Gunsmithing What kind of anti-seize lub to use

[Jeff in TX]

Yesterday I took my new rifle built by Chad at LongRifles Inc to the range. It shot lights out. However went I went to remove the suppressor it had seized to the brake and the brake unscrewed from the barrel instead of the suppressor. Thank goodness I brought the thread protector cap. I had a dickens of a time last night getting the suppressor unscrewed from the brake. I was successful without any damage to either part. I now know I need to use some anti-seize lube, my question is what kind?

Also, my suppressor is the break down type which means my end caps unscrew. I’m thinking I should only use the anti-seize lube on the brake threads for the suppressor attachment. Thoughts?

 

[ugsly]

You should always use antisieze for your suppressor. I just put a dab on and wipe it around the threads and roll. Whats best? Anything is better then nothing.

Kc

 

[KYS]

Use a copper based anti seize so that it does not burn off nearly as quick as a chemical based lube.

On another note I would ask why Chad did not secure your brake to the threads…. had that been secured with the proper torque and Rockset or Loctite it would not have come undone.

 

[Jeff in TX]

Use a copper based anti seize so that it does not burn off nearly as quick as a chemical based lube.

On another note I would ask why Chad did not secure your brake to the threads…. had that been secured with the proper torque and Rockset or Loctite it would not have come undone.

Chad didn't do the brake work. The new brake came with suppressor build which I recieved right after the build. However that will be a conversation for my local smith who timed and attached the brake.

 

[KYS]

That makes more sense then. I would definitely be a little upset with whoever put that on. They did not torque properly nor did they use a bonding agent for added strength.

Who was the local smith?

 

[Jeff in TX]

That makes more sense then. I would definitely be a little upset with whoever put that on. They did not torque properly nor did they use a bonding agent for added strength.

Who was the local smith?

I'll keep the smith out it, I'll be stopping by later today to chat and correct the issue. What type of loctite would you recommend.

 

[LRI]

Quote Originally Posted by KYS View Post
Use a copper based anti seize so that it does not burn off nearly as quick as a chemical based lube.

On another note I would ask why Chad did not secure your brake to the threads…. had that been secured with the proper torque and Rockset or Loctite it would not have come undone.


Chad didn't do the brake work. The new brake came with suppressor build which I received right after the build. However that will be a conversation for my local smith who timed and attached the brake.

-Just ensuring everyone saw this.


C.


-Note:

Regarding your question. John stumbled upon some antiseize that is pretty cool stuff. It's in "chapstick" form. Both the copper and the silvery stuff are available. All the benefits with 1/10th of the mess. They also offer loctite this way too. I've been buying it through Fastenal.

Rockset seems to be the ticket these days. Although I've seen it fail too on M-4's. One of our neighbors has developed some rather clever suppressors and they ran into issues with the Rockset when going "full throttle". That said you throw enough heat at anything and its going to chit the bed eventually. It's not a crack at the rockset product, it just has to be used for the correct application. FWIW they also ran into some ion bonding issues where the cans literally welded themselves to the QD brakes. It appears though that they cracked the nut and things are working really well now. Rumors are about that they've been testing them on M249's and M240's. Don't know the results though.


It would seem to me that if you want a brake attached permanently your left with essentially two choices. A cross pin of some kind or a spot of weld place somewhere innocuously.



OP, glad the rifle is shooting well for you!

 

[Delta4-3]

I do a small rosette weld on the bottom and re finish it to where it is not noticeable. If I ever want it off, I just drill it out.

 

[Bradu]

Been using the chapstick style antiseize and loctite for a while now as a mechanic and the stuff is pretty handy. THe loctite does seem to take longer to setup than the bottled stuff for some reason but it's a lot cleaner.

 

[Jeff in TX]

Who makes and where to get the chap stick style anti-seize

 

[Sean the Nailer]

Go here: Loctite QuickStix 248 Threadlocker Stick, Medium Strength/Removable; 9GM [PRICE is per TUBE]: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

to see examples of these products for sale: as they are quite handy, instead of the bottles and tubs of the past.

 

[LRI]

Who makes and where to get the chap stick style anti-seize

Regarding your question. John stumbled upon some antiseize that is pretty cool stuff. It's in "chapstick" form. Both the copper and the silvery stuff are available. All the benefits with 1/10th of the mess. They also offer loctite this way too. I've been buying it through Fastenal.

Jeff, see above buddy!

 

[Wintermute]

oddly enough, in high temperature situations (like exhaust manifold bolts), liquid Maalox (yeah, the over the counter antacid/indigestion medication) works wonderfully well.

--Wintermute

 

[LRI]

Aluminum and magnesium hydroxide. The idea is to keep the two parent metals separated by a dissimilar metal. In this case a non ferrous one.

Werks like a champ!

 

[Nate O.]

Who makes and where to get the chap stick style anti-seize

If you've got the big bottle, just put a dab on a Q-tip and work it a little at a time.

 

[biner626]

Aluminum and magnesium hydroxide. The idea is to keep the two parent metals separated by a dissimilar metal. In this case a non ferrous one.

Werks like a champ!

Did Chad just say Maalox works? LOL

 

[Wintermute]

yes he did . I've been using it on vintage cars and race cars for years for exhaust manifold bolts. Works better than any of the anti-seize I've used from the auto stores. I've taken exhaust manifold bolts out of Ford y-blocks that have run for thousands of miles since they were installed with Maalox on the bolts and the threads are nice and shiny, no rust and they came out without a fight.

--Wintermute