Yet Another "Recommended Muzzle Brake" Question

[rg1911]

Going through the posts, it seems that APA, Badger Thruster and FTE, and the Holland Radial Brake are the most-often recommended. Would one of these (or another brake) be better than the others for my 6.5-284 running a 140-grain bullet at 3084 fps? (I have a Miculek brake on one of my AR-15s, and I'm unimpressed with its ability to tame muzzle flip.)

Obviously, recoil is not the issue; but the muzzle flip doesn't let me spot my shots.

Finally, should I wait to thread the barrel until I finally get possession of my TBAC suppressor to make sure it threads on correctly? (The Badger FTE might eliminate this possible problem since it's a clamp-on.)

Thank you,
Richard

 

[bh-ltr]

I've used the Holland brake on a 280 and a 260 which are fairly similar to the platform you're talking about and had no issues spotting shots in the scope at 100 yards even when zoomed to 25 power. As ranges increase then spotting shots only gets easier as your FOV increases.

~Brett

 

[Ballistic Artist]

The FTE is a nice brake. The only thing is the large clamp shoulder just behind the threads. Its not a problem or anything but I think it will be exposed with the can installed. If that's an issue though, you might take a look at the R&D precision MRAD brake. Same idea as the FTE but there is no "clamp shoulder" on the MRAD. The clamping is done on the threads. And from what I've been told, the noise increase to the shooter is minimal and it gives great recoil reduction. Ordering an MRAD next week for a 300WM. Will have better info on it in about 3 weeks I hope. Its a tough decision when there are so many excellent brakes being built. Took me a month trying to decide between the MRAD and the FTE, and about 4 others. Hope this helps. Have a good day.

 

[superde]

JEC Customs Home Page - one of the most effective brakes for its size. It allows me to spot my impacts and misses if i'm not straight behind the rifle, as we are in many competitions when we are put in awkward positions.

The one advantage of R&D is that if it doesn't time up right, you back it up and lock it down so it is oriented correctly.

 

[wvlapua]

Ross Schuler gets good reviews also. Same as a Holland QD for half the cost.. $45 shipped.

 

[AGENT-X]

Ross Schuler gets good reviews also. Same as a Holland QD for half the cost.. $45 shipped.

I agree! I use one as does another guy on our team and we both love them. The people right next to us at various trainings however HATE them.

 

[KillShot]

Take a look at the Primary Weapons Systems PRC. It greatly reduces felt recoil, muzzle flip, and ground signature.

 

[farrier]

richard,
the badger FTE is a great break but it is not a clamp on, It threads on and the clamp is used to time it.

 

[Danco411]

Another is the JP Benny Cooley. I've been running these on my AR's and really like them. I now have one on my Savage 308. It does the job well and comes in different diameters, black and stainless.

 

[mwroseberry]

This is what I went with for my 7rem mag. I have found that directional brakes have the ability to throw a bullet one way or another depending on particles getting in them. I prefer multi directions because I've never had an issue with that on any of my multi's.

M41 Muzzle Brake - Precision Armament

 

[postal]

Cant beat the price of the schuler brakes. They work really well too.

 

[TOP PREDATOR]

i just put one of these on (clamp on) last week: Witt Machine

i tossed a review their way:

I've always had screw on brakes, and was a bit skeptical ofclamp ons hearing stories of baffle strikes and the brake coming off. Through Gearhog I received a coupon, andsince I shortened the barrel on my .308, I figured for the price I'd try thisbrake vs. the price of getting it rethreaded + brake. The biggest thing is measuring your barrelcorrectly. Once you think you have thecorrect measurements, measure again to make sure. In the brake there is a step cut that themuzzle rests against and the rest is tapered a bit to fit your barrel, this isanother reason why accurate measuring is so important, to fully engage the stepwith the muzzle. You can also check to make sure the brake is fully bumped upagainst the muzzle by looking in the groove on the bottom of the brake.

After receiving the brake and inspecting it, it is a VERYnicely machined product. There was a slight burr in 2 of the smaller top portsthat was easily removed by inserting a properly sized punch into the port.There is also numbers stamped on the mouth rim indicating the size of the brake/ your barrel taper. The exit hole ofthe brake for the .308 was .355, so I felt confident of no baffle strikes if mymeasurements and alignments were correct.

Installation was super easy, taking my time and beingcarefull it still only took approx 15 minutes. 1 of the srews did strip out, but Witt provides replacement screws withthe brake so no big deal or surprise this happens, perhaps I overtorqued ittrying to get the tightest clamp I could. Level your rifle, then put a level onyour brake to make sure the porting isn't throwing your rifle to the left orright. This will not only add to the look of the rifle (everything lined up)but also the performance as far as follow through. **This should be added tothe installation instructions as a tip.

After installing, I matched the finish of my rifle (the goodol' Krylon camo). Perhaps I should havewaited to do this in the event there was an adjustment needed, however thepaint did act as a witness mark to allow a visual if there is any creeping ofthe brake. If a more permanent finish isbeing applied, I would wait to make sure everything is good to go beforematching the finish. A piece of tape around the barrel where it meets the brakewill serve the same function. It willtell you if the brake is slipping and if you need to tighten it more. **Another tip that should be added for safety/ proper installation.

The overall appearance, in my opinion, was very nice. It does add 2" of length to yourbarrel. It has an aggressive lookwithout looking too gaudy, even on my sporter barrel. The clamp / bolt section didn't overly out ofplace.
At the range, I was a bit apprehensive to fire off the firstfew rounds, again hearing stories of clamp ons coming off or baffle strikes dueto misaligning. My measurements and themachining to them were spot on, there were no baffle strikes, nor was there anyslipping / creeping of the brake after 40 rounds, (20 165gr 2550 FPS &110gr 2900 FPS "full" loads).

At 100 yards, the POI after brake installation was a full4" higher and 2" right vs. pre brake installation, so a rezeroeingmay be necessary, your results may vary. Once rezeroed, there was no adverse effect on accuracy at 100 through400 yards.

Recoil reduction was noticable, from sitting at the bench itfelt more like a .223. In a proper proneposition behind the rifle and loading the bipod, impacts were easily viewedthrough the optic, with some (as to be expected) but little rifle hop. Dust signature was also greatlydecreased. Muzzle flip in offhandposition and in all positions was greatly reduced. Follow up shots in all positions were easierto accomplish.

Of course noise at the firing position was increased as withany brake. After my initial range trial, my shoulder felt as if I didn't shootat all. I don't know how the brake will hold after several hundred shots, ifthere is a situation with that I will update the review, but after 40 rounds itis holding strong. It appears powderresidue will be somewhat easy to clean out as the ports / baffles are easy toget at and there are no real sharp angles for residue to accumulate and be hardto remove.

After some more rounds downrange I will re-evaluate, but Ido have plans of purchasing another brake for a .243 project as the brake iswell worth the price, as initially it's meeting & exceeding form, fit, andfunction.

 

[sps tac]

R&D Precision MRAD threaded clamp on brake has been great on my .260.

 

[Soct]

I have a Battle Comp on my 308 that works well. It is designed specifically to prevent muzzle rise. You might also look at this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtVB4IubWyc

 

[Nutro]

This is what I went with for my 7rem mag. I have found that directional brakes have the ability to throw a bullet one way or another depending on particles getting in them. I prefer multi directions because I've never had an issue with that on any of my multi's.

M41 Muzzle Brake - Precision Armament

I have this one and love it!