Seems like every retailer is now celebrating ATF’s belated implementation of e-filing regardless of suppressor type. I say they’ve proven they can’t be efficient with e-filing Form 1’s for so long this shouldn’t get us too excited. Am I missing something? What’s the excitement about, boosting sales?

Got my test results back. Positive just reinforces the why I have felt so crappy.
Called my deer hunting buddy to give him the news and he said that the LGS I went to on Black Friday is open part time because people that work there have COVID.
I’m sure it is a coincidence.
On the plus side I scored a RRA lower and Romeo 5 for $275. And won and Anderson lower in the Black Friday Raffle.
Mixed blessings for sure.
Loading up on zinc, C, and D, that “they” recommend.

According to the ATF, eForms will launch between December 15 - 28, 2021!

Here is what you need to know about ATF eForms:

• The New eForms will make owning an NFA item (suppressor, SBR) quicker and easier.
• Launch Date is estimated between the 15th and 28th of December.
• If you have an order with Silencer Shop click here to learn what you need to do!

We have the latest news on ATF eForms on our blog and YouTube.

Deleted his last thread for the ATACR that had pics from an old listing

If it’s not a scammer , I apologize and will immediately delete this thread

Homeowner tries to stop snake infestation — and ... - NewsDeal​

https://newsdeal.in › WORLD



1 hour ago — A Maryland homeowner burned down their home in Poolesville after trying to use smoke to manage a snake infestation, causing $1M in damages, ...

Does anyone know if this place is a scam or not? It looks sketch and I called the place and a foreign guy picked up and told me they had H4350 in stock which is hard to believe.

OK, I have a couple bolt guns, including an older Rem 700, a 783, as well as a Ruger Scout rifle; all three chambered in .308

I like these rifles just fine, but looking to build assemble something myself…want something lighter and a lot more accurate to reach out to longer ranges. My typical ‘hunt’ is shooting pigs over bait at 100 yards or less, with some deer or other smaller game animals out to 200-300 yards or so herein the hill country, or back home in the Southeast pine forests... I want the option of taking bigger game and/or longer ranges way out in West Texas where we’re looking to buy significantly more land.

I have some machine tools here at the house, with minor gunsmith skills. Can build you an AR in any flavor, or do minor tuning/fitting on pretty much any type of hand gun, but I know my limits. I’m by no means a real gun smith.

Budget for this build is ~$10K all in with scope and bipod.

I very much prefer the option to swap barrels/bolts for multiple caliber options, but that’s not a prime consideration. I seriously looked at the Barrett MRAD, but it’s as heavy, or heavier than my current rifles…I want to go the opposite direction for weight. I want light(ish) with a folding stock and a 16-18” (maybe as much as 20”) barrel in .308, with …well, some other heavier/longer reaching caliber in a barrel up to 24”or so that I can ethically take antelope-size game out to 800 yards or so, and maybe do some lower-level long range competition shooting.

I’d love that second caliber to be some flavor of magnum, preferably starting with a ‘3’ or higher, but not sure what would work on a short-action chassis needed for my primary .308 configuration. I know there are a lot of choices out there, but open to ideas as long as that caliber will work with the same chassis As the .308.

That’s a hard requirement btw … Have a shit ton of .308 ammo already, and reload that caliber a lot. Very comfortable with it, and it fulfills 90% or more of my hunting needs.

Leaning towards a Christensen Arms MPR chassis, and some flavor of a carbon fiber barrel, but know almost nothing re: what’s out there for Actions these days. Prefer something based on the Rem 700 action, and one that takes standard AICS mags. Easy buttom would be to just purchase a complete CA rifle, but mixed reviews on their actions, and I’m sure there’s something else out there that would scratch that ‘home brewed’ build itch I always get.

I was looking at Defiance Machine actions due to their huge customization choices, but again, have no real knowledge in this area outside of factory rifles. Again, I want to build my own…well assemble it anyway.

Pretty set on another Night Force or Schmidt and Bender scope…maybe Leupold. Probably in the 5-25 range, but open to suggestions. Have some flavor of all 3 of those scopes already mounted on other rifles, and impressed with how they perform and have held up.

Anyway, that’s enough typing for now…appreciate any input from The Hide.

Have my thick skin on tonight too, so any critiques gladly accepted as well!

Man , those lockdowns down under must really be taking its toll on the ausie's !

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So i recently learned about gain twist barrels and wondering has anyone out there done extensive testing on them in correlation to chamber pressure and velocity cause i know a more aggressive twist barrel increases friction/forces on the bullet therefore increasing chamber pressure and conversely lower twistrates have less friction/forces reducing chamber pressure
So lets say in a prefect world where you had the ability to make a barrel in whatever twistrate you wanted and you had a physics engine that could simulate the chamber pressure when the bullet is at any point in the barrel during the firing process
So someone could theoretically tune a gain twist barrel to make to to where you could fire heavier bullet with an above max load of powder but start with a very slow twist rate like a 1-12 to keep the chamber pressures to an acceptable level but increase the twist rate quickly to let say 1-6 for the sake of discussion to increase chamber pressure as it goes down the barrel to try and keep the chamber pressure curve more flat (as the gasses expand) and keep the force pushing the bullet down the barrel more consistent and have more total force acting on it through out the length of the barrel without increasing chamber pressure above acceptable levels therefore allowing you to use more powder cause the slow twist rate at the beginning keeping pressures down to an acceptable level and then try and keep the chamber pressures higher further down the barrel using a gaining twist rate and thus increasing velocity without increasing chamber pressure i think this would also help with more complete powder burn as well cause your trying to control that pressure wave of expanding gasses using the forces on the bullet from your gaining twistrate versus on a normal barrel where ur chamber pressure is at it’s highest right when the primer is ignited basically goes down progressively as the bullet moves down the barrel and the gasses expand

Idk im not gunsmith and i’m no physics expert but learning about gain twistrate barrels had me thinking on the theoretical possibilities and what you could do with custom gain twistrate barrels

Shh, dont talk about anything other than WHO and Fauci's rules

Yall see this shit? Woooohooo boy this is getting good.

A thief took a yellow school bus on a wild joyride through Brooklyn Thursday afternoon, ramming it into several vehicles in a futile effort to elude police officers surrounding him in vehicles and on foot.

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I’ve been looking for a stainless T3 Varmint in .223 for a long time. I posted a WTB over at 24hourcampfire back in Feb and a guy sent me a message a couple of weeks ago that he had seen holy cow’s ad here. So I joined your party and made a deal with holy cow. Great seller.

HC said the rifle was probably unfired and I’m sure he’s right. Either that or someone went to a lot of trouble.



All of my Tikkas wear Limbsaver recoil pads so I put one on the Varmint. It keeps the LOP consistent. I installed a Yo Dave trigger spring as well as an aftermarket bolt shroud. Warne mounts and a Leupold FX-3 12x40mm AO Target and she’s ready for the range.







My 1-8” Tikkas all shoot the 75 grain ELDM exceptionally well. I’m hoping this one does, too.

Thanks again holy cow.



P

So, I recently purchased a Bergara B14 HMR 20” .308 and am new to the “long range” precision world. I plan to purchase a Vortex Viper PST Gen 2 5-25x50 as it is in my price range. An ex Marine Corp sniper friend of mine recommended that I purchase 30mm Steiner T-Series Extra High rings, which I did. I am currently shopping for a 20 moa base for this rifle as well.

I have read threads on SH about how to measure for rings, after purchasing the Steiner rings... I have also seen several thread comments stating that low rings work fine for a 30mm tube and 50mm objective lens on a Remington 700 SA type action. My questions are, did I waist my money on the extra high rings? And, what is the downside to too tall of rings? Is it simply a matter of cheek weld? If so, will the adjustable cheek riser on my stock rectify the issue?

I should add that this will be my “hard use” do-all rifle from 100-1,000 yards.

Atlas CAL Gen 2 with RRC BTC-PRO and hawk hill talons - $ shipped

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WTS Gen 2 CKYE-pod New in box
arca RH (LH nob)
prs legs
$450 shipped

I plan on taking my SCAR 17S to 1,000 yards next Friday. It will be shot off a tripod, with the following attachments/upgrades: Trijicon ACOG 3.5 .308 BDC, Geissele Super SCAR trigger, SilencerCo Omega .30, 175 SMK handloads and/or 175 SMK FGMM. Think I can make it? Lets hear it gents.

I'm hoping someone more knowledgeable can help me decide my next move. I have a home built ar10 that is very inconsistent. Major parts are:

Aero m5e1 builder kit
Aero BCG
Rainier Ultramatch mod2 18" 1:10 308 barrel
Superlative arms gas block
Geissele ssae
Jp buffer system

When trying to work up a load for it I noticed it is wildly inconsistent. A few different times I found loads that shot really well on the initial test groups, but then would open up like crazy for no apparent reason. The most extreme example was a load that shot multiple .25 moa groups, and the next day when I set up to chrono it the same recipe measured over 3 inches on the first group, and never dropped below an inch again on further testing. I lapped the receiver and bedded the barrel. I double checked all torque values. I also used go/no go gauges to check headspace. I tried shooting it dirty as well as after a deep clean. After switching powders and projectiles multiple times, I never have found a way to make it consistent, whether good or bad. I tried shooting a box of berger 175s to see what it would do with factory ammo, and it shot an average over 10 rounds of almost 4 inches.

So the spot I'm in now is I'm wondering how to fix this rifle. Maybe Rainier barrels just suck, and I need to rebarrel it. I'm more inclined to think something else is contributing to this though. I've had several people tell me I'm lucky if I get an ar10 under 2 inches, but I've seen enough examples to the contrary to think this isn't the maximum potential of the rifle.

One thing that may or may not be related is a weird symptom I'm seeing on the base of some of my cases. I see what looks like a smear of brass near the primer. Something is gouging into it and pushing the brass into a little bump that I can flake off with my fingernail. The fact that it only happens to some of the brass and not all tells me something inconsistent is happening that may be related in some way to my accuracy issues. So do I just need to get in line for a high end custom barrel or is there something else to look at? Thanks!

Mother Who Criticized Kyle Rittenhouse's 'Bad' Parents Stabbed To Death By Her Son On Thanksgiving​

​

This video is on the YT channel of a based, conservative Black man:​

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As of late, every time I open the site I have to manually scroll to the bottom and "Toggle Width" to get rid of broken up ad images in the margins. Not a big deal; just wondering if there's a fix.

Selling a lightly used impact SA 737R
308 BF right hand.
Action was purchased from Brian Allen at ATeam precision and has their engraving on it as seen in the picture (ATeam24)
Looking to sell or trade(action only)
Trade for a impact magnum bolt face 737
Or defiance ruckus magnum bolt face
Long actions preferably
Will consider other actions pm me with what you have.
$1300 shipped to your FFL

This is my first attempt at selling on the hide. I have been a member for a couple years but built my prs rifle with all new components so I just looked around on here mostly. I can provide some references of friends that sell on here.
Pm me for any other info that will be beneficial to selling on here. Thanks

Disclaimer - all of this is my personal experience -Disclaimer.

KAC SR15 I have approximately 1400 with this rifle and I sold it. My issue with it is that the gas system is very tightly tuned. By that I mean if I was not using very specific ammo, I had feeding failures. In addition, every three or four hundred rounds I needed to clean the rifle in order for it to function properly.

Radian Model 1 - I actually don't have anything bad to say about it. It has functioned flawlessly, a much better experience than the KAC for instance. I sold mine and replaced it with the ADM UIC MOD 2. For those that are not aware a Radian is effectively the ADM with very little difference but more than 1k more expensive. That is a lot of money for a roll mark.

Bravo Recce - I kind of liken this AR to a Glock. It is very rugged and it is very reliable. It just works. My issue with this one is that it is very over gassed and was just unpleasant to shoot. Sold it as well as I did not want to replace the fillings in my teeth.

A common positive of the above three rifles is that their brand names have real value. I made money on the KAC and Radian, the BCM was close to break even.

The three rifles that I am currently rotating through when I shoot now are

1) ADM UIC MOD 2 - if you like the Radian you will like this rifle. It is a little more gassed than the KAC but it is not unpleasant to shoot in anyway. It is a 1 MOA rifle at 100 yards and I now have a little more than 4k rounds through it without a failure of any kind including shooting some crap steel cased ammo, being rather rough with it, and not cleaning or maintaining it religiously.

2) JP - 15 Professional Rifle - As much as I like the ADM, the JP 15 is just a little better. The JP is a sub MOA rifle at 100 yards. On several occasions we have shot a couple of rifles and it prints the tightest group. The JP is the most pleasant to shoot, the tuning on the gas system (adjustable gas block) along with their bcg and their buffer (silent capture spring) are all very nice. I use a Dead Air can and the JP results in the least amount of gas in the face of all of the DI guns that I have shot. Unlike the ADM, I do need to put effort into cleaning/lubing this rifle.

3) The PWS Mk 114 Mod 2 - for those that don't know, this is an AR style platform that utilizes a long stroke piston like an AKM. This is far and away my favorite rifle to shoot with a can and none of the DI rifles really compare. It has a 3 setting adjustable gas block and when you set it for suppressed you can just go to town with it. This rifle is currently at 5200 rounds and again not a single failure. Because most of the gas is vented up front, you almost never need to clean it. It is another accurate rifle in that it is 1 MOA with most of the ammunition we have used. My gripes are minor, I would recommend changing the trigger and it does not have a forward assist.