Working on the whip... frame swap with bonus round...

[Kinetic Moose]

The start

new frame work and welding up some stiffners...

coating it all

teardown

reassembly after new crutch install

dropping the engine pack back on tomorrow,, then the cab etc... probably a good 4 lazy days left but should be worth it. all because linex didn't coat the inside of the frame and it rusted out in a year... but that's another story. this frame shouldn't have that issue though, half a gallon of cavity wax and a about a gallon of undercoating so far...

 

[Lawless]

I see palm trees. Why would it be so rusty?

 

[Hobo Hilton]

Looking at the "Jack Stands".... Must have a pipefitter around there somewhere..... Good looking project...

 

[The D]

I wish I didn’t have such a bitch-ass hoa. I could have a few interesting threads like this too. Looks like a fun project

 

[DAMNKID]

Hope your cutting the front end off and at least putting Dana 60’s on there

 

[The D]

Hope your cutting the front end off and at least putting Dana 60’s on there

Go big or go home. Portal axles

 

[Kinetic Moose]

I see palm trees. Why would it be so rusty?

so basically they undercoated it and sealed all the drain holes, and forgot to coat the interior, the frames came from the factory with a thin coating but this particular truck was from new mexico so it had zero rust. well, if you coat the exterior and leave the interior alone,,, it went from spotless to rusted through in a year..

 

[Kinetic Moose]

Looking at the "Jack Stands".... Must have a pipefitter around there somewhere..... Good looking project...

yeah, they come in handy... lol

 

[Kinetic Moose]

Hope your cutting the front end off and at least putting Dana 60’s on there

wish i could, but this is just a commuter/toy. the frame isn't built for it, gen 2 had a better frame, this one is basically 1/8 inch tinfoil, i would have to box the whole thing which if i didn't just move I could do, but no shop here,,, not even enough room for my tools. Eventual plan is to pickup a F-450 I think, I sold my old big truck and downgraded to this because it rusted through on the cab of all places...

 

[E. Bryant]

so basically they undercoated it and sealed all the drain holes, and forgot to coat the interior, the frames came from the factory with a thin coating but this particular truck was from new mexico so it had zero rust. well, if you coat the exterior and leave the interior alone,,, it went from spotless to rusted through in a year..

Yep, I've also seen this happen with applying various coatings (especially polyurethanes like Line-X, POR15, etc.) to a panel without getting both sides - it can be worse than not applying any coating at all. Gotta get the whole surface or else it will be attacked through the exposed area, and that can include chips and cracks.

I believe that there is benefit to layers of protection - something like Fluid Film over the top of a coated surface. All the old-timers are nodding in agreement as they tell stories of doing the same with chainsaw bar lube or used motor oil.

 

[Holliday]

Yep, I've also seen this happen with applying various coatings (especially polyurethanes like Line-X, POR15, etc.) to a panel without getting both sides - it can be worse than not applying any coating at all. Gotta get the whole surface or else it will be attacked through the exposed area, and that can include chips and cracks.

I believe that there is benefit to layers of protection - something like Fluid Film over the top of a coated surface. All the old-timers are nodding in agreement as they tell stories of doing the same with chainsaw bar lube or used motor oil.

My twin brother and I had a friendly debate about his siliconing of mud flaps on. We lived in Maine and mud flaps on any vehicle was a must to protect the rockers. He used to bed them in silicone during install to seal everything out. I wondered if this would do more harm than good by sealing stuff in.

Years later he told me that I was right. He felt that the silicone caused more harm than good.

 

[Kinetic Moose]

Yep, I've also seen this happen with applying various coatings (especially polyurethanes like Line-X, POR15, etc.) to a panel without getting both sides - it can be worse than not applying any coating at all. Gotta get the whole surface or else it will be attacked through the exposed area, and that can include chips and cracks.

I believe that there is benefit to layers of protection - something like Fluid Film over the top of a coated surface. All the old-timers are nodding in agreement as they tell stories of doing the same with chainsaw bar lube or used motor oil.

yeah i'm a little nervous about coating it for that reason as well, i've done a lot of repairs on line-x coated things, basically you put a chunk of metal inside of a ziplock and hope no water gets to it, well you know what happens when it does... this undercoat is wax based, and was put on the old frame and held up well, it's alot thinner than what I put on the new frame, but hopefully it lasts. I will update it and keep an eye on it through the years provided I don't get waxed by a blue hair at a traffic light first. The interior of the frame is the tricky part, it had an epoxy coating from the factory but I had to weld and repair about 30 welds from the "factory" because they were either incomplete, full of pinholes, or just piss poor craftsmanship. So the coating on the inside would bubble up and I did my best to pop them and I used 3M Cavity Wax Plus, which is pretty thin and runny so here's hoping. All total I think I have about a gallon on the outside and a good solid 1/2 on the inside. When I coated the inside i flipped the frame upside down, soaked it with one of their nozzles that's suppose to be 360, then flipped it again the next day and did it all over. hopefully this coated enough that I can get another 5-10 years maybe out of the truck. I have a feeling the cab will rust first but I will coat that shortly....

 

[Ravenworks]

Get yourself a gallon of this stuff for inside the frame and doors, or anywhere there are cracks crevices and seams.

They have what you want/need.

Cosmoline for Sale - Cosmoline Direct Rust Preventives, Sprays & More

Cosmoline Direct offers All Classic & Modernized versions of Cosmoline Rust Preventatives, Aerosols, Greases, Sprays & More. Next-Day Delivery Now Available!

www.cosmolinedirect.com

 

[E. Bryant]

My twin brother and I had a friendly debate about his siliconing of mud flaps on. We lived in Maine and mud flaps on any vehicle was a must to protect the rockers. He used to bed them in silicone during install to seal everything out. I wondered if this would do more harm than good by sealing stuff in.

Years later he told me that I was right. He felt that the silicone caused more harm than good.

You're damned if you do, damned if you don't. Punching even small holes through the factory galvanizing is asking for trouble, so you probably want to seal them with something. But applying silicone across a large surface area probably isn't the solution. You can see the same thing with aftermarket fender flares that are secured with double-sided tape.

"Avoid the salt belt" is the best advice I can give from deep inside the salt belt.

 

[Holliday]

"Avoid the salt belt" is the best advice I can give from deep inside the salt belt.

In Canada they use beet juice on the Coquihalla Highway. Supposedly does the same thing without the corrosive and negative environmental impacts.

 

[Holliday]

Get yourself a gallon of this stuff for inside the frame and doors, or anywhere there are cracks crevices and seams.

They have what you want/need.

Cosmoline for Sale - Cosmoline Direct Rust Preventives, Sprays & More

Cosmoline Direct offers All Classic & Modernized versions of Cosmoline Rust Preventatives, Aerosols, Greases, Sprays & More. Next-Day Delivery Now Available!

www.cosmolinedirect.com

Been looking at that stuff myself…..

 

[Kinetic Moose]

Get yourself a gallon of this stuff for inside the frame and doors, or anywhere there are cracks crevices and seams.

They have what you want/need.

Cosmoline for Sale - Cosmoline Direct Rust Preventives, Sprays & More

Cosmoline Direct offers All Classic & Modernized versions of Cosmoline Rust Preventatives, Aerosols, Greases, Sprays & More. Next-Day Delivery Now Available!

www.cosmolinedirect.com

OOOO the gooood stuff...

 

[Kinetic Moose]

Dropped the engine and tranny back in, connected some of the electrical, both driveshafts, power steering pump lines (hope they don't leak). Tomorrow will be the valve cover job combined with cam caps on the backside of the motor, i don't know if they are leaking, or the brand new (year old) valve cover gaskets already died, but the back of the motor is covered in an oil film that has an occasional drip that lands directly on the exhaust.... and as removing the cab makes the job a cakewalk,,, might as well.
all goes well, cab will be going back on sometime saturday...

 

[E. Bryant]

In Canada they use beet juice on the Coquihalla Highway. Supposedly does the same thing without the corrosive and negative environmental impacts.

I've seen that stuff (or similar) used in Michigan's Upper Peninsula, often mixed with sand. I believe that is provides some benefit at temperatures where traditional salt no longer works. (It's also used as ballast in tractor tires, and I learned first-hand that it deteriorates regular rubber valve stems. Fun times with that lesson.)

In the lower half of the state, there is some sort of liquid deicing chemical that's mixed with regular rock salt (it's carried in the liquid tanks that sit alongside the hopper).

Some of the alternative melting chemicals - magnesium chloride and calcium chloride, to name two - are far worse at corroding various metals than typical rock salt (sodium chloride). They can pull water out of the air and keep the chemical reaction going at lower temperatures, and they aggressively attack stainless steel, aluminum, copper, etc.

The environmentalists are pushing to reduce the use of salt on the roads, and honestly I'm inclined to side with them on this one.

 

[D̷e̷v̷i̷l̷D̷o̷c̷A̷Z̷]

All that work and still IFS

 

[DarnYankeeUSMC]

IIRC didn't tucker have the frame on his Toyota replaced by the factory?

 

[sirhrmechanic]

IIRC didn't tucker have the frame on his Toyota replaced by the factory?

They replaced thousands of frames… u real the amount of money they spent.

 

[Kinetic Moose]

I've seen that stuff (or similar) used in Michigan's Upper Peninsula, often mixed with sand. I believe that is provides some benefit at temperatures where traditional salt no longer works. (It's also used as ballast in tractor tires, and I learned first-hand that it deteriorates regular rubber valve stems. Fun times with that lesson.)

In the lower half of the state, there is some sort of liquid deicing chemical that's mixed with regular rock salt (it's carried in the liquid tanks that sit alongside the hopper).

Some of the alternative melting chemicals - magnesium chloride and calcium chloride, to name two - are far worse at corroding various metals than typical rock salt (sodium chloride). They can pull water out of the air and keep the chemical reaction going at lower temperatures, and they aggressively attack stainless steel, aluminum, copper, etc.

The environmentalists are pushing to reduce the use of salt on the roads, and honestly I'm inclined to side with them on this one.

I think they should stop it just to have a little break every now and then, or at least not put 1/2" of salt down for a 3" snow. what happened to just plowing

 

[Kinetic Moose]

They replaced thousands of frames… u real the amount of money they spent.

yeah and I found out it was a selective recall/campaign reserved for those who asked and a select number of vehicles in certain states/areas, and since it was new mexico bred,,,, they didn't mail out a notice. also when I picked it up it was spotless,,, nothing like a few years of salt up north to kill things, and it wasn't even bad those years.