jLorenzo said:

Can we get some pics of the rifle? It's a long action?

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The D said:

I’ve worked with a few people that were this dumb. Thankfully they didn’t last very long

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nikerret said:

I’ve seen the memes. You found one in real life? Fantastic!

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John T. said:

One of my daughters' car. 1980 Formula with a 301cu Olds engine.
All original, other than being repainted by previous owner, who had stated it had never been winter driven, which based on the under body condition , was believable.
She and I also replaced the stock diff with a Camaro posi, just because we had access to one. .
These pics are 10 yrs old. She stripped the interior just to clean down to factory finish, and survey interior metal condition, which proved to be basically rust free.
The factory line sheet was still tucked in the springs of the rear seat, and was in mint condition.
Her intention is to rebuild/upgrade the engine, replace the suspension, rubber door/trunk seals, window felts, etc., and replace the seat covers, which are faded. It runs and drives 'fine', but not how it did in '80.
She got a boy friend and has done little to it in this time, other than drive it occasionally.

Dad might have to take over the project on his own if she doesn't soon realize this car is more important than 'boys'.


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HuskerP7M8 said:

If it were possible to obtain two barrels that were dimensionally identical for both the bore and chamber, it’s a given the dispersion will increase with the faster twist at 50 yds/50 M shooting RF.

Performance at extended distances is still unknown regarding twist because I’ve yet to find any reliable technical data specifically for RF available at any Ballistic Research Lab.
As regards the testing I’ve found on multiple forums since this subject became popular, I’ve only seen a handful of tests out of hundreds that were worth reading.

As you should know since you frequent Jerry Stiller’s forum, I wrote the “Experimental Design” for this type of testing and Jerry built two rifles with identical components other than twist rate.

For those of you interested, one the most important parts of the test design are to fire both rifles simultaneously as they sit side-by-side so as to minimize any difference for wind effects and any other changes in the environment. The test design also requires chrono data for both rifles and plotting every shot for point data to use with the most efficient and robust statistical metrics. There are many other factors to consider in the test design, but that's the gist of it.

It’s been close to two years that Jerry has been waiting for me to arrive and conduct the testing, but because of my health issues and my home almost being destroyed by a storm last summer means I’ve been unable to get down there. I’m still hoping it happens if I can get my act together.

Landy

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ToddM said:

That's the rub with the Wicked Edge and some of the super fancy sharpeners, you can get ridiculously sharp edges mirror polished edges with it, and it can reprofile a blade really fast with the lower grit diamond stones, but it'a a lot of setup time and effort to hold that level of consistency and that insane sharpness is usually gone after a couple cuts, then your edge is what a variety of much faster and cheaper faster sharpeners will provide. So it really comes down to if sharpening is a chore you want done fast with good results, or it's a labor of love that you don't mind spending hours on to get the perfect edge.

Over the years I've found that there's more value in evaluating what you cut and the right blade edge profile and stone grit to make that happen. A lot of people go for super polished fine edges these days when in reality for the average pocket knife they'd probably be better served with a more toothy edge.

My knife sharpening pretty much falls into two categories.

1) Pocket knives etc. that I care about. I'll use something (lansky, worksharp manual, wicked edge etc.) to set usually a 18 deg angle, then I use a sharpmaker at 20 deg to maintain it's edge between "major" sharpenings. I tend to set more toothy edges in the 600-800 grit range because for me they stay effectively sharp much longer than super fine polished edges. If they are just a beater knife I'll use the ken onion to set the edge.

2) Kitchen knives, the reality is they often take a beating, even if you use cutting boards, sooner or later someone won't use a cutting board or they cut on a plate etc. For those I use a Work Sharp Ken Onion to quickly set a 16-17 deg edge, then I maintain with a steel and a sharpmaker at 20 deg. The difference between the set edge at 16-17 deg helps a bit with slicing, and the 20 deg sharpmaker microbevel helps make the actual edge a bit thicker for durability, and it ensures the sharpmaker can maintain the edge for longer. If you set the main edge too close to the sharpmaker, it doesn't take long before the sharpmaker isn't enough anymore and you have to power sharpen the edge profile again. These I'll put a much finer edge on since for most kitchen knife tasks you want something that slices really well as opposed to a toothy edge.

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theLBC said:

HUGE: Barack Obama Was Using USAID to Pretend to Send 'Aid' Overseas But Was Laundering It to Train 'Rent-a-Riots' Instead | The Gateway Pundit | by Jim Hoft

In a shocking revelation, Mike Benz alleges that Barack Obama misappropriated USAID funds to orchestrate protests abroad, raising serious questions about government transparency and the use of taxpayer dollars.

www.thegatewaypundit.com

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DarnYankeeUSMC said:

Didn't Boeing leave a giant piece of space junk attached to the space station?

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Tack425 said:

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