I'm trying to get a feel for what gun safe to buy. I have pressed my luck long enough... What do you have and what do you like and dislike about it/them.
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What safe are you using?
- Thread starter Geno C.
- Start date
Re: What safe are you using?
The search is your friend. I have a browning medalion that I like just fine, but I believe there are better at a better value. Buy the biggest you can fit and afford, I promise it won't be big enough.
The search is your friend. I have a browning medalion that I like just fine, but I believe there are better at a better value. Buy the biggest you can fit and afford, I promise it won't be big enough.
Re: What safe are you using?
just picked up a Liberty Guardian from Sams. It's pretty sick deal for $600!!
just picked up a Liberty Guardian from Sams. It's pretty sick deal for $600!!
Re: What safe are you using?
I have a Fort Knox and am satisfied with the quality and fire rating. All I would suggest is figure everything you will be putting in it including guns, cameras, wifes jewelry and important documents then buy the safe that's twice as big as you think you will need.
RT
I have a Fort Knox and am satisfied with the quality and fire rating. All I would suggest is figure everything you will be putting in it including guns, cameras, wifes jewelry and important documents then buy the safe that's twice as big as you think you will need.
RT
Re: What safe are you using?
This was really helpful when I was looking for mine.
http://www.6mmbr.com/gunsafes.html
Ended up with an Amsec because the proprietary concrete is a better solution for fireproofing than gypsum board and it is great reinforcement for the structure of the safe. Also the fire rating was performed by UL testing the whole safe and not rating it by the material specs of the proofing material. Another reason why the concrete was a big seller to me was the distributor I went through had a safe that was attacked and you could really tell the robbers had a hard time trying to get through the concrete. It is pretty dense stuff much like the kind you find on a machine shop floor.
The important things for me that I looked for was
-Structure (thick door <span style="font-weight: bold">actual plate thickness</span>, deadbolts on both sides of the doors, walls resistant to torch and cutting tools)
-Locking Mechanism (linkages withstands attacks to deadbolts, quick opening, keypad wear resistant)
-Weight (heavy enough that it takes 4 men to move)
-Fireproofing (palusol door seals, high 1300 90 minutes)
-Could be delivered to my house cost effectively and can fit through door
The most important thing to consider unless you just need something in the meantime is buy something twice as large as you think you need. Trust me on this you will be glad you did.
This was really helpful when I was looking for mine.
http://www.6mmbr.com/gunsafes.html
Ended up with an Amsec because the proprietary concrete is a better solution for fireproofing than gypsum board and it is great reinforcement for the structure of the safe. Also the fire rating was performed by UL testing the whole safe and not rating it by the material specs of the proofing material. Another reason why the concrete was a big seller to me was the distributor I went through had a safe that was attacked and you could really tell the robbers had a hard time trying to get through the concrete. It is pretty dense stuff much like the kind you find on a machine shop floor.
The important things for me that I looked for was
-Structure (thick door <span style="font-weight: bold">actual plate thickness</span>, deadbolts on both sides of the doors, walls resistant to torch and cutting tools)
-Locking Mechanism (linkages withstands attacks to deadbolts, quick opening, keypad wear resistant)
-Weight (heavy enough that it takes 4 men to move)
-Fireproofing (palusol door seals, high 1300 90 minutes)
-Could be delivered to my house cost effectively and can fit through door
The most important thing to consider unless you just need something in the meantime is buy something twice as large as you think you need. Trust me on this you will be glad you did.
Re: What safe are you using?
I bought a Sentry and I would not recomend them. The timing on my locking lugs got to where the tops one were full out and the lower ones were only out about 1/4 of the way and the lock quit working. I took the interior cover off the door thinking I would find a lose gear or sheared pin or something.
I was shocked to find no gears or pins were used in the construction. The linkage was simply rolled sheet metal and the piviot points were nothing more than large flat rivits. Just about the cheapest construction available. My linkage had bent causing the timing of the lugs to be off so all I could do was grab it and bend it back. After 3 or 4 months it was bent again so I am scraping the thing next month and getting something better.
I bought a Sentry and I would not recomend them. The timing on my locking lugs got to where the tops one were full out and the lower ones were only out about 1/4 of the way and the lock quit working. I took the interior cover off the door thinking I would find a lose gear or sheared pin or something.
I was shocked to find no gears or pins were used in the construction. The linkage was simply rolled sheet metal and the piviot points were nothing more than large flat rivits. Just about the cheapest construction available. My linkage had bent causing the timing of the lugs to be off so all I could do was grab it and bend it back. After 3 or 4 months it was bent again so I am scraping the thing next month and getting something better.
Re: What safe are you using?
I plan on getting the biggest one that I can fit! I like the door organizer that Browning offers because it adds to the amount of long guns it holds.
I plan on getting the biggest one that I can fit! I like the door organizer that Browning offers because it adds to the amount of long guns it holds.
Re: What safe are you using?
..
A safe is a lifetime purchase and most folks don't realize that its cost is zero to a U.S. citizen. ZERO. If you store your tax records in your safe you may write it off in its entirety. This is wholly legal.
Now with that in mind.......
Go get a real safe that will last you a lifetime.
So much to tell, but I will spare you all but one hard fast rule that I recommend. No electronic locks. It has nothing to do with ease of use or the risk of failure. Go mechanical. A outstanding box is a must and where everybody spends their energy and $$$....but a great lock is just the beginning.
<span style="font-weight: bold">GROUP 1 </span>
are highly resistant to expert or professional mainipulation. The protection against expert manipulation includes closed cams, notched tumblers, extra levers, or other advanced design features not found in convenional designs Group 1 locks are considered suitable for use on burglary 0resisting safes.
<span style="font-weight: bold">GROUP 1R</span>
afford the same protection against expert or professional manipulation as a Group 1 lock and in addition includes resistance against radiological methods of attack. Group 1R locks are considered suitable for use on firesafes, security files and vaults where the highest degree of protection is required.
<span style="font-weight: bold">GROUP 2</span>
are resistant to semiskilled manipulation. They are considered to suitable for use on general security containers.
http://www.sargentandgreenleaf.com/MN-mechCombo.php
http://www.sargentandgreenleaf.com/chart3.php
http://www.time-master.com/HTML/Catalog/Mechanical_Safe_Locks/index.html
Buy once, cry once.
..
A safe is a lifetime purchase and most folks don't realize that its cost is zero to a U.S. citizen. ZERO. If you store your tax records in your safe you may write it off in its entirety. This is wholly legal.
Now with that in mind.......
Go get a real safe that will last you a lifetime.
So much to tell, but I will spare you all but one hard fast rule that I recommend. No electronic locks. It has nothing to do with ease of use or the risk of failure. Go mechanical. A outstanding box is a must and where everybody spends their energy and $$$....but a great lock is just the beginning.
<span style="font-weight: bold">GROUP 1 </span>
are highly resistant to expert or professional mainipulation. The protection against expert manipulation includes closed cams, notched tumblers, extra levers, or other advanced design features not found in convenional designs Group 1 locks are considered suitable for use on burglary 0resisting safes.
<span style="font-weight: bold">GROUP 1R</span>
afford the same protection against expert or professional manipulation as a Group 1 lock and in addition includes resistance against radiological methods of attack. Group 1R locks are considered suitable for use on firesafes, security files and vaults where the highest degree of protection is required.
<span style="font-weight: bold">GROUP 2</span>
are resistant to semiskilled manipulation. They are considered to suitable for use on general security containers.
http://www.sargentandgreenleaf.com/MN-mechCombo.php
http://www.sargentandgreenleaf.com/chart3.php
http://www.time-master.com/HTML/Catalog/Mechanical_Safe_Locks/index.html
Buy once, cry once.
Re: What safe are you using?
Very interesting point.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">..
A safe is a lifetime purchase and most folks don't realize that its cost is zero to a U.S. citizen. ZERO. If you store your tax records in your safe you may write it off in its entirety. This is wholly legal.
Now with that in mind.......
Go get a real safe that will last you a lifetime.
.. </div></div>
Very interesting point.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">..
A safe is a lifetime purchase and most folks don't realize that its cost is zero to a U.S. citizen. ZERO. If you store your tax records in your safe you may write it off in its entirety. This is wholly legal.
Now with that in mind.......
Go get a real safe that will last you a lifetime.
.. </div></div>
Re: What safe are you using?
i'm getting a liberty fatboy off of a recomendation of a few people. looks like it will be big enough.
http://www.libertysafe.com/safe_fatboy.php
i'm getting a liberty fatboy off of a recomendation of a few people. looks like it will be big enough.
http://www.libertysafe.com/safe_fatboy.php
Re: What safe are you using?
Does anyone have a safe without external hinges and wish they would have gotten them so they would be able to open the door all the way, or take it off for easier moving?
Does anyone have a safe without external hinges and wish they would have gotten them so they would be able to open the door all the way, or take it off for easier moving?
Re: What safe are you using?
..
The way safes hinges are designed today, external hinges provide little except a "look." You can get full opening and removal either way with a good quality design and construction. Your door should weigh so much that it will arrive assembled and never be taken off.
..
The way safes hinges are designed today, external hinges provide little except a "look." You can get full opening and removal either way with a good quality design and construction. Your door should weigh so much that it will arrive assembled and never be taken off.
Re: What safe are you using?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BigJoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i'm getting a liberty fatboy off of a recomendation of a few people. looks like it will be big enough.
http://www.libertysafe.com/safe_fatboy.php </div></div>
check your door widths if you are putting it inside. that's why i got the jr.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BigJoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i'm getting a liberty fatboy off of a recomendation of a few people. looks like it will be big enough.
http://www.libertysafe.com/safe_fatboy.php </div></div>
check your door widths if you are putting it inside. that's why i got the jr.
Re: What safe are you using?
Amsec BF Series with external hinges. I too preferred the concrete fire liner over the gypsum board. It makes the safe way more heavy = harder to move around / steal. Amsec also uses a thicker gauge steel when comparing safes from other manufactures at the same price range. Customer service is excellent as well. Fort knox makes a good product, however I feel that a lot of their features are more "ginger bread" than actual security features....ie the fort knox corner bolts. Corner bolts look cool, but dont really add additional security over doors with bolts on 4 sides only. And Fort Knox uses their corner bolts as a selling point.
Whatever you decide to buy, move up one size more than you think you need. I have had my safe for a little over 2 years. Never in my wildest dream did I think I would come close to filling it up. But in reality I have to share it with my wife. We keep our jewelry, watches, SS cards, check books, birth certificates, tax information etc in it . As well as firearms, pictures, hard drives. Anything that we could never replace if there was a fire goes in the safe.
Good luck.
Amsec BF Series with external hinges. I too preferred the concrete fire liner over the gypsum board. It makes the safe way more heavy = harder to move around / steal. Amsec also uses a thicker gauge steel when comparing safes from other manufactures at the same price range. Customer service is excellent as well. Fort knox makes a good product, however I feel that a lot of their features are more "ginger bread" than actual security features....ie the fort knox corner bolts. Corner bolts look cool, but dont really add additional security over doors with bolts on 4 sides only. And Fort Knox uses their corner bolts as a selling point.
Whatever you decide to buy, move up one size more than you think you need. I have had my safe for a little over 2 years. Never in my wildest dream did I think I would come close to filling it up. But in reality I have to share it with my wife. We keep our jewelry, watches, SS cards, check books, birth certificates, tax information etc in it . As well as firearms, pictures, hard drives. Anything that we could never replace if there was a fire goes in the safe.
Good luck.
Re: What safe are you using?
Might look at some horizontal safes. They are much more tolerant to fire and easier to hide. Regardless of what you buy, it is just as important to make it discrete.
Might look at some horizontal safes. They are much more tolerant to fire and easier to hide. Regardless of what you buy, it is just as important to make it discrete.
Re: What safe are you using?
22x40 Canon from Academy.
Yes, it has sheetrock for insulation. Rule #1, if possible, don't have your safe near potential hotspots in your house (near furnace/kitchen). Perhaps in the outermost corner of your home. I know I'm only VFD, but when the firetruck arrives, I want to be able to bust a window and keep a hose reel line on my safe to keep it cool.
I've been to a few house fires (less than 2000 sq ft homes) and it takes longer than 30 minutes for trucks to roll out, get people out, kill power/gas, dump thousands of gallons of water and foam on a structure. Think about this when deciding on 30 min. or 1 hr. fireproofing, IMHO, you want to safely get a water hose on it ASAP.
Also, someone with the intelligence to break into a real safe (not a bread box from walmart) isn't going after a few hunting rifles with decent glass on them. I suspect most are douches with a crowbar.
22x40 Canon from Academy.
Yes, it has sheetrock for insulation. Rule #1, if possible, don't have your safe near potential hotspots in your house (near furnace/kitchen). Perhaps in the outermost corner of your home. I know I'm only VFD, but when the firetruck arrives, I want to be able to bust a window and keep a hose reel line on my safe to keep it cool.
I've been to a few house fires (less than 2000 sq ft homes) and it takes longer than 30 minutes for trucks to roll out, get people out, kill power/gas, dump thousands of gallons of water and foam on a structure. Think about this when deciding on 30 min. or 1 hr. fireproofing, IMHO, you want to safely get a water hose on it ASAP.
Also, someone with the intelligence to break into a real safe (not a bread box from walmart) isn't going after a few hunting rifles with decent glass on them. I suspect most are douches with a crowbar.
Re: What safe are you using?
I have a Sturdy Gun Safe, and I love it. Not as pretty as most, but a very good safe in my opinion. Good steel and very good fireproofing.
I have a Sturdy Gun Safe, and I love it. Not as pretty as most, but a very good safe in my opinion. Good steel and very good fireproofing.
Re: What safe are you using?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BoredEngineer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This was really helpful when I was looking for mine.
http://www.6mmbr.com/gunsafes.html
Ended up with an Amsec because the proprietary concrete is a better solution for fireproofing than gypsum board and it is great reinforcement for the structure of the safe. Also the fire rating was performed by UL testing the whole safe and not rating it by the material specs of the proofing material. Another reason why the concrete was a big seller to me was the distributor I went through had a safe that was attacked and you could really tell the robbers had a hard time trying to get through the concrete. It is pretty dense stuff much like the kind you find on a machine shop floor.
The important things for me that I looked for was
-Structure (thick door <span style="font-weight: bold">actual plate thickness</span>, deadbolts on both sides of the doors, walls resistant to torch and cutting tools)
-Locking Mechanism (linkages withstands attacks to deadbolts, quick opening, keypad wear resistant)
-Weight (heavy enough that it takes 4 men to move)
-Fireproofing (palusol door seals, high 1300 90 minutes)
-Could be delivered to my house cost effectively and can fit through door
The most important thing to consider unless you just need something in the meantime is <span style="color: #FF0000">buy something twice as large as you think you need</span>. Trust me on this you will be glad you did.
</div></div>
Very sound advice. I have a Liberty safe. It is advertised for 24 guns but there is no way that many are going to fit. Any scoped rifle takes up the room of two none scoped rifles.
Get the biggest safe with the best fire rating you can afford.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BoredEngineer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This was really helpful when I was looking for mine.
http://www.6mmbr.com/gunsafes.html
Ended up with an Amsec because the proprietary concrete is a better solution for fireproofing than gypsum board and it is great reinforcement for the structure of the safe. Also the fire rating was performed by UL testing the whole safe and not rating it by the material specs of the proofing material. Another reason why the concrete was a big seller to me was the distributor I went through had a safe that was attacked and you could really tell the robbers had a hard time trying to get through the concrete. It is pretty dense stuff much like the kind you find on a machine shop floor.
The important things for me that I looked for was
-Structure (thick door <span style="font-weight: bold">actual plate thickness</span>, deadbolts on both sides of the doors, walls resistant to torch and cutting tools)
-Locking Mechanism (linkages withstands attacks to deadbolts, quick opening, keypad wear resistant)
-Weight (heavy enough that it takes 4 men to move)
-Fireproofing (palusol door seals, high 1300 90 minutes)
-Could be delivered to my house cost effectively and can fit through door
The most important thing to consider unless you just need something in the meantime is <span style="color: #FF0000">buy something twice as large as you think you need</span>. Trust me on this you will be glad you did.
</div></div>
Very sound advice. I have a Liberty safe. It is advertised for 24 guns but there is no way that many are going to fit. Any scoped rifle takes up the room of two none scoped rifles.
Get the biggest safe with the best fire rating you can afford.
Re: What safe are you using?
I really think i Need to buy a new Safe now. I only have a Steel Gun Cabinet for my guns that you could break into with a Screw Driver.
I really think i Need to buy a new Safe now. I only have a Steel Gun Cabinet for my guns that you could break into with a Screw Driver.
Re: What safe are you using?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">..
A safe is a lifetime purchase and most folks don't realize that its cost is zero to a U.S. citizen. ZERO. If you store your tax records in your safe you may write it off in its entirety. This is wholly legal.
Now with that in mind.......
</div></div>
I am not a tax professional, this is just what I read elsewhere.
From what I've been told by various sources, there are two types of deductions you can take for a safe.
The first deduction would involve a business purchasing a safe for the day to day operations of that business. The safe is an asset which can then be depreciated over time.
The second deduction is for the storage of tax records. You can only deduct the portion of the safe used for the storage of those records. A small safe may be totally deductable, but a larger safe would not be (unless your taxes are so complex that you have 25 cubic feet of paperwork to store). So if 10% of your safe houses those records, you can take a 10% deduction.
If you attempted a deduction on a gun safe, you always run the risk (although probably small) of being caught.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">..
A safe is a lifetime purchase and most folks don't realize that its cost is zero to a U.S. citizen. ZERO. If you store your tax records in your safe you may write it off in its entirety. This is wholly legal.
Now with that in mind.......
</div></div>
I am not a tax professional, this is just what I read elsewhere.
From what I've been told by various sources, there are two types of deductions you can take for a safe.
The first deduction would involve a business purchasing a safe for the day to day operations of that business. The safe is an asset which can then be depreciated over time.
The second deduction is for the storage of tax records. You can only deduct the portion of the safe used for the storage of those records. A small safe may be totally deductable, but a larger safe would not be (unless your taxes are so complex that you have 25 cubic feet of paperwork to store). So if 10% of your safe houses those records, you can take a 10% deduction.
If you attempted a deduction on a gun safe, you always run the risk (although probably small) of being caught.
Re: What safe are you using?
Liberty presidential, this thing is a monster I really like it and would buy another one if needed.
http://www.libertysafe.com/safe_presidential.php
Liberty presidential, this thing is a monster I really like it and would buy another one if needed.
http://www.libertysafe.com/safe_presidential.php
Re: What safe are you using?
Zanotti Armor here - for the following reasons:
http://www.zanottiarmor.com/index.html
1. Can get any size I want into any room. Once it's all pinned together, it's as strong as any welded safe and heavy enough that it will take some serious effort to get it out of the house.
2. Can easily be moved, if/when I move. The biggest plus is getting it down the stairs into my basement. I don't have a walk out door down there.
3. Customizable interior - they'll build it the way you want it.
One thing to note - they do not contain fire rating material, but are fire resistive and good to 1200 degrees for 20 minutes. I keep mine in a good sized storage room in my basement which has sheet rocked walls, and very little fire load. No, I do not worry about having fire resistive board in the safe - as a 20 year veteran of a paid fire dept. I just don't feel it's necessary (in my application). Heat rises, so the lowest floor or basement will be cooler. Water damage is a much more likely problem, so I overbuilt at 2x4 platform covered in plywood for the safe to set up off the floor.
Back to the fire rating - if 1200 degrees for 20 minutes isn't enough, trust me, I'll have bigger issues to worry about, such as the whole house gone.
Fire board/gypsum/cement board protect by releasing the water they contain when they get heated to a certain temp., basically releasing steam on the inside of your safe. If the temp continues to rise, they very often break down further and migrate towards the lower sections of your safe. If the fire continues to burn unchecked, guess what, you now have little or no protection in the upper regions of your safe.
So, for me, no fire board/cement in my safe. If you really want to protect your stuff, soldier a fire sprinkler head or 2 in your safe room. If you also have a floor drain close by, even better.
I fully agree with the mechanical lock.
Zanotti Armor here - for the following reasons:
http://www.zanottiarmor.com/index.html
1. Can get any size I want into any room. Once it's all pinned together, it's as strong as any welded safe and heavy enough that it will take some serious effort to get it out of the house.
2. Can easily be moved, if/when I move. The biggest plus is getting it down the stairs into my basement. I don't have a walk out door down there.
3. Customizable interior - they'll build it the way you want it.
One thing to note - they do not contain fire rating material, but are fire resistive and good to 1200 degrees for 20 minutes. I keep mine in a good sized storage room in my basement which has sheet rocked walls, and very little fire load. No, I do not worry about having fire resistive board in the safe - as a 20 year veteran of a paid fire dept. I just don't feel it's necessary (in my application). Heat rises, so the lowest floor or basement will be cooler. Water damage is a much more likely problem, so I overbuilt at 2x4 platform covered in plywood for the safe to set up off the floor.
Back to the fire rating - if 1200 degrees for 20 minutes isn't enough, trust me, I'll have bigger issues to worry about, such as the whole house gone.
Fire board/gypsum/cement board protect by releasing the water they contain when they get heated to a certain temp., basically releasing steam on the inside of your safe. If the temp continues to rise, they very often break down further and migrate towards the lower sections of your safe. If the fire continues to burn unchecked, guess what, you now have little or no protection in the upper regions of your safe.
So, for me, no fire board/cement in my safe. If you really want to protect your stuff, soldier a fire sprinkler head or 2 in your safe room. If you also have a floor drain close by, even better.
I fully agree with the mechanical lock.
Re: What safe are you using?
As I've stated prior, you can also look around for deals. On vault doors, that is.
Then, when you install it, and do it right, you can control the size, location, and security. At your convenience. It ain't easy, but it's worth it.
At least, that's what I've been told.
As I've stated prior, you can also look around for deals. On vault doors, that is.
Then, when you install it, and do it right, you can control the size, location, and security. At your convenience. It ain't easy, but it's worth it.
At least, that's what I've been told.
Re: What safe are you using?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BESpain</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">..
A safe is a lifetime purchase and most folks don't realize that its <span style="color: #000099">cost is zero to a U.S. citizen. ZERO.</span> If you store your tax records in your safe you may write it off in its entirety. This is wholly legal.
Now with that in mind.......
</div></div>The first deduction would involve a business purchasing a safe for the day to day operations of that business. The safe is an asset which can then be depreciated over time.
The second deduction is for the storage of tax records. You can only deduct the portion of the safe used for the storage of those records. A small safe may be totally deductable, but a larger safe would not be (unless your taxes are so complex that you have 25 cubic feet of paperwork to store). So if 10% of your safe houses those records, you can take a 10% deduction.
If you attempted a deduction on a gun safe, you always run the risk (although probably small) of being caught.</div></div>
I dealt with this "deduction" issue on my taxes last year... First off, my accountant echoes what BESpain said. Second, it's important to remember that although your <span style="font-weight: bold">monies spent toward the safe may be deductible and/or exempt from taxes, it is still money spent.</span> Therefore, you have paid for the safe, and it is <span style="color: #000099"><span style="font-weight: bold">not FREE, not ZERO cost</span></span> as stated above. Money well-spent, but not remaining at your disposal.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BESpain</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">..
A safe is a lifetime purchase and most folks don't realize that its <span style="color: #000099">cost is zero to a U.S. citizen. ZERO.</span> If you store your tax records in your safe you may write it off in its entirety. This is wholly legal.
Now with that in mind.......
</div></div>The first deduction would involve a business purchasing a safe for the day to day operations of that business. The safe is an asset which can then be depreciated over time.
The second deduction is for the storage of tax records. You can only deduct the portion of the safe used for the storage of those records. A small safe may be totally deductable, but a larger safe would not be (unless your taxes are so complex that you have 25 cubic feet of paperwork to store). So if 10% of your safe houses those records, you can take a 10% deduction.
If you attempted a deduction on a gun safe, you always run the risk (although probably small) of being caught.</div></div>
I dealt with this "deduction" issue on my taxes last year... First off, my accountant echoes what BESpain said. Second, it's important to remember that although your <span style="font-weight: bold">monies spent toward the safe may be deductible and/or exempt from taxes, it is still money spent.</span> Therefore, you have paid for the safe, and it is <span style="color: #000099"><span style="font-weight: bold">not FREE, not ZERO cost</span></span> as stated above. Money well-spent, but not remaining at your disposal.
Re: What safe are you using?
<span style="color: #3366FF">[color:#3366FF]I dealt with this "deduction" issue on my taxes last year... First off, my accountant echoes what BESpain said. Second, it's important to remember that although your <span style="font-weight: bold">monies spent toward the safe may be deductible and/or exempt from taxes, it is still money spent.</span> Therefore, you have paid for the safe, and it isnot FREE, not ZERO cost as stated above. Money well-spent, but not remaining at your disposal</span>. [/color]
Correct, it is still money spent. The IRS will not give you back 1 for 1 on a deduction. The amount of the deduction is subtracted from the gross income and the taxes from that deductable amount is what is credited. In other words if you buy $1000 safe you will get back a percentage of that according to what tax bracket you fall in.
If you are a business and purchase a asset then you can pay for it with pre tax dollars, call it a asset and then write it off over time or one time depending on initial cost and type of business.
<span style="color: #3366FF">[color:#3366FF]I dealt with this "deduction" issue on my taxes last year... First off, my accountant echoes what BESpain said. Second, it's important to remember that although your <span style="font-weight: bold">monies spent toward the safe may be deductible and/or exempt from taxes, it is still money spent.</span> Therefore, you have paid for the safe, and it isnot FREE, not ZERO cost as stated above. Money well-spent, but not remaining at your disposal</span>. [/color]
Correct, it is still money spent. The IRS will not give you back 1 for 1 on a deduction. The amount of the deduction is subtracted from the gross income and the taxes from that deductable amount is what is credited. In other words if you buy $1000 safe you will get back a percentage of that according to what tax bracket you fall in.
If you are a business and purchase a asset then you can pay for it with pre tax dollars, call it a asset and then write it off over time or one time depending on initial cost and type of business.
Re: What safe are you using?
Now let's say you get your (xyz) safe delivered to your driveway or garage.
What tricks did you use to move several hundred pounds?
Buds and beers, golf balls etc...
Or maybe this should be a new thread?
Now let's say you get your (xyz) safe delivered to your driveway or garage.
What tricks did you use to move several hundred pounds?
Buds and beers, golf balls etc...
Or maybe this should be a new thread?
Re: What safe are you using?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cheese</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Now let's say you get your (xyz) safe delivered to your driveway or garage.
What tricks did you use to move several hundred pounds?
Buds and beers, golf balls etc...
</div></div>
A dolly and a nutsack.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cheese</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Now let's say you get your (xyz) safe delivered to your driveway or garage.
What tricks did you use to move several hundred pounds?
Buds and beers, golf balls etc...
</div></div>
A dolly and a nutsack.
Re: What safe are you using?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Balthasar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What do you have and what do you like and dislike about it/them. </div></div>
Strong, yet hard to move around town:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Balthasar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What do you have and what do you like and dislike about it/them. </div></div>
Strong, yet hard to move around town:
Re: What safe are you using?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cheese</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Now let's say you get your (xyz) safe delivered to your driveway or garage.
What tricks did you use to move several hundred pounds?
Buds and beers, golf balls etc...
Or maybe this should be a new thread? </div></div>
I prefer to use someone else.
Cut sections of broomsticks as rollers work for big 'uns. However, for most residential security cabinets, "a dolly and a nutsack" will do.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cheese</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Now let's say you get your (xyz) safe delivered to your driveway or garage.
What tricks did you use to move several hundred pounds?
Buds and beers, golf balls etc...
Or maybe this should be a new thread? </div></div>
I prefer to use someone else.
Cut sections of broomsticks as rollers work for big 'uns. However, for most residential security cabinets, "a dolly and a nutsack" will do.
Re: What safe are you using?
Thanks guys. I have an old truck driving friend that used to haul safes out of somewhere in CO. They were fire rated pretty well he said but when he talked to the guy in charge, he said that even if they are rated for the heat, that almost everytime a gun safe gets pulled out of the rubble that the guns inside are junk. He said your best bet is to keep a couple gallon jugs of water in the safe and then when it gets hot enough to melt the plastic that the steam will help to save some of the stuff.
Thanks guys. I have an old truck driving friend that used to haul safes out of somewhere in CO. They were fire rated pretty well he said but when he talked to the guy in charge, he said that even if they are rated for the heat, that almost everytime a gun safe gets pulled out of the rubble that the guns inside are junk. He said your best bet is to keep a couple gallon jugs of water in the safe and then when it gets hot enough to melt the plastic that the steam will help to save some of the stuff.
Re: What safe are you using?
Browning safes with the door rifle option do NOT hold more long guns. Take another look at that interior. It is cut back and takes away from long gun capacity inside to give you the door options which is only good for NON scoped items. Maybe .22's, Shotguns, etc. It has a cool feature but you had better take another look at that one.
I wanted that feature, but when I saw how much space it took away from the rest of the inside capacity I stayed away from it, almost everythingn in my rifle safe has a scope on it so it wasn't even going to work. That safe just holds less long guns with scopes.
Go bigger than you think you need. I started with one, now am considering my 4th. Go with the thickest body you are willing to pay for which will also get you the best fire rating available. Seems you have the Ft. Knox at the top end, the Cannons also with the best warranty (take a look some say they will send someone out to inspect the breakin/firedamage) some say they will pay for return to the factory to be opened, some say you have to pay shipping to be opened.
The best way to make a safe theif proof is to make sure the only way they can attack it is thru the front. A splitting awl can get into a 12ga body safe in just a few min if they have the room to swing it. It only takes a small hole 12"x12" and they can have just about everying inside in min. A 10ga body is a lil better but still not stoppable. A 1/4" is about as good as your going to find but you will have to pay for it. Anything above that I am sure most of us are unwilling to pay for and is just too damn heavy to try and move. Internal hinges will do anything you want them to. Never had troube gettin my door to swing out of the way with internal hinges. I bought two new matching ones (2nd and 3rd) earlier this year....One A LEFTY hinge (was told only two companies would even do that) and a RIGHTY hinge and put them back to back to make sure a theif has to go in thru the front.
Check body thickness (weight says a lot)
Check fire rating (double layers of sheetrock take away from the ability to hold more guns)
Buy bigger than you think you need, if your not sure buy twice the size you think you need.
Browning safes with the door rifle option do NOT hold more long guns. Take another look at that interior. It is cut back and takes away from long gun capacity inside to give you the door options which is only good for NON scoped items. Maybe .22's, Shotguns, etc. It has a cool feature but you had better take another look at that one.
I wanted that feature, but when I saw how much space it took away from the rest of the inside capacity I stayed away from it, almost everythingn in my rifle safe has a scope on it so it wasn't even going to work. That safe just holds less long guns with scopes.
Go bigger than you think you need. I started with one, now am considering my 4th. Go with the thickest body you are willing to pay for which will also get you the best fire rating available. Seems you have the Ft. Knox at the top end, the Cannons also with the best warranty (take a look some say they will send someone out to inspect the breakin/firedamage) some say they will pay for return to the factory to be opened, some say you have to pay shipping to be opened.
The best way to make a safe theif proof is to make sure the only way they can attack it is thru the front. A splitting awl can get into a 12ga body safe in just a few min if they have the room to swing it. It only takes a small hole 12"x12" and they can have just about everying inside in min. A 10ga body is a lil better but still not stoppable. A 1/4" is about as good as your going to find but you will have to pay for it. Anything above that I am sure most of us are unwilling to pay for and is just too damn heavy to try and move. Internal hinges will do anything you want them to. Never had troube gettin my door to swing out of the way with internal hinges. I bought two new matching ones (2nd and 3rd) earlier this year....One A LEFTY hinge (was told only two companies would even do that) and a RIGHTY hinge and put them back to back to make sure a theif has to go in thru the front.
Check body thickness (weight says a lot)
Check fire rating (double layers of sheetrock take away from the ability to hold more guns)
Buy bigger than you think you need, if your not sure buy twice the size you think you need.
Re: What safe are you using?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: readytorock556</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I got a liberty. Pretty sweet safe, </div></div>
Same! super happy with mine and worth every penny!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: readytorock556</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I got a liberty. Pretty sweet safe, </div></div>
Same! super happy with mine and worth every penny!
Re: What safe are you using?
I used to sell these for a living and I've always liked Liberty...
You probably don't need the president line, the centurion or the colonial (what I have) will be just fine unless you have a 4 story uber flammable house that you plan on putting the safe right in the middle of =]
I used to sell these for a living and I've always liked Liberty...
You probably don't need the president line, the centurion or the colonial (what I have) will be just fine unless you have a 4 story uber flammable house that you plan on putting the safe right in the middle of =]
Re: What safe are you using?
I'm very happy with my Liberty Lincoln model.....largest safe I could get in the basement!
I'm very happy with my Liberty Lincoln model.....largest safe I could get in the basement!
Re: What safe are you using?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Balthasar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks guys. I have an old truck driving friend that used to haul safes out of somewhere in CO. They were fire rated pretty well he said but when he talked to the guy in charge, he said that even if they are rated for the heat, that almost everytime a gun safe gets pulled out of the rubble that the guns inside are junk. He said your best bet is to keep a couple gallon jugs of water in the safe and then when it gets hot enough to melt the plastic that the steam will help to save some of the stuff. </div></div>
Interesting method for keeping your firearms cool during a fire. This approach is similar to how some fire proofing material used in safes work. Only problem I see is that material is used to line the walls of the safe where heat will be conducted directly. If you have a plastic container inside the the safe the plastic will need to get to about 130 degrees C to melt but because it contains water which has a high capacity for heat your guns will likely fry before the container material reaches 130C or the water reaches 100C to boil and break the container.
Better off strategically locating your safe far away from things like your water heater, stove, central heater to keep away from a possible "hot spot" during a house fire. I keep mine on the first floor adjacent to the outer wall farthest from my stove and water heater. If worse comes to worse because its along an outer wall the fireman can hose off my safe to keep it cool.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Balthasar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks guys. I have an old truck driving friend that used to haul safes out of somewhere in CO. They were fire rated pretty well he said but when he talked to the guy in charge, he said that even if they are rated for the heat, that almost everytime a gun safe gets pulled out of the rubble that the guns inside are junk. He said your best bet is to keep a couple gallon jugs of water in the safe and then when it gets hot enough to melt the plastic that the steam will help to save some of the stuff. </div></div>
Interesting method for keeping your firearms cool during a fire. This approach is similar to how some fire proofing material used in safes work. Only problem I see is that material is used to line the walls of the safe where heat will be conducted directly. If you have a plastic container inside the the safe the plastic will need to get to about 130 degrees C to melt but because it contains water which has a high capacity for heat your guns will likely fry before the container material reaches 130C or the water reaches 100C to boil and break the container.
Better off strategically locating your safe far away from things like your water heater, stove, central heater to keep away from a possible "hot spot" during a house fire. I keep mine on the first floor adjacent to the outer wall farthest from my stove and water heater. If worse comes to worse because its along an outer wall the fireman can hose off my safe to keep it cool.
Re: What safe are you using?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BoredEngineer</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Balthasar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">,,,, that almost everytime a gun safe gets pulled out of the rubble that the guns inside are junk. He said your best bet is to keep a <span style="text-decoration: underline">couple gallon jugs of water in the safe and then when it gets hot enough to melt the plastic that the steam will help to save some of the stuff</span>. </div></div>Interesting method for keeping your firearms cool during a fire. <span style="text-decoration: underline">This approach is similar to how some fire proofing material used in safes work</span>. Only problem I see is that material is used to line the walls of the safe where heat will be conducted directly. If you have a plastic container inside the the safe the plastic will need to get to about 130 degrees C to melt but because it contains water which has a high capacity for heat your guns will likely fry before the container material reaches 130C or the water reaches 100C to boil and break the container.</div></div>
Now I had brought this up before, and what I suggested then was a 'fusible link' to which the gravity-fed water can be released. This is only if fire is a serious concern and/or threat. I'm not an advocate of dousing arms in water, though I am definitely a proponent of "saving your sticks". Which is the lesser of two evils? My thread previous though, was about powder storage. A) not exactly wise to store the cans of powder in the safe with the guns, is it? B) how best to safely store them, to prevent theft (B&E) as well as prevent hazards (fire) to the firemen.
God Forbid any of us get burgled. God Forbid even more, any of us have any "extraneous heat issues". (there, if I don't say the word, I/we won't get jinxed, right?)
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BoredEngineer</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Balthasar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">,,,, that almost everytime a gun safe gets pulled out of the rubble that the guns inside are junk. He said your best bet is to keep a <span style="text-decoration: underline">couple gallon jugs of water in the safe and then when it gets hot enough to melt the plastic that the steam will help to save some of the stuff</span>. </div></div>Interesting method for keeping your firearms cool during a fire. <span style="text-decoration: underline">This approach is similar to how some fire proofing material used in safes work</span>. Only problem I see is that material is used to line the walls of the safe where heat will be conducted directly. If you have a plastic container inside the the safe the plastic will need to get to about 130 degrees C to melt but because it contains water which has a high capacity for heat your guns will likely fry before the container material reaches 130C or the water reaches 100C to boil and break the container.</div></div>
Now I had brought this up before, and what I suggested then was a 'fusible link' to which the gravity-fed water can be released. This is only if fire is a serious concern and/or threat. I'm not an advocate of dousing arms in water, though I am definitely a proponent of "saving your sticks". Which is the lesser of two evils? My thread previous though, was about powder storage. A) not exactly wise to store the cans of powder in the safe with the guns, is it? B) how best to safely store them, to prevent theft (B&E) as well as prevent hazards (fire) to the firemen.
God Forbid any of us get burgled. God Forbid even more, any of us have any "extraneous heat issues". (there, if I don't say the word, I/we won't get jinxed, right?)
