Rifle Scopes What's the Hide using to clean their glass?
- Thread starter prskiller
- Start date
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...+pen&sprefix=lens,aps,1749&crid=3BP63AOCIQDEK
Lens pens are cheap and ok, but I don't like to over use them. I only use a lens pen if there is a lot of gunk on it otherwise I use https://www.amazon.com/Zeiss-Pre-Mo...0002742&sr=8-4&keywords=lens+wipes+for+camera wipes.
Lens pens are cheap and ok, but I don't like to over use them. I only use a lens pen if there is a lot of gunk on it otherwise I use https://www.amazon.com/Zeiss-Pre-Mo...0002742&sr=8-4&keywords=lens+wipes+for+camera wipes.
I use a Leupold Lens Pen has a retractable brush and
is easily popped into a coat pocket.
There are some excellent lens cloths and brushes available from photographic shops, as well as dedicated scope cleaning kits
There are some excellent lens cloths and brushes available from photographic shops, as well as dedicated scope cleaning kits
First and foremost, you need to irrigate all the shit off the lenses that you can. I recommend keeping it simple...Windex in a spray bottle. Spray that on there liberally and from close range, and a lot of the dirt, rock, metal, AC/DC particles, etc. will be flushed off the lens and out of the lens recess if you do so upside down (the scope, not you).
Windex irrigation is even better than compressed air because 1) it doesn't have any additives that will leave residue on it's own, and (2) it helps to lubricate the particles of crap and buffer them from the lens while they are moving across it.
Only when that's done should you progress to using cloth, cotton balls, swabs, etc. to clean the lens further.
I prefer to clean with 90% isopropyl and/or acetone. Keep the acetone off any rubber seals, etc, and do NOT flush with it. Only swabs.
Always ALWAYS swab from the center outward. The grit and shit that DOESN'T get out of the lens recess will collect at the edges. If you START at the edges, then you are basically electing to abrade the rest of the lens inward. And the swabs are like barrel brushes: it's a one way street.
-Nate
Windex irrigation is even better than compressed air because 1) it doesn't have any additives that will leave residue on it's own, and (2) it helps to lubricate the particles of crap and buffer them from the lens while they are moving across it.
Only when that's done should you progress to using cloth, cotton balls, swabs, etc. to clean the lens further.
I prefer to clean with 90% isopropyl and/or acetone. Keep the acetone off any rubber seals, etc, and do NOT flush with it. Only swabs.
Always ALWAYS swab from the center outward. The grit and shit that DOESN'T get out of the lens recess will collect at the edges. If you START at the edges, then you are basically electing to abrade the rest of the lens inward. And the swabs are like barrel brushes: it's a one way street.
-Nate
"Duster" compressed gas can or clean, soft bristle brush to gently remove the dust/grit. (See no problem with "hosing" down wet on 100% water-proof optics)
Then a 1/2 cotton ball spun on a Q-tip and slightly soaked with 90% Isopropanol or Windex. As mentioned above, from center outward.
Gently dry and clean with the other half of the cotton ball on another Q tip, also from center outward.
Have been doing that for over 30 years, sometimes daily when optic is in use, and no scratch or abrasion of coating ever.
NEVER use your shirt, kitchen towels, etc. especially not when dry.
Then a 1/2 cotton ball spun on a Q-tip and slightly soaked with 90% Isopropanol or Windex. As mentioned above, from center outward.
Gently dry and clean with the other half of the cotton ball on another Q tip, also from center outward.
Have been doing that for over 30 years, sometimes daily when optic is in use, and no scratch or abrasion of coating ever.
NEVER use your shirt, kitchen towels, etc. especially not when dry.
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Yeah, and I shouldn't represent that I've never used air. I keep a can in my shooting gear all the time to blow off a spotting scope, or clean out a stubborn particle or water drop out of an aperture. But I still think fluid is a "best practice".
Now about the waterproof scope thing...WATER is one thing, ACETONE is another. I happily flush the snot out of all lens surfaces with something less than acetone, but I just feel that soaking the locking rings and so forth with something as strong as acetone is asking for trouble.
-Nate
The answer, unless you hear it straight from your scope manufacturer, is a resounding no.
Acetone has been an industry standard cleaner for glass elements for about forever, and is used to clean lens elements that are a far sight more expensive than anything in our scopes, coated or uncoated.
It just needs to stay away from anything rubber or plastic. Like stocks, paint (although cerakote and the like will shrug it off), rubber O-rings (but if butyl rubber, probably would be fine), turret seals, etc.
-Nate
Since I do lot's of fiber optic work i have access to lots of good lens cleaning supplies.
100 percent isopropyl is rather cheap and does wonders on lens. The stuff at the drug store is not 100 percent its about 90 %. Still works well.
The wipes we used are handi-wipes/tech wipes for fiber optics 10 bucks for a lifetime supply at the local low voltage fiber optics store in your area. They will have the 100 percent stuff to.
100 percent isopropyl is rather cheap and does wonders on lens. The stuff at the drug store is not 100 percent its about 90 %. Still works well.
The wipes we used are handi-wipes/tech wipes for fiber optics 10 bucks for a lifetime supply at the local low voltage fiber optics store in your area. They will have the 100 percent stuff to.
Windex has ammonia and eats tint? Sure that's safe to use on glass with coatings etc?
as someone who owned a video and photography company, yes ALWAYS clean from the center out, it makes a difference over the years
eh, I take it that my practice of putting them In the dishwasher is a no go?
I just sit on top of my car with my rifle as I go through the car wash.
Oddly enough that's how we were instructed to clean our "BIG EYES" ships 20 power over sized binoculars. As well as the parabolic reflector in our 12 inch signal lights back in the late 70's
No way in hell I would ever use acetone on a $3K+ rifle scope, but this is the absolute best thing I have used on screens and lens.......... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOPW5L...543-9d50-f7bacd2a1f15&hsa_cr_id=4712810070501
D
Deleted member 10043
Guest
Rubbing alcohol 70%. Don't use Windex. It is not recommended for prescription glasses why would you use it on scope glass. Anyway, it will get pretty dirty before I clean them.
D
Deleted member 10043
Guest
My problem with 70% is that the water content can bead up and leave spots.
But SLX Denatured is a bad idea because it can have fiberglass additive.
Windex is fine for flushing, and for the record...and it's a yuge difference....almost all ophthalmic lenses are made of one of several plastics.
Scope lenses, even the shit-tastic Chicom paintball scope in your trash drawer from when you were a wee tike, are all a version of glass.
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D
Deleted member 10043
Guest
The water blends with the alcohol and evaporates. 90% will evaporate too quick. My eye doctor gave me a bottle of branded glass cleaner than told me to refill with 70%. Water builds up in your gas tank. Pour a bottle of 70 or 90% in the tank to blend the water with the gas and allow it to become combustible. We don't do that anymore because they add ethanol now. But this is the Hide and if somebody bottled and labeled rubbing alcohol specifically for scopes he can probably sell small bottles for $19.98. They don't call it rubbing alcohol for nothing.
buy a box open a packet and smell it and i bet its rubbing alcohol thats packaged for Zeiss...and with Zeiss printed on the box im pretty sure its ok to use.
It is. They also work fine for hand wipes. They are all over my gear so I always can find one in a hurry.
Just be careful you don't leave the ripped open packets all over the place....those square wrappers..
Y
90% is fine. 70% is too, but it DOES water bead on the objective lens, regardless of what your Optometrist told you.
I'd be lying if I said I had not used all of the above, but again, we're answering questions in 'ideals'.
You speak in theoreticals, yet I know in truths.
90% is fine. 70% is too, but it DOES water bead on the objective lens, regardless of what your Optometrist told you.
I'd be lying if I said I had not used all of the above, but again, we're answering questions in 'ideals'.
The Zeiss wipes left my prescription glasses completely ruined within about 2 years. For my next pair I switched to washing them with dish soap and water or alcohol based lens cleaner and a soft cotton cloth - replacement pair of glasses still look new after 2 years. I don't trust the Zeiss wipes after that experience.
There are many good answers here. What we do at the shop is:
Simply put- heavy particulates use a water flush or mild detergent flush with lens being cleaned facing down
. Light particulates can be sprayed off with air. It should be mentioned that in no circumstance should you ever use on a hot lens or shake or turn the air can upside down as the sudden freezing air from the propellant can crack the lens being cleaned. I use air as a last resort and only with precautions.
Once all particulates are removed you can use high quality acetone found at hardware stores- not your wife's fingernail polish remover. I use sterile, lint free swabs from a company called texwipe. These work great and I have been using them for 18 years with no problems. Shake off the excess acetone and as stated many times above start at center and work your way out to the edge, then clean your swab by swishing it around in the acetone, repeat until lens is clean, I change swabs out after every few swipes since they are cheap and if they have caught any particulates you don't want them scratching the lens.
There may still be some smaller spots that acetone just can't seem to get off, these are usually water spots or on ocular lenses where someone may have sneezed on it, these spots can be removed either by breathing on them or applying a little bit of spit and then using the swab. Spit and breathing on these little spots will work as long as you swab while the area is still wet. Then clean with acetone again and those spots should disappear.
I don't like using wipes as some of the material can be abrasive and over time can cause microscopic scratches that eventually turn into visible deformations in the coating. Many times these wipes will cause visible scratches in plastic lenses like eyeglasses so that tells me they have some porosity to them.
On any quality lens quality acetone is a fine cleaner and will not harm the lens or coatings. At least every scope I have cleaned in 18 years never had a problem with acetone and it is the standard for the scope industry.
Simply put- heavy particulates use a water flush or mild detergent flush with lens being cleaned facing down
. Light particulates can be sprayed off with air. It should be mentioned that in no circumstance should you ever use on a hot lens or shake or turn the air can upside down as the sudden freezing air from the propellant can crack the lens being cleaned. I use air as a last resort and only with precautions.
Once all particulates are removed you can use high quality acetone found at hardware stores- not your wife's fingernail polish remover. I use sterile, lint free swabs from a company called texwipe. These work great and I have been using them for 18 years with no problems. Shake off the excess acetone and as stated many times above start at center and work your way out to the edge, then clean your swab by swishing it around in the acetone, repeat until lens is clean, I change swabs out after every few swipes since they are cheap and if they have caught any particulates you don't want them scratching the lens.
There may still be some smaller spots that acetone just can't seem to get off, these are usually water spots or on ocular lenses where someone may have sneezed on it, these spots can be removed either by breathing on them or applying a little bit of spit and then using the swab. Spit and breathing on these little spots will work as long as you swab while the area is still wet. Then clean with acetone again and those spots should disappear.
I don't like using wipes as some of the material can be abrasive and over time can cause microscopic scratches that eventually turn into visible deformations in the coating. Many times these wipes will cause visible scratches in plastic lenses like eyeglasses so that tells me they have some porosity to them.
On any quality lens quality acetone is a fine cleaner and will not harm the lens or coatings. At least every scope I have cleaned in 18 years never had a problem with acetone and it is the standard for the scope industry.
I use the Leupold Lens pen brush, and buy a generic equivalent of the wet lens wipes in bulk for my optics and also for my plastic eyeglass lenses which are especially subject to scratches. Since I can't use bifocals, I need to carry two pairs of glasses and lens cleaning becomes an occupational hazard, especially with all that dust here in the AZ High Desert. There can be abrasion issue with some dry wipes, but optician advice these days is to clean the lenses wet so dust can't do its worst.
Dust is the real problem.
If my memory serves, Acetone was cleared for optical cleanser use on many lens and optically transparent window coatings. Not sure about all of them. We had a lot of coatings applications back then at Razdow Labs. We also produced the Apollo Command Module Windows. Back then our coatings were applied using Vacuum Evaporative Deposition at Spectrum Labs.
Greg
Dust is the real problem.
If my memory serves, Acetone was cleared for optical cleanser use on many lens and optically transparent window coatings. Not sure about all of them. We had a lot of coatings applications back then at Razdow Labs. We also produced the Apollo Command Module Windows. Back then our coatings were applied using Vacuum Evaporative Deposition at Spectrum Labs.
Greg
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A few comment: lens pen works well when it is new. Overtime, it accumulates abrasive material and basically becomes very fine sandpaper.
Windex is not really a very good thing to use on coated optics. Some coatings resist it just fine, while others do not. What is als important is that Windex gets into the smallest gaps and corrodes seals.
Acetone is mostly safe, but try to not get it onto any seals.
Never clean a lend dry.
ILya
Windex is not really a very good thing to use on coated optics. Some coatings resist it just fine, while others do not. What is als important is that Windex gets into the smallest gaps and corrodes seals.
Acetone is mostly safe, but try to not get it onto any seals.
Never clean a lend dry.
ILya
Avoid cleaning in the field, only do when really dirty and you need to. I keep a lenspen, in a bag nowhere near other cleaning supplies so it doesn't get oily. But I use it once every two years.
At home, have a small bottle of Windex and a box of KimWipes. Speciality optical cleaning tissues. Probably others work as well like the Zeiss ones, but these are a known item to me from scanning and photo stuff I did at Hallmark years ago so I stuck with them.
At home, have a small bottle of Windex and a box of KimWipes. Speciality optical cleaning tissues. Probably others work as well like the Zeiss ones, but these are a known item to me from scanning and photo stuff I did at Hallmark years ago so I stuck with them.
I've used this with solid results:
Cameras, scopes, binos ect.
Keeping a clean microfiber cloth as well.
Goes in the range bag.
R
Cameras, scopes, binos ect.
Keeping a clean microfiber cloth as well.
Goes in the range bag.
R
I'm a total spaz when it comes to keeping glass from becoming dirty in the first place....so it is very rare when I need to clean.
Even the most basic shooting in a clean environment on a bench you will eventually get small particles on the glass and it will build up. NEVER wipe it or brush it as a first step. Just moving abrasives around on the lens. Instead, wash it off with some gentle clean water flow. Get as much off as possible that way. Don't use compressed air, that just blasts particles around that etch marks into the glass. Think sandblast effect.
Once as much crap is removed as possible...lens pen brush is fine, or zeiss wipe being very gentle. Wipe is better as you can use one part of the wipe per pass so as to not keep wiping with the contaminates. Brush becomes contaminated quickly and then is impossible to clean. You'll be forced to use some kind of chemical based cleaner if you expect to remove anything oily or greasy such as finger prints. Regular wiping just smears it around and polishes the oil onto the lens. Soap is no good, leaves a film....
Watching a few "how it is made" and "factory tour" videos from several high-end optics manufactuers, several use cotton swabs with acetone to clean lenses before assembling them. I would confirm with manufacturer first as different companies have different coatings and also the objective and ocular lens may very well have different coatings than the internal lenses and they may clean these differently.
Many companies will say they have super tough coatings and not to worry about it. I'm sure they're tough, but at the same time I imagine they can be worn down or degraded. Professionals who are either sponsorted, or military/police may not care as much as a $3,500 scope isn't coming out of their pocket and they have procurement schedules that replaces equipment. So their standards may not be what you want your standards to be.
Even the most basic shooting in a clean environment on a bench you will eventually get small particles on the glass and it will build up. NEVER wipe it or brush it as a first step. Just moving abrasives around on the lens. Instead, wash it off with some gentle clean water flow. Get as much off as possible that way. Don't use compressed air, that just blasts particles around that etch marks into the glass. Think sandblast effect.
Once as much crap is removed as possible...lens pen brush is fine, or zeiss wipe being very gentle. Wipe is better as you can use one part of the wipe per pass so as to not keep wiping with the contaminates. Brush becomes contaminated quickly and then is impossible to clean. You'll be forced to use some kind of chemical based cleaner if you expect to remove anything oily or greasy such as finger prints. Regular wiping just smears it around and polishes the oil onto the lens. Soap is no good, leaves a film....
Watching a few "how it is made" and "factory tour" videos from several high-end optics manufactuers, several use cotton swabs with acetone to clean lenses before assembling them. I would confirm with manufacturer first as different companies have different coatings and also the objective and ocular lens may very well have different coatings than the internal lenses and they may clean these differently.
Many companies will say they have super tough coatings and not to worry about it. I'm sure they're tough, but at the same time I imagine they can be worn down or degraded. Professionals who are either sponsorted, or military/police may not care as much as a $3,500 scope isn't coming out of their pocket and they have procurement schedules that replaces equipment. So their standards may not be what you want your standards to be.
I am an UW photographer and have used 'Kimwipes' (Kimtech) and you buy them by the (small) box (B&H Photo carries these). Along with these I use Vision Care' s Anti-Reflective, Anti-Static Glass or Plastic Lens Cleaner (comes in a small spray bottle); Zeiss (mentioned earlier) makes something similar, for years on my (expensive)camera lenses. Start, as others have said, with Luepold's lens pen. & as others have posted, start from the center and work toward the edges.
I put some Kimwipes and my cleaning fluid in a zippie and it goes in my kit, to the range or field. Here is a tip- don't clean your lenses unless they need to be cleaned.
I would not use Windex.
I put some Kimwipes and my cleaning fluid in a zippie and it goes in my kit, to the range or field. Here is a tip- don't clean your lenses unless they need to be cleaned.
I would not use Windex.
Some questionable responses, some weird responses, some funny responses and some great responses... the problem for the OP and others looking to glean good information is how do you figure out from the menagerie of responses which is "best"... welcome to the internet. So I will add to the list of responses here and preface by saying that I have a professional photography background so in dealing with camera lenses and, later on, digital sensors (or rather the glass the covers the sensor) you have a very similar system to what we have in all optics - glass elements that have multicoating applied. While most manufacturers today use techniques with both glass and multicoating that help resist against scratches, any surface is prone to being scratched and a scratch is permanent, once there it cannot be fixed other than sending to the manufacturer, so the very first priority when considering cleaning the front or rear objective of your expensive scope is to reduce the possibility of scratching that surface. Dust may seem harmless enough, but even the tiniest dust spec can cause a scratch so I go through the following steps in order to minimize damaging the glass on my scope.
STEP 1 - Does the glass really need to be cleaned?
The first step is to assess whether or not the glass surface actually needs to be cleaned. There is no need to "assume" you should clean your glass, take a look at it and if at first glance you don't see much (a few dust particles are not going to hurt the view through the scope) then don't sweat it and keep on shooting, in fact, your glass can get pretty dirty before your eye will start to notice a degradation.
STEP 2 - Clean the glass without touching it
As others have mentioned, before you wipe your glass with anything it is crucial that you remove as much debris as possible without actually touching the glass. I typically use a can of compressed air, the kind you can get at Costco, Walmart, Best Buy, et al. I also understand that the most anal of us would not recommend compressed air as there can be additives that might make their way onto the glass surface, also, if the can is used improperly you can end up spraying the liquid fluorocarbons (or whatever they're using these days) onto the glass surface so proceed with caution and make sure you don't shake the can or use it at an angle that would allow the liquid to spray out. If the compressed air makes you nervous I highly recommend the American Recorder Tech Deluxe Large Sensor Cleaning Kit that you can get from a good camera store, what I like about this kit is the portability of the small CO2 blaster and the specialized CO2 cartridges it comes with (WARNING: DO NOT USE REGULAR CO2 CARTRIDGES AS THEY CONTAIN OILS AND CONTAMINANTS) it also has an optical cleaning fluid and some swab wipes; however, the fluid it comes with is not very quick drying and I prefer optical cleaners that dry a bit quicker (see next section). But this is a handy little kit to keep in your range go bag. Another great option that doesn't require any kind of compressed gasses is the Rocket Blaster which is just a photographic quality bulb that sucks in air and blasts it out when you squeeze the bulb (just make sure you keep it clean and away from dirt and dust - I keep mine in a ziploc bag). So now that you've cleared your glass surface of as much debris as possible without touching it, if you still notice some schmutz on the objective you may need to go to the next step. One final hint, if you're using an ARD or sunshade off the front objective remove it before blasting air because these items will help to trap debris inside which could find their way back onto the objective.
STEP 3 - Clean the glass surface with a lens cloth or cotton swab
Can you use your shirt or cotton rag to clean your lens? Sure you can; however, we are trying to remove contaminants not add them, your shirt could have oils from your skin, dirt that the wind has blown on it or that you picked up by leaning against something, etc. so it's typically unwise to use a regular cloth or t-shirt to clean. Can you use a micro fiber cleaning cloth, again yes, but any cloth holds the potential of collecting other contaminants over time so I prefer to use disposable cloth wipes that you use once and toss. My preference is to use Pec Pads, I have been using these for years with great success, they are lint free and non-abrasive and should be available at a local camera store, they come in a plastic wrapper but I also store mine inside a ziploc bag as added protection to help keep dust away. My first line of defense when using the cloth to get some spots off the lens is to use my breath to form a light film of condensation on the glass surface which I then wipe off in a circular motion working my way from the center out. If the schmutz persists its time to go to the final step. Warning, when using any cloth it is very important that you keep your fingers on the opposite side of the lens cloth because your fingers/skin contains oils which can smear your glass surface, never turn the cloth over to use the other side when you've already placed your fingers on that side because the cloth can now transfer those oils. Sometimes there may be just a "spec" on the glass surface that doesn't require you to wipe the entire surface, in these instances you can use a cotton swab, I prefer the 6" swabs with wooden handles as these give me more distance and are more sturdy than something like Q-tips, and I believe the cotton they use in these swabs or more free of lint and debris, I also keep these swabs inside their bag with only a small hole cut in the corner so I can remove one at a time and eliminate the possibility of contaminates getting on them. Tip: these swabs are also great for cleaning rifles and pistols in hard to reach places.
STEP 4 - Use a quick dry liquid safe for coated optics
There are two liquids that I prefer, the first is from Lens Clens 1 and is specially designed for multicoated glass surfaces, it is a great liquid that dries quickly and I will apply just a drop or two on a 4x4 pec pad and start from the center and work my way out in a circular motion. The second liquid I recommend is Visible Dust Sensor Clean Solution which not only has cleaning properties but also dust repellent properties and anti-fogging capabilities. When you first wipe the glass with the moist cloth you might notice some streaking of the liquid, this is okay, once the liquid dries I then use a dry pec pad to wipe from center out and that removes any residue the liquid may have left. Using this method, I have been able to restore my glass to its original clean state with minimal effort. One final thought, do not overdo it on how much liquid you use with a lens cloth or swab, just one or two drops is more than enough, in fact, I've had my 1-3/4 oz bottle of Lens Clens 1 for over 10 years now and I've only used half of it which is mostly due to step 1 and 2 above as 90% of the time a blast of air will clean the surface sufficiently enough and if I don't have to touch the glass surface with anything then that is the best option.
So in summary:
STEP 1 - Does the glass really need to be cleaned?
The first step is to assess whether or not the glass surface actually needs to be cleaned. There is no need to "assume" you should clean your glass, take a look at it and if at first glance you don't see much (a few dust particles are not going to hurt the view through the scope) then don't sweat it and keep on shooting, in fact, your glass can get pretty dirty before your eye will start to notice a degradation.
STEP 2 - Clean the glass without touching it
As others have mentioned, before you wipe your glass with anything it is crucial that you remove as much debris as possible without actually touching the glass. I typically use a can of compressed air, the kind you can get at Costco, Walmart, Best Buy, et al. I also understand that the most anal of us would not recommend compressed air as there can be additives that might make their way onto the glass surface, also, if the can is used improperly you can end up spraying the liquid fluorocarbons (or whatever they're using these days) onto the glass surface so proceed with caution and make sure you don't shake the can or use it at an angle that would allow the liquid to spray out. If the compressed air makes you nervous I highly recommend the American Recorder Tech Deluxe Large Sensor Cleaning Kit that you can get from a good camera store, what I like about this kit is the portability of the small CO2 blaster and the specialized CO2 cartridges it comes with (WARNING: DO NOT USE REGULAR CO2 CARTRIDGES AS THEY CONTAIN OILS AND CONTAMINANTS) it also has an optical cleaning fluid and some swab wipes; however, the fluid it comes with is not very quick drying and I prefer optical cleaners that dry a bit quicker (see next section). But this is a handy little kit to keep in your range go bag. Another great option that doesn't require any kind of compressed gasses is the Rocket Blaster which is just a photographic quality bulb that sucks in air and blasts it out when you squeeze the bulb (just make sure you keep it clean and away from dirt and dust - I keep mine in a ziploc bag). So now that you've cleared your glass surface of as much debris as possible without touching it, if you still notice some schmutz on the objective you may need to go to the next step. One final hint, if you're using an ARD or sunshade off the front objective remove it before blasting air because these items will help to trap debris inside which could find their way back onto the objective.
STEP 3 - Clean the glass surface with a lens cloth or cotton swab
Can you use your shirt or cotton rag to clean your lens? Sure you can; however, we are trying to remove contaminants not add them, your shirt could have oils from your skin, dirt that the wind has blown on it or that you picked up by leaning against something, etc. so it's typically unwise to use a regular cloth or t-shirt to clean. Can you use a micro fiber cleaning cloth, again yes, but any cloth holds the potential of collecting other contaminants over time so I prefer to use disposable cloth wipes that you use once and toss. My preference is to use Pec Pads, I have been using these for years with great success, they are lint free and non-abrasive and should be available at a local camera store, they come in a plastic wrapper but I also store mine inside a ziploc bag as added protection to help keep dust away. My first line of defense when using the cloth to get some spots off the lens is to use my breath to form a light film of condensation on the glass surface which I then wipe off in a circular motion working my way from the center out. If the schmutz persists its time to go to the final step. Warning, when using any cloth it is very important that you keep your fingers on the opposite side of the lens cloth because your fingers/skin contains oils which can smear your glass surface, never turn the cloth over to use the other side when you've already placed your fingers on that side because the cloth can now transfer those oils. Sometimes there may be just a "spec" on the glass surface that doesn't require you to wipe the entire surface, in these instances you can use a cotton swab, I prefer the 6" swabs with wooden handles as these give me more distance and are more sturdy than something like Q-tips, and I believe the cotton they use in these swabs or more free of lint and debris, I also keep these swabs inside their bag with only a small hole cut in the corner so I can remove one at a time and eliminate the possibility of contaminates getting on them. Tip: these swabs are also great for cleaning rifles and pistols in hard to reach places.
STEP 4 - Use a quick dry liquid safe for coated optics
There are two liquids that I prefer, the first is from Lens Clens 1 and is specially designed for multicoated glass surfaces, it is a great liquid that dries quickly and I will apply just a drop or two on a 4x4 pec pad and start from the center and work my way out in a circular motion. The second liquid I recommend is Visible Dust Sensor Clean Solution which not only has cleaning properties but also dust repellent properties and anti-fogging capabilities. When you first wipe the glass with the moist cloth you might notice some streaking of the liquid, this is okay, once the liquid dries I then use a dry pec pad to wipe from center out and that removes any residue the liquid may have left. Using this method, I have been able to restore my glass to its original clean state with minimal effort. One final thought, do not overdo it on how much liquid you use with a lens cloth or swab, just one or two drops is more than enough, in fact, I've had my 1-3/4 oz bottle of Lens Clens 1 for over 10 years now and I've only used half of it which is mostly due to step 1 and 2 above as 90% of the time a blast of air will clean the surface sufficiently enough and if I don't have to touch the glass surface with anything then that is the best option.
So in summary:
- Does the glass really need to be cleaned?
- Most of the time a blast of air is sufficient to clean the glass surface of any debris
- Use a lint free, disposable lens cloth or high quality cotton swab
- Use a liquid made for multicoated glass surfaces that dries quickly
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