Zeroing with exposed turrets

F

fadetoblack188

Private
Minuteman
Dec 9, 2020
61
4
Ny
#1
I apologize for my ignorance , first time sighting in with a scope with exposed turrets. ( viper hst 4-16x44)

I am going to zero at 100 yards. My question first, it is a used scope. Do I need to bottom out the windage and elevation turrets to “ start fresh”? Spin them both completely counter clockwise then start zeroing from there?

next, after I achieve zero I remove turret cap and rotated and reinstall on the zero hash then lock down currect? So I no the “0” hash is my 100yards.

thanks again, first time like this.
 
#2
I find this easier to do at night if you don't have a boresight laser or anything. Go outside in the dark and put a flashlight as far away as you can 25-50 yards or so. get the rifle set so it wont move and find that light in the barrel then proceed to dial the turrets in on it. That should get you on paper at 50 yards, shoot a couple 2-3 rounds pointing at the same spot, adjust turrets to get closer to center then move out to 100 yards rinse and repeat.
 
#4
no.
while the scope isn't going to zero the same on every rifle, it is probably close enough to start.
the best clarity is in the middle of the scope theoretically, and that is where factory zero is afaik.
you can't "get more elevation" that way. the zero is the zero for that scope on that rifle.
for extra long range, folks will use a canted rail to use more of the elevation and bring longer shots closer to center.

(btw, technically you would top out elevation not "bottom out", because when you "dial up" you're moving the crosshairs down.)

you would want the same windage adjustment left or right, so that also starts out near center from the factory.
 
#8
fadetoblack188 said:
Perfect so I will just start zeroing right away.

remove caps and re install on zero when done.

I am thinking I will buy a bore sight before heading to range.
Click to expand...
bore sight or flashlight at night will get you on paper, but just moving closer until you start hitting something, or starting out with a big sheet of cardboard are all options.
 
#9
Your scope box should have some brass shims (look like a fat C) if you want a zero stop when you remove your elevation turret cap there will be a gap below the actual turret and the scope housing. Place those shims in alternating directions in between the turret and the housing until the gap is filled(doesn’t have to be super tight). Then reinstall your cap and index to zero. This will allow you a few clicks below your zero but not a full rev so you don’t get lost in your turrets.
 
#10
I will typical bore sight, either use a laser or just look down the bore and adjust until you're close. Once bore sighted float the turrets until they're centered. Say you have 10 MIL elevation caps, float the turret to the center so you are at 5 MIL above zero stop, should have +/- 5 MIL to get zeroed. It really depends on the scope and how you zero the turrets.
 
#12
Tons of advice already, but absent any special HW (boresight lasers, etc)

1) shorter distance
2) larger target
3) both 1+2

using a ±1 ft target backer at 25 is easier than ±4ft backer at 100yd

At a minimum, I would allow for ±20moa (6mil) in case was on a 20MOA base

±6 mil at 100yd is ±24in/2ft for reference...use min 4-6ft backer
±6 mil at 50yd is ±12in/1ft for reference...use min 2-3ft backer
 
#14
fadetoblack188 said:
I apologize for my ignorance , first time sighting in with a scope with exposed turrets. ( viper hst 4-16x44)

I am going to zero at 100 yards. My question first, it is a used scope. Do I need to bottom out the windage and elevation turrets to “ start fresh”? Spin them both completely counter clockwise then start zeroing from there?

next, after I achieve zero I remove turret cap and rotated and reinstall on the zero hash then lock down currect? So I no the “0” hash is my 100yards.

thanks again, first time like this.
Click to expand...
Go to Vortex site and get the manual for that scope and it has perfectly clear instructions on how to bore sight/zero.

I have a PST Gen II 3-15x44 and like the scope

So, first elevation. ROTATE THE ELEV TURRET FULLY CLOCKWISE TILL IT HITS THE STOP.

This is right from the manual. Then take the turret cover off.

Now shoot your group.

Loosen the set screws on the inner turret. This leave the zero stop where it should be.

if you can keep the gun very stable, move the reticle from the POA to the POI. I personally prefer to shoot on a grid target and I can readily see how much adjustment to make. Note, there are mil or MOA hash marks on the inner turret to facilitate this.

now tighten the set screws on the inner turret without moving it at all. Now your zero is at the zero stop and the clicker is reengaged.

put the outer turret cover back on aligning the zero on it with the witness mark on the scope.

Windage is much easier as there is mo zero stop to maintain. Just adjust it to where it needs to be and put the turret cover back on alighting the zero with the witness mark.

I hope this makes sense as I’m on a phone and prob not in condition to drive! LOL

RTFM = read the fucking manual! LOL
 
#15
KeithStone said:
Your scope box should have some brass shims (look like a fat C) if you want a zero stop when you remove your elevation turret cap there will be a gap below the actual turret and the scope housing. Place those shims in alternating directions in between the turret and the housing until the gap is filled(doesn’t have to be super tight). Then reinstall your cap and index to zero. This will allow you a few clicks below your zero but not a full rev so you don’t get lost in your turrets.
Click to expand...
With a ViPER PST??

mine is a PST Gen 2 and def no shims involved, supplied, or needed as far as I can recall.

also not mentioned in manual.


Is this how the Gen 1’s did it??
 
#16
If you have a rest or bags pull the bolt and look down the barrel, find a mark or aim the barrel at a target. Then set the crosshair on the same place as the barrel is pointed. For an AR upper I separate the upper and lower and do the same thing with the upper.

Vortex has good directions on how to handle the model of scope you have. I would wait until you have a good zero to set the knobs or zerostop.
 
#18
gunsnjeeps said:
If you have a rest or bags pull the bolt and look down the barrel, find a mark or aim the barrel at a target. Then set the crosshair on the same place as the barrel is pointed. For an AR upper I separate the upper and lower and do the same thing with the upper.

Vortex has good directions on how to handle the model of scope you have. I would wait until you have a good zero to set the knobs or zerostop.
Click to expand...
It is really as gunsnjeeps explains that simple. Back it up if necessary to 50 or even 25 yards just to get it centered. Enjoy the learning curve of bullet flight path. Remember once you find your center everything changes when you change loads. She will rise & she will fall everything thing else is on you.

R
CBDR
 
#19
Baron23 said:
With a ViPER PST??

mine is a PST Gen 2 and def no shims involved, supplied, or needed as far as I can recall.

also not mentioned in manual.


Is this how the Gen 1’s did it??
Click to expand...

Yes I was referring to a gen1

And yes @spife7980 i agree-shitty scope Had it on a AR for the side by side on the farm looked through it one day and the crosshairs were sideways. Sent it back and vortex sent me a new one and it’s still setting on the shelf in my hunting room.
 
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