Gentleman, today I have something "special" for you. I am presenting you with an opportunity to join the latest and greatest internet controversy. I am selling my RAL8000 TommyBuilt T7 and a whole package of goodies with it. This gun has spent the majority of its time under my ownership going back and forth to TommyBuilt, and I estimate that it has around 600rds through it from myself and the folks at TB. During its last trip home, the gas system and BCG were rebuilt with the latest iteration of parts and tuned in order to ensure "reliable" cycling. After receiving the pistol back I fired 50rds suppressed and 50rds unsuppressed with 0 malfunctions and proper bolt hold open on each magazine. That being said, I cannot make any guarantees about the future performance of this weapon system. I can however guarantee that it will continue to look extremely cool.

Included with the T7 Pistol are:

• Custom TommyBuilt Tactical Pelican Case
• 4x HK German made 30rd magazines
• RAL8000 Cerakoted MP7 Stock with an HK backplate/stock adapter
• TommyBuilt MP7 style foregrip in RAL8000
• SureFire MP7 Muzzle Device with shims
• 450rds of Fiocchi Range Dynamics 4.6x30mm
• TBT Patch and various T7 stickers

I am asking $6200 for this package. Shipping + Insurance is included. Pistol and goodies shipped separately. Payment method is open. Only thing I won't take is Venmo.

If you are located in the fine state of Texas, the B&T MP7 Suppressor is also available. The locking collar on it has been serviced by B&T, and the suppressor has 50rds through it. $6700 for the package including the suppressor.

I’m selling a like new set of 34 mm low ARC M-brace scope rings. Never taken in the field, no scratches or imperfections and no loctite applied. $150 shipped

You tell me the pros and cons. Want to build .300WSM
Some influencers would be cost and weight
I have a 6.5 PRC built on a TL3.

Selling my Burris XTRIII 3-18x50 with scr2 mil reticle. Comes with Warne mountain tech low rings. Scope is in overall good condition, does have one mark on the objective from laying it on a bench that scratches it which you can see in the pics. Also comes with the lens covers, box, and sunshade.

Asking $900 tyd

Looking for the amp code for 6.5x47 alpha brass (lot 01A230717D6). I have the old non-aztec amp. non-neck turned brass. I emailed AMP and havent heard back.

Hey everyone, (admin move this thread if needed)

Wyatt Barber here with an exciting update from MullerWorks Barrels. We've been working hard behind the scenes, and I'm thrilled to announce that we've reduced our lead times to just three to four weeks!

Whether you're looking for rimfire or centerfire barrels. We offer both cut-rifled and button-rifled options, all crafted to the highest standards. Custom barrels made to order and proven by some of the best shooters around.

Thank you to everyone that has waited for our barrels in the past and now are in a position where you won't have to wait long!

If you have questions or want to talk about possibly getting something in the works, email me ([email protected])

Regards
Wyatt Barber
MullerWorks Manufacturing

Wondering from those who run a chest rig for their AR’s, either 5.56 or 7.62, what do you wear and what do you carry with it?

I’m just getting back into rifle shooting after some time away and am putting together a chest rig for my general purpose 5.56 AR currently. I was looking for something low profile and not a lot of weight.

I went with the ATS Tactical Gear Low Profile 5.56 Chest Harness. I was fortunate to find one new from someone for $85, they’re priced at $129.99 on ATS’ website. Plan on using it for training courses and to carry ammo, range finder, and maybe a few other light items while hunting hogs and coyotes. If I like this rig, I’ll consider ATS’ 7.62 version to support my other rifle.

Look forward to hearing and seeing what you use and carry.

Brand new in the box: Precision Armament Hypertap muzzle brake. Matte black. Standard body. 6.5 with 5/8x24 threads. $150

For the Ohio Poacher!

Simple question, cause I see so many and wonder what the story is. What does your screen name mean.

Mine is simple, it is my nickname throughout a lot of my life. My last name is Cogburn, and I grew up in Arkansas really close to Ft. Smith and Judge Parker’s court. The 98 is the year I joined Uncle Sugars chain gang

For your consideration, catch and release- M16A4 clone - semi auto
Add a rear sight and ACOG to complete - for easy hits to 600 meters and beyond
Pleasure to shoot - round count is 75 rounds, all match 69 grain. Hitting 12” steel at 600 was cake

Anderson lower:
- mil spec trigger
- A2 grip
- A2 buffer and stock with trap door storage and mil cleaning kit

PSA factory upper:
- correct handguard
- PSA 1:7 20” 5.56 barrel with A2 flash hider

BCG included
Butt stock mag holder vertical grip are included
Sling not included

$1050 entire rifle
$700 URG only
Prices are shipped, insured

Venmo, Zelle, money order
No trades funding another project

Thanks for looking

Remington PSS, Leupold MK4 4.5-14x50 with Vortex low rings. 1/4" M1 knobs, TMR reticle, not illuminated, appear to be a 20moa rail.. You can look up the serial number if you like, it's in a picture below.
Only selling as a complete package, fairly priced for a good deal. Tired of "living my youth" clearing out certain things.

Captured pertinate pictures to show condition, obvious has some wear externally and on the bolt. Bore is fine and the crown, light shinning from action on crown pics. Honest 5 shot .75, of course I've squeeked a couple smaller with FGMM/168. I got this used, unknown true round count but no issues with it, all original as I can tell. No issue with the scope, tracks, repeats, etc. If you don't know, the rifle has a 26" barrel, .308 1n12 twist.

me to FFL(copy of ID will accompany)
USPS money orders/check with hold--no PAYPAL, Etc.
1550 open to offers--get it done.

I sold my Bergara B-14 Hunter. It currently has an MDT HNT-26 on it but the guy I sold it to also wants the original stock. I found the floor plate but I can't find the damn action screws. Can anyone help me find some? Also, can I just use some Remington ones and cut them if they don't fit? I assume if that's the case then these from this link will work?

Looking for a lightweight 243 6 6.5 for my daughter. Prefer custom. Carbon proof barrel and a shorty.

Let me know what ya got in pm’s please.

So I recently swapped from my 10.5 supressed setup which was a bcm parts based build I did a while back. The gas was tolerable and using a spikes t3 buffer ejection was great upsupressed and pretty darn good supressed. I switched to 12.5 to gain some velocity and it's still carbine length gas system. I have an adjustable gas block here wondering if you think it's gonna be way way to gassy now with a standard block? Getting out shooting tomorrow just curious if I shiuld swap the adjustable block on it or run it and go from there? New barrel is also a BCM

Searched the forum here and couldn't come up with much info on bedding a CZ with the manners stock, so I just jumped right in.
Disclaimer, I'm no expert, in fact this is my first glass bedding job, I'm typically more of a chassis guy, if you've bedded before just pass this one up, it has no new info for someone that's done this before. This is more intended for someone like me who wants to try bedding but not sure if they're ready to jump in or not on their CZ.

Before starting any work, I took a pencil and scribed a line down the action and barrel even with the top of the stock so I would know where it should sit when done. I then removed the barreled action and wrapped blue tape very tightly around the barrel (as close to the end of the fore end as you can) until I could dry fit it back in the stock without the the barrel or action moving when bumped around, and with the pencil line even with where it was when the barreled action was bolted in the stock. This lets the action and barrel sit at rest in the proper place without being bolted down.
Now to the stock prep, I started with clamping the stock in the vise and milling two relief grooves for bedding to bond/be thicker in, this could also be done with a dremel, nothing exact about it.
Next I bored out the rear screw hole slightly over 1/2", the front I did the same, the factory pillar drilled out for maybe 1/8" then is just pressed its way out while I drilled. I wouldn't hand drill these, definitely use a drill press or mill, hand drilling the front screw hole will result in the bit walking rearward since the hole is open on one side and make a mess of the magwell I suspect.

The pillars I used came from pete's pillars, typically I'm a make and do everything myself kind of guy, but as affordable as the pillars are, pre made, with studs and grade 10.9 bolts included as well it just made sense not to waste my time making them.
I dry fit the pillars and trimmed the bottoms to fit where the bottom metal rides, I also sanded the pillar holes in the stock a little more to make them slide in nice and easy and leave room for epoxy.

I used hard wood floor wax for release agent, can't remember the name off hand, big yellow tin. Get a big handful of Q tips from your wife, all my wax was applied with q tips, I also stole some playdough from the kids to block off all the holes and crevices. Apply wax thoroughly and to everything!
I taped off everything I thought may get epoxy on it, looking back, I won't ever tape anything moving forward I don't think, clean up is a breeze and we'll get to that in a minute.
Next I mixed up some devcon and took the leap of spreading it in the stock, not too much, just a nice even coat that will ensure some squishing out but not too much (wish I had taken more pictures), put some on the pillars themselves too, I didn't put quite enough. I was very nervous about this part, but don't be.
On this first attempt I was worried about epoxy getting in the crevices and magwell near the front screw/pillar so I didn't spread epoxy there to start with, now I wish I had, I ended up coming back afterward and bedding that area once I was no longer overly worried about the situation.
I squished my freshly waxed action in the stock, grabbed some tape and wrapped a few very tight wraps around the stock over the scope rail near the rear.
I went ahead and put another wrap on the front and proceeded to start some clean up. This taping method is what the internets call stress free bedding, the goal is not to bolt the action down therefore inducing torque and bending to the action potentially, so it sits perfectly stress free when bolted down later as well.
This is the part I wish more people made clear, clean up is ok, and not as hard as you think it will be. I took a pocket straight blade screw driver and scraped off the majority of what squished out top and bottom, next, take those q tips and some rubbing alcohol (pour a half ounce in a little bowl) and start removing the excess epoxy from the stock and action. The alcohol will almost melt the epoxy and really make it lay down and workable/removeable, use plenty of q tips and alcohol.
Once cleaned up I wrapped a few more layers of tape around the action and stock, ensured my pencil line with still even with the stock, and waited.
This tip is one I found elsewhere on the internets, and it worked beautifully for me. I checked on the excess epoxy I still had sitting on my cardboard box mixing tray every 30 minutes or so, and at 2.5 hours it was pretty firm (this is in a 70 degree garage, moderate Kentucky humidity). I chose to follow what I read and I cut my tape, flipped the gun over, and gave the action a couple easy whacks with a hammer and punch to knock the action out of the stock.
I flipped the stock over and to my delight the epoxy was pretty set but not 100%, then I tried what the internets said and used an x-acto knife to trim the excess epoxy that squished out around the trigger inlet and mag well, this worked much easier than dremeling or milling and came off fairly easy since it wasn't 100% cured yet.
Then I placed the barreled action back in the stock and resecured with tape just like I had previously done, again ensuring all my pencil lines lined up like they did previously.
The next morning I popped it out again, with little to no effort, and cleaned up all my playdough and cleaned off all the wax. Adding epoxy in front and adding more around the pillars are two things I wish I had done more. I ended up taking super thin ca glue and filling in any small gaps around the pillars and stock, it seemed to also soak into the foam/fiberglass/whatever is around the pillars so I feel it may have also stiffened up the area around the epoxy and pillars as well.
Over the next couple days I found myself wishing I had just bedded the front area that I was previously scared to do, so I decided to go on and do it. This time without any tape and with much less worry, it bedded just fine and cleaned off the stock just fine with the alcohol and q tips. In the pictures it still needs a little trimming, I also bed the first couple inches of the barrel based on internets guru's advice, we'll see if it stays or get milled back out.
Now I know how the guys on youtube bed guns so worry free, once you do it once and realize it's not that big of a deal you really calm down about the whole process.

Looking to sell 4 kits of lightitup occular lights for a sendit. This kit has 5 lights rather than the 3 of a brandt built. There are enough parts to do 4 scopes.

Looking for $35 shipped for everything
Payment via papal f&f or zelle


Sold!

Selling 2 shooters global pulse levels, both come with charging cord, pic attachment, and m-lol attachment. Both work as they should. The only thing is i modified the Picatinny bases to fit on my pic rail where i like running them, it does not affect performance.

Looking for $115 shipped each, payment via paypal f&f or zelle. Both sold!

Good condition - no use for them anymore.

$40 shipped

As the title states I've been having some issues with the optics (yes plural) on my 716 DMR G2.

When I bought the rifle I also bought a Trijicon 5.5x50 with .308 BDC reticle. First time out at the range I tried to zero it at 100 meters (we use the metric system). I couldn't get it on paper at 100. I tried 50 meters and finally got on paper, but the POI was about 10 inches high after maxing out the elevation adjustment. So I figured the factory 20 MOA top rail was not something the Trijicon was made for. So I decided to change the optic. I managed to sell the Trijicon and bought a Sig Sauer Tango 4 6-24 x 50 and fitted it with a Contessa SBT02 FW - 30mm mount. I laser bore sighted at 25 meters and managed to get the POI and POA to align. Next time out to the range I was on paper at 100 meters but POI was about 8 inches high. I started adjusting elevation and it went 8 more clicks and bottomed out. I checked the owners manual for the zero stop function and I already had it adjusted all the way (did this when I was bore sighting.) So yet again I'm left with an optic that cannot dial enough elevation to zero this rifle on 100m.

What do you guys think? Am I missing something obvious or am I just buying the wrong scope/rings combinations to get this rifle to zero. Groupings are good, I was using 147gn Mil-surplus ammo and getting MOA groupings, just 6 inches above POA. I've been thinking of hand loading some heavier bullets and maybe zeroing for 200m, but I would really like to zero it with the mil-surplus ammo because it's cheap. Reloading components brass, propellant, bullets, etc. have become ridiculously expensive in South Africa so keeping a semi-auto fed, especially in 7.62, can become an endless money pit.
I'm taking a financial knock every time I buy a scope new and sell it as used a few weeks later. I would really like the next scope I buy to be the last one I buy for this rifle, at least for the foreseeable future.

I would really appreciate any advice or recommendations. Are there any other 716 G2's out there who have had similar problems? What optics are being used successfully on these rifles with similar ammo combinations?

Up for sale is iray tx60c with lrf this unit is like new.
5600.00 + shipping
No I won’t take less
No I won’t eat the shipping
No I don’t want trades

The image on this unit is very nice

Whidden 6mm Fat Rat die set like new SOLD

Lee 300 BLK 3 die set SPF

Kinetic 6.5 Creedmoor virgin brass, 157 pieces SOLD

Kinetic 6.5 Creedmoor 1x fired brass, 154 pieces SOLD

PayPal, Venmo, CashApp accepted

In the last 10 years or so, I've always opted to buy an illuminated reticle, but now as I'm contemplating another scope, I realize that I rarely use the illumination feature. Yes...I have them on all but two of the hunting rifles, that I rarely use for anything other than range toys. Both of my "precision" rifles have illuminated reticles...again, I don't recall a time when I've used it. Don't currently own any variation of night vision...but I thought I'd include as a variable in this discussion.

I typically build out rifles for a SHTF/combat type scenario but that doesn't seem particularly relevant these days.

Is an illuminated reticle a must for you on a PRS "type" build that is not used for hunting?

Kinda just a hodge podge of Rimfire Targets I used at the house for practice but have since quit rimfire all together and cleaning some stuff out......1st is from JC Steel is the KYL Racks with 2 racks and 4 Targets (1/4", 1/2" 3/4" and 1") all break down to small package also from JC is 2 double Hangers with a 1", 2- 2", 2 1/2" 3" targets and then 4 A&J spikes and single holders with a 5 and 6" circles and the a 4 and 6 inch square .......figured up new would be 300 bucks or so will sell for 170 shipped (basically half price and then 20 bucks to ship)