i want to zero in at 200yds. if i do this will everything be the same as at 100yds. I mean if i dial 114 clicks (297.3 drop inches) to get to 1000yds with zero at 100yds will that be the same with the zero at 200yds?
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zeroing in at 200yds
- Thread starter aussiegolf89
- Start date
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
No. If you zero a rifle at 200 yards, you will be shooting slightly high at 100. This is due to the rise and drop of the bullet from exiting the barrel and reaching its points of impact.
There wont be MUCH of a difference, but you will see it on paper.
No. If you zero a rifle at 200 yards, you will be shooting slightly high at 100. This is due to the rise and drop of the bullet from exiting the barrel and reaching its points of impact.
There wont be MUCH of a difference, but you will see it on paper.
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
Actually, after re-reading your post you are asking if there will be a change from 100 to 1000 and 200-1000.
A bullet is going to have the same rise and drop to 1000 yards no matter where your zero is, if i am not mistaken.
Choosing where your zero is basically changes how much you will have adjust your scope to shoot that far. So yes, you will be dialing in less to 1000 yards from a 200 yard zero than you would a 1000 yard zero. There is no change from your bullet leaving the rifle, only changing from where your scope is zeroed at, to adjusting it to 1000 yards.
Actually, after re-reading your post you are asking if there will be a change from 100 to 1000 and 200-1000.
A bullet is going to have the same rise and drop to 1000 yards no matter where your zero is, if i am not mistaken.
Choosing where your zero is basically changes how much you will have adjust your scope to shoot that far. So yes, you will be dialing in less to 1000 yards from a 200 yard zero than you would a 1000 yard zero. There is no change from your bullet leaving the rifle, only changing from where your scope is zeroed at, to adjusting it to 1000 yards.
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
thanks. i have been using a ballistic calculator and finally figured out how to change my zero. thanks for taking the time to answer my post. good info!!
thanks. i have been using a ballistic calculator and finally figured out how to change my zero. thanks for taking the time to answer my post. good info!!
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
I've thought of zero'ing in at 200 also. Mainly just to see how much higher (on paper) it will be for 100 yards, and how much drop it will be at 300. Sort of MPBR I suppose. But mainly to see if the reticle can serve without dialing at the various distances.
I'm sure others have done that. Any thoughts?
I've thought of zero'ing in at 200 also. Mainly just to see how much higher (on paper) it will be for 100 yards, and how much drop it will be at 300. Sort of MPBR I suppose. But mainly to see if the reticle can serve without dialing at the various distances.
I'm sure others have done that. Any thoughts?
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
you dont have to zero the rifle at 200 yards to see what it does at 100 yards with a 200 yard zero. just dial up for 200 yards and shoot at 100 yards.
you dont have to zero the rifle at 200 yards to see what it does at 100 yards with a 200 yard zero. just dial up for 200 yards and shoot at 100 yards.
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
If your zeroed at 200 yards and you want to shoot 100 just drop one mil and you should be on target no matter what caliber.
If your zeroed at 200 yards and you want to shoot 100 just drop one mil and you should be on target no matter what caliber.
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sps varmint.308</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If your zeroed at 200 yards and you want to shoot 100 just drop one mil and you should be on target no matter what caliber.
</div></div>
1 MIls, pretty bold, try .5
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sps varmint.308</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If your zeroed at 200 yards and you want to shoot 100 just drop one mil and you should be on target no matter what caliber.
</div></div>
1 MIls, pretty bold, try .5
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
If you plan on counting all 114 clicks, that might be doing it the hard way.
You might look into MOA/IPHY
If you plan on counting all 114 clicks, that might be doing it the hard way.
You might look into MOA/IPHY
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
what ever you reset your turret at will be the zero. so that will change the number of "clicks" from there to any other range of adjustment. bassically if i wanted to zero my rifle for 400 yards right now i can do that just by dialing for 400 yards on the elevation turret and then reseting the turret to zero. but then if i wanted to go to 1000 yards from there it would be a smaller number of adjustment. in my case instead of dialing 12.9 mills i would dial 10.3 mills because i already am at 400 yards which is 2.6 mills.
what ever you reset your turret at will be the zero. so that will change the number of "clicks" from there to any other range of adjustment. bassically if i wanted to zero my rifle for 400 yards right now i can do that just by dialing for 400 yards on the elevation turret and then reseting the turret to zero. but then if i wanted to go to 1000 yards from there it would be a smaller number of adjustment. in my case instead of dialing 12.9 mills i would dial 10.3 mills because i already am at 400 yards which is 2.6 mills.
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: aussiegolf</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i want to zero in at 200yds. </div></div>
Why? What do you think you will gain from this over a 100 yard zero? You still have to dial up but now it's just about .5 mils or 2 MOA less. Then you have to worry about dialing down below your zero for shooting at 100 yards. If you zero at 100 yards then everything you dial will be up elevation no matter if it's going to 1000 or in to 25 yards as you dial up to hit at closer ranges inside 100 yards.
Zero at 100. And lose the clicks and inches. If your scope is in MOA then run your data in MOA. Same for mils.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: aussiegolf</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i want to zero in at 200yds. </div></div>
Why? What do you think you will gain from this over a 100 yard zero? You still have to dial up but now it's just about .5 mils or 2 MOA less. Then you have to worry about dialing down below your zero for shooting at 100 yards. If you zero at 100 yards then everything you dial will be up elevation no matter if it's going to 1000 or in to 25 yards as you dial up to hit at closer ranges inside 100 yards.
Zero at 100. And lose the clicks and inches. If your scope is in MOA then run your data in MOA. Same for mils.
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: aussiegolf</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i want to zero in at 200yds. </div></div> I thought that when I zero at 100 I am also zero'd at 200.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: aussiegolf</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i want to zero in at 200yds. </div></div> I thought that when I zero at 100 I am also zero'd at 200.
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
Well I've got no other choice on my .338 set up as unfortunately I've run out of elevation... Handy though that its exactly a 200 yd zero at the bottom of the NF's travel so don't need to upgrade to a zero stop model!
Well I've got no other choice on my .338 set up as unfortunately I've run out of elevation... Handy though that its exactly a 200 yd zero at the bottom of the NF's travel so don't need to upgrade to a zero stop model!
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jagged77</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well I've got no other choice on my .338 set up as unfortunately I've run out of elevation... Handy though that its exactly a 200 yd zero at the bottom of the NF's travel so don't need to upgrade to a zero stop model! </div></div>
I use to shoot for this exact thing and also even milled and bedded bases to aquire it. Now I try to stay away from it a little if possible. I have found that if you are maxing the turrets to the end of travel it can have an effect on the scope holding zero that is not desireable. Also, the last few clicks are usually not of the same value as far as movment of bullet impact. This was found on a few of my scopes and yes some were NF NXS's. My advice would be to go for a 250 yard zero to stay at least a couple MOA off bottom.
Just thought this might interest you.
Jeff
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jagged77</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well I've got no other choice on my .338 set up as unfortunately I've run out of elevation... Handy though that its exactly a 200 yd zero at the bottom of the NF's travel so don't need to upgrade to a zero stop model! </div></div>
I use to shoot for this exact thing and also even milled and bedded bases to aquire it. Now I try to stay away from it a little if possible. I have found that if you are maxing the turrets to the end of travel it can have an effect on the scope holding zero that is not desireable. Also, the last few clicks are usually not of the same value as far as movment of bullet impact. This was found on a few of my scopes and yes some were NF NXS's. My advice would be to go for a 250 yard zero to stay at least a couple MOA off bottom.
Just thought this might interest you.
Jeff
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
I also use to zero at 200 and 300 yards. But lately I have seen the value in doing it at 100. 100 yards is easier to find a place to do it. I feel it is a good idea to check your zero from time to time incase of a pwder lot change or just to make sure nothing has moved. 100 yards is easier, less effeced by wind and shows a smaller group to find center of in some cases.
Jeff
I also use to zero at 200 and 300 yards. But lately I have seen the value in doing it at 100. 100 yards is easier to find a place to do it. I feel it is a good idea to check your zero from time to time incase of a pwder lot change or just to make sure nothing has moved. 100 yards is easier, less effeced by wind and shows a smaller group to find center of in some cases.
Jeff
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Broz</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jagged77</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well I've got no other choice on my .338 set up as unfortunately I've run out of elevation... Handy though that its exactly a 200 yd zero at the bottom of the NF's travel so don't need to upgrade to a zero stop model! </div></div>
I use to shoot for this exact thing and also even milled and bedded bases to aquire it. Now I try to stay away from it a little if possible. I have found that if you are maxing the turrets to the end of travel it can have an effect on the scope holding zero that is not desireable. Also, the last few clicks are usually not of the same value as far as movment of bullet impact. This was found on a few of my scopes and yes some were NF NXS's. My advice would be to go for a 250 yard zero to stay at least a couple MOA off bottom.
Just thought this might interest you.
Jeff </div></div>
Appreciate the comments, its something I am conscious of. I can well believe that even the best quality optics are going to hard pushed to offer 100% reliability and repeatability at the extreme ends of their travel. New topic - zeroing in at 300....
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Broz</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jagged77</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well I've got no other choice on my .338 set up as unfortunately I've run out of elevation... Handy though that its exactly a 200 yd zero at the bottom of the NF's travel so don't need to upgrade to a zero stop model! </div></div>
I use to shoot for this exact thing and also even milled and bedded bases to aquire it. Now I try to stay away from it a little if possible. I have found that if you are maxing the turrets to the end of travel it can have an effect on the scope holding zero that is not desireable. Also, the last few clicks are usually not of the same value as far as movment of bullet impact. This was found on a few of my scopes and yes some were NF NXS's. My advice would be to go for a 250 yard zero to stay at least a couple MOA off bottom.
Just thought this might interest you.
Jeff </div></div>
Appreciate the comments, its something I am conscious of. I can well believe that even the best quality optics are going to hard pushed to offer 100% reliability and repeatability at the extreme ends of their travel. New topic - zeroing in at 300....
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
I set my .338 LM up zeroed at 300 when I had the 8x32 NXS on it. I milled and bedded the base to get 4 moa of bottom. I wanted all of the limited (65) MOA of elevation the 8x32 I could get to get me out past a mile.
Works fine, just takes the right day and conditions to zero check. Plus send a few at 175 to see how high you are and remember it for those close up encounters.
Jeff
I set my .338 LM up zeroed at 300 when I had the 8x32 NXS on it. I milled and bedded the base to get 4 moa of bottom. I wanted all of the limited (65) MOA of elevation the 8x32 I could get to get me out past a mile.
Works fine, just takes the right day and conditions to zero check. Plus send a few at 175 to see how high you are and remember it for those close up encounters.
Jeff
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
Not having enough travel to reach a 100 yard zero is a pain - out of choice I always zero at 100 where possible. As you say however it works out for the best by making use of scopes 65 MOA (8x32 NXS) internal elevation. Not such a bad trade off as trade off's go I guess.
Not having enough travel to reach a 100 yard zero is a pain - out of choice I always zero at 100 where possible. As you say however it works out for the best by making use of scopes 65 MOA (8x32 NXS) internal elevation. Not such a bad trade off as trade off's go I guess.
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lowlight</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sps varmint.308</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If your zeroed at 200 yards and you want to shoot 100 just drop one mil and you should be on target no matter what caliber.
</div></div>
1 MIls, pretty bold, try .5 </div></div>
My 308 needs .7 from 100 to 200, still less than 1.0.
Generally 200 yd zeros work well for most hunting applications because the average hunter can hold dead on anything you see out to about 300 yds and get a vitals hit.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lowlight</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sps varmint.308</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If your zeroed at 200 yards and you want to shoot 100 just drop one mil and you should be on target no matter what caliber.
</div></div>
1 MIls, pretty bold, try .5 </div></div>
My 308 needs .7 from 100 to 200, still less than 1.0.
Generally 200 yd zeros work well for most hunting applications because the average hunter can hold dead on anything you see out to about 300 yds and get a vitals hit.
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: XTR</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lowlight</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sps varmint.308</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If your zeroed at 200 yards and you want to shoot 100 just drop one mil and you should be on target no matter what caliber.
</div></div>
1 MIls, pretty bold, try .5 </div></div>
My 308 needs .7 from 100 to 200, still less than 1.0.</div></div>
What set up are you using ... .7 is actually pretty slow.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: XTR</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lowlight</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sps varmint.308</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If your zeroed at 200 yards and you want to shoot 100 just drop one mil and you should be on target no matter what caliber.
</div></div>
1 MIls, pretty bold, try .5 </div></div>
My 308 needs .7 from 100 to 200, still less than 1.0.</div></div>
What set up are you using ... .7 is actually pretty slow.
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
That's on my 26" Rem varmint action with 165gn SGKs @ 2685. I'm still working on that one, I might be off by .1 but I don't think so.
My other 308 has a NF BR scope on it and it's in MOA and I'm not even going convert (175 SMKs at 2650 up 1.625 at 200 yds. The last shot with it on Monday was an X at 1000 yds up 36.125 not that it's relevant to this conversation)
That's on my 26" Rem varmint action with 165gn SGKs @ 2685. I'm still working on that one, I might be off by .1 but I don't think so.
My other 308 has a NF BR scope on it and it's in MOA and I'm not even going convert (175 SMKs at 2650 up 1.625 at 200 yds. The last shot with it on Monday was an X at 1000 yds up 36.125 not that it's relevant to this conversation)
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: XTR</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That's on my 26" Rem varmint action with 165gn SGKs @ 2685. I'm still working on that one, I might be off by .1 but I don't think so.
My other 308 has a NF BR scope on it and it's in MOA and I'm not even going convert (175 SMKs at 2650 up 1.625 at 200 yds)</div></div>
Your remington has issues, and your other rifle with 1.6 is .46 mils (3.43/1.6) So, again, .5 like I said, your remington is running faster but needs more drop, hmm.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: XTR</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That's on my 26" Rem varmint action with 165gn SGKs @ 2685. I'm still working on that one, I might be off by .1 but I don't think so.
My other 308 has a NF BR scope on it and it's in MOA and I'm not even going convert (175 SMKs at 2650 up 1.625 at 200 yds)</div></div>
Your remington has issues, and your other rifle with 1.6 is .46 mils (3.43/1.6) So, again, .5 like I said, your remington is running faster but needs more drop, hmm.
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lowlight</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: XTR</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That's on my 26" Rem varmint action with 165gn SGKs @ 2685. I'm still working on that one, I might be off by .1 but I don't think so.
My other 308 has a NF BR scope on it and it's in MOA and I'm not even going convert (175 SMKs at 2650 up 1.625 at 200 yds)</div></div>
Your remington has issues, and your other rifle with 1.6 is .46 mils (3.43/1.6) So, again, .5 like I said, your remington is running faster but needs more drop, hmm.
</div></div>
The issue is probably my memory, I haven't made a dope card for that one yet.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lowlight</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: XTR</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That's on my 26" Rem varmint action with 165gn SGKs @ 2685. I'm still working on that one, I might be off by .1 but I don't think so.
My other 308 has a NF BR scope on it and it's in MOA and I'm not even going convert (175 SMKs at 2650 up 1.625 at 200 yds)</div></div>
Your remington has issues, and your other rifle with 1.6 is .46 mils (3.43/1.6) So, again, .5 like I said, your remington is running faster but needs more drop, hmm.
</div></div>
The issue is probably my memory, I haven't made a dope card for that one yet.
Re: zeroing in at 200yds
thanks for all the info guys. i really need to learn moa and mils. i have wanted to for some time but have a hard time finding info on them. anybody have a link or site that teaches mils and or moa. i would rather use mils because i have a few mil retical scopes..
thanks for all the info guys. i really need to learn moa and mils. i have wanted to for some time but have a hard time finding info on them. anybody have a link or site that teaches mils and or moa. i would rather use mils because i have a few mil retical scopes..
