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Optics Leupold VX-3HD 1.5-5x 20mm w/ illuminated Firedot Twilight Hunter reticle, Vortex 0.90" rings, BC caps.

Mounted on a hunting rifle and used during one range trip to fire exactly 13 rounds to zero and group before I went with another rifle instead. The firedot reticle is great. Includes Vortex 0.90" height rings and Butler Creek flip caps.

$525 shipped.
I can only do a money order or zelle. Sorry, no venmo or paypal.

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Firearms GAP Gladius

GAP Gladius in .308 Winchester. Standard bolt throw, TT Primary trigger, 20 inch Bartlein barrel with GAP #6 contour, 1:10 twist. 5/8x24 threads with thread protector. Manners T2A Multicam stock with adjustable cheekpiece, front studs, bedded. Hawking M5A SA Bottom metal. Hawkins 30mm low rings with level. Graphite Black cerakote. Gladius 20MOA mount. 2 Al 5rd mags. Rifle is brand new and has never been fired. $5,000 plus shipping to your FFL. PayPal friends and family. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks

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Optics Zero Compromise Optic scopes in stock at cstactical.com

"Tons starting to ship in! Call or text me to get in line at 916-628-3490 - Richard

04/05/25: What's in stock and on the way below and if it's not in stock than PM, call 916-628-3490 or email [email protected] to get an ETA"

Also contact us to build you a complete ZCO package with accessories. FDE flip caps are also now available!
https://www.cstactical.com/Zero-Compromise-Optic

Zero Compromise Optic ZC420 4-20x50 TREMOR 3 10 MIL Locking $4,390.00 in stock!

Zero Compromise Optic ZC527 5-27x56 Tremor3 10MIL NLE $4,740.00 in stock!
Zero Compromise Optic ZC527 5-27x56 MOA Locking $4,240.00 in stock!

Zero Compromise Optic ZC840 8-40x56 M1X 15MIL NLE $4,410.00 in stock!
Zero Compromise Optic ZC840 8-40x56 M3X 10MIL Locking $4,410.00 in stock!
Zero Compromise Optic ZC840 8-40x56 M3X 10MIL NLE $4,410.00 in stock!





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Accessories XLR Element 4.0 Magnesium and Aluminum chassis in stock!

We have the XLR Element 4.0 in stock with new options as described below:

XLR Element 4.0 Magnesium models come with a Carbon Fiber grip and stock:


XLR Element 4.0 Aluminum models come with a Ergo grip and C6 stock:





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XLR Element 4.0 SA Aluminum with the C6 Stock
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Optics Leupold Mark 4HD 6-24x52 and 8-32x56 in stock!

Leupold Mark 4HD 6-24x52 PR2-MIL - 183823 $1,499.99


Leupold Mark 4HD 8-32x56 PR2-MIL - 183970 $1,599.99



Call 916-670-1103 for package deals :)

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Optics Sig Sauer Kilo10K-ABS HD Gen II 10x42mm Rangefinding Binoculars

Sig Sauer Kilo10K-ABS HD Gen II 10x42mm Rangefinding Binoculars $2,699.00 https://cstactical.com/sig-sauer-kilo10k-abs-hd-gen-ii-10x42/

Details

Reengineered as the result of direct user feedback, the most powerful and capable ballistic rangefinding binocular is here.

Introducing the KILO10K-ABS HD Gen II Rangefinding Binocular. With a completely redesigned optical system, the Gen II device improves color accuracy and low light performance by 95%. Now featuring direct wind input buttons, the Gen II allows users to quickly modify wind speed and direction with ease.

Complete with the same powerful onboard environmental sensors, digital compass, active-matrix OLED display, and Gen II Lightwave DSP Ranging Engine that has helped the KILO series rangefinders dominate the hunting and long range shooting space, the KILO10K-ABS HD Gen II is the single solution for discerning shooters.

FEATURES


  • Updated Optical System Improves Color Accuracy and Low Light Performance By 95%
  • New Direct Wind Input For Instant Modification To Wind Speed And Direction
  • Applied Ballistics Elite With Complete AB Bullet Database And Custom Drag Curves
  • Gen II Lightwave DSP Ranging Engine With Extended Range (XR) Mode
  • Onboard Environmental Sensors And Digital Compass For Real-Time Ballistic
    Calculations
  • Active-Matrix OLED Display Provides All Relevant Ballistic Data In A Crisp Red Reticle
  • Drop Remote Waypoints With Basemap App

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Time pieces/Watches?

So, after much "mentoring" into getting a well made, rugged, high end, end of the world proof watch by @sirhrmechanic, I caved and picked up a Resco Gen 1 Patriot. The thing is a freaking tank, and is definitely something that will get passed down to one of the kids when I leave this world.

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Anyone else have some nice watches? I'm pretty impressed with the quality of these Resco's...

Lefty Shooting Righty?!?

I'm left-handed and getting fairly serious about precision rimfire (PRS, NRL22). I have shot right-handed bolt guns my entire life. I currently run a heavy barreled B14R, and I feel that it hasn't held me back up to this point. Right now, I come off of the rifle with my support hand to run the bolt.

Looking for the opinions of people who have done this way longer than I have and who can steer me in the right direction!

Optics Leica APO Televid 65 straight

Looking to sell my Leica spotting scope. This is a 65mm straight body with 25-50 eyepiece. I bought it brand new and it has lived in a pelican case it’s whole life. I only use when instructing rifle classes for calling hits on paper. I have never touched the glass and it has been babied. Not a mark on the body or the glass. Only selling to go angled so students can use it easier. Fantastic clarity and brightness.

$2200 shipped to CONUS. Zelle, check or money order.

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Supertrickler settings thread

Just got mine 3 days ago (and I LOVE this thing which is rivaled only by my AMP annealer as an object of technological reloading awesomeness), and have spent about 4 hours each night trying to use human intelligence to improve upon the artificial intelligence settings. I will revise this OP as I learn more how to do it (and what errors I'm currently making), but here's a start to how I have painstakingly arrived at some pretty impressive improvements on the AI, and some of my settings. I welcome others to post their settings here too for the benefit of all. General notes and process:
  • I read the entire 74 page manual
  • I set realistic rational goals - for me that means a 10% overthrow rate with the fastest times possible; and an error tolerance (+/- 0.02 vs 0.04 grains) that is proportional to the kernel size and charge weight. For my 50 BMG charges, I set +/- 0.04
  • Make sure scale is level, flourescent lights and fans off - you don't want to spend 20-30 minutes tuning an unleveled ST
  • I highly recommend you set up and use the ST in a climate controlled environment. The fine motor is highly temperature sensitive, and moving to a hotter or colder environment will wreak havoc on your settings and drop times
  • Keep at least 1/2 pound of powder in the trickler at all times to minimize variable loading of the tubes. Because you cannot see the level, just throw in a pound and top off every so many rounds. It doesn't take much longer to empty 1 pound than it does 1/2 pound. If you're getting aberrations in your throws, first make sure the hopper has not emptied too far
  • I adjust the pulse as per manual so that the 100% setting does not allow powder to spill out of the cup, and the 1% setting barely allows any to trickle out. Also, as per below, the vibratory motor is sensitive to heat and tube loading. If you're getting aberrations in throws, ask yourself, has the fine/pulse had time to equilibrate to the new powder flows and the new operating temperature (which may fluctuate during a reloading session as the motor heats up). Finally, if you're using a load that has a bulk tube dispensation, set the max powder flows with a "bed" of powder in the cup. you will get a higher "max" vibration speed (which is better) with a bed of powder that minimizes kernels bouncing out of the empty cup
  • I start with the AI to get the basic settings; also, do not interfere with the settings until the purple hat turns on (although page 69 of the manual shows how you can tell based on the instrument colors which ones are still being programmed by AI.)
  • All the while I observe where the machine seems to be inefficient, how it's dispensing powder, looking at the tubes and the readouts on the screen including the bulk, fine, and pulse inflights which are recorded after each drop, see below
  • I first go in and reduce the "wait (stabilization) times" from the AI generated times (for Bulk, fine, and pules) which tend to be >500ms, and I take them down to ~300-350ms to see if I can get away with that by trying 10 throws to observe what's happening. You can especially reduce the bulk stable time down to about 350ms if there is a fine with an offset and pulse after that (which there should be). HOWEVER, if you're too aggressive reducing the stable times, variable inflights may result. This is bad - you need consistent inflights.
  • Speaking of inflights, if you are having trouble getting consistent ones, first check if your hopper is full; next make sure it's not soon after a change in the settings, because it will take 5-10 throws for them to equilibrate; then of course make sure your stable times are sufficient. For inconsistent pulse inflights consider changing the cautious time off optional feature.
  • For both Bulk and Fine, you generally want the inputted "inflight weights" (yellow) to approximate the iteratively measured weights by the machine (in grey) so it can anticipate what's happening with the next throw and make adjustments in real time - so you can basically leave these alone unless they're markedly divergent (the grey one will vary from throw to throw because of stochastic variance; you can see the last inflights on the screen for the last drop after it stablizes, see above and below). Also, pay attention to the last pulse inflights as they may be a clue to overthrows with the last pulse
  • I usually put in an offset in the Bulk settings so that it stops far enough away from the final charge that the fine setting can do a major portion of the "catch up" rather than the pulse. (If the final bulk dispensation is too close to the target weight, the fine tube won't kick in and it will "pulse" up the final charge. This is much slower). Usually the offset is on the order of 1 grain, but varies
  • I markedly reduce the ramp down weight in the fine setting that AI has set so that it doesn't start to slow down till its damn near the final charge. Like 0.1 or 0.4 grains. With a "stabalize time" on the order of 300ms
  • For the fine profile I leave the high at 100% unless I'm getting a kernel bouncing out more than occasionally - then I take it to 90%; for the minimal setting, I have some (like RL15) at 70% minimum (this is the "speed" that it "ramps down" to in the fine cycle). For RL50, the minimum is 20% so it may turn out that it depends on grain size. For some charges (like Accurate 2015), I have the low speed at 5%!
  • For the "pulse on" time, it depends on how much powder comes out with a pulse at the set pulse motor speed. For RL15 I have it at 145ms, for RL50 I have it at about 70ms. For the "pulse off time" I'm converging on a value of about 250-300ms - I don't want it to pulse and wait and pulse and wait. I want the pulses in relatively rapid succession. however it may need longer for the larger powders.
  • When you start to tinker with it, it takes a while to understand what is happening. But, just like the Hornady podcast 50 says, you can see quickly what DOESN'T work (major caveat here; because changing settings can change powder density in the tube and therefore inflight weight, you have to throw at least 5 charges after a setting change to allow it to equilibrate. If you change something and get an immediate overthrow, don't abandon the new settings until you see what happens 5 throws down the road after everything equilibrates.). Once you think you have it tuned, I encourage you to record 20 consecutive drop times and average them to check and see if you're really achieving anything. For my RL15 308 load tonight, I dicked around for a long time trying to beat 7 seconds for 45 grains, and then I started logging my times for 20 drops and averaging them and realized I was chasing my tail - my tweaks were all converging on the optimal result (7 seconds, I think?) and fixing one problem created another. There is irreducible stochastic variance in dropping powder charges.
  • It was then that I realized that the "optimal" settings for 45gr of RL15 were not optimal for 25gr of RL15; my times for 25 grains were greater than those for 45 grains! I had to adjust the inflight weights, the ramp down weight, the low motor speed in the fine setting and the pulse settings; doing so nearly halved my throw times for 25 grains compared to the settings that worked for RL15 with 45 grain weights.
  • If you have good speeds but you're getting excessive overcharges, look at the fine tube to see what it's doing. Also check the screen where it tells you under the charge time the contributions of the bulk fine and pulse. Is the fine overshooting with inflight? or the pulse? If it's the fine, try adding an offset to the bulk on the order of 1 grain. Or you can increase the ramp down weight or change the low motor speed. Personally I don't think its likely to be the stable time as long as that's over 300ms. If it's the pulse, try to figure out if the pulses are too big; if they are, change the pulse on time or the motor speed. If they're too frequent, increase the pulse off time.
  • Under the time for the last drop once it stabilizes, there will be bulk, fine, and pulse times (if each function was used). Those are the inflights for that last drop. If you had an overage or a very fast or slow one, those times can guide you as to the cause of the deviation. Was the inflight for the fine motor or pulse higher than average? That may be the source of an overthrow. Were they smaller than average? That could cause a long drop.
  • Confirmed observations show that the vibrator motor needs to "warm up". So if you change environments or get it tuned for when its hot and let it cool off, you may need to let it warm up again to duplicate your previous settings. Or increase the motor speed and monitor the inflights and decrease vibrator speed as the motor warms up.
So here you go. For RL15 at 25 grains, my 20 drop average time, according to Excel, was 4.79 seconds with one overthrow among 20 and these settings:
Bulk profile
Speed 100%
Ramp 500ms
Motor 1200 mA
Inflight 5.5 (set) 5.4 (measured - it varies drop to drop; that was the last one on the screen when I recorded the settings)
Setpoint offset 0.8gr
Stable time 325ms
Fine Profile:
High 100%
Ramp down 0.10 grains
Stable time 300ms
Low 70%
Inflight 0.36 set 0.45 measured on the last throw
Pulse profile:
Speed 65%
On 145 ms
Off 225ms
Cautious time 400ms

For RL15 at 45 grains (308 caliber size) 7.05 second average across 20 drops with no overages (I could probably make it faster)
Bulk profile

Speed 100%
Ramp 500ms
Motor 1200 mA
Inflight 5.9 (set) same as measured
Setpoint offset 0.8gr
Stable time 325ms
Fine Profile:
High 100%
Ramp down 0.10 grains
Stable time 300ms
Low 40%
Inflight 0.30 (same as measured)
Pulse profile:
Speed 60%
On 140 ms
Off 225ms
Cautious time 500ms

For RL50 at 236 grains: (I didn't put it in Excel but it was averaging about 14 seconds I estimate)

Bulk Profile:

Speed 100%
Ramp up 500ms
motor 1200mA
Inflight 7.6/7.6
Setpoint offset 1.5gr
Stable time 325ms
Fine profile:
High 90%
Ramp down 0.35gr
Stable time 325
Low Speed 20%
Inflight 0.10 grains set/measured
Pulse profile:
Speed 60%
On time 100ms
off time 250 ms
cautious time 500ms

Accurate 2015 at 24.5 grains; average over 20 throws (2 overthrows) was 4.785 seconds
Bulk profile:
speed 100%
ramp 500 ms
current 1200
inflight 4.93
setpoint offset 0.75gr
stable time 325 ms

Fine profile
high 100%
ramp 0.3gr
stable time 350 ms
Low speed 1%
inflight .25 yellow .27 grey

pulse profile
speed 75%
pulse on 150 ms
pulse off 225 ms
cautious time 600 ms

VARGET 25 grains; 20 drops no failures average time 5.8 seconds
It also seems to work for 44 grains with average ~7seconds and 5% failure rate.

Bulk:

100% motor
500 ms
1200 mA
Inflight 6.5/6.7
setpont offset 0.8 grains
stable time 350 ms

Fine:
High/Low speed 100/59%
Ramp down 0.30 gr/Inflight 0.35/0.35gr
Stable time 384ms

Pulse:
Speed 70%
Pulse on 130/ Pulse off 300ms
cautious time 700ms

RETUMBO - 8.2 seconds 90% success rate over 40 throws, 92.5 grains (for 338LM), a very difficult powder to dispense. Took hours to achieve this. Consider it an extreme limit of the possible. And make sure your vibratory settings are spot on before you apply these settings. Indeed, if these settings don't work, FIRST check your vibrator settings.) For a powder like this, you're going to sacrifice a TON of speed for >90% success rate, and I don't think it's worth it, you will be faster with 8 second throws and 1/10 discards. Interestingly, I redid these settings pretty much from scratch 2 weeks later and wound up with almost identical settings. A couple of tweaks allowed me to shave off 2 full seconds.

BULK
6.5 yellow inflight
Offset 1.1gr
Stable time 350ms
ramp 500ms

FINE
High 90%
Low 40%
Ramp 0.30gr
Inflights ..38
Stable time 400

PULSE
High 100%
Nominal 50%
Time ON 125ms
Time OFF 250 ms
Cautious time 800ms

AR-Comp 41 grains 7.5 seconds average 94% success over 50 throws (about the same time and success rate for 22 grains; I did adjust down the bulk and fine inflight times as they were lower with the reduced cycle time).
Bulk
100%
inflight 5.5
ramp 500ms
offset 1.0gr
current 1200
stable time 300

Fine
High 100%
Low 95%
Ramp down .3
Inflight .5
stable time 350ms

Pulse
High 100%
Nominal 90%
Pulse on 130
PUlse off 250
Cautious time 600ms

CFE223 50 drops 98% accuracy (+/- 0.02gr) 25 grain charge

Bulk

Speed 100%
Inflight 5.0 gr
Ramp 500ms
Offset 1.5 gr
Current 1200
Stable time 300ms

Fine
High 100%
Low 75%
Ramp down .55 gr
Inflight .35 (varies; 0.4-.45 may be a better setting)
Stable time 325ms

Pulse
Hi limit 100%
Nominal 75%
Pulse on 110ms
Pulse off 250 ms
Cautious time off 500 ms (could probably go lower)

Hope this helps! Please list your observations and settings in this thread to help others!

Accessories WTS: divorce sale. Geissele rails, ARC Xylo chassis, MDT ESS Chassis, PVA prefits, PWS M116 MOD1 upper

Divorce Sale
I got the go ahead from my lawyer that I can offload some of my firearm's stuff prior to finalizing my divorce. Here is a list of all that I have for sale. If I can bring myself to list more, I will either update this post or make a new one. For some of the lower cost items, willing to ship but prefer to deal locally (Kansas City) because shipping can be a pain. If my prices are out of line, shoot me an offer. Prices include shipping. I am not looking to trade. These items are listed on 2 other forums. USPS mo or cash is preferred method of payment but will take other payments if more convenient.


All rails are new, not blems. $250 shipped for each rail NIB
Mk16 13.5” sold
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new geissele 13." CHF barrel 5.56mm $250 shipped NIB
Lrue tactical LT209 hanguard 12" $275 sold
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MDT ESS chassis system, $900 SOLD

Patriot Valley Arms ARC nucleus prefit barrels specs based off build sheet when I ordered. brand new unmounted prefit barrels
6mm Creedmoor, Osprey barrel works brand, Action: American rifle company Nucleus or Archimedes 22" (i thnk) 58/24 threading, marksman contour $620 shipped
6mmBR, Action: Action: American rifle company Nucleus or Archimedes, 24" (i think) 1:7 twist,, 5/8-24 threading, medium Palma contour $620 shipped
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American Rifle Company Xylo Chassis. REM 700, Short action, right hand. NIB $900 SPF

Primary weapons system M116 MOD1 upper keymod rail 16" barrel. USED $700 shipped
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Firearms WTS 243 AR10

WTS: .243 AR10

20” BSF carbon fiber barrel 1:10T
5/8-24 suppressor ready
MDT Arca
Aftermarket Trigger (can’t remember what I put in it, will update when I pull it out.
Kynshot heavy buffer from specilaized dynamics
Superlative arms Adjustable gas block
BA upper and lower
Arken EPL 4-16
Rubber City Armory.308 Winchester Match Grade Bolt
Ergo vertical grip
Attached are shot groups from 70 grain Sierra blitzking factory ammo. Groups super well with it never loaded for it because of it.
Gong is a 250 yard 3 shot group

November 22, 2024 Target is 100 yard 5 shot group (the last shot I pulled) can get more photos and FaceTime if needed to be

2400$ FFL to FFL shipped. I have numerous Facebook vouches and I have bought stuff on here as well. Can meet face to face in Nebraska


PP G&S, Venmo, Check (ships when bank clears check) cash

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Rifle Scopes Athlon Ares ETR Gen2 vs DNT The One

Haven't been on here in a while but in the market to toss a scope on a Kidd build I'm wrapping up. Spent the last 4 or 5 hours having some very informative and entertaining reads.

Was planning on grabbing the DNT, but while checking deals on some Athlon offerings, noticed they have an Athlon Ares ETR Gen2.

I couldn't find anyone reviewing the Ares Gen2 so I did email Cameraland to ask for their opinion on if the Ares was worth it over the DNT.

Figure if anyplace would have experience with it, would be here.

Accessories Hawkins Precision 36mm Heavy Tactical Rings 1.0"

Like new - excellent condition. There is one small scratch on one of the ring caps - I bought these second hand from someone who claimed they were BNIB never mounted. I have only mounted my optic in the rings, never fielded.

I will only trade for Hawkins 36mm Heavy Tactical Rings in 1.15" height in similar condition

$175 shipped Zelle - Venmo - PP FF

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Savage AICS DBM choices?

Building a new stock for my old Savage 308. Right now it sits in a Boyds Pro Varmint I bedded it into 10 year ago, which while serviceable, is a bit short for LOP and I just dont care for how it tracks under recoil. I pulled some really heavily figured cherry and some curly maple off the shelf and glued up a nice blank. My original game plan was to just reuse the stock Savage DBM and factory mags, mostly because they are old school blued steel, and I kind wanted to keep this rifle looking old school other than the SSTL Criterion barrel it currently has. Also plan on adding in some LRI pillars (will require a bit of modification to work with a Savage) and the LRI cheek riser. However, after looking at how the factory profile of the inlet, I decided I want to increase the thickness of the inlet under the front action screw as wood stocks are prone to cracking in front of the magwell. I also plan on a crossbolt in the front and rear of the magwell to help with that.

So other than the Savage factory part and Atlasworx, does anyone know of anything else? Im looking at the profile of the Savage and it looks really wide in comparison the Atlasworx which I think will cause issues with inletting as I dont want that wider and rounder profile of it.