i think that is the 5th post ive seen about this. What is making savage special for this issue. Screw holes, screws, rail, idk. Seems like exactly the same setup as any other (common) rifle to rail set up. Ive yet to see this happen on any of the many savages ive owned. Though my 300 PRC is the hardest recoiling one so im sure if its common, this will be the rifle it does it on. It has the larger 8-40 screws on this action, and soon to be a murphy precision rail attached... Currently the oem (i believe egw) rail is on it. What is not present on savage, that is on others, to prevent the rail from becoming loose. Honest question.
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Why the hatred for savage?
- Thread starter Newlongrange
- Start date
no place for a recoil lug on the closed top BA/FCP action. Though maybe the closed top reduced enough flext to prevent this. Either way, Lots of rails do not have a recoil lug yet do not have that issue. As for QC, you're correct, that being said on any rifle i always strip the rail, clean off any and all oils from the rail, receiver top, screw holes, and screws, then re-torque. I suspect that is why ive yet to have issue????
I do believe Frank has mentioned out of spec screw holes at one point or another as well, either on here or one of his podcasts. Others in here have mentioned bases coming loose even with loctite, like the quote you provided.no place for a recoil lug on the closed top BA/FCP action. Though maybe the closed top reduced enough flext to prevent this. Either way, Lots of rails do not have a recoil lug yet do not have that issue. As for QC, you're correct, that being said on any rifle i always strip the rail, clean off any and all oils from the rail, receiver top, screw holes, and screws, then re-torque. I suspect that is why ive yet to have issue????
I’ve never had a rail issue on my savage 11(20 moa EGW rail)
it’s been off 6 times now for every barrel change.
The only problems it had was feeding in the factory stock/mags and quite poor ejection at about the 4th barrel.
Put in a new ejector and extractor and it’s doing ok now.
Is it a competition rig? No
Will it bang steel all day? Absolutely.
The action, chassis, rings and first Shilen barrel costed about the same as my Nuke action and trigger.
it’s been off 6 times now for every barrel change.
The only problems it had was feeding in the factory stock/mags and quite poor ejection at about the 4th barrel.
Put in a new ejector and extractor and it’s doing ok now.
Is it a competition rig? No
Will it bang steel all day? Absolutely.
The action, chassis, rings and first Shilen barrel costed about the same as my Nuke action and trigger.
now i have heard of screw holes being out of spec, that would be a good time to put up with savage as a shit company and demand a replacement. Ive yet to personally see this but im sure its happened as i can agree. Over the past 10 years or so, they clearly stopped caring about quality. So its obviously hit or miss now. I honestly feel that is for everything in current production these days though. Just wondering, if the screw holes are in spec, what would be the cause of loose rails. Gotta admit its an odd duck. Savage is not the only round receiver, that has 4 screw holes, to attach a rail. I see the loose rail thing come up a lot though. If shooting enough to burn a barrel, wouldn't the loose rail thing be a possibility on just about anything of similar design. I figured that is why a lot of the custom actions have the rail pinned, i think i even seen some that have a lug machined into the rail for a slot machined into the receiver. Or just having the rail as part of the receiver (personally want that design myself)
The only recent loose rail issues I remember was on my buddy’s 700 long action.
Certainly pinned, lugged, integral or lots of bigger screws is better than just four #6 screws.
Frank mentioned that he's been seeing Bergaras pop up with the issue recently as well. I've personally never had a base on one of my own rifles loosen off, not on the two Savages I've at one point owned and certainly not on my Tikkas with the pinned lugs or my two Nucleus actions.
When in doubt, bed the Pic Rail to the action with JB.
see, i've heard of using JB weld. Have you personally used it to do so. Thinking of pinning and bedding the Murphy precision rail to my action when i get it. Might even drill, chamfer, and tap for 4 extra bolts being as its a closed top reciever. Thing is i do not plan to ever remove the rail once installed. Plan on leaving enough clearance on the receiver to rebarrel without removal of the rail. So ive been looking in to ways to pretty much permanently attach a steel rail for absolute "zero" retention. Just one less thing to ever worry about. Like you can see in this photo. To get proper eye relief there is not going to be a need for that much rail near the barrel nut. Never had one come loose, just dont ever want to deal with that issue.
Before anyone says it, i know i should have went with something other than savage. Next build will have a custom action with the rail as part of the action. Live and learn, but i want the most out of this rifle. It will be the only savage i ever put this much effort into.
rail in the photo is still the oem one. The murphy precision rail lays on the receiver the entire length. no gap.
Yes I have. 30 Moa Farrell rail on a single shot target action. The two did not mate perfectly flat thus bedding was necessary. Worked perfectly, still does 10 yrs down the road. Shoots as tight at 1K as a designated bench gun, off bipod, till the wind gets up. Factory bbl looks so bad via bore scope that I suggest you never do that, just shoot the piss out of it.see, i've heard of using JB weld. Have you personally used it to do so. Thinking of pinning and bedding the Murphy precision rail to my action when i get it. Might even drill, chamfer, and tap for 4 extra bolts being as its a closed top reciever. Thing is i do not plan to ever remove the rail once installed. Plan on leaving enough clearance on the receiver to rebarrel without removal of the rail. So ive been looking in to ways to pretty much permanently attach a steel rail for absolute zero retention. Just one less thing to ever worry about. Like you can see in this photo. To get proper eye relief there is not going to be a need for that much rail near the barrel nut. Never had one come loose, just dont ever want to deal with that issue.
Before anyone says it, i know i should have went with something other than savage. Next build will have a custom action with the rail as part of the action. Live and learn, but i want the most out of this rifle. It will be the only savage i ever put this much effort into.
rail in the photo is still the oem one. The murphy precision rail lays on the receiver the entire length. no gap.
I have too. There are a number of videos on it - search for something along the order of bedding rail jb weld shoe polish. Pretty straight forward to do, but you need to watch the time on the curing with a couple steps, so it's not like you can set it up and forget about it for a day.
I really Love my 110 Precision .338 Lapua,very Accurate ,bolt glides home like silk,no extraction or feed problems. The only problem I have with it is it is far more accurate than the guy behind the trigger. Mine breaks at 12 oz. velocity is within 32 fps of my .338 Elite Precision and 5 #'s lighter!! The only thing I hate about it is cleaning the copper out. I got thinking that maybe it is the copper in the bullet,I heard from Hornady that they use a softer copper jacket,that could be the culprit!! Pete
The universe got a big win today by you bumping a thread that’s been dead for two years to tell everyone you like your salvage.
Ya’ll are weird.
Ya’ll are weird.
Don’t stop there, Pete, tell him how it groups.
The best so far is 2 in the same hole and the third about , .26 off center of first 2. I get the hee bee geebees when my first 2 touch,just glad to strill get excited at almost 77, Pete Velocity is a honest 2805 to 2815 101,5 LRT Lapua Brass, Fed 215 for ignition,300 gr A tip and Me No inflated specs here, Pete
