When should the bolt start cocking the FP during the bolt lift? Right away or should there be some movement in it when it's not doing anything but rotating the lugs?
Gunsmithing When should the bolt start cocking the FP?
- Thread starter Gil P.
- Start date
You have to have room for some movement. Otherwise the firing pin bottoms out on the camming surface. That's not good.
How much movement is too much? Would less movement without cocking the FP give you a lighter bolt lift?
Technically, yes, because your cam surface could be longer and therefore less steep.
Realistically, taking out the "wiggle" in the bolt probably won't make it feel any lighter to a human hand. The difference would be slight
Definitely need to have a little bit, the degree of couldn't tell you.
If you're just curious make a little video posted showing the wiggle you're talking about... Will let you know if it's good or bad.
If you're wanting to get extra Leverage then get a longer bolt handle or a bigger knob... cuz in the real world, Size Matters
If you're just curious make a little video posted showing the wiggle you're talking about... Will let you know if it's good or bad.
If you're wanting to get extra Leverage then get a longer bolt handle or a bigger knob... cuz in the real world, Size Matters
Comparing that to mine it's excessive. That said, mine was completely worked over by Chad at LRI.
I don't recall what the actual fix is... I think it's retiming the bolt handle, not sure. Maybe somebody else can chime in and give you some details
I don't recall what the actual fix is... I think it's retiming the bolt handle, not sure. Maybe somebody else can chime in and give you some details
Tell us about the rifle. Who made the bolt? etc.
The most important question is what does the target tell you?
The most important question is what does the target tell you?
PTG bolt, trues rem 700 sa, rock creek barrel chambered in 6.5x47 lapua.
It shoots like crap, but I'm still working on what's causing it. I've almost got it nailed down to weirdly temp sensitive H4350, and/or a bad barrel.
It copper fouls pretty bad. I'm still testing it to figure out what's going on before I blame the barrel. I probably need to turn my necks. The bullets take a little effort to drop into a fired case.
Ive tried different bullets and powders, seating depths etc, it will usually scatter groups over an inch.
It shoots like crap, but I'm still working on what's causing it. I've almost got it nailed down to weirdly temp sensitive H4350, and/or a bad barrel.
It copper fouls pretty bad. I'm still testing it to figure out what's going on before I blame the barrel. I probably need to turn my necks. The bullets take a little effort to drop into a fired case.
Ive tried different bullets and powders, seating depths etc, it will usually scatter groups over an inch.
Neck clearance is important for consistency. Don't hesitate to change bullets. If a barrel doesn't like a bullet there is nothing you can do to make it shoot. I wouldn't spend any time worrying about the bolt. There's nothing you can do to change it.
I edited my above post. I've tried different bullets and powders. I'll get back to you once ive exhausted every other avenue. I'd hate to blame the barrel. It was made in 15 or 16, when they were going through some changes from what I understand.
If that's addressed to me about the bolt cam the only fix without affecting other relationships in the ignition system is welding, then recutting the cocking cam. Pretty extreme just to change the feel.
Actually it's a pretty simple task for the seasoned competent gunsmith. Mine was done by Chad at lri when my action was reworked.
Probably not worth the effort to just have that fixed...
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