Rifle Scopes Zero stop and available elevation

[kumaichi]

I just received my Vortex Razor HD and was wondering if setting the zero stop removes available elevation. When I received the scope, when the elevation turret reaches it's stop, there are 2 lines showing under the turret. If I zero the scope and there are 2 lines showing under the turret, wouldn't that mean that there wouldn't be as much adjustable elevation remaining?

I guess this also pertains to the windage turret as well, lets say once the scope is zeroed, there aren't any lines showing, that would limit how much windage I could adjust for wouldn't it?

Thanks for assisting a newbie.

 

[jrob300]

Re: Zero stop and available elevation

If I understand your question... the Zero Stop simply keeps you from using *unnecessary* travel. When dialing really long distances, i.e. anything over 1800 yds for me is 4 revolutions, it's VERY inconvenient to have to count those back DOWN to zero. With the ZS, you just rip it down til it stops, check to make sure it's on "0", and shoot.

If you're zeroed at 100 yds, why would you WANT to go below zero?

On the Razor, you have 125 moa or 36 mil of internal travel. If you can't get where you're going with what's left after a 100 yd. zero and you really want to exploit that extra travel, go up on your base. I doubt that you really need it though.

John

 

[VortexSam]

Re: Zero stop and available elevation

Craig,

You are correct. You lose that travel under your zero. However, it really has nothing to do with the zero-stop itself. On any riflescope, once you zero it to your rifle the elevation under your zero becomes "useless". The only thing the zero stop does is prevent you from dialing into that "useless" adjustment area, where as a scope without a zero stop will allow you to dial into that useless area, and possibly lose your zero point (if you forget to count turns or something).

The only minor exception is some people do like the ability to dial just a hair under zero for particular instances. For example 0.5mil below. You can set the Razor zero stop up that way if you want. It's pretty easy. Just sight in. Once sighted in, dial 0.5mil below, tighten the set screws to set your zero stop there, dial back up 0.5mil to your zero, then install the outer cap at zero, like normal.

If you need help with it or have any questions feel free to give us a call: 1-800-426-0048. Ask for Paul, he will do a great job getting you set up.

-Sam

 

[kumaichi]

Re: Zero stop and available elevation

Thanks John for the response. I think I understand what you're saying. When zeroing at 100 yards, it could be zeroed at say 5-10 mils from the scopes 0 mil so I would have roughly 26 mils left for adjusting out to further distances.

As for the windage if zeroed at 100 yards and there wasn't any wind at that time, the scope would be set around 18 mils so it could be adjusted left/right to compensate for wind, right?

I think I'm getting it, thanks again.

Sam, thanks for the response, I really think I'm getting now, thanks guys for your help, trying to do as much research as I can before posting question on here, I'm sure it's all been asked before.

 

[jrob300]

Re: Zero stop and available elevation

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sam@Vortex</div><div class="ubbcode-body">On any riflescope, once you zero it to your rifle the elevation under your zero becomes "useless". </div></div>

Sam,

Not to pick nits, but if a person, for whatever reason, chose a 300 yd. zero, they MAY want to dial down. That's why I specified 100 yd. zero 'cuz everything is up from there.

John

 

[HillbillyfromAL]

Re: Zero stop and available elevation

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: craig_m</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

As for the windage if zeroed at 100 yards and there wasn't any wind at that time, the scope would be set around 18 mils so it could be adjusted left/right to compensate for wind, right?
</div></div>

Loosen the cap on the windage, turn it to zero and retighten. Then you can use it for the L/R wind as needed from your zero. They should be marked as 0 and then counting up in either direction. Once your zero is established count how many turns past zero to the end of the right travel so you can always go back easily. Like if someone cranks on it for you, ie the kids. And Welcome to one of the best drugs on earth.

 

[jrob300]

Re: Zero stop and available elevation

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HillbillyfromAL</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: craig_m</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

As for the windage if zeroed at 100 yards and there wasn't any wind at that time, the scope would be set around 18 mils so it could be adjusted left/right to compensate for wind, right?
</div></div>

Loosen the cap on the windage, turn it to zero and retighten. Then you can use it for the L/R wind as needed from your zero. They should be marked as 0 and then counting up in either direction. Once your zero is established count how many turns past zero to the end of the right travel so you can always go back easily. Like if someone cranks on it for you, ie the kids. And Welcome to one of the best drugs on earth. </div></div>
You may lose a*little* bit of windage due to small alignment differences between scope, base, action, barrel, but it should only require small amount to get you zeroed L/R. Once zeroed, you should have *close* to full travel left and right. If you run out of windage under normal circumstances with that scope, you need to see a gunsmith, because something is dreadfully out of whack.

John