Which M1 should I buy

[DangerRanger]

Always wanted one and end up building another rifle or buying another scope. I know I’m gonna regret it when they are gone so which grade m1 do I go ahead and buy.

I may shoot it occasionally but mostly it’s a piece of history and I don’t want to get old and to regret missing my opportunity.

Thinking either a

service grade ($750)
M1 Garand, Luck of the draw for Springfield or Harrington & Richardson manufacturer. Orders will be filled with next available Service grade rifle. See above for Service Grade description. Rifle shipped in CMP hard rifle case.


Or a special field grade ($850)
CMP Special FIELD GRADE (.30-06) M1 Garand. This is a completely refurbished rifle consisting of an original M1 Garand Springfield or HRA receiver, new production Criterion barrel, new production American Walnut stock and handguards, and new web sling. Receiver and most other parts are refinished USGI, but some parts may be new manufacture.
Receiver will have considerable pitting above the wood line.

Anyone bought one recently and have pictures of what I would be getting?

 

[Bonjourjr]

If you aren’t buying one to be a shooter then go with the service grade. It will look and feel more like history than a refurbed gun. If you want one primarily to shoot then go special.

I have 5 service grades and they are all nice. I have handled specials and they look nice but don’t draw my attention like a nice service or field grade does.

 

[DangerRanger]

If you aren’t buying one to be a shooter then go with the service grade. It will look and feel more like history than a refurbed gun. If you want one primarily to shoot then go special.

I have 5 service grades and they are all nice. I have handled specials and they look nice but don’t draw my attention like a nice service or field grade does.

Still decent enough to shoot a bit though?

 

[Bonjourjr]

My fields and service grades shoot well. Only had one field grade I couldn’t get to shoot well no matter what load I tried. Had to get rid of that one.

Be aware that they do ship some service grade with a new CMP stock, just like the specials. They are nice but GI wood has a lot of character.

 

[Mike_in_FL]

I plan on buying the cheaper and getting somebody to install a new barrel at some point. Whatever you buy, shoot it first and see how it does. I can and will recrown the barrel myself before rebarreling if it doesn't shoot to my expectations.

When CMP was DCM and our club had Garands, they mostly shot well cold but not so well in strings of a match in FL weather. I screwed up back then, could have bought all I wanted for $180.

 

[RTH1800]

Get the one with the DBM!
?

 

[DangerRanger]

Thanks guys. I’m assuming the “special field” is a field grade receiver that’s been totally refurbed, while a service grade is a slightly better starting action that may have been refurbed in some areas. Appears they warn against pitting more on the special fields.

Might just go with the service and save a few bucks. Granted a special field is only 100$ more and you get a sling worth what 20-30 bucks? Not much difference

 

[Chance]

Get the service grade, ask nicely for gi wood. A lot of times they will oblige.

 

[Hound Dog]

Get the service grade, ask nicely for gi wood. A lot of times they will oblige.

I've heard that if you slip a small tip in the envelope when you send your paperwork in, things like GI stocks and parts turn up more easily

 

[Ledzep]

Service Grade. As others have stated, see if you can get GI wood.

 

[DangerRanger]

Thanks all, signed up for GCA to start the process. If I’m able to get a rifle in the next month or two I might be able to take a deer with it this season

 

[jwhjwh54]

My special shot really well. They are fun to hunt with . 150 fusion worked well in mine. Wish I hadnt sold it

 

[truck1]

Nice oinker!! Love my garand.

 

[12Bravo]

Go with the service grade. I got one several years ago and it was as good as new. Muzzle and throat erosion was virtually non-existent.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

My Service Grade is a keeper.

Still trying to get the Wife on my side for the CMP Special 308.

Of the Specials, it's the right one. The 30-06 has issues with loads, apparently not so with the 308. It looks pricey as a Mil 308, but once one starts pricing the others (and the supporting tools, etc.), it looks more and more like the bargain in the bunch.

Greg

 

[mgrs]

Service Grade if your only M1 and you want history; special grade .308 if you are more interested in shooting it.

Anything below a service grade is not a good idea for a first time CMP buyer. The rackers and field grades, when they have them, can be a dice roll. Below is the nicest field grade SA of probably over 100 on a weekend in the North Store.
View attachment 7117290

 

[garandman]

Service grade, with WWII date serialized action

 

[garandman]

Service Grade. As others have stated, see if you can get GI wood.

If you mean actual gov't issue... hard to get, and impossible to prove. Even cartouches are getting faked these days. I'd recommend making sure its walnut, at the very least.

Now... the serial number on the action is date specific. For myself, I highly prefer WWII dated rcvrs.

 

[JFR]

I, too, advise Service Grade.

JFR

 

[Dan M]

If you mean actual gov't issue... hard to get, and impossible to prove. Even cartouches are getting faked these days. I'd recommend making sure its walnut, at the very least.

Now... the serial number on the action is date specific. For myself, I highly prefer WWII dated rcvrs.

Agreed on a service grade rifle with service walnut stock and hand guards. Would actually recommend either a post Korean War Springfield or an H&R...the finish is far nicer than a wartime rifle.

It is all still out there...it is simply a matter of how much money, time and effort you are willing to throw at the problem. Determining if a WW2 M1 is correct isn’t hard, but you really have to know what you are looking at. My M1 rifle reference library cost as much as a rifle.

 

[garandman]

@Dan M .... nice collection.

 

[Dan M]

Thanks. I have 9 more that are CMP corrects and Collector grade and a 4.66 HRA I got from Scott Duff. back in the day, the Correct grades were a steal... have 2 Greek HRA Corrects that were not graded as collector grade because the greeks stamped rack numbers on the buttstock...other than the rack numbers they are flat mint. back then (circa 2005) you could call the store and have them pull rifles aside with your name on it pending your submission of the paperwork... PeeWee pulled several nice ones for me...those days are gone.

 

[Shoots 700's]

I was lucky enough to get a correct grade about 7 years ago. I would go service grade at this point.

 

[DangerRanger]

Update! It has arrived. Rm1service, HRA appears to be 1953 and original wood

 

[pmclaine]

Good looking rifle.

Get some pure linseed oil (not boiled) and rub that stock down to remove some of the grime. It will glow like the sun after doing so.

 

[DangerRanger]

Good looking rifle.

Get some pure linseed oil (not boiled) and rub that stock down to remove some of the grime. It will glow like the sun after doing so.

Sweet. Just apply/rub with a cloth?

 

[pmclaine]

Sweet. Just apply/rub with a cloth?

Pure linseed......

Rub it on with a cloth initially because I think you will find the cloth gets dirty very fast with crud.

I like this stuff...

Ive heard stories of "sticky" rifles by I have never experienced it.

If Im not using this stuff its Real Milk Paint Pure Tung oil.

The linseed oild would be GI correct. The tung oil was also correct for a time until this little thing called WWII happened and they couldnt get the oil from China anymore.

Tung oil is a bit better to keep weather at bay but it can get shiny.

Oil, oil, oil, its therapeutic.

 

[Eddystone]

If you do need work done on your M-1 the CMP guys can do that too. I talked to John McClane when they were hosting a match a Ben Avery. They do repairs.

 

[pmclaine]

PS....

When you get it clean, by floating the crud away with fresh oil.

Start using less oil and rub with your bare hands.

Rub like you want to have the stock burst into flame.

Rub thin coats of oil and burnish the wood with your skin.

 

[Eddystone]

Looks like a nice rifle By the way.

 

[DangerRanger]

Thanks for all the help guys. I had expected to get new wood, so I’m a bit relieved that I don’t have to do all the oil application myself lol, plus it’s neat for it to already have character. I’ll grab some of that oil.

 

[pmclaine]

Thanks for all the help guys. I had expected to get new wood, so I’m a bit relieved that I don’t have to do all the oil application myself lol, plus it’s neat for it to already have character. I’ll grab some of that oil.

A small bottle will last a lifetime.

 

[Forgetful Coyote]

@pmclaine Will oiling them help prevent warping from moisture/humidity?

 

[pmclaine]

@pmclaine Will oiling them help prevent warping from moisture/humidity?

It will help with drying out but take them in the rain the wood will move.

Tung oil has a bit more weather protection than Linseed oil but neither work as good as fiberglass or poly.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

I own a Service Grade, purchased ($250) in the mid-90's from the DCM. It's a really sweet rifle, intended and used as an occasional shooter.

For shooting, Service Grade would be/has been my choice.

I also maintain eight Service Grade ceremonial Garands for our local VFW; a true labor of love.

I severely lusted after the CMP Special 308, but ultimately, the $1250 price tag proved too impractical for our household budget. My compromise was/is a PSA PA-10 20" 308. Still shaking down some minor issues, but I'll keep it even if I have to fix the issue myself.

Greg

 

[Crang]

If your stock came as soaked in cosmoline as mine you'll likely want to get rid of it first. Otherwise it will always 'leak' when the gun gets hot and it softens the wood over time. I like the least invasive method possible for old stocks so a good wipe down with denatured alcohol to start. If thats not enough you can go stronger and do mineral spirits or really up it to laquer thinner, but I try and avoid that. Heat gets the cosmo out. Here in Texas just putting it in a black bag with kitty litter and leaving it the sun (or in colder places I hear inside a vehicle in a sunbeam) works. It will keep weeping cosmoline for a couple weeks. When it stops it time to wipe it down with solvent again then whatever your oil of choice is. Linseed, tung, etc.

 

[pmclaine]

If your stock came as soaked in cosmoline as mine you'll likely want to get rid of it first. Otherwise it will always 'leak' when the gun gets hot and it softens the wood over time. I like the least invasive method possible for old stocks so a good wipe down with denatured alcohol to start. If thats not enough you can go stronger and do mineral spirits or really up it to laquer thinner, but I try and avoid that. Heat gets the cosmo out. Here in Texas just putting it in a black bag with kitty litter and leaving it the sun (or in colder places I hear inside a vehicle in a sunbeam) works. It will keep weeping cosmoline for a couple weeks. When it stops it time to wipe it down with solvent again then whatever your oil of choice is. Linseed, tung, etc.

Great points....

 

[Greg Langelius *]

While agree with the above, I've done several stocks, new and artifacts, and my philosophy about the wood has changed.

Some may cringe and look away at this point.

The wood is there to support the metal. It carries with it the character of the wood grain, and some (for our purposes) superfluous finish materials. We need to preserve the first, along with the original stock contour (especially the sharp edges), and remove the old finish. It's just in the way, and could prove to be/contain contaminants.

I absolutely and completely soak the stock in 90% Isopropyl Alcohol, then Odorless Mineral Spirits, then Acetone; drying the wood completely after each different solvent.

The next step is to reinvigorate the wood fiber with a fresh, new finish, done to provide a compatible substrate for the new finish. This is done with Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO), or BC Tru-Oil, or Linspeed, whichever one, diluted 50%-70% with odorless mineral spirits, and allowed to totally dry out between coats. The finish product you start with, you keep going with.

The idea is to give the cleaned wood fiber a deep drink, and build up a substrate that goes as deep as possible into the wood. Two or three coats works for me, and yes; each needs to dry thoroughly. Done right, the process strengthens the wood.

That gets cut back down to the surface of the wood grain with #3 steel wool, hopefully having filled the grain completely. If not, give it more coats, and cut back on the thinner.

The rest consists of consecutive coats of the same finish material, lightly applied and hand polished to virtual dryness. Each coat needs to get dried completely. If it's applied right, it'll dry almost immediately, then harden up/cure overnight.

Every several coats, cut the finish back to the wood surface using successively finer steel wool. I go as far as using 0000 Grade. This creates a finish that is in the grain, and not atop it like paint.

The final steel wool passes should leave a fine satin-like sheen.

One coat of oil, rubbed in by hand polishing, heavy enough to have some gleam, should do the trick of putting the shine onto the finish that's actually inside the wood grain. That final coat can be repeated if more shine is desired, as desired..

The hardest part of this entire process is marshaling enough patience to allow each and every coat to dry and harden thoroughly. Depending on your goals, a single good stock finishing job could take several weeks to complete properly.

Maintaining the finish consists of the extra fine steel wool, cutting down just enough to remove the gleam, then replacing that gleam with a thin coat or two of the same finish oil product hand polished onto it all.

Before attempting this finish repair, clean the stock's surface thoroughly with 90% Isopropyl Alcohol to remove any surface contaminants.

Products containing wax and/or silicone should not be allowed in contact with the finish; they are serious contaminants that could require the entire finish to be stripped and rebuilt; or at very least, could prevent any finish damage from being properly repaired.

I'm in the midst of just such a restrip on all the wood parts of eight completely refinished Garand stocks because some Nameless Dim Bulb wiped eight beautiful Garand rifle stocks with a silicone cloth six months ago. The first coat of BLO turned tacky and was still tacky a week later.

Two years of maintenance; straight down the drain.

Oh, well...

Greg