What to look for when purchasing an M1 Garand?

[SwiftScope]

As the title states, I'm in the very beginning stages of looking into purchasing an M1 Garand and I'm a total noob when it comes to the vintage rifles. I do know that I don't care for it to be WW2 dated, I just would like a working M1 and would like some help with what to watch for.

Its a goal for me to get one by this time next year so I have plenty of time. Thanks.

 

[Pinmaster]

Most likely you will find one that was made in WWII. Look at the barrel date that is on the barrel when the oprod is locked back. Some/Most WWII built M1's went through a rebuild for Korea. All of the dates are fine to shoot but the non-rebuilt guns sell at a higher price to collectors.

They make a gauge to read muzzle wear (0-3) but for a one time M1 purchase... a 30-06 round will work. Put the bullet in the muzzle and if it swallow the bullet... then know that most likely that barrel is "shot out".

Other than that...if it seems to "cock" when the oprod is racked... then it should be GTG. I always use headspace gauges on the Grands that I pick up. I have other gauges too (Gas cylinder &throat erosion" but that is just because I have had more than a few Garand's over the years. Out of the 30 or so Garand's that I have had, I will say that I have yet to find a M1 that had headspace issues but I check anyway.


M1's are built like tanks, fun to shoot, and a great historical firearm. I hope that you find one and give it a good home.

 

[RTH1800]

Consider one of the models with the trimmed down wood, DBM and ….

 

[SwiftScope]

Most likely you will find one that was made in WWII. Look at the barrel date that is on the barrel when the oprod is locked back. Some/Most WWII built M1's went through a rebuild for Korea. All of the dates are fine to shoot but the non-rebuilt guns sell at a higher price to collectors.

They make a gauge to read muzzle wear (0-3) but for a one time M1 purchase... a 30-06 round will work. Put the bullet in the muzzle and if it swallow the bullet... then know that most likely that barrel is "shot out".

Other than that...if it seems to "cock" when the oprod is racked... then it should be GTG. I always use headspace gauges on the Grands that I pick up. I have other gauges too (Gas cylinder &throat erosion" but that is just because I have had more than a few Garand's over the years. Out of the 30 or so Garand's that I have had, I will say that I have yet to find a M1 that had headspace issues but I check anyway.


M1's are built like tanks, fun to shoot, and a great historical firearm. I hope that you find one and give it a good home.

Thanks for the information, I def plan to take care of it and use it so this helps.

Any information on buying them through the CMP? is it a viable option?

 

[hlee]

Buy from the CMP. They'll ship it to your door. They're cheaper than anything you will likely find locally. Rebuilt by qualified smiths, you'll get a rifle you can shoot, and not something boogered by a home smith and unsafe...

 

[SwiftScope]

Buy from the CMP. They'll ship it to your door. They're cheaper than anything you will likely find locally. Rebuilt by qualified smiths, you'll get a rifle you can shoot, and not something boogered by a home smith and unsafe...

Im in CA so I highly doubt it will come to my door but even if it goes to an FFL id be fine with that.

 

[sirhrmechanic]

Buy from CMP or get one (if you can find one these days) from an estate. Veteran or heirs who brought one home. Those are the amazing ones! But very hard to find, verify, etc.

Avoid reimports. Look under the muzzle for Blue Sky Arsenal and there are a couple of others. Those are ex-Korea, Vietnam, Greece, etc. that are not CMP checked....

IIRC, a ton of them came in from Philippines that the CMP is rebuilding and making into some great rifles. The best... I mean THE best deal is the CMP and the rifles are without question something worth having.

Cheers,

Sirhr

 

[Dan M]

With the trigger group removed, there should be no (zero) fore and aft movement of the receiver in the stock...if there is movement, accuracy will suffer. Also, when closing the trigger guard after reinstalling the trigger group, you should feel resistance as the hook of the guard passes the tip of the trigger...if it just flops closed the stock has compressed wood (and/or deformed locking lugs) and accuracy will suffer. Scott Duff’s The M1 Garand: Owner’s Guide is a good book to pick up for the basics.

I own a lot of M1 rifles...All collectables and one CMP service grade shooter. A service grade rifle from the CMP will be a safe bet, they are accurately graded.

ETA- you could luck into a great rifle on the open market..If you can evaluate a specimen and possess the correct armorers gauges. The CMP
service grade is an excellent value for what they are charging. They have been gauged by armorers during the grading process.

 

[hlee]

@SwiftScope Got a C&R license?

"Rifle shipments to CA must be made to a State licensed dealer or may be made to individual homes, providing that a CA Certificate of Eligibility and a Curio and Relic License are provided."

http://thecmp.org/cmp_sales/rifle_sales/

 

[Centuriator]

Realize that the vast majority of M1 Garands for sale today are not all original and certainliy not all "matching parts" - unless you want to spend $10,000. The receiver may have been made during WWII but the various parts on it are from all over, and therefore they are called "mixmasters" and they were often arsenal barrelled after the war.

I went through a serious Garand phase and bought all WWII part models, and shot them and enjoyed it, than I made a KILLING selling them a few years later when the market was great for them.

 

[SwiftScope]

@SwiftScope Got a C&R license?

"Rifle shipments to CA must be made to a State licensed dealer or may be made to individual homes, providing that a CA Certificate of Eligibility and a Curio and Relic License are provided."

http://thecmp.org/cmp_sales/rifle_sales/

I do not but I will look into this for sure

 

[SwiftScope]

this is why i love this site, i have learned more in a few hours than i ever could have imagined, thank you all

 

[Zeroit]

I own a number of m1 carbines did a lot of research same game. A lot of great information from above posts. Get the best book(s) you can find on them join a club online such as m1 collectors club that is affiliated with the CMP file ATF form for curios and relics that takes about 4 ish months that will give time to do your homework and gather funds. You can find sometimes a good deal on M1's some have been through CMP. Patients is a virtue. Good luck

 

[SwiftScope]

I own a number of m1 carbines did a lot of research same game. A lot of great information from above posts. Get the best book(s) you can find on them join a club online such as m1 collectors club that is affiliated with the CMP file ATF form for curios and relics that takes about 4 ish months that will give time to do your homework and gather funds. You can find sometimes a good deal on M1's some have been through CMP. Patients is a virtue. Good luck

Do I just go to the ATF website for the form?

 

[Sooter76]

Just go they the CMP, otherwise you’re gonna overpay...

 

[Zeroit]

Do I just go to the ATF website for the form?

Yes cost 30.00 good for 3 years. Print the forms. Just be anal when you fill out follow the instructions to a T. There is probably a YouTube and other help out there it's not hard.

 

[SwiftScope]

Yes cost 30.00 good for 3 years. Print the forms. Just be anal when you fill out follow the instructions to a T. There is probably a YouTube and other help out there it's not hard.

Awesome, thanks!

 

[sport10990]

Yep, just opened pandoras box. As others have stated, just go to CMP and get you a nice service grade for $750. But if you want to get specific. Which manufacturer? In order of rarity/most wanted, it goes International Harvester, Winchester, H&R, and Springfield. A Winchester will be a guaranteed WW2 as they only made them then. IHC and H&R will be post war and SA will be either or. The best fit and finish for Garands have been H&R or late SA in the 5.25 mil serial number and up. For collecting, original barrel is a big deal and you will find the chamber is in the white if original, parked if not. I think WW2 rifles are cooler if they have the original inspectors cartouche vice the DoD eagle and stars that started in the mid 50s. But if you want a good shooter, usually want the muzzle wear to be less than 3. I have a 44 SA that I've hit steel out to 500 yards and I have Winchester M1D (sniper configuration) with a 2.5x power M84 scope that I've been able to hit steel at 800 yards. Both of the muzzles measure a 1 on my gauge. The nicest of the rebuilds have been known to be Letterkenny which are marked LEAD then the month and year (ex 1-67) on the receiver legs. Of course there is a bunch of sub categories into collecting such as Win-13's and Marine Corps rebuilds, but yeah just go to CMP if you just want an honest M1 Garand but make sure you get a service grade or better. (although some of the field grades people have been receiving have been very nice with original GI wood.)

 

[SwiftScope]

Yep, just opened pandoras box. As others have stated, just go to CMP and get you a nice service grade for $750. But if you want to get specific. Which manufacturer? In order of rarity/most wanted, it goes International Harvester, Winchester, H&R, and Springfield. A Winchester will be a guaranteed WW2 as they only made them then. IHC and H&R will be post war and SA will be either or. The best fit and finish for Garands have been H&R or late SA in the 5.25 mil serial number and up. For collecting, original barrel is a big deal and you will find the chamber is in the white if original, parked if not. I think WW2 rifles are cooler if they have the original inspectors cartouche vice the DoD eagle and stars that started in the mid 50s. But if you want a good shooter, usually want the muzzle wear to be less than 3. I have a 44 SA that I've hit steel out to 500 yards and I have Winchester M1D (sniper configuration) with a 2.5x power M84 scope that I've been able to hit steel at 800 yards. Both of the muzzles measure a 1 on my gauge. The nicest of the rebuilds have been known to be Letterkenny which are marked LEAD then the month and year (ex 1-67) on the receiver legs. Of course there is a bunch of sub categories into collecting such as Win-13's and Marine Corps rebuilds, but yeah just go to CMP if you just want an honest M1 Garand but make sure you get a service grade or better. (although some of the field grades people have been receiving have been very nice with original GI wood.)

Thank you, this is a really helpful post!!

 

[SwiftScope]

Here is the link for the garand club. As stated above, to buy at CMP, you need to be a member of an affilated shooting club first. Maybe you are aleady, if you you need to send in the forms to CMP with proof of your affiliated club memebership. If not, then like said above the garand club is cheapest and fastest, only $25/year, and they will send your proof of membership directly over to CMP. if you do buy from CMP, and you want a WWII era gun with an original barrel ( or some other request, like an HRA instead of a Springfield), put a yellow sticky on your order, with your request written out on it that sometimes works if they have one on the pallet they are shipping out when they process your order. They are happy to help. They are shipping the ones they got from Phillipines now and some are nice. But for the price you can't beat the deal...

http://thegca.org/

Thanks, yeah I've pretty much decided that the CMP is the way to go for me. I will definitely join the club

 

[Zeroit]

There is couple of good books that have very detailed information on the subject matter my carbine book was written by R C Larson I think he does one for garands. That way you know a little of what you're looking at and for.

 

[SwiftScope]

On the CMP i notice that the special tiers have brand new stocks, are these like CMP branded factory new or are they refinished originals? And does having a non-period brand new stock diminish the value?

 

[sport10990]

On the CMP i notice that the special tiers have brand new stocks, are these like CMP branded factory new or are they refinished originals? And does having a non-period brand new stock diminish the value?

The CMP has been sending out rifles with 3 different types of stocks. 1) Original USGI Wood. If the cartouche/inspector initials are correct for the serial number, yes it will help the value of the rifle. If not, people are always selling stocks on the CMP forum. 2) A Boyd's Walnut stock and instead of the DoD Eagle with 3 stars, the cartouche is the DoD eagle but instead of 3 stars, it has C M P above it. 3) Hackberry Wood stocks. These are horrible, don't look anything like GI. They don't even have the hole cut out in the butt for a cleaning kit. The first set they sent out were an ugly red but they since have trashed those and went to a darker hackberry stain. Many people who get this, take them off and buy whichever stock is correct for their serial number. The specials will pretty much be brand new rifles. The receivers will be original but it will be reparkerized and a brand new barrel (Criterion) either in your flavor of 30-06 or 308. These rifles don't necessarily hold the "collector" value since they have been reworked by a non military arsenal. If you buy a IHC, chances are you could get a LMR barrel which are considered the best American barrels made for the garands. Also, late 60's SA barrels were considered excellent.

 

[Sooter76]

To be fair, while Hackberry in general are horrible looking stocks, I have seen a few from CMP members who refinished them into some very attractive stocks.