some LC Winchester and those pukes measured out between 2.0-3.5" on average . Needless to say I DON'T use them and am doubtful the cases are worth saving . I've got too many Great cases to worry about MG fodder or scrap .