Zermatt Origin barrel changing question.

[Ragnarok127]

Hello SH,

Long time lurker here but decided to jump in here.

I have a Zermatt Origin in a Mdt XRS with a Proof 223 barrel and Vortex Razor Gen 3

I'm looking to get a 6.5 cm barrel and standard bolt head for it so i can swap barrels and cartridges.

My question is when switching barrels and bolt heads, how close is the POI between the two?

I've read that some on here don't torque the barrels to the 75 ftlbs that is called for, any problems with not torquing the barrel each time?

I have the viper barrel vise and action wrench so i do have the proper tools but if i can get away with just hand tightening between swaps that would be convenient.

Eventually i would like a second rig but until then this is the plan.

 

[Dragn’up]

You will just have to swap the barrel out and print it on paper. I have an Origin that I occasionally put my ML barrel on. I wrote down what my corrections are in both barrel notebooks to refer back too. For my equipment, 90% of the time it is right on. I did have one time it didn’t match up, it may have been because my torque was a little off. Consistency is always key.

 

[J McGriddle]

From my experience, the POI shift isnt a big deal. Less than 3 inches from one to the next at 100. I put a different barrel on, shoot a group, make an adjustment, shoot a confirmation group, slip the turrets and off we go.

All of my barrels are shouldered prefits. I cant comment on Savage prefits.

I torque my barrels (with anti-seize) every time. Its not worth the risk, and as mentioned; consistency is key.

 

[LuvDog]

If you have the action wrench then why not torque it to specs?

As for POI shift, some of that depends on how drastic a change in cartridge/load/bullet and distance

 

[Jackomason]

I've made a video on this topic, with a well made barrel you should be within 1-1/2" @ 100 yards. I'd really like to revisit the topic and see what happens with more tourque.

I've got 4 barrels and all but the one I made are right there with eachother.

 

[Rob01]

You won't be too far off changing barrels. I have a couple TL3s and have 6.5 and 6 Creed , .308, .223 and 6mm ARC barrels. All are within a sheet of paper when changing barrels and takes 3-5 rounds to rezero. Simple process.

As for torquing when installing, I torque to about 60-70 ft/lbs. I just put some grease on the threads. Works fine.

 

[kthomas]

When I swap barrels between my 6.5 and 6mm cartridges on my Mausingfield, they are always within a few tenths of each other. That's torqued though, I've personally never gone just hand tight.

You will have to change barrels and find out what the POI difference is for your system.

 

[Ragnarok127]

Thanks all. When changing barrels do you all remove the chassis and optic?

 

[Rob01]

Thanks all. When changing barrels do you all remove the chassis and optic?

I usually do but some don't.

 

[LuvDog]

Thanks all. When changing barrels do you all remove the chassis and optic?

Yes. Otherwise, you have to clamp on the barrel pretty far down.

 

[Digetydog]

I usually do but some don't.

View attachment 8259251

That is a genius way to mount a barrel vice. I am stealing the idea.

 

[Rob01]

That is a genius way to mount a barrel vice. I am stealing the idea.

Genius is pushing it a little lol But it does save room on the bench and keep it out of the way until needed.

 

[Rob01]

Genius is not using a vise

Well if you can torque it down to 60-70 ft/lbs without a vise then good on you. Lol

 

[MilSpecOkie]

That is a genius way to mount a barrel vice. I am stealing the idea.

I was thinking the same thing!

 

[Jackomason]

I leave my scope on and it's a super long Minox ZP5, I haven't had any issues clamping the barrel down further.

I've been thinking about using a piece of 2" tube steel to go into a hitch to mount the vice, then when I need it on the bench I can clamp it in the bench vice.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

POI is going to be up to the individual barrel. You could order two of the exact same prefits and they’ll have two different POI’s just due to the curvature of the barrel and the timing.

Consistency when changing barrels is as consistent as you are. Make sure there’s no debris between the action face and barrel shoulder, and that the threads are clean other than some grease and torque consistently every time and your POI will be consistent.

 

[Digetydog]

I was thinking the same thing!

My current setup looks good, but I have to move my Dillon 750 to mount it on the Inline Fabrication mount on my actual bench.

(The cutting board usually holds my reloading press when I have to move inside during the Summer heat. I clamp it to a Black & Decker Workmate))

 

[redneckbmxer24]

I’ve never mounted a barrel vise. I clamp it with c clamps or trigger clamps to use it. That way it’s out of the way when I’m not using it and I can take it to the and clamp it to a bench the same way if I need to.

 

[CK1.0]

I’ve never mounted a barrel vise. I clamp it with c clamps or trigger clamps to use it. That way it’s out of the way when I’m not using it and I can take it to the and clamp it to a bench the same way if I need to.

Same here, I just clamp my barrel vise into my normal garage bench vise for the 5-10 minutes swapping a barrel takes.

As far as the OP’s question about POI: it’s no big deal at all. I figured I’d swap barrels until I got around to putting an identical trainer rifle together too, but swapping barrels is so easy that a couple of years later I still haven’t bothered with building a trainer. I just have one Origin with near 10k rounds on it over 4 barrels and counting...

 

[MilSpecOkie]

I clamp my barrel vise in my bench vise. But mount on the leg out of the way doesn’t seem like a bad idea at all.

 

[MarinePMI]

You can also mount a barrel vise to a short sawhorse (can be bought at HD). This keeps it handy, but can then be tucked under the workbench when not in use (I also mount a vise to it as well).

Lots of different ways to save space in small spaces...