Suppressors Which break & 1 can system for 556/223 & 762/308 rifles????

Armordude

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Mar 7, 2013
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I have several 556 M4's that I own and I am building a AR-10 DPMS SASS as well as a project left handed Remy 700 Varmint SAS 26 inch barrel.

I would like to get suggestions for a single can with breaks/hiders that I can put on each cal weapon. I know the 30 cal can on a 22 cal rifle is less than optimal. With that aside, what decent can( read moderate cost) would you select and what break/hider would you choose for both AR15/AR10/700 platforms ?

Thanks in advance.
 
I have an SAS Ti Reaper waiting on the ATF. 7" long, 10oz, rated for 300wm. Their Arbiter can is 9" long and only slightly heavier and is a good choice too. I wanted the shorter can to run on my SBR's.
 
I have been running an AAC 7.62-SDN-6 can on three of my rilfes, a 300 blackout AR, a 5.56 AR and my Remington 700 in 308 win. the can works well with all of them especially the 300 Blackout. the only thing with the AAC can is that people are having issues with the QD breaks not being able to lock up tight to the can and having it wobble and or coming loose just a little bit so this has turned people off this can for precision rigs. it is worth noting that AAC doesn't advertise the can as one and that it is more of a high rate of fire can that can handle abuse. I my self haven't had any problems with the can wobbling or coming loose with any of my rigs, and even with my 700 with the can it still shoots 1/2" moa with minimal POI change so I love it.
 
I went with the YHM after trying out various cans and had a hard time justifying spending $600 more for another 2-4 dB reduction of a top line can (couldn't tell the difference, frankly). I like the positive lockup. The POA shift in .308 & 5.56 is under 2 MOA, but it's 5 MOA on the .243 (!?! -- this may be due to the lighter/longer barrel of the .243). I run it on several of my bolt guns and ARs in calibers 5.56, .243 & .308.

 
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I have the YHM 7.62 QD Titanium. I use the flash hiders mainly because the brake was not available when I bought mine and don't really need a brake anyway. The Ti is very light compared to the stainless and I have no more than 1.5 MOA shift on any of my guns. A couple have no noticeable shift at all and only 1 has more than 1 MOA out of the 7 guns I regularly use the can on.

As for the .22 cal thru the .30 can being less than ideal-I can't tell the difference and if anything the .223 is quieter than the .308 through mine. Any rounds that are supersonic will more than make up for the sound difference with the supersonic crack of the bullet.
 
I run the Gem Tech Quicksand. I use it on my bolt 308, my 16" Noveske 5.56, and 11.5" SBR 5.56. I actually use three different mount. On my Remmy I use the Gem Tech Tension mount, I have a Smith Vortex Bilock on my Noveske, and the Ambush Tactical Jake Break on my SBR.

POI shift is less than 1 moa on all my rifles and repeatable. My favorite thing about the Gem Tech is their bilock system. Once the can is on it is on and always in the exact same index point.

Good luck with your purchase!
 
So I have 4 rifles that I would like to have share I suppressor. The barrels' ODs are .80, .820, .830, and .710. Is there an adapter out there or will have to turn the first 3 barrels down farther.
Thanks Guys.
 
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What about the SWR specwar 7.62? Supposed to be excellent with 308, 223 and 300 blackout. From the testing i saw online almost as good as dedicated 223 cans, not quite but close.

Sent from my DROID RAZR
 
I also run the YHM Phantom QD in 7.62. It does great on the 5.56. It does get hot though running it on the AR, and despite my wishes for a lighter can on the end of my rifle, I'm glad in some respects that I didn't get the Ti for fear of heat damage.
 
My first can for the same purpose was a YHM 762 ss qd. Great can and indestructible, but a little on the heavy side. I'm also not to fond of the yhm mounts but still use the can once in a while For testing. After purchasing many other cans over the last few years I have found that the AAC SDN6 was a great overall can for the same application. Its pretty much par with a m2000 on 556 and quieter than the 762sd on 308. I tend to lean more towards the AAC mounts as well. Surefire mounts are among my favorites for a precision application, but as an engineer and a machinist I could never get past surefires price points and overall construction. the only AAC can that I have had a lock up issue with was my AAC Mini4, but that was easily fixed. The AAC cans tend to discolor on full auto, but it is what it is. choose your multi caliber can based on warrentee, customer support, and the availability of mounting applications. Purchase a sound take apart 22 can for rim fire rounds. If your in it for precision shots and minimal shift save your pennies and you'll get what you pay for in the end. I was lucky to attend the silencer shoots and play with all of them before making many purchases. some of the smaller companies have excellent products to be considered. Good luck with your purchase.

Jesse James
 
I have a 1/2 moa rifle. The recessed crown's outer rim is .120 thick. The barrel's OD is .710. The barrel is not threaded and to thread it will wipe out the outer rim. Any thoughts on what I can do? Bill
 
I have a 1/2 moa rifle. The recessed crown's outer rim is .120 thick. The barrel's OD is .710. The barrel is not threaded and to thread it will wipe out the outer rim. Any thoughts on what I can do? Bill

I am NOT a suppressor expert although I do own one and understand the importance of proper bore alignment to prevent destroying my suppressor.
I saw an ad for these muzzle brakes and it immediately popped into my head that I could adapt something like this to my Ruger #1. Visualize the muzzle brake with 5/8 x 24 threads instead of a brake. I got hold of the guy and he answered my email saying he could build me a clamp-on adapter. Without any guarantees of course and I would not expect one. I also asked if he could perhaps make the clamp portion longer to help with the added weight of a suppressor. I will be looking into this further when I get home from work....

If you attempt this you will need a method of making sure your suppressor is aligned with the bore, and you will need to take measurements at the muzzle to insure the bore is centered in the barrel BEFORE you have it made. If the bore is not centered then this will definitely not work.

Clamp On Muzzle Brake [MB1] - $85.00 : Witt Machine
 
So I have 4 rifles that I would like to have share I suppressor. The barrels' ODs are .80, .820, .830, and .710. Is there an adapter out there or will have to turn the first 3 barrels down farther.
Thanks Guys.

You don't need to turn the barrels down. If the barrels are threaded properly, the brakes or flash hider for the respective can will thread on and then the can will thread on the brake or flash hider. That being said, I have the TBAC-30BA and love it. POI changes are minimal and customer service is top notch. Not stating anything bad about other brands but thunderbeast has been good to me. I doubt you would find anyone that owns one to say anything bad about them.
 
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Another vote for YHM Phantom QD. I have the SS, sometimes I wish I waited for Ti to come out but oh well. I have found the repeatability to be nothing short of out standing. Money well spent. My shooting buddy has a direct thread on Phantom, I feel sorry for him and me since I'm usually the one that has to help him take it off. He gained nothing in the way of accuracy or repeatably.