Wind holds in reticle?
- Thread starter Jarrett M
- Start date
way easier to adjust for wind using a reticle than a dial
unless you're shooting KD targets where you have known ring sizes then it's not quite necessary
but it also depends what for. deer rifle inside 100y? nope. any sort of precision shooting? very helpful
unless you're shooting KD targets where you have known ring sizes then it's not quite necessary
but it also depends what for. deer rifle inside 100y? nope. any sort of precision shooting? very helpful
You must be talking about Horus reticles, as other tree reticles don’t cost any more cash.
Lots of people don’t use Horus because they occlude so much of the image like a gunked up screendoor screen with bugs mashed in it.
But people use any tree ret for wind holds (me) or dial elevation and use the main stadia for wind.
IMHO the H59 is one of the "Goldilocks" reticles..... all the data you need without the "extras" that get jammed into the Tremor series that cause brain fart under stress/speed.
Mil XT is similar in features.....enough data without being so complicated that cerebrally challenged folks like me cant use it under stress due to excessive complexity
I'm too dumb and lazy to waste time/brain cells to try to calculate size/distance of target.....I'm just gonna laze the target, estimate wind hold with quick wind and send it.....
It’s the best of the Horus, IMHO. If it didn’t have those numbers between the 1st mil and main stadia I’d like it. Those number would block the varmints I shoot, I think.
I'm currently using it on a 556 gas gun and assuming I we're considering the same numbers in the reticle (0.5 mil down from x-axis/cross hair) the first number is 1 mil right/left of vertical.
The "1" wouldnt get into your field of view/overlap a target unless you were holding 1 mil windage at .5 elevation hold
In my neck of the woods that would be a highly unlikely situation and would be a freight train of a full wind value to have to hold.
The numbers ABOVE the x-axis, specifically the "1" works out to be a good reference for shooting movers if I hold the bottom edge of the "1" at the "head/neck" of the mover between 100-200 and gives me good results.
It’s probably because I shoot little(r) weird fast calibers in high winds in the Dakotas and you don’t, I’m guessing. Also shoot 221 FB and 17 Hornet. See below the typical scenarios that I’d run into the numbers overlapping the pdog. I also sometimes run different zeros than 100yds, but the problem can still easily occur with a 100yd zero.
Note I used the S&B Gr2id reticle in Strelok for mockup because the Horus doofus threatened legal copyright action against the app dev so the dev pulled Horus reticles from the app. The grid reticle gives a clear idea on what I’m taking about.
If you try to replicate this in Strelok, be aware that I have different zeroing weather on some mockups but it shouldn’t make much diff.
Leaning towards 100 yds zeros after learning about weaponized math, gunMPH, etc to really nail down what the zero is without relying upon apps to theorize a 300 yd zero or if shooting 300yds IRL, giving environmentals more time to goof with the bullet.
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