Which model Tikka?

[Conkeydonk]

24”
Tikka barrels are notorious for being “slow” compared to an aftermarket tube, the extra length gets some velocity back.
It also puts a little more distance between you and the muzzle brake. Every little bit helps.

Anybody know why the barrels are slow? And what characteristics contribute to this?

 

[308pirate]

he ended up getting a Benelli Lupo in .308. You just can’t save some people from themselves, I swear.

What's wrong with that rifle?

 

[GrumpyOleFart]

Hope he's happy with his choice.

 

[DJL2]

Anybody know why the barrels are slow? And what characteristics contribute to this?

If I were going to guess...and that's a pure, straight up guess...I'd say they CHF them a little "tight" and the added friction costs a bit of velocity. I suppose someone out there has likely gauged a bunch of them and could answer with certainty as to whether my SWAG has any merit.

I will say that my T3x Lite in 7mm RM is not slow...runs like the box says for Barnes and Hornady (actually a touch faster).

 

[TurboTrout]

Tac 308 20”, been very happy with it, though I’ve debated swapping to a faster barrel, but not enough of a issue I’ve gotten to it yet

 

[DROWN]

My observation with their barrels, at least on my CTR is that they overheat quickly and lose accuracy. I can't shoot a match with one or complete a course with many strings of shooting. My Varmint barrel doesn't have this issue, but the CTR does. I just received a Proof carbon blank to rebarrel with, I am hoping that will solve the issues.

 

[dski]

Depending on how you are shooting, I would go with the CTR and chassis. I also have the TAC A1 and really like it but the magazines are at times problematic and stupid expensive for what they are. Nice to just go chassis and use AICS style mags.

Tikka barrels are slow but super consistent. Also easily replaced by a nicer/heavier profile barrel down the road. Everyone Tikka I have shoots .25-.35 moa with handloads. Makes me wonder why I build custom ones at times!

 

[GrumpyOleFart]

Mine is the Super Varmint, and with my handloads it's very precise.
Just pulled the trigger on a GRS BiFrost stock, so looking forward to seeing how that goes.

 

[CaptNemo]

If I were going to guess...and that's a pure, straight up guess...I'd say they CHF them a little "tight" and the added friction costs a bit of velocity. I suppose someone out there has likely gauged a bunch of them and could answer with certainty as to whether my SWAG has any merit.

I will say that my T3x Lite in 7mm RM is not slow...runs like the box says for Barnes and Hornady (actually a touch faster).

The chamber in my 6.5 CM CTR has a very long throat, if you’re handloading, you can take advantage of that extra length with a longer ogive length with longer, high BC bullets.
if you’re shooting factory ammo that has to function thru an AR-10 magazine, then you have a lot of free bore before the bullet gets to the rifling. Long free bores bleed off pressure and velocity

 

[DJL2]

The chamber in my 6.5 CM CTR has a very long throat, if you’re handloading, you can take advantage of that extra length with a longer ogive length with longer, high BC bullets.
if you’re shooting factory ammo that has to function thru an AR-10 magazine, then you have a lot of free bore before the bullet gets to the rifling. Long free bores bleed off pressure and velocity

A good point that I failed to consider. I also note that, according to QuickLoad at least, most factory 6.5 CM is on the light side regardless...so, it might be the .199 Freebore spec is to blame.

Roy Weatherby might take issue with that. ;-) Most of his creations relied on long freebore to the opposite effect, or so goes the lore.

 

[sboone]

Depending on how you are shooting, I would go with the CTR and chassis. I also have the TAC A1 and really like it but the magazines are at times problematic and stupid expensive for what they are. Nice to just go chassis and use AICS style mags.

Tikka barrels are slow but super consistent. Also easily replaced by a nicer/heavier profile barrel down the road. Everyone Tikka I have shoots .25-.35 moa with handloads. Makes me wonder why I build custom ones at times!

Depends on your definition of expensive. On Big Daddy Unlimited they are $65, which is the same ballpark as MDT mags. Beretta constantly runs specials and huge coupons that get them into the $70 range if I remember right.

Im sure magpul AICS mags are nice and affordable, but my limited experience with AICS mags in general is they are anywhere from $50->$100 depending who, when, where, sales, etc. Just an FYI incase you are looking at the over priced $120 CTR mags ive seen ar some places

 

[dski]

Fair enough. I guess they are all expensive.

I have just had enough issues with the Tikka mags once they get 500+ rounds on them (and other friends that own have experienced the same) that guess it isn't just the cost but the design that irritates me. Great thing is you can pay $70 for accurate mags everyday and that is what I use. Doesn't require paying a subscription or a sale. https://www.area419.com/product/accurate-mag/

I wish they would design the Tac A1 to just use them!

 

[sboone]

Also fair enough, I had to make a little modification to the bottom metal to keep the front end up otherwise itd send rounds straight into the reciever instead of feeding, easy enough fix since the bottom metal was "bubba'd" by the previous owner to force a CTR into a bell and carlson M40 stock

 

[LeftyJason]

Depends on your definition of expensive. On Big Daddy Unlimited they are $65, which is the same ballpark as MDT mags. Beretta constantly runs specials and huge coupons that get them into the $70 range if I remember right.

Im sure magpul AICS mags are nice and affordable, but my limited experience with AICS mags in general is they are anywhere from $50->$100 depending who, when, where, sales, etc. Just an FYI incase you are looking at the over priced $120 CTR mags ive seen ar some places

Magpul AICS mags don't work with tikkas.

Yes there have been some who have modified the feed lip area to work but that severely weakens the feed lips and makes them more liable to break.

 

[sboone]

Magpul AICS mags don't work with tikkas.

Yes there have been some who have modified the feed lip area to work but that severely weakens the feed lips and makes them more liable to break.

Ive never tried any AICS mags in my tikka, I was just comparing prices for anyone who might be interested in knowing theres affordable mags out there for CTR

 

[Dobermann]

A lot of people go for the CTR.
I've always leaned towards more traditional hunting style rifles, so bought the Super Varmint in 6.5 Creedmoor.
I have no regrets, it's an outrageously accurate rifle.
I will be buying a GRS BiFrost chassis for it, shortly.
Years ago, I owned a Tikka 25-06, and that was superb as well.
I've had friendly comps with mates that own the TAC A1'S and CTR's, they all shoot very well. It came down to wind reading ability, though I did like the A1 chassis.
Good glass and rings are a must.
Tikka make bloody good "production" rifles, so compliment them with good glass.
Enjoy!

@GrumpyOleFart: Did you end up buying the GRS Bifrost?

Why were you considering that option? If you did get one, what do you think of it?

I recently picked up a CTR that came with a Bifrost stock. My intention was to swap it out for a KRG X-Ray.

Now the Bifrost is in-hand, I don't know what to make of it - the offset grip with the handswell feels great to me. The stock overall is chunky and seems heavy for what it is, but is still well balanced.

However, I can't really work out a good application for it - it's heavier than a hunting stock could/should (?) be. The forend only has space for a short section of Pic rail, and can't have an RRS/Arca rail added. The soft rubber overmould on the forend would get shredded on barricades ...

So it doesn't seem to be an ideal hunting stock, or a good competition stock - unless possibly for field-style comps, where you're not planning on running an Arca-plate mounted tripod ... I can see how the great ergos of the grip could assist in field shooting positions other than prone ...

But that's about it.

So - interested to hear your thoughts ... and anyone else who has run the GRS Bifrost in comps.

 

[wade2big]

@dski and @sboone, a simple follower spring bend would solve your tikka magazine issues. It’s been posted many times.

Make your spring look like this with a pair of needle nose pliers. The rounds will present to the chamber like they should.

 

[sboone]

@dski and @sboone, a simple follower spring bend would solve your tikka magazine issues. It’s been posted many times.

Make your spring look like this with a pair of needle nose pliers. The rounds will present to the chamber like they should.

View attachment 7621270View attachment 7621271

Thanks for the heads up, unfortunately this is in fact not the reason for my issues. I'll take a pic of the current bottom metal in a couple days, new stock should be showin up soon so I'll have everything apart. The bottom metal I currently have has had the sides of the magwell machined off so that itd fit into the B&C M40 stock it was in. The magazine is effective supported on the sides by the aluminum bedding block of the stock which were also milled to fit. The BDM only supports the front and rear of the mag and the front "tab" that is left occasionally gets bent forward allowing the mag to dip down in the front.

Soon to he fixed, I have a new grayboe Phoenix to be delivered Tuesday, and new bottom metal from a member here.

 

[GrumpyOleFart]

@GrumpyOleFart: Did you end up buying the GRS Bifrost?

Why were you considering that option? If you did get one, what do you think of it?

I recently picked up a CTR that came with a Bifrost stock. My intention was to swap it out for a KRG X-Ray.

Now the Bifrost is in-hand, I don't know what to make of it - the offset grip with the handswell feels great to me. The stock overall is chunky and seems heavy for what it is, but is still well balanced.

However, I can't really work out a good application for it - it's heavier than a hunting stock could/should (?) be. The forend only has space for a short section of Pic rail, and can't have an RRS/Arca rail added. The soft rubber overmould on the forend would get shredded on barricades ...

So it doesn't seem to be an ideal hunting stock, or a good competition stock - unless possibly for field-style comps, where you're not planning on running an Arca-plate mounted tripod ... I can see how the great ergos of the grip could assist in field shooting positions other than prone ...

But that's about it.

So - interested to hear your thoughts ... and anyone else who has run the GRS Bifrost in comps.

Absolutely stoked with the Bifrost stock.
It is heavy, but a total joy to handle.
No regrets at all.
I've found it to be the most comfortable stock I have used.
The construction is plastic, I believe to be HDPE, so it's tough.
Combined with the fibre, it's rock solid.
My 6.5 Creedmoor had marginal recoil.
Now it's almost non existent.
The ease of adjustment and comfort has swayed two friends of mine to purchase it.
Whether stalking through scrub, or prone on a vantage point, the ergonomics really excel.
Standing or kneeling, I use my rifle strap and the canted butt pad sits perfectly where I need it.
I'm guessing for PRS comps, I'd just bag it on structures.
For the price, it's worth every cent in my humble opinion.

 

[Dobermann]

@GrumpyOleFart - thanks for that. Is there any play in the spacer/buttpad assembly on yours?

The channel in mine that has the locking wheel for the cant adjustment tilts back and forth ... not sure if it's meant to do that or not - and if it would affect precision at all, seeing as it's a moving part, right where I want things to be locked in ...

 

[GrumpyOleFart]

@GrumpyOleFart - thanks for that. Is there any play in the spacer/buttpad assembly on yours?

The channel in mine that has the locking wheel for the cant adjustment tilts back and forth ... not sure if it's meant to do that or not - and if it would affect precision at all, seeing as it's a moving part, right where I want things to be locked in ...

You can use an Allen key to tighten it a bit, if you feel the need.

 

[Dobermann]

Ah! Good to know - cheers. Mine came with all sorts of fancy advertising information, but no manual - and that trick wasn't included in the handful of GRS's videos I watched. Thanks again.