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What does 6.5 do over 7.62?

#353
Soulezoo said:
Apparently 6.5 owners get more butt sex. That's what I keep seeing on this forum anyway.

6GT owners really get it though. That's what AKMike told me.
Click to expand...
Clarification: you meant to say 6.5 and 6gt owners are more often on the receiving end of butt sex.

308 owners actually fuck more hot chick’s asses, the latter who also invariably spectacularly orgasm as well.
 
#354
Umm.


41O6OCeqbWL.jpg
 
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#355
carbonbased said:
Clarification: you meant to say 6.5 and 6gt owners are more often on the receiving end of butt sex.

308 owners actually fuck more hot chick’s asses, the latter who also invariably spectacularly orgasm as well.
Click to expand...
I guess I wouldn't know either way. My FAL sure as hell didn't get me laid. Either way.
 
#359
carbonbased said:
I thought that too until I starting woodworking. For small linear measurements, imperial rocks. I can’t really comment on the other types of measurements (longer distances, weight, volume, etc).

Some examples…

Problems with metric occur when you make stuff with your hands vs. a CNC (or constantly using a calculator):
  1. Metric does not readily break down into whole number fractions.
  2. Example: metric (base 10) only breaks down to 1/5 and 1/2

Imperial (base 12) breaks down much more intuitively. From a foot, or 12”:
  1. Half = 6”
  2. Thirds = 4”
  3. Quarters = 3”
  4. 1/6 = 2”
Once, I was determined to break free of the cursed imperial regime of measurement and bought high quality metric Shinwa rulers from Japan (with 1/2mm gradations!). “Ha!” I sniggered, “no more damn fractions for me!”

And then I was soon depressed when I wanted to divide a meter into threes. 33.333333333333∞ cms. FFS.

I became chained to a calculator and actually laying things out became a chore, even with a 1/2mm ruler (see 33.333∞ above).

The multi-resolution imperial foot is so, so, so much easier to deal with in actual construction of things made by hand. Woodworker rulers that contain three or four different resolutions on the same ruler are awesome and allow quick measurements.

Need rough measurements? 1/8”
A little finer? Use the 1/16” edge of the ruler
Finer still? 1/32”
And one can go to 1/64” if you want.

Starret 4r ruler below (1/8, 1/16, 1/32, & 1/64 all on a different side)
View attachment 8316201

With metric, you have the ultra, ultra, ultra coarse cm…nobody cuts wood “roughly to the cm” when making a table like one does with 1/8” imperial measurements.

Or, you have the pretty darn finely-spaced mm, which is roughly equivalent to 1/32”. Yes, you can count your mm’s for 1/16ish coarseness but it’s a pain in the ass and fraught with error (for me).

And a LOT of 1/16”-spaced sort of measurements are used in woodworking (regardless of metric or imperial) because of how wood fits together and how your fingers feel differences in length.

And then there’s the way the actual gradations are etched out in the ruler. On the rulers I have, the imperial’s multi-length hashes are way, way, way easier to discern. See below of the mm and 1/2mm gradations on my Shinwas. My eyes blur at the latter.

View attachment 8316195


In researching this post I ran across Starret’s mm rulers, which the American manufacturer significantly improved over what I’ve seen in Japan/Euro rulers. Their 1/2mm hashes are more like good FFP scope stadia…way easier to read (but still crappier than imperial):
View attachment 8316196
Click to expand...
HaHaHa!! I was shit posting with my friend @sirhrmechanic who was awake in the middle of the night with me. I was poking his 9mm vs 45 acp post. Of course the 45 acp wins over the 9mm and hence my post. The Bear Pit for the win yet again.
 
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#360

What does 6.5 do over 7.62?​


Not enough unless you want a light weight hunter or a man bun race gun.

If you want to reach out an touch something and aren't in the poors or pussy club.

Shoot a magnum. :cool:
 
#362
carbonbased said:
Fascinating. Thank you for bringing this to my attention!

Do those come in 2ft to 35ft sizes? I’ve got a wood box and a house to build. And how do they handle being dropped? No doubt solar-powered too, and they’ll work fine in cold weather.

I use mine all of the time, but c’mon man.
Click to expand...
Yes. Readily available to 80”. Beyond that you’re gonna wait a while. But there is BIG shit out there that needs be measured.
 
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#363
Tokay444 said:
Yes. Readily available to 80”. Beyond that you’re gonna wait a while. But there is BIG shit out there that needs be measured.
Click to expand...
80”? Ok, I like your posts in general, but talk about impractical for a woodworker. Two to three foot rulers are impractical too, so I don’t use them much. They mostly come out for drawing straight lines. Tape measures are where it’s at for woodworking and a lot of carpentry. Rugged, accurate enough (use the same one for all measurements), and cheap.

Although those carpentry laser measurement devices look pretty cool…

And dropping an 80” caliper sounds…expensive, and expensive to buy the first time too.

One of the more foolproof ways of working with wood is almost no measurement at all, like in the links I posted. Barring divider use (I have barely used them), it’s good to just measure and cut, say, a table leg and then use that leg to mark out the next three vs four separate measurements. Like with a miter saw stop.

Maybe some people get what I’m saying…the argument is more about measurement systems that facilitate the ease of initial design of something made of wood, not measuring after production, following someone else’s design to the 0.0001”, or milling aerospace parts.

But really, it all works, just like MOA and MRADS. I happen to find one easier to use in woodworking.
 
#368
carbonbased said:
80”? Ok, I like your posts in general, but talk about impractical for a woodworker. Two to three foot rulers are impractical too, so I don’t use them much. They mostly come out for drawing straight lines. Tape measures are where it’s at for woodworking and a lot of carpentry. Rugged, accurate enough (use the same one for all measurements), and cheap.

Although those carpentry laser measurement devices look pretty cool…

And dropping an 80” caliper sounds…expensive, and expensive to buy the first time too.

One of the more foolproof ways of working with wood is almost no measurement at all, like in the links I posted. Barring divider use (I have barely used them), it’s good to just measure and cut, say, a table leg and then use that leg to mark out the next three vs four separate measurements. Like with a miter saw stop.

Maybe some people get what I’m saying…the argument is more about measurement systems that facilitate the ease of initial design of something made of wood, not measuring after production, following someone else’s design to the 0.0001”, or milling aerospace parts.

But really, it all works, just like MOA and MRADS. I happen to find one easier to use in woodworking.
Click to expand...
Stick with a 6" and 12". Makes converting down to 1 button. Mine are mitutoyo coolant proof and I've had them since mid 00's. Never lose their zero. Use whatever tape measure you like for longer. I use my 6" almost every time I go in the garage. Drill bits, identifying screws, pilot holes for screws. Lots of things.
2569.jpg

614CTO1gkUL.jpg


Also have one of these. Helped me figure out a missing dimension when I was trying to add my house into Autocad. Cheaper than new 12's above. Lowes price
SmartSelect_20240106_214209_Lowe's.jpg
 
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#369
308pirate said:
How in the hell did this land in the pit?

Are we nearing legendary thread status? @LeftyJason
Click to expand...
It was going off the rocker anyway. Was getting way outside of technical thread bounds. DbD was def going off the rails.

Anyone is welcome to add it. If I added it I would add it to my old post in there about mil vs moa threads.

At times OP seems like he is knowingly trolling.
 
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#370
carbonbased said:
Fascinating. Thank you for bringing this to my attention!

Do those come in 2ft to 35ft sizes? I’ve got a wood box and a house to build. And how do they handle being dropped? No doubt solar-powered too, and they’ll work fine in cold weather.

I use mine all of the time, but c’mon man.
Click to expand...
Well, obviously you aren't trying to measure your tiny pecker.

But, allow yourself the time it takes to contemplate the topic of this thread.
Go ahead, take your time.

Please inform us all how a ruler or tape measure can even be remotely handy in measuring something of either 6.5mm or .308 ?

I'll wait.
 
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#372
carbonbased said:
One of the more foolproof ways of working with wood is almost no measurement at all, like in the links I posted. Barring divider use (I have barely used them), it’s good to just measure and cut, say, a table leg and then use that leg to mark out the next three vs four separate measurements. Like with a miter saw stop.

Maybe some people get what I’m saying…the argument is more about measurement systems that facilitate the ease of initial design of something made of wood, not measuring after production, following someone else’s design to the 0.0001”, or milling aerospace parts.
Click to expand...


What I just started to do was say 27 7/8 'short/long.'

So many other things go into each cut. Thickness of the blade and the wobble of your blade - is the line [you] drew precisely where the dictated distance is supposed to be (ie is it a solid reference pt) - did you keep the wood square during entire cut - was the wood itself square to begin with - and is the metal bar you are using as a guide really at 90deg from the actual blade?

Then what's even more fun I learned is there's always like a 1/32?? you need to add for each wood-wood interface or your overall length will be off which will lead to... crap - especially when your try to use different woods too. Even if you make the perfectly square dovetailed et al piece of wood - it can warp if you don't join the pieces within a short timeframe (say week but it all depends).

This is all from a decade ago so don't quote me on the exact numbers but the idea is hey, we gotta make some cuts and turn out some product. So ya there are tricks to every trade

*I didn't even talk about how you read the line on your tape measure or if you use a ruler how you know the"0" (starting point) is a true 0 for the ruler (I use 1" as my 0 start because of the variability, you have to subtract 1 from everything which gets annoying but everything is more consistent).
 
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#373
n2ishun said:
Well, obviously you aren't trying to measure your tiny pecker.

But, allow yourself the time it takes to contemplate the topic of this thread.
Go ahead, take your time.

Please inform us all how a ruler or tape measure can even be remotely handy in measuring something of either 6.5mm or .308 ?

I'll wait.
Click to expand...
well a 10mm ruler could show you that the "308" is larger than the 6.5mm
 
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#375
n2ishun said:
Well, obviously you aren't trying to measure your tiny pecker.

But, allow yourself the time it takes to contemplate the topic of this thread.
Go ahead, take your time.

Please inform us all how a ruler or tape measure can even be remotely handy in measuring something of either 6.5mm or .308 ?

I'll wait.
Click to expand...
@n2ishun ! That’s not how you speak to your mother! Fetch me the soap for your filthy whore mouth!

Pardon, I was attempting to talk about how imperial measurements, specifically with a ruler or tape measure, are handier than metric in the context of woodworking and probably carpentry (not a carpenter). Especially during designing. Hand tools. No CNC.

Not measuring anything else. I’ll amend the first post to effing drive that point home.
 
Last edited:
#377
TheOtherAndrew said:
What I just started to do was say 27 7/8 'short/long.'

So many other things go into each cut. Thickness of the blade and the wobble of your blade - is the line [you] drew precisely where the dictated distance is supposed to be (ie is it a solid reference pt) - did you keep the wood square during entire cut - was the wood itself square to begin with - and is the metal bar you are using as a guide really at 90deg from the actual blade?

Then what's even more fun I learned is there's always like a 1/32?? you need to add for each wood-wood interface or your overall length will be off which will lead to... crap - especially when your try to use different woods too. Even if you make the perfectly square dovetailed et al piece of wood - it can warp if you don't join the pieces within a short timeframe (say week but it all depends).

This is all from a decade ago so don't quote me on the exact numbers but the idea is hey, we gotta make some cuts and turn out some product. So ya there are tricks to every trade

*I didn't even talk about how you read the line on your tape measure or if you use a ruler how you know the"0" (starting point) is a true 0 for the ruler (I use 1" as my 0 start because of the variability, you have to subtract 1 from everything which gets annoying but everything is more consistent).
Click to expand...
This is all true. I use/know most of those very tricks/tips.

But what I always find fascinating is that the ancients created intricate furniture and huge buildings/structures apparently without anything approaching modern measurement devices. I’m sure you guys know all how they did that, but I have scarcely looked into it (beyond glancing at By hand and By Eye, linked above).
 
#378
TheOtherAndrew said:
Well way to make me look like a raving lunatic talking about how to use a tape measureView attachment 8316484
Click to expand...
Dude, each time I refresh this page I see a new revision of your post. I think I’ve seen at least 4 complete revisions. 😂

- Guy falling on bike rack
- a metric joke
- another metric joke plus guy falling in bike rack
- a kind of penis tape measure joke

I do understand the writing/revision process so I get it.
 
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#379
carbonbased said:
This is all true. I use/know most of those very tricks/tips.

But what I always find fascinating is that the ancients created intricate furniture and huge buildings/structures apparently without anything approaching modern measurement devices. I’m sure you guys know all how they did that, but I have scarcely looked into it (beyond glancing at By hand and By Eye, linked above).
Click to expand...
You are correct, ancients didn’t use metric or imperial.

They used the skosh!

When marksmanship and manufacturing advances to a high enough level then scopes will be made in Skosh.
 
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#380
carbonbased said:
@n2ishun ! That’s not how you speak to your mother! Fetch me the soap for your filthy whore mouth!

Pardon, I was attempting to talk about how imperial measurements, specifically with a ruler or tape measure, are handier than metric in the context of woodworking and probably carpentry (not a carpenter). Especially during designing. Hand tools. No CNC.

Not measuring anything else. I’ll amend the first post to effing drive that point home.
Click to expand...
Thanks Mom.
 
#390
Not one of you have suggested he get any of the many now available actions that have end user changeable barrels and a barrel in each and enjoy the adventure.

Slippin into oblivion!

Mile High still has AT-X's in both 6.5 and 6 Creedmoor and .308 barrels. Get a 5.5Nm FixIt Stick with a 4mm hex and never look back.

Pigs rolling around in the mud.

Thank you to whoever moved this drivel to the Pit where it belonged.

Get a Tubb ATR and do that 2 mile shit too.
 
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#393
I am 48 about to turn 49 I have been deer hunting since I was about 15ish my personal experience deer hunting I've used a 223, 7.62x39, 30-30, 270, 308, 6.5CM, 30-06 and a 300WM I have never had to go looking for a deer with the 300WM every deer I have shot with the 300WM has pretty much dropped where they stood. My longest shot on a deer was this year on a doe at 395 yds with the 300WM I dialed 6 MOA and she dropped where she stood. I'm not trying to toot my own horn just putting out my personal experience.
 
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#394
In Threads like this many never seem to understand its not what you hit them with, its where you hit them at. Plus you have a huge segment, that thinks its as simple as buying in. The Industry knows this & banks on it literately, one of the reasons flavor of the week keeps the R&D teams up late. Then comes those who just like to start shit, self included.:p
 
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#395
I knew people forty years ago in the Texas Hill Country that claimed to hunt dear with an old coffee can of feed corn and a large ball peen. Never did see it happen though.
 
#396
anon said:
I knew people forty years ago in the Texas Hill Country that claimed to hunt dear with an old coffee can of feed corn and a large ball peen. Never did see it happen though.
Click to expand...
Went Quail hunting with a guy in Fla, long ago that never used a gun and always limited out. He had one of the best dogs I've ever seen & used a cast net, yes a cast net. Most always he would get the whole covey at once, when they were setting tight. Damnest thing I've ever seen, had I not seen it I'd never have believed it.
 
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