Agreed. I'm a Horus man (maybe shouldn't have said that in public. . .), and I like the .05mil of that.
XTR III Illuminated in my hands
- Thread starter bill_van
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Agreed. I'm a Horus man (maybe shouldn't have said that in public. . .), and I like the .05mil of that.
That makes sense, thanks for the reply. I think I'm going to just have to try finding one to look through.
How is the XTRIII with mirage? I need a new scope and think I will go with 5.5x30 XTRIII. I have the low price arken 4x24, and it is not very clear at 400 yards - that is my max at my range.
Thanks. If the reticle is .035, that makes a difference. I mostly use holdovers with the gun this would go on, and the heavier stadia works better for me for that.
@cake5150 @beetroot Sounds like y'all have been having the same dilemma as I.
I've had four 3-15x PSTs. I think for what they offer, there really isn't anything else on the market for their price. I just got my 3.3-18 XTR3i in last week. Its a nice scope. Optically it beats the PST... however the reticle is still too thin for anything below 8-10x in my opinion. Its useable, but compared side-by-side, I much prefer the PST's reticle thickness. FOV is about a wash between the two. I do find the XTR3i to be a more forgiving eyebox and easier to get behind. My XTR3i magnification adjustment is butter smooth and doesn't even require a lever. PSTs are stiff. Overall, I am very happy with the scope, but I won't be replacing the rest of my PSTs with them as I had planned.
I've had four 3-15x PSTs. I think for what they offer, there really isn't anything else on the market for their price. I just got my 3.3-18 XTR3i in last week. Its a nice scope. Optically it beats the PST... however the reticle is still too thin for anything below 8-10x in my opinion. Its useable, but compared side-by-side, I much prefer the PST's reticle thickness. FOV is about a wash between the two. I do find the XTR3i to be a more forgiving eyebox and easier to get behind. My XTR3i magnification adjustment is butter smooth and doesn't even require a lever. PSTs are stiff. Overall, I am very happy with the scope, but I won't be replacing the rest of my PSTs with them as I had planned.
I wonder if the scr moa reticle would be better for hunting, it looks to be thicker than the mil reticle.
This post with all the pics, is the kind of post that sells scopes!
Thanks!
I really appreciate you taking the time to post those pictures. This scope is very tempting indeed since it has an enormous elevation range, capped windage, purportedly good glass, etc.Reticles are a very personal thing, I get that. I've been hunting in the west and northwest for over 40 years on everything that runs jumps or swims. I have no issues at all with this reticle. That scope is on my 300 Norma, which is my primary big game rifle. I have zero doubts it'll work just fine.
Compared to a PST Viper the Burris checks every box. Folks have to decide for themselves on reticle. But I think with the price disparity between these two optics it's not really an apples to apples comparison. It's more of a "is this one good enough? Or do I pay a little more for a nicer one?" Lord knows we ask ourselves that question all the time.
In the XTR user guide it stated the scope is set 20 moa below center so is this going to be difficult to site in at 50yd on 22LR with 30 MOA base? Little confused due to lack of knowledge .. Any advice for zeroing ?
I asked basically the same question. Start here, then read through to the next page of the thread: https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/burris-xtr3.6913504/page-45#post-10126332
I run the 18x XTRIII on my competition rimfire rifle. There's no difficulty in getting a 50 yard zero. All Burris has done is set the reticle for a 20moa rail from factory instead of mechanical center. It will be "close'ish" when you set you zero if you have a 20moa rail.
I took mine a step further. My 18x has a monstrous travel of nearly 36 mils. I found my 50 yard zero, then dialed it all the way down to see how much room I had. I then used the Burris Signature rings and a little basic math to figure out how much cant I could still add to my scope. I added more shims and ended up with 31 mils of total travel. With a very safe 5.7mils from bottoming out.
I can shoot my rimfire to 500 yards (and yes, I've done it) without holdovers
I already have a 30 MOA base - whole reason I didn't buy the Burris rings. ETA: My concern is bottoming out before I can get Zero'd - so if I am correct in my assumption - I have 10MOA or 2.9 Mills to account for when zeroing. based on what you stated I shouldn't have to worry about bottoming out?
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There's more on the other side of the zero stop if you do. Just adjust accordingly. I have my 3-18 on my Bergara 22 with a 40 moa base and zeroed at 50.
@adubeau you're welcome. Sorry the link I gave went back further (in that thread) than I intended.
When I set mine up, I used shim stock to maintain a small, even gap between the turret knob and the surface that it can bottom out on (when the zero stop pins touch).
When you get yours, you may have to crank it to zero, then loosen the knob set screws, raise the knob a bit, tighten the set screws, now you can dial past zero (point of impact down). Rinse and repeat until you get to where you want to be (zeroed at 50yds), then set the knob aligned at zero (with maybe a .005" shim between the knob and scope body), then lock down the knob, and remove the shims. Now you will have a gap (that might not grind, unless it gets full of debris), and pin interference/stop at your zero.
Because of the design, I scrapped my dialing of close range hold under preference/habit, and figured out the high point distance of my projectile's flight, and zeroed there. Everything else from there (near or far) is elevation (dial POI up).....but my use is not consistent with most people's on here.
I'd offer to video or take more pics for you.....but I sold mine.
When I set mine up, I used shim stock to maintain a small, even gap between the turret knob and the surface that it can bottom out on (when the zero stop pins touch).
When you get yours, you may have to crank it to zero, then loosen the knob set screws, raise the knob a bit, tighten the set screws, now you can dial past zero (point of impact down). Rinse and repeat until you get to where you want to be (zeroed at 50yds), then set the knob aligned at zero (with maybe a .005" shim between the knob and scope body), then lock down the knob, and remove the shims. Now you will have a gap (that might not grind, unless it gets full of debris), and pin interference/stop at your zero.
Because of the design, I scrapped my dialing of close range hold under preference/habit, and figured out the high point distance of my projectile's flight, and zeroed there. Everything else from there (near or far) is elevation (dial POI up).....but my use is not consistent with most people's on here.
I'd offer to video or take more pics for you.....but I sold mine.
I have been curious about the baseball bat length (but lightweight) Tenmile 3-18 so would be curious your thoughts in comparison to the XTR III
This right here brings a smile to my face as both my XTR III 3.3-18 and 5.5-30 models had incredibly stiff magnification rings, combined with the dragon scale knurling that wants to rip flesh off your bones it didn't make for the most pleasant experience. So this along with the previous comments that Burris tried to tame the dragon out of the knurling sounds very promising.
For anyone that has time behind both XTRIII magnification offerings, is there any truth to the claims that the 30x is optically superior to the 18x? I don't see myself using 30x and like ~3x for use with clip-ons at closer distances. The additional weight penalty is undesirable as well. I'm still on the fence about the reticle thickness, but the scope checks basically all the other boxes that I care about. I'm realizing the likelihood that I will get to try one out before buying is fairly low with how new they are.
Knurling seems fine on mine and the mag ring is smooth, not stiff like the Arken it replaced
Thank you, this if very helpful.
The only reason I sold my XTR III 3.3-18 was because I am in the camp of "the SCR2 reticle is too thin at lower magnifications" and I chose the 5.5-30 specifically for rimfire trainer application and didn't mind the thinner reticle for that. The glass in both is outstanding for what you get, I never had both together so couldn't give you a comparison when both are at 15x for example, but I will say that I did not find the 3.3-18 lacking at higher magnifications. I would say this, if you plan to always use the scope at 18x then you'd be better off with the 5.5-30 but if you feel you'll drop down below that (which you likely will) and think you could benefit from the wider FOV then go for the 3.3-18, you won't be disappointed.
Could someone please post a picture of the latest production model turret knobs? Thanks.
I can post some pics and plan to asap. Prob be this weekend if not sooner.
That is good to know, especially in comparison to the USA XTR III, as the knurling in the pics still look pretty aggressive, but look and feel can be very different. I felt at $1700 for the original model these scopes were a good deal, but at $1k I just don't see anything else on the market that can compete with them... great job Burris!
The XTRIII is far superior optically - depth of field, edge to edge, FOV and the eye box way better. I even had my son look through both, his exact words were - "wow the Arken really sucks and nowhere as clear as the Burris". The Arken is heavier at 36 oz compared to XTR @ 29 oz. I am going to the range tomorrow and will take the Arken with and compare the two, will stop by the 600yd range and check the sharpness, will let you know if I have the same issue.. Arken was on my CZ457 for NRL22 - during my first match a few weeks back is when I notice a lot of issues with eye box and why it's being replaced with the Burris - if the eye box didn't suck like hooker on a Billy Goat - I doubt I would have bought the Burris so soon and upgrade at a later date.
Thanks for the pics @cajunaero
cough....cough....matching newer version knurl uncapped windage knob availability....cough....cough
cough....cough....matching newer version knurl uncapped windage knob availability....cough....cough
Not a deal breaker for me and I would have gladly payed the extra for having a exposed turret included in the box since I will most likely loose the damn cap anyway..
When I started this thread, I was sure someone would say "I've got one" but to no avail at this point. Let's keep calling Burris and asking, maybe they'll reconsider. It's should be a simple supply chain item since it fits the XTR 3 non illuminated, the illuminated, and the Pro.....
Birddog, can you influence anybody?
I’ve got a Pro and a III. 
What’s one of these do dads worth to you fellas?
What’s one of these do dads worth to you fellas?
Sent you a message!I’ve got a Pro and a III.
What’s one of these do dads worth to you fellas?
I opened a CS case asking/begging for one. All of Texas will be indebted to you if you just happened to mention it next time the chance comes up!
You're right, I took the Arken 6x24 to the 600 yd range - it was not sharp , it's was useable in a pinch I guess - compared to the Burris - there is really no comparison - even the parallax on the Burris is much better than the Arken - for 50yds it was just under 50, mark. on the Arken it was around 150 -200. Hands down the XTR III is far superior - Arken can't compete - then again I wouldn't expect a 450 scope to hang with a 1200.00 scope regardless..
Thanks for the follow-up.
I think I will be buying the xtr 5.5-30 non-pro when in stock.
Thanks for checking in, I'm waiting for another member who also may have one.... so if by some chance he does not still have his, I'm glad there is additional support from you! Have a good weekend!
Not sure if this has come up before but the throw lever I ordered back in February when I backordered my XTR3i didn’t fit. I had contacted Burris and they quickly put a new one in the mail to me. As you can see from the pics below, the tabs wouldn’t fit between the knurling on the magnification ring. The new one Burris sent out has had the tabs machined off. Fits nicely, even though it moves very easily without it.
Glad you posted. I ordered the lever way before the scope arrived and had not installed it. Same issue as you so I'll give CS a call. You are right.... it is so smooth I didn't even think to add the throw lever. Thanks for the heads-up!
I had the same issue. They just grind those nubs off on the inside by the looks of it.
More reticle pics please…
(All reticle types would be great)
(All reticle types would be great)
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