I am trying to find a lathe that i can buy that will allow me to start doing more on my rifles. i know that the more you spend the better you get but what is the minimum for me to be looking for. i want to make sure i get one that will allow me to do projects without going with way more machine then i need. what should i be looking for so that i can work on my barrels-threading and chambering? what size?
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Gunsmithing what lathe to start with
- Thread starter tjonh2001
- Start date
Re: what lathe to start with
To keep it under a grand your looking at a 9 or 10" swing x 20-36" CTC.
Look on craiglist or kijiji, i've seen many a lathe for hundreds off simply because they wanted something bigger 6months after buying..
As always, read reviews and local dealers if possible.
To keep it under a grand your looking at a 9 or 10" swing x 20-36" CTC.
Look on craiglist or kijiji, i've seen many a lathe for hundreds off simply because they wanted something bigger 6months after buying..
As always, read reviews and local dealers if possible.
Re: what lathe to start with
I prefer a 10 X 40 with enough space through the headstock to pass a heavy barrel. Standard gears and a steady rest are points for me. Sooner or later I would get an interchangable tool post & holders.
I prefer a 10 X 40 with enough space through the headstock to pass a heavy barrel. Standard gears and a steady rest are points for me. Sooner or later I would get an interchangable tool post & holders.
Re: what lathe to start with
I have a 10x40 it will seem like a big machine for what you will be working on but thats about the best step up from a bench top lathe to get most of the options and capability you will want and need. I would look for one with a foot brake and coolant system. Most of the smaller table tops you look at that you would think would be big enough only have a 20mm spindle thru hole and isn't hardly big enough for heavy style barrels. And most of the time you can pick up a 10x40 cheap if you look around their is tons of machinery auction house sights. I picked mine up for $350. but the guy didn't realy know what he had the steady rest and threading gears where still in the under bead storage box still wraped in waxed paper in cosmoline.
I have a 10x40 it will seem like a big machine for what you will be working on but thats about the best step up from a bench top lathe to get most of the options and capability you will want and need. I would look for one with a foot brake and coolant system. Most of the smaller table tops you look at that you would think would be big enough only have a 20mm spindle thru hole and isn't hardly big enough for heavy style barrels. And most of the time you can pick up a 10x40 cheap if you look around their is tons of machinery auction house sights. I picked mine up for $350. but the guy didn't realy know what he had the steady rest and threading gears where still in the under bead storage box still wraped in waxed paper in cosmoline.
Re: what lathe to start with
I have chambered some very accurate rifles with an Atlas-Craftsman 12x36 lathe made in 1938 and weights ~ 400 pounds, and cost ~$400. Someone has replaced the Babbitt bearings with Timken bearings, and did it right.
It is slow work.
1/5 horse power is not the limitation.
The limit is the lack of stiffness.
Try to take off .010" in a cut.
Only .005" came off.
Make another cut without changing the cross feed or compound.
Only .003" comes off.
Just keep fooling with it, and an accurate and smooth cut can be made.
I put a Shilen select match barrel on a Sav99 in 6mmBR with that lathe and it shoots great.
I put a Pac Nor barrel on a Win pre 64 M70 in 270 with that lathe and it shoots great.
So why did I but a new 1200 pound lathe this year?
I am sick of messing with incremental cuts.
I am sick of the hole thorough the spindle is too small, so everything has to be done in the steady rest.
I am sick of the change gears.
-------------------------
I had a 1967 Clausing 5914 12x36 lathe that weighed 1200 pounds and had 3 hp 3 phase 440VAC that I converted to 220VAC 3 phase and ran off a converter. I paid $800 at auction.
Why did I get rid of it?
I was sick of working on it.
The tail stock ram hole was worn, so the ram was loose.
The hydraulic control on the variable speed would not stay put.
The lathe was noisy.
The cross feed and compound that complicated thrust bearing assemblies that contributed to backlash.
The foot brake stopped working years ago.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Why did I buy a new PM1236 this year?
I got quiet.
I got accurate and fast.
I got a foot brake that works.
I got DRO
http://www.machinetoolonline.com/PM1236.html
I got a foot brake that works.
I have chambered some very accurate rifles with an Atlas-Craftsman 12x36 lathe made in 1938 and weights ~ 400 pounds, and cost ~$400. Someone has replaced the Babbitt bearings with Timken bearings, and did it right.
It is slow work.
1/5 horse power is not the limitation.
The limit is the lack of stiffness.
Try to take off .010" in a cut.
Only .005" came off.
Make another cut without changing the cross feed or compound.
Only .003" comes off.
Just keep fooling with it, and an accurate and smooth cut can be made.
I put a Shilen select match barrel on a Sav99 in 6mmBR with that lathe and it shoots great.
I put a Pac Nor barrel on a Win pre 64 M70 in 270 with that lathe and it shoots great.
So why did I but a new 1200 pound lathe this year?
I am sick of messing with incremental cuts.
I am sick of the hole thorough the spindle is too small, so everything has to be done in the steady rest.
I am sick of the change gears.
-------------------------
I had a 1967 Clausing 5914 12x36 lathe that weighed 1200 pounds and had 3 hp 3 phase 440VAC that I converted to 220VAC 3 phase and ran off a converter. I paid $800 at auction.
Why did I get rid of it?
I was sick of working on it.
The tail stock ram hole was worn, so the ram was loose.
The hydraulic control on the variable speed would not stay put.
The lathe was noisy.
The cross feed and compound that complicated thrust bearing assemblies that contributed to backlash.
The foot brake stopped working years ago.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Why did I buy a new PM1236 this year?
I got quiet.
I got accurate and fast.
I got a foot brake that works.
I got DRO
http://www.machinetoolonline.com/PM1236.html
I got a foot brake that works.
Re: what lathe to start with
Check out Ebay, there is a lot of used lathes, mills,ect. Some great deals if you are close enough to pick up, else freight may be more than cost of lathe, good luck
Check out Ebay, there is a lot of used lathes, mills,ect. Some great deals if you are close enough to pick up, else freight may be more than cost of lathe, good luck
Re: what lathe to start with
Watch out for the Ebay gray over spray paint jobs.
Watch out for lathes on Ebay that cost more to ship than the lathe.
Pay for shipping insurance, as the shipper only pays 10 cents a pound on used machinery they wreck. A cast iron lathe that tips over in shipping usually just breaks or bends all the handles.
Watch out for the Ebay gray over spray paint jobs.
Watch out for lathes on Ebay that cost more to ship than the lathe.
Pay for shipping insurance, as the shipper only pays 10 cents a pound on used machinery they wreck. A cast iron lathe that tips over in shipping usually just breaks or bends all the handles.
Re: what lathe to start with
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bioyatexas</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Jet makes some bad ass lathes and mills and stuff </div></div>
I agree with this guy. If you can find a 8 or 10" Monarch Toolroom Lathe, and a Bridgeport used or a good price, there's simply nothing better for small metalwork. Aside from that Jet makes some of the better affordable small shop machines.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bioyatexas</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Jet makes some bad ass lathes and mills and stuff </div></div>
I agree with this guy. If you can find a 8 or 10" Monarch Toolroom Lathe, and a Bridgeport used or a good price, there's simply nothing better for small metalwork. Aside from that Jet makes some of the better affordable small shop machines.
Re: what lathe to start with
This is a common thread/ question. Try the search function and you will get loads of info. You also need to give us some idea. New, used, American, Taiwan, Chinese,British, power available, flooring that supports it, logistics of unloading, etc. I am on my second lathe, outgrew the first one in short order. Lesson learned. Is it going to be for your own work or will work into work for others? PM me and I will give you my personal take on things. Happy chip making
This is a common thread/ question. Try the search function and you will get loads of info. You also need to give us some idea. New, used, American, Taiwan, Chinese,British, power available, flooring that supports it, logistics of unloading, etc. I am on my second lathe, outgrew the first one in short order. Lesson learned. Is it going to be for your own work or will work into work for others? PM me and I will give you my personal take on things. Happy chip making
Re: what lathe to start with
so since I am a newbee is it possible to get a lathe i can put in my basement? Have 24 stairs and great floor. Straight shot down to. Thanks for the help.
John
so since I am a newbee is it possible to get a lathe i can put in my basement? Have 24 stairs and great floor. Straight shot down to. Thanks for the help.
John
Re: what lathe to start with
Two of us got a 800 pound gunsafe down the stairs and into the basement.
We drove his big 4WD truck with camper into the yard, and tied a rope onto the safe. As the truck inched forward, the safe slid down the stairs.
You can take the Lathe stand off to make it lighter and smaller for the trip.
You can take the tailstock off.
You can take the chuck off.
But if you remove the carriage, it is complicated.
But if you remove the headstock, it may not go back on straight.
Two of us got a 800 pound gunsafe down the stairs and into the basement.
We drove his big 4WD truck with camper into the yard, and tied a rope onto the safe. As the truck inched forward, the safe slid down the stairs.
You can take the Lathe stand off to make it lighter and smaller for the trip.
You can take the tailstock off.
You can take the chuck off.
But if you remove the carriage, it is complicated.
But if you remove the headstock, it may not go back on straight.
Re: what lathe to start with
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Victor N TN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I prefer a 10 X 40 with enough space through the headstock to pass a heavy barrel. Standard gears and a steady rest are points for me. Sooner or later I would get an interchangable tool post & holders. </div></div>
+1
A 1.35" or so hole through your headstock makes a barrel a much easier job. Some of the really cheap quick change tool posts work amazingly well. I've worked on Jet, South Bend, and even Enco lathes with good results. The less expensive ones usually have a few idiosyncrasies to learn, but are fine once you get to know them.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Victor N TN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I prefer a 10 X 40 with enough space through the headstock to pass a heavy barrel. Standard gears and a steady rest are points for me. Sooner or later I would get an interchangable tool post & holders. </div></div>
+1
A 1.35" or so hole through your headstock makes a barrel a much easier job. Some of the really cheap quick change tool posts work amazingly well. I've worked on Jet, South Bend, and even Enco lathes with good results. The less expensive ones usually have a few idiosyncrasies to learn, but are fine once you get to know them.
Re: what lathe to start with
as for moving the thing or unloading it i do have a bobcat at the house and can bring in a forklift if needed. i want to be able to do my own gunsmithing. i am thinking of a lathe around 12x36. i have been looking hard at a new jet.
as for moving the thing or unloading it i do have a bobcat at the house and can bring in a forklift if needed. i want to be able to do my own gunsmithing. i am thinking of a lathe around 12x36. i have been looking hard at a new jet.
Re: what lathe to start with
I bought the Grizzly 4003G
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Gunsmith-s-Bench-Top-Lathe-with-Stand/G4003G
I have learned much using it. I figure my next purchase will be a mill. I was thinking of a heavier lathe but have decided against it. This one will do fine. I have built one rifle and threaded 4 barrels for silencers. It takes a lot of practice on things you have to willing to ruin. You have to accept help willingly and listen carefully. Nuggets of gold on machining setup and execution can be had in a brief conversation.
I bought the Grizzly 4003G
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Gunsmith-s-Bench-Top-Lathe-with-Stand/G4003G
I have learned much using it. I figure my next purchase will be a mill. I was thinking of a heavier lathe but have decided against it. This one will do fine. I have built one rifle and threaded 4 barrels for silencers. It takes a lot of practice on things you have to willing to ruin. You have to accept help willingly and listen carefully. Nuggets of gold on machining setup and execution can be had in a brief conversation.
Re: what lathe to start with
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: crumpmd</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I bought the Grizzly 4003G
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Gunsmith-s-Bench-Top-Lathe-with-Stand/G4003G
I have learned much using it. I figure my next purchase will be a mill. I was thinking of a heavier lathe but have decided against it. This one will do fine. I have built one rifle and threaded 4 barrels for silencers. It takes a lot of practice on things you have to willing to ruin. You have to accept help willingly and listen carefully. Nuggets of gold on machining setup and execution can be had in a brief conversation. </div></div>
Well spoken words crump
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: crumpmd</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I bought the Grizzly 4003G
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Gunsmith-s-Bench-Top-Lathe-with-Stand/G4003G
I have learned much using it. I figure my next purchase will be a mill. I was thinking of a heavier lathe but have decided against it. This one will do fine. I have built one rifle and threaded 4 barrels for silencers. It takes a lot of practice on things you have to willing to ruin. You have to accept help willingly and listen carefully. Nuggets of gold on machining setup and execution can be had in a brief conversation. </div></div>
Well spoken words crump
Re: what lathe to start with
In the past 10 years, I have purchased a small 3-in-1 import, spent years teaching myself to machine, enrolled in the local tech college for machining (one class left), and started a professional career as a machinist. My most recent change has been to start working as a machinist in the firearms industry. After my experience operating a number of quality machines, I am preparing to scrub up my 3-in-1 and sell it.
If, with that experience, I were in the market to tool up, I would invest (perhaps with a little bending-over-backwards) in a used quality machine with a quick-change gearbox, a spindle throat diameter sufficient for any barrel I would ever want to work on, and a headstock that is short enough to support both ends of the barrel in a chuck and spider without an extension. The last point is a convenience, not a necessity.
One oft-forgotten cost factor to remember is the cost of tooling. Your lathe cutting bits, coolant/cutting oil, reamers, chucks, DRO, measuring instruments, barrel-fitting tools, etc will probably double the startup cost of a reasonable used machine.
If you end up with a lighter machine that mounts to a tall stand, you can improve its performance and rigidity by reinforcing the base or replacing it with, say, a poured concrete base, as the US Gov't. recommended for small shops contributing to the war effort in WWII.
In the past 10 years, I have purchased a small 3-in-1 import, spent years teaching myself to machine, enrolled in the local tech college for machining (one class left), and started a professional career as a machinist. My most recent change has been to start working as a machinist in the firearms industry. After my experience operating a number of quality machines, I am preparing to scrub up my 3-in-1 and sell it.
If, with that experience, I were in the market to tool up, I would invest (perhaps with a little bending-over-backwards) in a used quality machine with a quick-change gearbox, a spindle throat diameter sufficient for any barrel I would ever want to work on, and a headstock that is short enough to support both ends of the barrel in a chuck and spider without an extension. The last point is a convenience, not a necessity.
One oft-forgotten cost factor to remember is the cost of tooling. Your lathe cutting bits, coolant/cutting oil, reamers, chucks, DRO, measuring instruments, barrel-fitting tools, etc will probably double the startup cost of a reasonable used machine.
If you end up with a lighter machine that mounts to a tall stand, you can improve its performance and rigidity by reinforcing the base or replacing it with, say, a poured concrete base, as the US Gov't. recommended for small shops contributing to the war effort in WWII.
Re: what lathe to start with
J nixon So what machines do you recomend? What are the ones that meet all your criteria?
I am very interested.
have been thinking about getting a lathe and a mill for a while, to start to do all my own work. but have no experiance what so ever machineing.
I plan on takeing classes, and reading everything I can.
J nixon So what machines do you recomend? What are the ones that meet all your criteria?
I am very interested.
have been thinking about getting a lathe and a mill for a while, to start to do all my own work. but have no experiance what so ever machineing.
I plan on takeing classes, and reading everything I can.
Re: what lathe to start with
i would keep an eye on ebay. Personally i would look for a south bend heavy 10. they often go on ebay for under 5000 which is a bit above the budget that you stated but there very nice lathes
i would keep an eye on ebay. Personally i would look for a south bend heavy 10. they often go on ebay for under 5000 which is a bit above the budget that you stated but there very nice lathes
Re: what lathe to start with
Well I inherited my father's machine shop including two lathes a vertical knee mill. Any online or DVD and book based gunsmithing classes that are worth spit? I actually worked as a machinist with my pop years ago but almost exclusively with a mill, not lathe, and making high tolerance onsey-twosey parts for electron microscopes so I'm not sure if that would translate at all to working on barrels and receivers -- but who knows. Anyway, anyone that could point me in the direction of some resources to get started would be appreciated.
Well I inherited my father's machine shop including two lathes a vertical knee mill. Any online or DVD and book based gunsmithing classes that are worth spit? I actually worked as a machinist with my pop years ago but almost exclusively with a mill, not lathe, and making high tolerance onsey-twosey parts for electron microscopes so I'm not sure if that would translate at all to working on barrels and receivers -- but who knows. Anyway, anyone that could point me in the direction of some resources to get started would be appreciated.
Re: what lathe to start with
rippit- if I were looking for something to put in my garage, I would like something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/BEAUTIFUL-SOUTH-BEND...=item1c0e515c1e
South Bend, Monarch, Clausing, LeBlond, Hardinge, and other "old American Iron" machines are worth a look. There are plenty of quality import machines that would fit the bill but part availability and support are rare enough due to age without worrying about the foreign factor.
To narrow it down, look for a machine with a large enough spindle throat to pass any barrel through you would want to work on. A center-to-center length that accommodates your max barrel length is also important. If you plan on contouring barrels, a taper attachment would be important. A quick change gearbox and the ability to cut 16, 18, 20, 24, 28, 32 tpi threads, etc is necessary. A self-centering 3 or 6 jaw chuck and an independent 4-jaw are necessary.
As far as mills are concerned, you can't go wrong with a tight bridgeport and a kurt vise.
A mill and lathe that you can retrofit a DRO to will make you a very spoiled machinist. : )
Cartman- "high-precision onesy-twosey" is a good mentality to have in this work! I recommend any method of learning that maximizes hands-on experience. I have found good machine tool textbooks on amazon and local bookstores. Walker's "Machining Fundamentals" is the textbook I used in school and one I recommend.
http://www.amazon.com/Machining-Fundamen...2731&sr=8-2
rippit- if I were looking for something to put in my garage, I would like something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/BEAUTIFUL-SOUTH-BEND...=item1c0e515c1e
South Bend, Monarch, Clausing, LeBlond, Hardinge, and other "old American Iron" machines are worth a look. There are plenty of quality import machines that would fit the bill but part availability and support are rare enough due to age without worrying about the foreign factor.
To narrow it down, look for a machine with a large enough spindle throat to pass any barrel through you would want to work on. A center-to-center length that accommodates your max barrel length is also important. If you plan on contouring barrels, a taper attachment would be important. A quick change gearbox and the ability to cut 16, 18, 20, 24, 28, 32 tpi threads, etc is necessary. A self-centering 3 or 6 jaw chuck and an independent 4-jaw are necessary.
As far as mills are concerned, you can't go wrong with a tight bridgeport and a kurt vise.
A mill and lathe that you can retrofit a DRO to will make you a very spoiled machinist. : )
Cartman- "high-precision onesy-twosey" is a good mentality to have in this work! I recommend any method of learning that maximizes hands-on experience. I have found good machine tool textbooks on amazon and local bookstores. Walker's "Machining Fundamentals" is the textbook I used in school and one I recommend.
http://www.amazon.com/Machining-Fundamen...2731&sr=8-2
Re: what lathe to start with
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cartman</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I actually worked as a machinist with my pop years ago but almost exclusively with a mill, not lathe, and making high tolerance onsey-twosey parts for electron microscopes so I'm not sure if that would translate at all to working on barrels and receivers -- but who knows. </div></div>
I had a lawn mowing biz when I was 12 - 14 years old.
The lawn mowing pattern is similar to the milling pattern, but instead of raking the cut grass, I vacuum the steel chips.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cartman</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I actually worked as a machinist with my pop years ago but almost exclusively with a mill, not lathe, and making high tolerance onsey-twosey parts for electron microscopes so I'm not sure if that would translate at all to working on barrels and receivers -- but who knows. </div></div>
I had a lawn mowing biz when I was 12 - 14 years old.
The lawn mowing pattern is similar to the milling pattern, but instead of raking the cut grass, I vacuum the steel chips.
Re: what lathe to start with
Here's a vote for (acckkk) Taiwanese (not Chinese, mind you) new tooling. If it's just for the guy working his own stuff, a $4K Grizzly or ENCO 13/40 lathe is just the ticket and it's nice to have these 3000lb packages deliverd to your door. With proper 4 or 6 jaw chucks and indicators, you should be capable of .0005 tolerances, and I don't care what anyone says, that's pretty good. Just make certain you go through proper machine setup.
Good arguments can be made about havine a 3 phase vs a single phase motor to improve smoothness of cut, and if you don't have 3 phase power in your shop you'll need to drop another 5-6 bills on a good ROTARY (not static) phase converter.
I was right where you are about 15 years ago and discoverd the seedy underbelly of the used machine tool market. I rapidly came to the conclusion that it was rare to find a used "Quality Name" machine that didn't have some significant problem. I gambled that new manufacture Taiwanese gear would fill my needs, and so far, I've been right and haven't looked back.
Good Luck,
Wes
Here's a vote for (acckkk) Taiwanese (not Chinese, mind you) new tooling. If it's just for the guy working his own stuff, a $4K Grizzly or ENCO 13/40 lathe is just the ticket and it's nice to have these 3000lb packages deliverd to your door. With proper 4 or 6 jaw chucks and indicators, you should be capable of .0005 tolerances, and I don't care what anyone says, that's pretty good. Just make certain you go through proper machine setup.
Good arguments can be made about havine a 3 phase vs a single phase motor to improve smoothness of cut, and if you don't have 3 phase power in your shop you'll need to drop another 5-6 bills on a good ROTARY (not static) phase converter.
I was right where you are about 15 years ago and discoverd the seedy underbelly of the used machine tool market. I rapidly came to the conclusion that it was rare to find a used "Quality Name" machine that didn't have some significant problem. I gambled that new manufacture Taiwanese gear would fill my needs, and so far, I've been right and haven't looked back.
Good Luck,
Wes
Re: what lathe to start with
Here is a super lathe if you can find one in descent shape. South Bend 10L(heavy 10) longbed. 10" swing and 34ish" between centers. 1 3/8" spindle bore. Black Hills State College had 3 of them they sold a yr ago last May along with a 10K and a 13.5" or 14". All were in great shape as far as the bed, gears etc were concerned.A few minor dents/dings but nothing of any significance in on the ways. Mine here had the belt tension handle broke off as all of these were on the 2nd floor and had to be taken down stairs or out a 2nd story window. Had Stelter's in New Leipzig weld the handle and I repainted it and you cannot tell it was broke.Paint made them look more used then they were. First 10L with no steady or faceplate brought $1400 and I thought the most backlash of the 3. Next I run to $1800, it did not have the D1-4 camlock spindle. This one had a bit more wear on compound but had additional 10" faceplate and 2 follow rests with 1 being new. 3 and 4 jaw chucks, drive plate, the good steady rest. $1875 w/tax and I sold the used follow rest for $140. IIRC correctly it was made in '85. I did paint the cabinet as they had a sticker on it and it peeled some of the paint off when I removed it. The 10K which is like the link pictured above was excellent except for carriage crossfeed handle got broke in moving it to auction site. It brought $1100. Comparable 10L's on Ebay are fetching $4000ish with same tooling. The 10K is not really a good gunsmith lathe unless you do everything between centers. They only have about a 1" spindle bore but some may have been made larger????
Another nice lathe which I would love to get ahold of is an Emco(NOT Enco) Maximat Super 11. They are only 26" centers but a super hobby lathe and you can find one occassionally on Ebay for $4000 or less. Watch the Variable speed Clausings as they have issues with that. Alot of great older American made iron can be had if you are in no real big hurry and keep checking. They sold a Jet this summer in Mandan @ the Implement dealer that went out of business south of main about midway across from that cafe I cannot remember the name of. It looked good in pics but having 2 I didn't drive up to see what it brought.
Otherwise the Kent, Grizzly or Birmingham would be my choice. Same as some of the Jet models only with different colored paint. You will pay money for the Jet name!!! I had a "Precision" from Harbor Freight that was less accurate than my Craftsman late model 12x36. Also the Central Machinery, Enco's, etc are the bottom end but come from the same Chicom shithole.
Be patient and watch the Bismarck Finder and local auctions. They show up frequently and you might get lucky. There is a guy around Carrington or north of there that deals in used lathes etc but I cannot remember his name or exact town. Shipping can be a killer buying online etc. Easy to get $1000+ tied into a machined if you don't know exactly how/who to deal with on freight.
Here is a super lathe if you can find one in descent shape. South Bend 10L(heavy 10) longbed. 10" swing and 34ish" between centers. 1 3/8" spindle bore. Black Hills State College had 3 of them they sold a yr ago last May along with a 10K and a 13.5" or 14". All were in great shape as far as the bed, gears etc were concerned.A few minor dents/dings but nothing of any significance in on the ways. Mine here had the belt tension handle broke off as all of these were on the 2nd floor and had to be taken down stairs or out a 2nd story window. Had Stelter's in New Leipzig weld the handle and I repainted it and you cannot tell it was broke.Paint made them look more used then they were. First 10L with no steady or faceplate brought $1400 and I thought the most backlash of the 3. Next I run to $1800, it did not have the D1-4 camlock spindle. This one had a bit more wear on compound but had additional 10" faceplate and 2 follow rests with 1 being new. 3 and 4 jaw chucks, drive plate, the good steady rest. $1875 w/tax and I sold the used follow rest for $140. IIRC correctly it was made in '85. I did paint the cabinet as they had a sticker on it and it peeled some of the paint off when I removed it. The 10K which is like the link pictured above was excellent except for carriage crossfeed handle got broke in moving it to auction site. It brought $1100. Comparable 10L's on Ebay are fetching $4000ish with same tooling. The 10K is not really a good gunsmith lathe unless you do everything between centers. They only have about a 1" spindle bore but some may have been made larger????
Another nice lathe which I would love to get ahold of is an Emco(NOT Enco) Maximat Super 11. They are only 26" centers but a super hobby lathe and you can find one occassionally on Ebay for $4000 or less. Watch the Variable speed Clausings as they have issues with that. Alot of great older American made iron can be had if you are in no real big hurry and keep checking. They sold a Jet this summer in Mandan @ the Implement dealer that went out of business south of main about midway across from that cafe I cannot remember the name of. It looked good in pics but having 2 I didn't drive up to see what it brought.
Otherwise the Kent, Grizzly or Birmingham would be my choice. Same as some of the Jet models only with different colored paint. You will pay money for the Jet name!!! I had a "Precision" from Harbor Freight that was less accurate than my Craftsman late model 12x36. Also the Central Machinery, Enco's, etc are the bottom end but come from the same Chicom shithole.
Be patient and watch the Bismarck Finder and local auctions. They show up frequently and you might get lucky. There is a guy around Carrington or north of there that deals in used lathes etc but I cannot remember his name or exact town. Shipping can be a killer buying online etc. Easy to get $1000+ tied into a machined if you don't know exactly how/who to deal with on freight.
Re: what lathe to start with
Here's what my local gunsmith uses to thread, chamber,contour, and crown his barrels. .000050" TIR, fer chrissakes
Romi CNC Turning Centers
Here's what my local gunsmith uses to thread, chamber,contour, and crown his barrels. .000050" TIR, fer chrissakes
Romi CNC Turning Centers
Re: what lathe to start with
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1ZNUF</div><div class="ubbcode-body">.. discoverd the seedy underbelly of the used machine tool market. I rapidly came to the conclusion that it was rare to find a used "Quality Name" machine that didn't have some significant problem. </div></div>
They are out there, like a 1956 Corvette with 20,000 miles for $200, just hard to find.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1ZNUF</div><div class="ubbcode-body">.. discoverd the seedy underbelly of the used machine tool market. I rapidly came to the conclusion that it was rare to find a used "Quality Name" machine that didn't have some significant problem. </div></div>
They are out there, like a 1956 Corvette with 20,000 miles for $200, just hard to find.
Re: what lathe to start with
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clark</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1ZNUF</div><div class="ubbcode-body">.. discoverd the seedy underbelly of the used machine tool market. I rapidly came to the conclusion that it was rare to find a used "Quality Name" machine that didn't have some significant problem. </div></div>
They are out there, like a 1956 Corvette with 20,000 miles for $200, just hard to find. </div></div>
Maybe...out in some farmers field with a tree growing thru it that his son wrecked in '57 and they hid it there so the cops wouldn't give him a ticket.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clark</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1ZNUF</div><div class="ubbcode-body">.. discoverd the seedy underbelly of the used machine tool market. I rapidly came to the conclusion that it was rare to find a used "Quality Name" machine that didn't have some significant problem. </div></div>
They are out there, like a 1956 Corvette with 20,000 miles for $200, just hard to find. </div></div>
Maybe...out in some farmers field with a tree growing thru it that his son wrecked in '57 and they hid it there so the cops wouldn't give him a ticket.
Re: what lathe to start with
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: keydiverfla</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clark</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1ZNUF</div><div class="ubbcode-body">.. discoverd the seedy underbelly of the used machine tool market. I rapidly came to the conclusion that it was rare to find a used "Quality Name" machine that didn't have some significant problem. </div></div>
They are out there, like a 1956 Corvette with 20,000 miles for $200, just hard to find. </div></div>
Maybe...out in some farmers field with a tree growing thru it that his son wrecked in '57 and they hid it there so the cops wouldn't give him a ticket. </div></div>
Don't know about that. Met a guy who bought a factory original '72 Dodge Dart in excellent(only needed the front seat re-upholstered) condition for $800. Met him when his son and a couple of friends took it out joyriding late one night and promptly blew every seal in the engine.
Go to government surplus auctions with someone who knows machinery. I worked in maintenace at the college I went to and it wasn't unusual to take surplus equipment in excellent and sometimes still sealed in the factory box condition to Little Rock for the state surplus auctions for the sole reason that the department that it belonged to had some money left in the budget at the end of the fiscal year and had to use it or risk loosing the money the next year.
P.S. Any self respecting farmer would have reported the car as stolen the next morning after he picked his son up and got some sleep and then claimed the insurance on it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: keydiverfla</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clark</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1ZNUF</div><div class="ubbcode-body">.. discoverd the seedy underbelly of the used machine tool market. I rapidly came to the conclusion that it was rare to find a used "Quality Name" machine that didn't have some significant problem. </div></div>
They are out there, like a 1956 Corvette with 20,000 miles for $200, just hard to find. </div></div>
Maybe...out in some farmers field with a tree growing thru it that his son wrecked in '57 and they hid it there so the cops wouldn't give him a ticket. </div></div>
Don't know about that. Met a guy who bought a factory original '72 Dodge Dart in excellent(only needed the front seat re-upholstered) condition for $800. Met him when his son and a couple of friends took it out joyriding late one night and promptly blew every seal in the engine.
Go to government surplus auctions with someone who knows machinery. I worked in maintenace at the college I went to and it wasn't unusual to take surplus equipment in excellent and sometimes still sealed in the factory box condition to Little Rock for the state surplus auctions for the sole reason that the department that it belonged to had some money left in the budget at the end of the fiscal year and had to use it or risk loosing the money the next year.
P.S. Any self respecting farmer would have reported the car as stolen the next morning after he picked his son up and got some sleep and then claimed the insurance on it.
Re: what lathe to start with
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jerseymike</div><div class="ubbcode-body">can someone post some links of recommended lathes under 1500? </div></div>
You can find some good used lathes out there in the $2000+ price range BUT you have to look hard, have cash and be quick.
Basically, the best would be a 20+ Taiwanese or better yet Japanese import. Cuts metric.
Just about all lathes in that price range era have ZERO parts support, and if they did they parts would cost more than you paid for the lathe.
There are hundreds of Brands because everyone and their brother imported them under their name, like Cadillac, Victor, Mighty Turn, Jet.. etc...etc...
American can be OK, but same on the parts situation. But usually you can't cut metric without change gears and that hassle and DID you get the gears with the machine.
If you need parts, you have to make them, find them on Ebay etc.
That is why you don't need a fixer up lathe.
You MUST get tooling when you purchase a lathe OR spend another $1500 plus buying chucks, toolpost, steady rest(machine specific), follower rest(machine specific), tailstock center and they are not easy to find for old lathes, or cheap.
You need to invest the time watching Craigslist, Ebay and local internet machining forums to get educated. You find a lathe and then Google machining forums to learn about that brand and machine and what it is worth.
Unfortunately there is a big learning curve.
If you can find an experienced friend to help evaluate lathes it is a big plus.
Buying a turd, can be a frusturating and expensive experience.
Telling you to look for brand X, means nothing if the machine is well worn, abused, missing tooling and some other unknown brand Y lathe is in better shape with tooling down the road.
30 years of hobbyist buying, selling, trading and upgrading machine tools and I still see plenty of machine brands I never heard of.
Good news is with the plummeting economy, more bargains are showing up.
Another angle is to buy a used 12" x 36" Chinese lathe, something like a Enco as a starter lathe to start making chips, learn to machine and learn what to look for in a better used machine and then simply move up and sell the Enco.
I see these for $1200 with (basic tooling)and down all the time on CL.
Good luck.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jerseymike</div><div class="ubbcode-body">can someone post some links of recommended lathes under 1500? </div></div>
You can find some good used lathes out there in the $2000+ price range BUT you have to look hard, have cash and be quick.
Basically, the best would be a 20+ Taiwanese or better yet Japanese import. Cuts metric.
Just about all lathes in that price range era have ZERO parts support, and if they did they parts would cost more than you paid for the lathe.
There are hundreds of Brands because everyone and their brother imported them under their name, like Cadillac, Victor, Mighty Turn, Jet.. etc...etc...
American can be OK, but same on the parts situation. But usually you can't cut metric without change gears and that hassle and DID you get the gears with the machine.
If you need parts, you have to make them, find them on Ebay etc.
That is why you don't need a fixer up lathe.
You MUST get tooling when you purchase a lathe OR spend another $1500 plus buying chucks, toolpost, steady rest(machine specific), follower rest(machine specific), tailstock center and they are not easy to find for old lathes, or cheap.
You need to invest the time watching Craigslist, Ebay and local internet machining forums to get educated. You find a lathe and then Google machining forums to learn about that brand and machine and what it is worth.
Unfortunately there is a big learning curve.
If you can find an experienced friend to help evaluate lathes it is a big plus.
Buying a turd, can be a frusturating and expensive experience.
Telling you to look for brand X, means nothing if the machine is well worn, abused, missing tooling and some other unknown brand Y lathe is in better shape with tooling down the road.
30 years of hobbyist buying, selling, trading and upgrading machine tools and I still see plenty of machine brands I never heard of.
Good news is with the plummeting economy, more bargains are showing up.
Another angle is to buy a used 12" x 36" Chinese lathe, something like a Enco as a starter lathe to start making chips, learn to machine and learn what to look for in a better used machine and then simply move up and sell the Enco.
I see these for $1200 with (basic tooling)and down all the time on CL.
Good luck.
Re: what lathe to start with
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: crumpmd</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I bought the Grizzly 4003G
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Gunsmith-s-Bench-Top-Lathe-with-Stand/G4003G
I have learned much using it. I figure my next purchase will be a mill. I was thinking of a heavier lathe but have decided against it. This one will do fine. I have built one rifle and threaded 4 barrels for silencers. It takes a lot of practice on things you have to willing to ruin. You have to accept help willingly and listen carefully. Nuggets of gold on machining setup and execution can be had in a brief conversation. </div></div>
Nice mo-chine. I have a Grizzly as well, and I also have the 8x36 Grizzly knee mill. Would be nice to have a bigger mill, but moving these freaking things is a nightmare.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: crumpmd</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I bought the Grizzly 4003G
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Gunsmith-s-Bench-Top-Lathe-with-Stand/G4003G
I have learned much using it. I figure my next purchase will be a mill. I was thinking of a heavier lathe but have decided against it. This one will do fine. I have built one rifle and threaded 4 barrels for silencers. It takes a lot of practice on things you have to willing to ruin. You have to accept help willingly and listen carefully. Nuggets of gold on machining setup and execution can be had in a brief conversation. </div></div>
Nice mo-chine. I have a Grizzly as well, and I also have the 8x36 Grizzly knee mill. Would be nice to have a bigger mill, but moving these freaking things is a nightmare.
Re: what lathe to start with
I have a small Grizzly for doing bolt knobs. It works great, but I wouldnt use it for anything except bolt knobs.
We use a variety of Lathes at school and I'm learning that you can do good work on an old or "lesser" quality machine if it will do the job, and you take the time to indicate it in and set it up. And by do the job I mean thread the tpi you need, or have enough distance between centers/swing, etc.
Grizzly has a $3,000 gunsmithing lathe that we might get for certain work. Not that we have the money or room for it, but having a different machine set up for each different task would be amazing.
I have a small Grizzly for doing bolt knobs. It works great, but I wouldnt use it for anything except bolt knobs.
We use a variety of Lathes at school and I'm learning that you can do good work on an old or "lesser" quality machine if it will do the job, and you take the time to indicate it in and set it up. And by do the job I mean thread the tpi you need, or have enough distance between centers/swing, etc.
Grizzly has a $3,000 gunsmithing lathe that we might get for certain work. Not that we have the money or room for it, but having a different machine set up for each different task would be amazing.
Re: what lathe to start with
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SDWhirlwind</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is a super lathe if you can find one in descent shape. South Bend 10L(heavy 10) longbed. 10" swing and 34ish" between centers. 1 3/8" spindle bore. Black Hills State College had 3 of them they sold a yr ago last May along with a 10K and a 13.5" or 14". All were in great shape as far as the bed, gears etc were concerned.A few minor dents/dings but nothing of any significance in on the ways. Mine here had the belt tension handle broke off as all of these were on the 2nd floor and had to be taken down stairs or out a 2nd story window. Had Stelter's in New Leipzig weld the handle and I repainted it and you cannot tell it was broke.Paint made them look more used then they were. First 10L with no steady or faceplate brought $1400 and I thought the most backlash of the 3. Next I run to $1800, it did not have the D1-4 camlock spindle. This one had a bit more wear on compound but had additional 10" faceplate and 2 follow rests with 1 being new. 3 and 4 jaw chucks, drive plate, the good steady rest. $1875 w/tax and I sold the used follow rest for $140. IIRC correctly it was made in '85. I did paint the cabinet as they had a sticker on it and it peeled some of the paint off when I removed it. The 10K which is like the link pictured above was excellent except for carriage crossfeed handle got broke in moving it to auction site. It brought $1100. Comparable 10L's on Ebay are fetching $4000ish with same tooling. The 10K is not really a good gunsmith lathe unless you do everything between centers. They only have about a 1" spindle bore but some may have been made larger????
</div></div>
I have that exact lathe with a 4 foot flame hardened bed. It was like new when I bought it and has the cam loc spindle. I put a single phase 1.5 hp leeson motor in it. Bearing runout on these older lathes is user adjustable and the bearings are in an oil bath so they will last forever. An Aloris QC tool post is a must have with plenty of QC tool holders.
A 5c collet setup is a big plus. The cam loc is nice for adapting special fixtures you will need for smith work.
Many smiths have used these 10" Southbends over the years with great success. The history of Southbend Lathe CO. is a long one dating back to the early 1900's. Many of the 10" lathes were used on Navy ships and have WAR DEpt. tags on them. There were suttle changes to them over the years but the basic design remained the same until LEBLOND bought the company. The Old Southbend factory was torn down last year with many mourners standing by.
Just be sure the bed is in good shape. The flame hardened bed ways are great.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SDWhirlwind</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is a super lathe if you can find one in descent shape. South Bend 10L(heavy 10) longbed. 10" swing and 34ish" between centers. 1 3/8" spindle bore. Black Hills State College had 3 of them they sold a yr ago last May along with a 10K and a 13.5" or 14". All were in great shape as far as the bed, gears etc were concerned.A few minor dents/dings but nothing of any significance in on the ways. Mine here had the belt tension handle broke off as all of these were on the 2nd floor and had to be taken down stairs or out a 2nd story window. Had Stelter's in New Leipzig weld the handle and I repainted it and you cannot tell it was broke.Paint made them look more used then they were. First 10L with no steady or faceplate brought $1400 and I thought the most backlash of the 3. Next I run to $1800, it did not have the D1-4 camlock spindle. This one had a bit more wear on compound but had additional 10" faceplate and 2 follow rests with 1 being new. 3 and 4 jaw chucks, drive plate, the good steady rest. $1875 w/tax and I sold the used follow rest for $140. IIRC correctly it was made in '85. I did paint the cabinet as they had a sticker on it and it peeled some of the paint off when I removed it. The 10K which is like the link pictured above was excellent except for carriage crossfeed handle got broke in moving it to auction site. It brought $1100. Comparable 10L's on Ebay are fetching $4000ish with same tooling. The 10K is not really a good gunsmith lathe unless you do everything between centers. They only have about a 1" spindle bore but some may have been made larger????
</div></div>
I have that exact lathe with a 4 foot flame hardened bed. It was like new when I bought it and has the cam loc spindle. I put a single phase 1.5 hp leeson motor in it. Bearing runout on these older lathes is user adjustable and the bearings are in an oil bath so they will last forever. An Aloris QC tool post is a must have with plenty of QC tool holders.
A 5c collet setup is a big plus. The cam loc is nice for adapting special fixtures you will need for smith work.
Many smiths have used these 10" Southbends over the years with great success. The history of Southbend Lathe CO. is a long one dating back to the early 1900's. Many of the 10" lathes were used on Navy ships and have WAR DEpt. tags on them. There were suttle changes to them over the years but the basic design remained the same until LEBLOND bought the company. The Old Southbend factory was torn down last year with many mourners standing by.
Just be sure the bed is in good shape. The flame hardened bed ways are great.
Re: what lathe to start with
AZ are you saying that you wouldnt use the $3000 grzzly gunsmithing lathe for barrel work ?
AZ are you saying that you wouldnt use the $3000 grzzly gunsmithing lathe for barrel work ?
Re: what lathe to start with
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rippit</div><div class="ubbcode-body">AZ are you saying that you wouldnt use the $3000 grzzly gunsmithing lathe for barrel work ?</div></div>
correct me if i'm wrong, but I believe he stated he wouldn't use his smaller grizzly lathe for anything but bolt knobs, and was considering getting the $3000 lathe for other applications...
Steve
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rippit</div><div class="ubbcode-body">AZ are you saying that you wouldnt use the $3000 grzzly gunsmithing lathe for barrel work ?</div></div>
correct me if i'm wrong, but I believe he stated he wouldn't use his smaller grizzly lathe for anything but bolt knobs, and was considering getting the $3000 lathe for other applications...
Steve
Re: what lathe to start with
I plan on ordering the G4003G towards the end of january, some say they are no good but I have yet to hear an in-depth explanation as to why?? everyone I know that uses this machine has been happy with it, plus anything you get from grizzly will have great parts support an customer service...JMHO
I plan on ordering the G4003G towards the end of january, some say they are no good but I have yet to hear an in-depth explanation as to why?? everyone I know that uses this machine has been happy with it, plus anything you get from grizzly will have great parts support an customer service...JMHO
Re: what lathe to start with
My recomendation would be to buy a good secondhanded industrial machine. I have currently two lathes, that I mainly use for prototype work.
The first machine is a Swedish Storebro, its about 8" and perfect for barrelwork.
My second lathe is a Schaublin 102, that is nearly an ideal machine for small parts. It has a collet system that is wonderfull for the really small pieces.
With such machinery that can be bought at good prices, can also the money be returned one day when the machine is sold or swoped out for something else.
A cheap new machine means that you are loosing some 1000 dollars when the machine leaves the store.....
Håkan
My recomendation would be to buy a good secondhanded industrial machine. I have currently two lathes, that I mainly use for prototype work.
The first machine is a Swedish Storebro, its about 8" and perfect for barrelwork.
My second lathe is a Schaublin 102, that is nearly an ideal machine for small parts. It has a collet system that is wonderfull for the really small pieces.
With such machinery that can be bought at good prices, can also the money be returned one day when the machine is sold or swoped out for something else.
A cheap new machine means that you are loosing some 1000 dollars when the machine leaves the store.....
Håkan
Re: what lathe to start with
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Slayer_21420</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I plan on ordering the G4003G...some say they are no good but I have yet to hear an in-depth explanation as to why?? everyone I know that uses this machine has been happy with it, plus anything you get from grizzly will have great parts support an customer service...JMHO </div></div>
It appears that Grizzly has set themselves outside the masses of foreign manufactures by such things as customer support mentioned above. I am no old hat, but I would definitely look, touch and feel.
They have a program you can call or write in and Grizzly will refer you to individuals who owns one and will, naturally, give you the low down on their experience.
I lucked into a SB Hwy 10 and love it. Once you get past the gee-wizz stage and you have beginning skills at machining you will begin to acquire tools for your trade/hobby. This is when things get expensive.
In my shopping years (about 18 mos ago) the only real unbelievable lathe I saw (via the internet) was a SB 10L partially crated for sale by a government liquidator located at an AFB in ND. The lathe was not even out of the original crate and shipping and SB tags were still attached.
So my take on the quality side, is when you look at it and it hasn't been repainted, etc., you see the shop where it lived and visit with the owner, you will reach into your pocket and do the deal. Then get back on this forum and show it off.
And let the fun begin!
Wally
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Slayer_21420</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I plan on ordering the G4003G...some say they are no good but I have yet to hear an in-depth explanation as to why?? everyone I know that uses this machine has been happy with it, plus anything you get from grizzly will have great parts support an customer service...JMHO </div></div>
It appears that Grizzly has set themselves outside the masses of foreign manufactures by such things as customer support mentioned above. I am no old hat, but I would definitely look, touch and feel.
They have a program you can call or write in and Grizzly will refer you to individuals who owns one and will, naturally, give you the low down on their experience.
I lucked into a SB Hwy 10 and love it. Once you get past the gee-wizz stage and you have beginning skills at machining you will begin to acquire tools for your trade/hobby. This is when things get expensive.
In my shopping years (about 18 mos ago) the only real unbelievable lathe I saw (via the internet) was a SB 10L partially crated for sale by a government liquidator located at an AFB in ND. The lathe was not even out of the original crate and shipping and SB tags were still attached.
So my take on the quality side, is when you look at it and it hasn't been repainted, etc., you see the shop where it lived and visit with the owner, you will reach into your pocket and do the deal. Then get back on this forum and show it off.
And let the fun begin!
Wally
Re: what lathe to start with
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Jet makes some bad ass lathes and mills and stuff</div></div>
I bought a Jet 12x36 lathe, and a Jet 16" drill/mill in 1981. I've built a lot of guns, even fluted barrels (on the mill). Bothe aer still running and doing pretty good work.
Having said that, I think any machining is the operator, its in the set up and measuring.
Besides the above listed machiens, I also extensively use a Milling attachment sold by Brownells on both machines, they are worth their weight in gold.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Jet makes some bad ass lathes and mills and stuff</div></div>
I bought a Jet 12x36 lathe, and a Jet 16" drill/mill in 1981. I've built a lot of guns, even fluted barrels (on the mill). Bothe aer still running and doing pretty good work.
Having said that, I think any machining is the operator, its in the set up and measuring.
Besides the above listed machiens, I also extensively use a Milling attachment sold by Brownells on both machines, they are worth their weight in gold.
Re: what lathe to start with
"Having said that, I think any machining is the operator, its in the set up and measuring."
That is 100% right on.
I've seen shoddy work off top notch machinery by mediocre "operators",
and top notch work off "mediocre" machinery by skilled journeymen.
"Having said that, I think any machining is the operator, its in the set up and measuring."
That is 100% right on.
I've seen shoddy work off top notch machinery by mediocre "operators",
and top notch work off "mediocre" machinery by skilled journeymen.
Re: what lathe to start with
I highly suggest a used colchester 13 x 40 in very good shape. I dont know how much you have to spend, but this set up with tooling can be had for about $8000 to $10000. If your budget is less, then you need to look at the south bend heavy 10 with a d-4 head built in the 80's. Both are great machines and the last of built in America and England. Super high quality on both even though they are day and night from one another. I own both and use them daily in my gun shop for building precision rifles that produce 1/4 MOA all day. Yes Im one of those little kept secrets no one knows about, yet. You can contact me at suarez tactical rifles if you need me to share more detailed lathe info. I build for money, but understand some people like to do thier own work, and I just love to share what I know with others.
I highly suggest a used colchester 13 x 40 in very good shape. I dont know how much you have to spend, but this set up with tooling can be had for about $8000 to $10000. If your budget is less, then you need to look at the south bend heavy 10 with a d-4 head built in the 80's. Both are great machines and the last of built in America and England. Super high quality on both even though they are day and night from one another. I own both and use them daily in my gun shop for building precision rifles that produce 1/4 MOA all day. Yes Im one of those little kept secrets no one knows about, yet. You can contact me at suarez tactical rifles if you need me to share more detailed lathe info. I build for money, but understand some people like to do thier own work, and I just love to share what I know with others.
