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whats your favorite anti cant level
- Thread starter ctso030
- Start date
Accuracy 1ST is my fav....I have had several it seems the best
A buttpad that allows you to adjust cant.
I still use a vortex lo pro level on most of my scopes but I spend ALOT less time looking at them now and it wouldn’t bother me if they weren’t there.
I still use a vortex lo pro level on most of my scopes but I spend ALOT less time looking at them now and it wouldn’t bother me if they weren’t there.
I'd like to throw mine in the ring. No need for articulation because the vial is in the right spot IMO. One bolt to tighten, easy install, priced right, and higher quality than others I've had in hand.
If you don't mind me commenting on my limited experieces ........
I have a Flatline Ops and a Vortex LoPro. The Flatline Ops works well. The LoPro is really sluggish to respond to cant changes.
I have a Flatline Ops and a Vortex LoPro. The Flatline Ops works well. The LoPro is really sluggish to respond to cant changes.
Flatline ....mine attaches to the pic rail under the scope and folds nicely out of the way to minimize snagging on other gear.
Vortex Lo Pro level. When mounted I can see it right over the parallax knob easily when behind the scope. Mounts to tube so you can be sure it's level unlike rail mounted levels which I have seen too often being off due to machining tolerances.
Vortex Lo Pro level. When mounted I can see it right over the parallax knob easily when behind the scope. Mounts to tube so you can be sure it's level unlike rail mounted levels which I have seen too often being off due to machining tolerances.
If you like the Vortex one, I'll give you one of mine at cost to try out. I think you'll find it to be essentially a higher quality/more durable version at a lower cost.
I like the HPR100 ... shows:
H(eading)
P(itch)
R(oll)
Usable day or night.
Heading shown in degrees, 0 thru 359.
The pitch is shown in both cosine and degrees.
The roll is shown in + degrees (if canted to the left, 0, thru 180)(if canted to the right, -1 through -179)
H(eading)
P(itch)
R(oll)
Usable day or night.
Heading shown in degrees, 0 thru 359.
The pitch is shown in both cosine and degrees.
The roll is shown in + degrees (if canted to the left, 0, thru 180)(if canted to the right, -1 through -179)
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US Optic, I can view it w my non dominate eye w/o breaking my cheek weld!!!!!
I use the vortex ones, I have no complaints. I need a new one or two for a new build, may look at MKM. Look nice. It’s a bubble so I really don’t have much issues, if you can see it I figure it’s GTG.
My MPA chassis has a level that uses a ball more dense than the fluid and I believe the tube is slightly curved upward which makes it more intuitive to adjust, you lean the way you want the ball to go instead of reverse with a bubble level.
The only problem is it's too close. When your eyes are getting old and don't like to focus up close any more, it's better to mount it forward where you can focus more easily.
If MK Machine made his clamp on with that level, I would buy several.
Other than that, my first anti-cant leyel was a 30mm Wheeler Engineering folding level mounted as far forward as I could. It's kind of bulky, even when folded but visibility is good. I haven't bothered to change it out yet.
The only problem is it's too close. When your eyes are getting old and don't like to focus up close any more, it's better to mount it forward where you can focus more easily.
If MK Machine made his clamp on with that level, I would buy several.
Other than that, my first anti-cant leyel was a 30mm Wheeler Engineering folding level mounted as far forward as I could. It's kind of bulky, even when folded but visibility is good. I haven't bothered to change it out yet.
Wheeler Eng. anti cant mounted on the rifle's rail. Easy to see and folds when casing. Took off my 34 mm Vortex, hard to see.
I stopped using them. I can tell if the rifle is level or canted as well as a spirit level. I never found myself getting on target, comming off it to check level, finding I’m canted when I thought I was level, and then getting back on it. In other words, I stopped looking at it except in practice with no time limit, and then I never found it disagreed with my eye and inner ear. Maybe I’m exceptional..., but I doubt it. I’ll bet most of us could get within 1% of true level without a spirit level. Maybe higher percision is necessary for ELR, which I don’t shoot, but I don’t feel like I’m dropping shots in the long stages because I don’t look at the level. I look at the reticle and level the rifle with my mind. Perhaps I deserve a major award for mental powers...
I have a very different experience, when I'm behind my rifle and aiming, pretty much every time I move my crosshairs to the target my cant changes enough that the bubble is at least 1/2 way across one of the lines.
I'm constantly resetting my level when I'm shooting 1,000 yards.
I don't have nearly as much 1,000 yard range time as I would like but it's so easy to throw off the cant that I doubt I'll ever be able to get rid of my level without destroying my accuracy.
I'm constantly resetting my level when I'm shooting 1,000 yards.
I don't have nearly as much 1,000 yard range time as I would like but it's so easy to throw off the cant that I doubt I'll ever be able to get rid of my level without destroying my accuracy.
I've used a few different types but for me the KAC anti cant level works the best. I'm able to maintain my cheek/firing position and remain on target and if needed using only eye moment glance down to confirm i'm level. They are small, out of the way and work.
I like the US Optics folding level. It folds in tight and rests against my Steiner rings.
I used to think my inner ear was better, when i lived in Oklahoma and was shooting on reasonably flat ground.
Now i do most of my shooting in the Cascade mountains, where absolutely nothing is flat.
When shooting prone on severely un-level ground, at a target that isnt level, on a surface that isnt level. All being canted to different amounts, in different directions, my inner ear is very wrong, very often.
Many times when i aim at the target and it feels level, i the open my left eye to look at the bubble, its all the way over.
I used to think my inner ear was better, when i lived in Oklahoma and was shooting on reasonably flat ground.
Now i do most of my shooting in the Cascade mountains, where absolutely nothing is flat.
When shooting prone on severely un-level ground, at a target that isnt level, on a surface that isnt level. All being canted to different amounts, in different directions, my inner ear is very wrong, very often.
Many times when i aim at the target and it feels level, i the open my left eye to look at the bubble, its all the way over.
There's no question a huge cant, like 5 degrees, will have a huge impact on accuracy at anything but close range. No one, not someone who's never looked through a scope, would look at a 5 degree cant and think it was level. We are usually talking about a degree or less than a degree, and I think it gets smaller and smaller with practice. I'd be interested to know how much cant there is when that bubble is on one line or the other...
I do agree that it is a hell of a lot harder to find level with your ear and eye off badly uneven shooting positions in mountains!!! I'm pretty sure I'd want to check cant with a level in that situation too.
I found this interesting...
On occasion I've shot a match with a 1,500 yard stage (and I do check the level then), but most of the time 1,200 yards is as far as I go. My scope revs out @ 1,600 yards, and my load goes transonic @ 1,370 yards, so I'm really not equipped at all for ELR.
I've never shot a mile, but I would guess a level is probably essential gear that far out assuming it's precise enough to knock that 1 deg down to a tenth or smaller fraction. .35 Mils is A LOT. I think if I shot more at extreme ranges I'd probably use the level more where getting fractions of a degree closer to true level will have a bigger impact.
I do agree that it is a hell of a lot harder to find level with your ear and eye off badly uneven shooting positions in mountains!!! I'm pretty sure I'd want to check cant with a level in that situation too.
I found this interesting...
On occasion I've shot a match with a 1,500 yard stage (and I do check the level then), but most of the time 1,200 yards is as far as I go. My scope revs out @ 1,600 yards, and my load goes transonic @ 1,370 yards, so I'm really not equipped at all for ELR.
I've never shot a mile, but I would guess a level is probably essential gear that far out assuming it's precise enough to knock that 1 deg down to a tenth or smaller fraction. .35 Mils is A LOT. I think if I shot more at extreme ranges I'd probably use the level more where getting fractions of a degree closer to true level will have a bigger impact.
I measured my USO level with my machinists protractor.
I zeroed the protractor with the USO bubble centered, protractor against the side of the buttstock squared to the kitchen table.
With the center of the bubble centered on either the left or right line, the protractor reads 1.5° from level.
I zeroed the protractor with the USO bubble centered, protractor against the side of the buttstock squared to the kitchen table.
With the center of the bubble centered on either the left or right line, the protractor reads 1.5° from level.
I guess nobody uses the one mounted within their inner ear?
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