rifles with tatctical style scopes zeroed at 100...and dial for all the other ranges. Hunting style recticles and scopes still zero in at 100 but add an inch or more (depending on the caliber) above bull so I know I am flat to around 300.
My .223 gets zeroed at 100 and confirmed at 300m (with an ACOG) and my .308 long gun gets windage zeroed at 100m and range zeroed at 500m. Once I have that dope, it goes into Mr. Ballistic Computer to set up my dope card for that altitude. Keep in mind, I live at 6,000 feet and operate between 4-12 thousand so having different zero cards per thousand is really helpful.......... Any-who, just my technique and we all know that much like A$$ holes, every one has one and they all stink from time to time..........
Just for the record...
I usually set my sights for zero on most of my .223 and .308 rifles at 100yds initially. Uses vary...hunting, high power rifle competitions, tactical rilfe competitions, 3-gun.
My Zero for .308 is typically 100 yards, but I will also often set the elevation knob at a 500 yard zero and use hold unders down to 100 yards, and overs out to 700 yards--usually when I am shooting steel or hunting. Very easy with a mil-dot reticle and knobs.
I zero at 400 yards when hunting with a .300RUM, and use the reticle for correction.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I like a 300yd ZERO for real world usage if the zombies come over the hill.
With a 300yd ZERO I can hold center mass and drop that bitch from 0-550yds. So to me it makes since. </div></div>
Need I remind you that zombies can only be killed with a head shot. Don't believe everything you see on TV.
100 yd zero for me. It cuts down on the environmental factors, especially wind. I'll then confirm my comeups from there. You can always set your dope up for maximum point blank range after you get a good solid zero.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Anvil8541</div><div class="ubbcode-body">100 yd zero for me. It cuts down on the environmental factors... </div></div>
100m (Yeah I know, you guys all use yards... Not the Army.)
Like someone pointed out above, it's just easier to zero the rifle and slip the rings to 0. Everything after that is a come up or holdover.
The only difference is when you're using a rifle that can really reach out. I'll use a familiar rifle as an example. If you zero the M107 Barrett .50 Cal at 100m, and you have to engage a target out to 1800m, then you will most likely max out your BDC turret. In this case it is better to zero between 300 and 500 meters.
Well I know I am the odd man out because I use MOA instead of MIL, but given that, I keep a 200 yard zero on a NF with NP-R2 ret. and with my particular rifle/load combo I get +/- 30 min. to 1000yrds from a 200 zero with most weather conditions. It just works perfect for the hit is a hit crowd like me because the scope has 30min of reticle hold over.
No, the scope is still the mk4, but the elevation turret uses baselines, and adjustments are in 1/4 MOA. That's a lot of turning if you zero at 100m and engage at 1800m.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Anvil8541</div><div class="ubbcode-body">100 yd zero for me. It cuts down on the environmental factors, especially wind. I'll then confirm my comeups from there.</div></div>
^^This^^
If hunting or shooting a match a ways from home and you have the ability to check zero, a 100 yard zero can be adjusted quickly. Usually only a few clicks and a couple turns of a screw.
I zero, with my .308 or .243, 1" over at 100 yards. (Using a ballistic program I think that equates to something like 160 yard zero for the .308, might have been 140 though).
Why?
I hunt and most of the areas I hunt in are bush/scrub. The majority of my shots are taken between 100 and 300 yards.
The projectile is still rising at 100, dropping by 200, further drop by 300, especially for the .308.
At lowest and highest points during that distance I am never high or low enough to miss the head/heart on a pig or small dear. That means if I need to shoot in a hurry I don't need to worry about adjusting my aim.
100 yd zero. Confirm windage @200 -300 on dead calm Early morn sunrise or sunset. Your dialin or holdin eitherway i like to start at #1. "100" when im countin
100 meters, but for no better reason then the 100, 200, and 300 meter (as opposed to yard) berms at my range. I was considering taking it up to 300 to prep for competitions, but until I hit my 5 shot group goal, keeping all the practice, and the zero, at 100m.
everything I own is at 100 yds. My hunting rifle (custom Rem 700 7mmSTW) i have a 300 yd zero kept on it. But if you look under the turret cap you would see that is dialed 3MOA up. I have 2 Benchrest rifles too. Both of those have turrets that if dialed all the way down to its zero mark will hit on a 100 yd zero dead on the money. This way, if any distances change (hunting might lead to a farther shot and I want to dial I know where I'm at, or in benchrest some matches are 3,4,5 and 600 and 1000 yds. I can dial whatever distance I want and be dead on the money. Other than my 308 and 7STW all other rifles (tactical and benchrest and hunting guns) have a very similair trajectory and I can learn on all of them together. Farthest span is from a 6.5x47 amd a 6.5x284. Have others but this is what sees life outside the safe.
The 300 yard zero on the 7mmSTW is handy. Things die from 0-500 without much thinking. My STW is also zeroed at 300. Most of the rest are at 100 accept for a 16" 7mm08 I keep zeroed at 200 with a scope I never turn a dial on. I had a 1-4x on a short AR15 that I kept on a 50yd zero for stalking and jumping out of the truck on hogs also. Switching that up to a SS 1-6 and will probably zero that at 100, not sure yet.
Edit:Just realized how old and long this thread is, damn
I think 100 yds is finer. If you have a 40 MOA base or something then you would have to go farther but your wind will probably be more defined. If your using your retical for hold over/under then you can still have your 100yd zero and just have it dialed to where ever you want. That would seem to be the easiest and most accurate way of doing it.