Why clean your brass??

[Steve1]

I know most people who reload, a lot, tumble or clean their brass. I've been reloading since the 60's and have never had any problems using so called dirty brass. I know I'm no expert by any means, so please enlighten me on this. I do wipe my brass with resizing lube, and wipe them again after resizing. I still can shoot tiny groups consistently. Is there a good reason to have shiny clean brass? I know it's not smart to have crud on the outside of your brass when you go to chamber or resize it. It might also affect pressures if cases have varying amounts of crud on the inside.

Most of you do a lot more shooting than I do. I'd appreciate your advice on this. Maybe I do need to buy a tumbler.....

 

[EddieNFL]

Shiny? No. Clean? Yes. Doesn't matter how it gets clean. A tumbler is a lot less work.

 

[Labanaktis]

I picked up a Rebel 17 tumbler earlier this year. It cleans perfectly. I used to just reload 9mm/45 and 357 mag Range-pick -up - dirty on my progressive. Now its alot smoother all the way around. I guess its the clean brass making it smoother... its the only thing I changed.

It worked for me.

Matt

 

[bigedp51]

I have been reloading for over 46 years and always prefered bolt action rifles and revolvers. In the last six years my two sons have influenced the type firearms I have recently purchaced. Meaning I now have firearms that throw perfectly good brass away and make you go look for it.

Since I now have brass that is thrown on the ground and can end up with imbedded dirt and grit I have switched to wet tumbling with stainless steel media. Bottom line I clean/scrub my brass to keep from scratching my dies, and to better inspect the fired cases. Besides I'm retired with nothing to do and all day to do it and have brass OCD.

In the past before dry vibratory cleaners and wet tumblers I would use liquid cartridge case cleaners and steel wool to make the brass look good. Also when I see someone shooting dirty brass cartridges at the range I always make sure I'm several shooting benches away and keep a safe distance.

You can also tell when someone takes pride in their car when they keep it cleaned and waxed. And the same applies to reloading, washing your hands before leaving the restroom, wearing clean clothes, etc.

Below, Bubba dirty brass with brown racing stripes in his underwear.

 

[samnev]

I also clean all my brass in a dry tumbler for 2 reasons. 1st I do not want and residue on it that it picks up from firing or landing on the ground that might scratch my dies or chamber. 2nd is purely aesthetic, I like my brass to be bright and shiny. It just looks more professional. At least imo. I don't know that it shoots any better but I feel better with nice clean brass.

 

[mdmp5]

Functionally, clean brass makes sizing easier, and doesn't gunk the shit out of your dies. Clean brass is also easier to inspect for pressure signs, like rings around the bottom of the body.

 

[drifto808]

I clean my brass for a few reasons because i don't want carbon build up in my dies, and its easier to visually inspect my brass, and finally just my personal preference of taking pride in reloading and having nice clean brass.

 

[Twoboxer]

My experience is a bit different - perfectly clean brass makes resizing harder Then I had to add lube to ease resizing, which in turn needs to be removed.

I still tumble brass a bit before resizing, but not very much. If it's rifle brass, I clean the primer pocket with a powered rotating brush after checking for or actually trimming. Then it's back in the tumbler for a bit to remove the lube.

Different strokes I guess lol.

OP if you're shooting AR's now, in my experience the strap-on brass catchers work well on those firearms particularly when bench or prone shooting.

 

[mdmp5]

Raw spotless brass in a die is sticky, but who sizes without lube? Shitted up dies are no fun; black gook all over the place

 

[Mad_Charlie]

I have been reloading for over 46 years and always prefered bolt action rifles and revolvers. In the last six years my two sons have influenced the type firearms I have recently purchaced. Meaning I now have firearms that throw perfectly good brass away and make you go look for it.

Since I now have brass that is thrown on the ground and can end up with imbedded dirt and grit I have switched to wet tumbling with stainless steel media. Bottom line I clean/scrub my brass to keep from scratching my dies, and to better inspect the fired cases. Besides I'm retired with nothing to do and all day to do it and have brass OCD.

In the past before dry vibratory cleaners and wet tumblers I would use liquid cartridge case cleaners and steel wool to make the brass look good. Also when I see someone shooting dirty brass cartridges at the range I always make sure I'm several shooting benches away and keep a safe distance.

You can also tell when someone takes pride in their car when they keep it cleaned and waxed. And the same applies to reloading, washing your hands before leaving the restroom, wearing clean clothes, etc.

Below, Bubba dirty brass with brown racing stripes in his underwear.

Whatever you do,,don't CLEAN anything, it might get dirty again.

Pride in workmanship and appearance are damn well good enough reasons for me, I hate doing things in "slobby" manner.

 

[Petrov]

I know most people who reload, a lot, tumble or clean their brass. I've been reloading since the 60's and have never had any problems using so called dirty brass. I know I'm no expert by any means, so please enlighten me on this. I do wipe my brass with resizing lube, and wipe them again after resizing. I still can shoot tiny groups consistently. Is there a good reason to have shiny clean brass? I know it's not smart to have crud on the outside of your brass when you go to chamber or resize it. It might also affect pressures if cases have varying amounts of crud on the inside.

Most of you do a lot more shooting than I do. I'd appreciate your advice on this. Maybe I do need to buy a tumbler.....

I reload in large batches, the primer compound is pretty nasty along with all the other stuff so I clean my brass so it doesnt scratch up and ruin the die.
I clean it after sizing to get the lube off. If I dont that lube just collects dust and grit which I then to proceed to jam into my chamber.

 

[Steve1]

Thanks for your thoughts on this....I am learning a lot from you guys.

 

[Trigger Time 23]

Clean brass is also easier to spot when you are picking it up at outdoor range. Not a huge factor, but it does help.

 

[JBNj]

Decapping the primer and fl sizing is done in same process for me. So ill tumble my brass, lube brass before puttin it in my die. Than after sizing/trimming/debur/chamfering ill throw it back in tumbler to remove lube,clean primer pocket and any shavings of brass particles. My clean brass makes it easier for me to inspect. And more importantly makes me feel good looking at my shiny complete cartridge. But it does add extra time to reload so its normally a two day process for me.

 

[KUSA]

Sometimes I chuck the brass up and clean the outside with fine steel wool. I don't care if the inside is clean as it makes no difference in how it shoots.

 

[Danco411]

Simple...my OCD demands it!

 

[TheCytochromeC]

Steve, you sound exactly like my great-uncle. He says the same exact thing you do. Practically, IMO, it's fine to not have glistening brass. Though, I did find a coffee can in his back yard with a bunch of oxidized .243 and .22-250. I asked him,

"You forget about these?"

"No, I tried to wash them..."

"With soap and water?"

"Yup"

"I'll throw them in my tumbler..."

 

[Steve1]

So, I'm wondering what is the best way to clean brass, without spending an arm and a leg. I've seen the tumblers with some kind of media. I've read on here about some kind of stainless media. I've read about washing and drying in an oven. Then I've seen some type of hot solvent cooker and then drying. Pardon my ignorance on this. What's the best in your opinion? I might add that I'm a cheapskate. Maybe that's the reason I bought a Vortex scope instead of a Night Force.

 

[TheCytochromeC]

So, I'm wondering what is the best way to clean brass, without spending an arm and a leg. I've seen the tumblers with some kind of media. I've read on here about some kind of stainless media. I've read about washing and drying in an oven. Then I've seen some type of hot solvent cooker and then drying. Pardon my ignorance on this. What's the best in your opinion? I might add that I'm a cheapskate. Maybe that's the reason I bought a Vortex scope instead of a Night Force.

There's several different medias one can use to clean their brass. I'm not familiar with any other type than the basic vibratory or sonicating kind. In defiance of my great-uncle, I got a basic tumbler from cabellas with media and a cream that's supposed to polish the cases. It cost me around 65$, depending on the type and what sale they're having. It sucks to pay the fee and it seems really pricey but, so goes the firearms lifestyle. If you don't mind me asking, if you've been doing just fine for this long, why start now?

There's nothing wrong with being frugal about money. As my great uncle says, "You don't need that shit, it just cuts into the funds you have for bullets, primers and powder."

 

[HodgdonExtreme]

By far the easiest method to clean brass is a vibratory tumbler. You can buy them for anywhere between $30 and $200, but ~$50 gets you a pretty decent one that'll last a good while.

Then you'll need media. Buying "reloading specific" media is more costly than buying "lizzard litter" at a pet store, but the reloading stuff is better in my opinion because it is sized slightly smaller and doesn't get stuck in primer pockets like the lizzard litter.

A really nice complement to the vibratory tumbler is a media separator, which is basically clam-shell squirrel cage in a tub. With it, you just dump your vibratory bowl filled with media/brass into the squirrel cage, close the lid and give it a few turns. Without it, you have to pick each case out of the media and tap it a little to get the media out.

The wet tumbling process works beautifully but is much, much more involved.

 

[Deleted member 10043]

Tumbling is the equivalent of using a bidet to clean your ass. The OP was more gracious than me. I like that.


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

 

[EddieNFL]

Buying "reloading specific" media is more costly than buying "lizzard litter" at a pet store, but the reloading stuff is better in my opinion because it is sized slightly smaller and doesn't get stuck in primer pockets like the lizzard litter.

Never found any reloading specific that didn't stick in flash holes. The 20/40 grit from Grainger runs out like water. A forty pound bag goes a long way at less than half the price, pound for pound.

 

[Unknown]

I still use the Thumbler's tumbler I bought over 25 years ago. I buy crushed walnut shells in 50 pound bags at industrial safety supply stores. The last bag cost me about $25, and I'm still using it.

Sure, the stainless pins clean brass better, but I am not looking for brass that looks new, I just want it clean so it goes through my dies with out scratching them up and they function better in firearms.

I'm one of those "why fix it if it works" sort of guys, and my old fashioned tumbler works sufficiently for my current needs. I throw the brass in, and come back the next day and it is all done. In 30 seconds, the media is separated, and I'm ready to work the brass. That is the trade off to all the extra work of the stainless pins...my walnut shells don't clean shells as shiny, but it is a bunch less work.

 

[BuzzBoss915]

Steve: you have managed lo these many years without pristine brass and I assume, no misadventures? Why change? Okay, you asked the question from curiosity, so you don't need to actually do anything about it.

I think a lot of these guys hail from a military background, spit shine boots, squared away gear, etc. As one of the replies indicated, if you don't use a gas gun that flings brass in the mud, while denting it as a bonus, then maybe cleaning with a rag is all you need. That's where I'm at, stainless steel tumbling does not appeal to me at all but a vibratory with corn cob does enough for my needs.

There is no right answer; different strokes, etc. BB

 

[tikka6.5]

From Redding:Lubricating Cases | Redding Reloading Equipment: reloading equipment for rifles, handguns, pistols, revolvers and SAECO bullet casting equipment

'Please note that the inside of the case neck should be cleaned with a nylon or brass bristle brush before lubrication is applied; a few quick passes is sufficient (see image #8 below this paragraph). Cases should then be wiped free of dirt or debris but they do not need to be tumbled, ultrasonically cleaned, or otherwise polished before the resizing process. Extremely clean or highly polished cases have a higher coefficient of friction than lightly tarnished cases, making them more prone to sticking."

But the pic of the brass is nice and shinny like it was well tumbled.

 

[Graywolf.260]

I always tumbled my brass with stainless steel, but I just got a new lee collet die and I was wondering the same thing as the op. The collet neck sizing die doesn't require lube, so after sizing/decapping I just cleaned the primer pockets and reloaded. Not beautiful but not dirty, and tiny groups. I'll go on this way for another round or maybe more, until trimming is needed. I don't really give a crap if it's not shiny. I do agree that the outside needs to be clean of debris and grit to prevent damaging the die.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

Why clean your brass??

Cleaning in the long haul is somewhat cheaper than bottle neck carbide dies. They are out there, but bring you wallet.

 

[MJY65]

Pride in workmanship and appearance are damn well good enough reasons for me, I hate doing things in "slobby" manner.

I absolutely agree. No different than washing/waxing your car, trimming the grass around your house, or showering/shaving before you go out in public. Some people are just neater than others.

 

[Blackbrush]

If you have brass that lasts many reloadings (6 or more times), you will develop a buildup with some powders that will at times come out in larger clumps. I don't like the idea of this stuff being unnecessarily blasted through my bore. I suggest stainless tumbling first and then finishing in corn cob treated with liquid car wax.

 

[918v]

Tumbling in stainless cleans the cases inside and out. This has the benefit of eliminating carbon in the necks. This makes the grip on the bullet stronger and more predictable.

It also helps to identify defects in the brass.

 

[Garyc]

Cause it's pretty

 

[Powermac]

There are several reasons to clean your brass really, although some are very minor.
Keeping the outside of the brass clean is important to not gunk up your dies or ding them.
Cleaning the inside, a neck with carbon affects neck tension, and as carbon deposits are uneven it can give you slightly uneven neck tension, it also works as a lubricants for seating a bullet, but if you want that dip them in Imperial dry neck lube applicator, gets better and more even results.
Enough deposited carbon can affect the flash hole and case volume to a minimal level.

 

[Big Z]

So, I'm wondering what is the best way to clean brass, without spending an arm and a leg.

You can get it fairly clean with a solution of hot water, detergent and vinegar. Agitate, let it soak, & repeat a couple times. Rinse well and dry it out on a towel or in a dehydrator or oven. It's a good method for pre-cleaning really dirty brass or removing sizing lube before a final polish in a tumbler.

 

[Wildboarem]

If I'm cleaning up range brass, ie. pistol or carbine stuff I usually tumble it. Sometimes it has sans, snow, mud etc. in it. For my bolt rifles I don't clean or tumble except after 3-4 loadings. That's probably why my accuracy is off, only half minute out of my Dumpy Salvage that I don't clean the barrel on. Hmmm! that's it! See, if you brass isn't happy, then your bullets aren't happy and unhappy bullets have a lower BC and don't fly straight. Ever see a dog hang it's head out the window with a sad face or a kid? The happy bullets are more aerodynamic and have an inherently higher BC, I think that's out of Litz's book. That's why I clean.

 

[EddieNFL]

What volume are we talking? I can't imagine wiping every piece of brass I fire in a month.

 

[leadbullet]

I clean my brass because the carbon fouling residue is very abrasive to the dies and mainly because dirty brass is embarrassing, it is like walking around with soiled depends, not my style bro.
Cheers

 

[Twoboxer]

Couple of things I've learned about cleaning brass are that if I don't wet the brass, I don't have to be there when the tumbling's done . . . and I don't have to dry the brass. With that said . . .

Start with the least expensive, closed-top tumbler you can find that matches your batch size. Closed top so the dust stays inside; least expensive because they are all pretty much the same. Check Smart Reloader at Amazon - I've been using their Dream Case Tumbler for 2 years now.

Crushed walnut works well (enough) and is cheap. I bought a bag of Zilla (Lizard Bedding) from Petco and still have half the bag left. 25 lbs of Kaytee Walnut Bedding is less than $1/lb at Amazon, but I've not actually used it.

I occasionally put a few squirts of Simple Green in the media - seems to eliminate any need for lube on pistol cases through carbide dies on a progressive. Rifle cases will be lubed anyhow. Occasionally a used dryer sheet collects dust and keeps media cleaner longer.

You then need to extract your brass from the media. Can do it by hand (ugh), pour it into a $1 store collander (Eh, dust and stuff inside the cases), or run them through a (covered) separator. Smart Reloader, Lyman, RCBS are candidates.

I tumble and separate outdoors in all weather because I can . . . using a cheap outlet timer to turn the tumbler off after 1, 2, 4, or 8 hours. That way if I don't come back to the cases for a week . . . and that has happened . . . no harm done.

 

[forrestgump01]

I absolutely agree. No different than washing/waxing your car, trimming the grass around your house, or showering/shaving before you go out in public. Some people are just neater than others.

I agree100 percent.
If you do decide to tumble then wet tumbling is the way to go. Was using a vibratory tumbler for years and recently started wet tumbling and won't go back. Expensive...... up front yes , but in the long term no. For what I have paid for media over the years I could have bought several wet tumbling setups .

 

[samnev]

I good friend who's owns a well respected specialty ammunition business told me a number of years ago to put a couple of cap fulls of mineral spirits of paint thinner in my vibratory tumbler every few sessions. Since then I have done that and my brass comes out nice and shiny in less time than without that addition, Also I few fabric softener sheets cuts down on the dust.