Anybody using a set of custom turrets with the yardage marked? Thinking about possibly putting a set on whatever scope I buy. Just got a Savage 110BA in 338 Lapua Magnum, hopefully will be buying a scope next month. Any pros or cons to these? I'll probably go with a Vortex, Weaver, or maybe a Nightforce scope, have to see how the funds hold out. Would like some info on the turrets if possible. I really don't know anybody that uses them. Thanks!
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Rifle Scopes Yardage turrets?
- Thread starter RazrRebel
- Start date
Big con is that it's a BDC knob and only good at one set of environmental conditions, one elevation with one ammo. Change anything and it's no good and you are adjusting off of it and having to keep track. Get a good scope with a set of mil or MOA knobs and run your data and dial it on.
They can come in handy if hunting the same tag in the same area, same time of year, with a load that is not temp sensitive. Custom knobs can run in the hundreds, although Leupold gives a free one with their CDS turret scopes. I like them for hunting because I can just dial and shoot, pretty simple. Just like a dope card right on the turret. Most bdc turrets have mil or moa marks on them, so one is not married to the data on that turret, so if you have another hunt in much different environment you can use a dope chart.
Other than that, a roll of 3M white electrical tape and a fine point sharpie can accomplish the same thing for much less money. Run your dope, mark your turret, hunt, rip it off.
Other than that, a roll of 3M white electrical tape and a fine point sharpie can accomplish the same thing for much less money. Run your dope, mark your turret, hunt, rip it off.
If you want to use a BDC you are better off using something like a NightForce Velocity Reticle.
You zero them to minimize the deviation, then you can adjust for changing conditions by using the turrets and holding over using the reticle.
Depending on the rifle and load, you can get really accurate information using the correct velocity reticle, then based off a 200 yard zero, you can fine tune that zero at distance so the deviation is really small. After that the turrets can handle any changes in conditions.
It is best to use one rifle, load combination with the scope, otherwise if you plan on switching ammo or moving the scope around, as suggested stick to straight Mils or MOA. With that your dope is the same whether you hold or dial, they work together every bit as accurately not separately as in the past. (Understanding and Proper Instruction on the Use helps)
Here is one that was put together for the military. (Mk11 Mod 0, 175gr 308) it has mils and the BDC and on my 16" GAP 10 is spot on.
You zero them to minimize the deviation, then you can adjust for changing conditions by using the turrets and holding over using the reticle.
Depending on the rifle and load, you can get really accurate information using the correct velocity reticle, then based off a 200 yard zero, you can fine tune that zero at distance so the deviation is really small. After that the turrets can handle any changes in conditions.
It is best to use one rifle, load combination with the scope, otherwise if you plan on switching ammo or moving the scope around, as suggested stick to straight Mils or MOA. With that your dope is the same whether you hold or dial, they work together every bit as accurately not separately as in the past. (Understanding and Proper Instruction on the Use helps)
Here is one that was put together for the military. (Mk11 Mod 0, 175gr 308) it has mils and the BDC and on my 16" GAP 10 is spot on.
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