I want to try some PRS with an inexpensive factory rifle and a cartridge available in factory loadings. Our PRS range only goes to 800 yards. I was thinking .223, 6 ARC, or 6 CM. Savage offers a 110 tactical in 6 CM with 26" barrel, Savage also offers a 6ARC in the 110 tactical with a 18" barrel. Brownells has Howa mini actions for 223 or 6ARC that I could put in a MDT Oryx. I don't want to reload
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Which factory cartridge for PRS matches out to 800 yards
- Thread starter Tomiboy
- Start date
What is your budget.
I am not a savage hater, but they frequently suffer from very clunky feeding.
6mm CM is the new hotness, but requires rebarreling.
For max distance, 6 ARC, 6.5 Grendel and .224 Valk will do what you need with significantly longer barrel life, all 3 have good factory loads available.
Brownells currently has Solus rifles on sale for around 1400 bucks, they are far superior to the Savage. If you select the right one, you can get a free suppressor (paperwork and tax stamp apply).
A 6.5 shooting 123 to 130 grain bullets will give you reduced recoil, flat shooting with plenty of energy on target.
I am not a savage hater, but they frequently suffer from very clunky feeding.
6mm CM is the new hotness, but requires rebarreling.
For max distance, 6 ARC, 6.5 Grendel and .224 Valk will do what you need with significantly longer barrel life, all 3 have good factory loads available.
Brownells currently has Solus rifles on sale for around 1400 bucks, they are far superior to the Savage. If you select the right one, you can get a free suppressor (paperwork and tax stamp apply).
A 6.5 shooting 123 to 130 grain bullets will give you reduced recoil, flat shooting with plenty of energy on target.
I'd go with the 6mm Creedmoor. Hornady makes some excellent ammo using the 108 gr ELD-M bullet.
Budget`s the key question. $1400 does not fall within the definition of " inexpensive factory rifle " for a lot of folks. I have a 110 in .223 that is almost boringly accurate that was much less. Oh, and it`s never suffered from " very clunky feeding ". Can`t speak for all Savage rifles, of course.
Carefully consider just getting a .223 bolt gun with a heavy barrel. Factory Mk 262/clones with 77smk is effective to ±800yds in calm conditions. Cheaper box ammo like HPBT 69/75 gr is half the cost and perfect for < 600 yards and high volume training.
This is something that makes alot more sense in a 2 piece (or whatever) bolt with changeable bolt faces.
EG, This would be a great caliber series for the lightweight SIG cross (which has a 2 piece bolt from the factory), but AFAIK they don't offer the separate bolt faces in 220 russian configuration.
If you try to shoot arc/valk out of a 1 piece bolt action, you are looking at typically $400 to upgrade the bolt by itself.
I have shot several different savage rifles. Some of them fed very well, some of them did not.
Accuracy was never an issue and I have no problems with the accu-trigger.
What one person considers inexpensive doesn't necessarily coincide with what another one does. It's all relative, that's why I asked what his budget is.
Inexpensive but very good and upgradeable:
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Get a 6.5 Creedmoor. Buy a bunch of Hornady 140 ELD-Ms. You will get more barrel life and be able to learn the sport with a full sized cartridge and not worry about feeding issues. Get something with a 26" barrel and a DBM that takes AICS mags and go shoot and practice. If you had a burning desire for a 6mm then get a 6 Creed and a bunch of 108 ELD-M ammo.
What is inexpensive for you?
6arc will run to 800y all day. However, I'd go 6.5creed tho for factory ammo offerings. It's same price as ARC anyway.
I'd be weary of the "inexpensive factory rifle" thing... even if you only drop 500 bucks, I hope you're a casual hunter who doesn't mind walking around in the woods with a third-tier rifle because otherwise, it's near worthless in the secondary market.
Spend a little more and drop a Howa barreled action in 6CM or 6.5CM into a KRG Bravo and install a ~$20 Gunbloke "Benchrest Kit" trigger spring off Ebay.
If you think you might be hooked, you can add weights or anything else that anyone else can add to a Bravo, and you'll have a legit rifle that can take you a long way and that you still can mostly turn back into cash using the PX because there are ~9 million Bravos out there and dudes looking to cannibalize your old rig. Howas are solid too, they have a cult-like following for good reason.
Spend a little more and drop a Howa barreled action in 6CM or 6.5CM into a KRG Bravo and install a ~$20 Gunbloke "Benchrest Kit" trigger spring off Ebay.
If you think you might be hooked, you can add weights or anything else that anyone else can add to a Bravo, and you'll have a legit rifle that can take you a long way and that you still can mostly turn back into cash using the PX because there are ~9 million Bravos out there and dudes looking to cannibalize your old rig. Howas are solid too, they have a cult-like following for good reason.
I’d say a 223 would be great but to really get the 800+ yard potential out of it you would need to hand load. I’d say go the 6.5 creed or 308 route. Many factory rounds that will perform at extended distances and both are easy to hand load for if you decide to in the future. As for rifles, Bergara, Solus, or RPR for a beginner rifle. If you want to spend a little more maybe a MPA production rifle, or GAP production. I know Seekins make good rifles too. Figure out what cartridge you want and budget your willing to spend on rifle and narrow your choices from there.
I did a quick search and saw a 22” 6.5 in Bravo and Competition. Looks like the have a hunter in 24” but not what I would choose for matches.
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Frankly, I would move up to a 6.5 Creedmoor. Factory ammo offerings are plentiful and varied with good target ammo easy to find. For a rifle, I would choose a standard issue RPR or get a Howa or Bergara barreled action with an inexpensive chassis. Simple, upgradable and not bank account draining. Works great to 800 and beyond. Rarely do I have an opportunity to shoot past 840 yards and the 6.5 is fun to shoot and easy to spot.
Comes down to stuff is easy to find and available.
Comes down to stuff is easy to find and available.
The only factory 26" 65cm I know of, CA mpr, and a few the browning long range models. These are all north of 1500$. I'd buy a ruger precision, shoot the barrel out, then put a 26" pipe on from the UrbanRifleman and rock on.
Your right. I didn’t realize they were making a hunter version. Wonder if they would do the barreled action that’s offered in the hunter at 24” and then buy the chassis. Or do the 26” 6 creedI did a quick search and saw a 22” 6.5 in Bravo and Competition. Looks like the have a hunter in 24” but not what I would choose for matches.
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Actually the RPR custom shop model in 6.5 Creedmoor is 26" but it is street priced in the 2300 range.
If your range only goes to 800yards then 223 is definietly a contender.
If the average match has 70% of the target under 500y, 20% 500-700y, 10% 700y+ (more or less % percantages) then 223 would be a good choice, especially if match ammo with 75, 77, 80gr bullets are available.
If your matches tend to push out past the 600yard mark for most of the targets then 6.5 Creed is definitely the way to go.
If the average match has 70% of the target under 500y, 20% 500-700y, 10% 700y+ (more or less % percantages) then 223 would be a good choice, especially if match ammo with 75, 77, 80gr bullets are available.
If your matches tend to push out past the 600yard mark for most of the targets then 6.5 Creed is definitely the way to go.
My Savage Model 12 LRPV in .223 has a 26" SS truck axle for a barrel. It was $1400 which may be outside of OP`s budget. VERY accurate range gun. Probably 12-13 lbs all up. Currently shooting at a range that maxes at 500 yards and is sub-MOA capable if I don`t screw up the shot.
That’s a light rifle for PRS and the stock doesn’t have a way to hang weights or a rail unless you modify it and void the warranty on a stock that has had issues.
I’d buy a CTR SS 24” or a Varmint and drop it in a KRG X-RAY instead. You’ll be the same or less money in it and have a much better setup for your uses. A KRG is a pound or more heavier than the UPR stock and you can hang weights off of it and bolt on an arca rail.
As Biker boys said below.
Go KRG over the UPR, the added weight is an advantage and they chassis have a tonne of options for adding weight or upgrading down the track.
You can also use AICS mags which kinda suck compared to CTR mags but are basically what you'll end up using eventually and are what everyone else uses.
Tikka CTR + Bravo has been the easy button for starting into PRS for a while now.
Factory ammo? One of the creeds. You can always find ammo. You won’t be pushing the limits of its effectiveness.
I love my 223 but factory ammo sucks for it for the most part so I handload for great results at distance. You can’t see misses very much.
The 6 dasher is very nice to shoot and noticeably less recoil, sorta like the 6arc you floated, but I still find myself shooting my creeds more often. Such as today where I’m shooting both a 6 and 6.5
I love my 223 but factory ammo sucks for it for the most part so I handload for great results at distance. You can’t see misses very much.
The 6 dasher is very nice to shoot and noticeably less recoil, sorta like the 6arc you floated, but I still find myself shooting my creeds more often. Such as today where I’m shooting both a 6 and 6.5
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I will ask again. What’s your price range? You go from inexpensive factory rifle and now talking about rifles riding closer to $2000 mark. Got to set your budget and figure if this is just to get into PRS or are you looking to keep rifle long term.
I love the KRG Bravo stocks. (I have owned 4) I do like the Tikka 70 degree bolt throw also. Maybe a Tikka in a Bravo is the answer. If I go that route and get a Varmint model, are they threaded for a brake? Do AICS mags work okay in them?
The varmints aren’t threaded but they have a heavier barrel than the CTR which is more ideal. You can have the rifle shipped straight from wherever you order it to a shop that can thread it for $100-$150 and then sent to your dealer to transfer so you wouldn’t even have to send it back out. Get it ready to rock, drop it in your chassis and go shoot.
All of my long actions feed beautiful, my three 300 wsm's and one 6.5 creedmoor feed beautiful, but my 22-250 and two 6.5 Creedmoor Savages just have a little hitch that make for clunky feeding. I am not sure why the short actions are more likely to have just a bit more clunky feeling, but not all.
Master Piece Arms PMR Pro in 6.5 Creedmoor. Very accurate. Cheap enough to shoot production class and the 6.5 has good barrel life. Something like 6 Dasher is flatter shooting but half the barrel life.
If you want barrel life and good velocities pushing high BC bullets, 6mm ARC. If you want pure speed and flat shooting and don't GAF about your barrel life, 6mm Creed.
if you never plan on never traveling then 223 that can shoot 75/77/80gr will be fine. but factory ammo is meh because it's basically all AR-15 spec or varmint type ammo that won't work in matches
6.5CM has so many options for factory ammo and a 24-26" barrel is plenty. 26" better for free speed and balance too but unless you step up to something like an MPA or GAP 'production' class rifle you're making sacrifices and at that point you can build one very easily for the same price
6.5CM has so many options for factory ammo and a 24-26" barrel is plenty. 26" better for free speed and balance too but unless you step up to something like an MPA or GAP 'production' class rifle you're making sacrifices and at that point you can build one very easily for the same price
Shot a new 65cm build in a prs match yesterday and prob shot my best ever string of 7 stages before the wheels came off. I for one prefer the lower velocity and higher energy on plate to read information after the trigger squeeze. But I'm running the heaviest bullets available and slow. My wind was still inside the dasher/gt shooters. I def say 65cm. Plus currently if you ever get into reloading, 65 bullets are available, 6mm shit is vapor ware, sold out before the in stock notice hits your email.
There are a few choices for for 77smk's, mine shoots great with black hills ammo and 77smks.
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In 6mm Creedmoor, the Hornady 108 Match shoots .5 in my Custom Shop RPR. On my Savage 110 Tactical 6mm Creedmoor they shoot about an inch +. In my Ruger Predator 6mm Creedmoor, only the 87 grain Varmint express will shoot sub-moa.
For 5.56, Berger 77grain OTM but they're abobut $42/box of 20. If you don't reload, I'll buy your Lapua brass if you're go that route.
Haven't found a load or factory round that shoots out of the Savage Switchback yet for 6ARC I have but that has a 22" bbl
.308 Win, 6.5 CM, 6 CM, 6 ARC, .223 Rem - any of those can do the job. 6 CM is my favorite of the bunch simply because it seems to be less popular than the 6.5 CM and that made it much easier to find ammo when everyone was panic buying everything they could find. The .308 and .223 are both classic, and you can shoot your own sub class with either. The .308 Win is gonna demand more of you as a shooter. The .223 is easy from a recoil standpoint, but the external ballistics lag the pack. Down range spotting can be tough. Factory produced .223 Rem match ammo doesn't go cheap, tends to be hard to find, and is usually limited to what an AR-15 can handle (a significant handicap). 6 ARC isn't super available in terms of rifles or ammo, but it is a factory loaded alternative to consider.
