Rifle Scopes what's your zero?

I personally zero for 100m to keep me from making a brainfart on where i am when the pressure is up (animal or competition stage etc)

Followup question on above: Do you guys zero for the Coldbore shot (CBS, CCBS etc) or the following shots that usually group together?
My gun consistently shoots 0.1mrad low on cleancoldbore and the groups following shots, i zero for following shots today and reduce by 0.1 on the CBS.
 
It depends. On my Ftr rifle it is zeroed at 300 yards because that is the primary distance for local matches, and only a minor tweak is needed as conditions change. For "tactical" shooting involving a multitude of distances I use 100yds because a wide variation in ambient conditions and even velocity will have little to no impact on the zero at 100. On the other hand when zeroed at a longer distance conditions have a significant impact, and if you do not hit dead zero is it due to the conditions or should you make a scope adjustment because something really changed? Also it helps to communicate since nearly everyone uses 100yd zero. Years ago I zeroed at 200yd but changed when I understood these potential errors could bite you.
 
It depends. On my Ftr rifle it is zeroed at 300 yards because that is the primary distance for local matches, and only a minor tweak is needed as conditions change. For "tactical" shooting involving a multitude of distances I use 100yds because a wide variation in ambient conditions and even velocity will have little to no impact on the zero at 100. On the other hand when zeroed at a longer distance conditions have a significant impact, and if you do not hit dead zero is it due to the conditions or should you make a scope adjustment because something really changed? Also it helps to communicate since nearly everyone uses 100yd zero. Years ago I zeroed at 200yd but changed when I understood these potential errors could bite you.

^^This^^

If your cold bore shot is really different, then make that mental adjustment for the cold bore shot. Caveat: If you are only using the rifle for hunting, then every first shot at game is cold bore and you need to plan accordingly. However, as has been discussed before at length, the majority of cold bore variation is usually due to cold shooter and not cold bore, with some possible exceptions.
 
My rifle is a tactical/competition rifle. So I zero at 100 yards (not for the cold bore). I make a mental note of where my CB shot is and adjust for that when I need to.
 
I zero at 100 yards as every range I need to go from there whether it be in to 10 yards or out to 1000 is dialing up. Makes it simple especially with a zero stop scope and for hold overs. I don;t have to worry about dialing down.
 
I zero all my rifles at 100 yards. As said before, getting a "real zero" at longer distances is very unreliable due to many variables involved (bullet velocity, weather condition, shooter position etc) that increase exponentially with the distance,
 
100 yards on all rifles. For the things that matter, CBS shouldnt be that far off and is a kill shot. Dont even bother worrying about it so i can make sure i have plenty of beer for my hunt.
 
100 yards for scoped rifles, except for the DMR running a Razor Gen II 1-6x with JM BDC reticle which requires a 200 yard zero.
I have a few AR-15s with iron or 1x (RDS, reflex, etc) sights which I zero at 50 yards, which places the POI +/- 3" the POA out to 225 yards or so.
 
I'm zeroed for 200yds with my CTR. My cold bore shot typically hits about .5 to .75 inch to the 1:00 at that range. At 100 I don't even think about it. Every other gun I own is zeroed for 100yds
 
For Coyote hunting AR15 with scope 0 at 200 yds , home defense AR15 ( maybe ) with red dot sight in at 50 yds , POF 308 with Trijicon Acog 100 yds , NEMO 308 20" barrel with Vortex Razor 3-18x50 not sight in ( 100 or 200 witch is best ? ? ? ) I only shooting like 100-300 far I go I think under 700 yds , Thanks
 
Mine are zeroed for 100, but when I'm hunting, I automatically dial to a 250 yard zero. That way there's no need for adjustment on close in shots to about about 300 or a bit further depending on cartridge..... those shots that tend to happen quickly, but I can still slow down and dial my dope for the long shots.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

 
I personally zero for 100m to keep me from making a brainfart on where i am when the pressure is up (animal or competition stage etc)

Followup question on above: Do you guys zero for the Coldbore shot (CBS, CCBS etc) or the following shots that usually group together?
My gun consistently shoots 0.1mrad low on cleancoldbore and the groups following shots, i zero for following shots today and reduce by 0.1 on the CBS.

All my hunting rifles are cold bore zeroed at 100 but i usually have scoped turned up to 250 as was mentioned above.

With my precision rifles, i usually take a few shots down range and then come back to 100 yard paper.
 
If the topic is about fundamentals the owner of this site will most likely have a video or an article on the public domain and it is often overlooked. It is one thing to say we use a 100 yard zero. It is another thing to explain why.

Google cached page from SCOUT...

http://webcache.googleusercontent.co...&ct=clnk&gl=us


Why use a 100 yard Zero with your Precision Rifle [IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/imgix.scout.com\/140\/1400252.jpg?w=50&h=50&faces=true"}[/IMG2]


Frank Galli 12/22/2014


We’ve moved beyond your grandfathers’ line of thinking where they would zero their rifles at all sort of odd ranges. From 25 yards to 350 yards, etc., you hear a lot of reasons “why” they zeroed there, and most revolve around their hunting rifles’ point blank zero range. Where they figure they can zero and still hit everything without any adjustment.

Let's discuss why we want a 100 yard zero with our Precision Rifle. The question always comes up, where do I zero my precision rifle, and the answer is simple, @ 100 yards.

Not all rifles and scopes are set up to use a 100 yard zero. But with modern optics, We believe the 100 yard zero is the best method to employ. Doesn’t matter if you are shooting inside 1000 yards, or at ELR distances out to 2000m, with a 100 yard zero you are always dialing up, and combined with the right base, you get the maximum effectiveness out of your optic.

We’ve moved beyond your grandfathers’ line of thinking where they would zero their rifles at all sort of odd ranges. From 25 yards to 350 yards, etc., you hear a lot of reasons “why” they zeroed there, and most revolve around their hunting rifles’ point blank zero range. Where they figure they can zero and still hit everything without any adjustment. The real reasoning behind it was lack of understanding and the fact that most rifles were not set up to take advantage of the scopes’ internal adjustment. Back in the day we weren’t using bases with a built in cant to work with the scope. So these methods were just passed on down. [IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/imgix.scout.com\/145\/1452823.jpg"}[/IMG2]



This is an important take away, “understanding your system”, and using the right mounts for the job. In the video I show how using a 20MOA based with a S&B 4–16x does not give me the maximum effectiveness with this scope, how it is designed to use a 28MOA base in order to get 100% of your elevation travel. My ELR rifle, an Accuracy International AWSM 338LM using a S&B 5–25x uses a 100 yard zero and gives me maximum travel from 100 to over 2000m. So, not only do have a rock solid zero, free of environmental errors, but I have enough elevation to take me to the maximum effective range of the cartridge. Pairing the right optic, with the right base, ensures success.

There are times when you cannot get a 100 yard zero, but those are usually very limited. If the optical system you are using requires you to use a different zero, then by all means, use the recommended zero range as there is usually a good reason. The Nightforce Velocity reticle is one such example. This reticle is designed for the user to zero it at 200 yards. However I recommend taking this concept one step further. The Velocity Reticle is a Bullet Drop Compensating Type, or BDC. They are designed around one set of variables. Specifically a single bullet drop. So once the rifle is zeroed you then go by the distance line to hold over. With this type of reticle it’s faster and requires little to no thinking. When employing a BDC Reticle, adjust your fine tune zero in the middle of the adjustment range. So for a reticle that takes you to 1000 yards, fine tune your zero at 500 yards on that hold over line. This will help take up any errors in drop. [IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/imgix.scout.com\/145\/1452824.jpg"}[/IMG2]



We have moved so far beyond 1978, it’s important to pair the right tools to the mission. Don’t just wing it, as you maybe shortchanging yourself. Look at the maximize advertised elevation for your particular scope, and have a base that gives you approximately 1/2 the distance. Let’s look at the S&B 5–25x scope. It has over 90MOA of advertised travel. So 1/2 of that is 45MOA which is why they specifically sell a 45MOA Base for this scope. It gives you 100% of the elevation needed and still allows you to zero at 100 yards. Usually the advertised elevation adjustment is giving you a value in both directions, up and down. We don’t need to dial our elevation down, we always want to go up or out for longer ranges.

With a 100 yard zero on your precision rifle you are always dialing up. Doesn’t matter if you are shooting inside 100 yards, the adjustment is always positive. At 25 yards the distance is the same as the scope’s height over bore, so you might need to dial your 700 yard dope to hit a target, Point of Aim, Point of Impact. There are exceptions to every rule and we don’t recommend this line of thinking for your AR15 being used in a Close Quarter Battle (CQB) context, but for your bolt rifle, a 100 yard zero is best.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This may be a dumb question for some. It seems to me that having a 100 yd zero would eliminate a chance for a confusing situation. I like the comment that with a 100 yd zero one only needs to dial up for any range other than 100yds. That is the bullet path is rising up to the line of sight and reaches the line of sight at 100 yds and then begins to fall away from the line of sight. If a person uses a 300 yard zero, would there not be a chance that the bullet path has crossed the line of sight twice. Technically giving you two zero ranges. Would this be a situation that you do not want? Seems like this would screw up your ballistic app calculations. Am I looking at this correct?
 
Near zero and far zero doesn't apply for a 100 yard zero. It won't mess with your app. You're thinking of something like a battle rifle at 25 yards as a near zero to estimate an approximate 300 yard far zero for PBR applications.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This may be a dumb question for some. It seems to me that having a 100 yd zero would eliminate a chance for a confusing situation. I like the comment that with a 100 yd zero one only needs to dial up for any range other than 100yds. That is the bullet path is rising up to the line of sight and reaches the line of sight at 100 yds and then begins to fall away from the line of sight. If a person uses a 300 yard zero, would there not be a chance that the bullet path has crossed the line of sight twice. Technically giving you two zero ranges. Would this be a situation that you do not want? Seems like this would screw up your ballistic app calculations. Am I looking at this correct?

yes, near and far zero, but it wouldnt screw anything up...just pick one of the zero's and run it in your app...the app will show the zero you didnt pick, as needing no dope also