What is your load development process? + Some noob questions.

[iHateRegistrations]

New re-loader here. I'd like to read people’s opinions on load development process. There is plenty of info out there on how to reload, but as much about what to reload.

I am reloading .223 for a 20“ AR, to be used at 300m and 600m.

The traditional 50 shot test seems like a waste of ammo to me. My logic is, I need to make ammo that is better than factory ammo in every way. So do I really care about potential precision/velocity nodes that are 300fps below what I get with factory ammo? At that point, I’m trading velocity for group size, rather than making an all-around better round.

If I’m not mistaken, some 100y benchrest shooters don’t care so much about being on the low side of velocities as there is not that much wind at 100y. But since I’m looking to shoot at 600m, I feel like my velocity should be close to what factory ammo delivers and with better ES and overall grouping. Or maybe a maximum of 100fps below typical factory, as an acceptable trade for an exceptionally good node. So I looked into some of the 10 shot load development ideas to save time and ammo.

Naturally, there was a fear of blowing my face off, so I figured, I’m just going to go „touch“ max pressure with a few different powders and bullets first to get over it. Ended up loading 10-12 rounds going from min to max charge with 0.2gr increments. I did that with 3 different component combos, and just shot them all over a Magneto Speed, while checking each piece of brass. I also loaded 5 rounds at a randomly selected charges, about 80% of the way to the max, to see what kind of SD/ES I’m getting.

Everything went well, i got to velocities comparable to factory loads, with no signs of over-pressure on the brass or primers. I also measured better concentricity and ES, compared factory ammo.

So now that those first baby steps are over, it’s time to try and make my first good load and I’m not sure how to progress.

One method suggested shooting the 10 rounds over a chrony and look for a plateau of velocity. So I shot all my previously mentioned rounds over a Magneto Speed, but I didn't find any „flat spots“ anywhere close to the max charge. Another method suggested that shoot the 10 rounds at 200-300m and look for consistency in point of impact across multiple charge weights. But, I didn’t do that due to some weather issues.

So where do I go from here?

Currently, my plan is to load 4 sets of 5 rounds, from max charge, and down to - 0.8gr. Then shoot groups at 300m with the Magneto Speed attached and see what I get. The idea is that I would have ES/SD data, and groups at 300 at the same time. From what I can tell, Magneto Speed opens up my groups about 20%, but the effect should be the same for all the groups. After that, ether just pick the best group, or pick the best ES, and try that load again at different seating depts (currently, I just load everything to SAMI max).

Is this a good plan? Should I just shoot the groups at 300 without the Magneto Speed and only care about what the target says? Or only care about ES and count on being able to tune the group size afterwards?

What is your development process?


Two extra questions:

Is developing with virgin brass pointless? I'm using Lapua virgin brass. I didn't have any good fire-formed brass, plus, I wanted to skimp on some of the reloading tools since I was short on cash at the time. So I just bought 200pcs of new Lapua brass, so I could have good consistent brass that I only have to mandrel expand as the only prep. In the future, I plan to bump size with a FL sizer. Would the load I develop shoot completely differently from fire-formed brass and all of this is pointless till a get a bunch of quality resided brass?

Is Lapua brass pointless for an AR? Opinions seem split on this with most people saying that it’s a waste of money, due to brass being chewed up. My once fired cases seem in excellent shape, I see no damage from the extractor or anything else. I also bought 100pcs of Starline as a cheaper alternative.

Thanks.

 

[Seymour Fish]

New re-loader here. I'd like to read people’s opinions on load development process. There is plenty of info out there on how to reload, but as much about what to reload.
Full-length resizing. Simple one shot per charge wt ladder, in 0.2 gr increments, weighed on a good scale. No magnetospeed and forget the flat spot notion. Start with clean bore and burn 3-4 fouling shots, then on to the test. Hold same POA each shot. Mark and number each POI on a spare target at the bench. Find node or two, comprised of at least 3 shots. Load to the middle of the node. You are done
I am reloading .223 for a 20“ AR, to be used at 300m and 600m.

The traditional 50 shot test seems like a waste of ammo to me. My logic is, I need to make ammo that is better than factory ammo in every way. So do I really care about potential precision/velocity nodes that are 300fps below what I get with factory ammo? At that point, I’m trading velocity for group size, rather than making an all-around better round.

If I’m not mistaken, some 100y benchrest shooters don’t care so much about being on the low side of velocities as there is not that much wind at 100y. But since I’m looking to shoot at 600m, I feel like my velocity should be close to what factory ammo delivers and with better ES and overall grouping. Or maybe a maximum of 100fps below typical factory, as an acceptable trade for an exceptionally good node. So I looked into some of the 10 shot load development ideas to save time and ammo.

Naturally, there was a fear of blowing my face off, so I figured, I’m just going to go „touch“ max pressure with a few different powders and bullets first to get over it. Ended up loading 10-12 rounds going from min to max charge with 0.2gr increments. I did that with 3 different component combos, and just shot them all over a Magneto Speed, while checking each piece of brass. I also loaded 5 rounds at a randomly selected charges, about 80% of the way to the max, to see what kind of SD/ES I’m getting.

Everything went well, i got to velocities comparable to factory loads, with no signs of over-pressure on the brass or primers. I also measured better concentricity and ES, compared factory ammo.

So now that those first baby steps are over, it’s time to try and make my first good load and I’m not sure how to progress.

One method suggested shooting the 10 rounds over a chrony and look for a plateau of velocity. So I shot all my previously mentioned rounds over a Magneto Speed, but I didn't find any „flat spots“ anywhere close to the max charge. Another method suggested that shoot the 10 rounds at 200-300m and look for consistency in point of impact across multiple charge weights. But, I didn’t do that due to some weather issues.

So where do I go from here?

Currently, my plan is to load 4 sets of 5 rounds, from max charge, and down to - 0.8gr. Then shoot groups at 300m with the Magneto Speed attached and see what I get. The idea is that I would have ES/SD data, and groups at 300 at the same time. From what I can tell, Magneto Speed opens up my groups about 20%, but the effect should be the same for all the groups. After that, ether just pick the best group, or pick the best ES, and try that load again at different seating depts (currently, I just load everything to SAMI max).

Is this a good plan? Should I just shoot the groups at 300 without the Magneto Speed and only care about what the target says? Or only care about ES and count on being able to tune the group size afterwards?

What is your development process?


Two extra questions:

Is developing with virgin brass pointless? I'm using Lapua virgin brass. I didn't have any good fire-formed brass, plus, I wanted to skimp on some of the reloading tools since I was short on cash at the time. So I just bought 200pcs of new Lapua brass, so I could have good consistent brass that I only have to mandrel expand as the only prep. In the future, I plan to bump size with a FL sizer. Would the load I develop shoot completely differently from fire-formed brass and all of this is pointless till a get a bunch of quality resided brass?

Is Lapua brass pointless for an AR? Opinions seem split on this with most people saying that it’s a waste of money, due to brass being chewed up. My once fired cases seem in excellent shape, I see no damage from the extractor or anything else. I also bought 100pcs of Starline as a cheaper alternative.

Thanks.

 

[marchboom]

One thing I don't do is load up ammo if I'm not going to use it in a reasonable time (approx 2-3 months). After shooting I used to do all the brass prep so it will be ready when I want to load up some ammo for whatever. Now I just bag the fired cases and start the prep when I determine what I want it for and it will be used within a few months.

The reason? In the past I have loaded up too much ammo a certain way only to change the method(s) and/or components since the last loading. Now I was stuck with ammo that wasn't in line with my "new & improved" way of loading. Even though the previously loaded ammo would work just fine I would rather use the "latest & greatest" ammo that I've just loaded.

 

[max-x]

Your velocity profile run-in method is a good idea. Pick where you sort of want to be for speed and then work around there for accuracy. Developing at 300yd is a good standard.

Don't get too hung up about the velocity readouts when load developing. Depending on how you're shooting, recoil management can affect ES/SD and will cause tail chasing. There is a certain amount of uncertainty that is cause by the driver which manifests in the data when measured accurately.

Load 5 round groups in your target velocity range charge weight. Something like four 0.2gr steps below, and one above. Shoot as you will in competition (no attached chrono). If you find a load that shoots the same at +0.2 as -0.2 at 300 yards, you're about there. That will put you in a usable speed node. (Everyone seems to like going pedal to the metal though).

After that, shoot 10 shot seating depths of 0.02 0.04 and 0.06 off. One of those may show up as 'better' in terms of vertical dispersion.

Then finally go back and chrono where things are at, not shooting for groups. Focus on hold consistency.

Confirm vertical at 600 yd.

I think that there is a lot of statistical variation in data that gets 'analyzed' as fact, when in reality it reflects the nature of instrument/ environmental/ driver micro-errors. Lots of data will cause analysis paralysis quickly.