New reloader - list of components

jaguar0405

Private
Minuteman
Oct 24, 2024
22
9
California
Hello all! I am looking to set up a reloading room. I have read doc76251's fantastic guide in its entirety twice, as well as researching other specific items and looking at other guides. I have worked up a list of items that I plan on purchasing based on overall reputation, reviews, and availability. I am seeking feedback to see if I am missing anything or making any mistakes. I plan to reload 6.5 Creedmoor using Hornady ELD-M and, occasionally, ELD-X for hunting.

I have built up the following list, from Midsouth Shooters Supply, MidwayUSA, Brownells, and Little Crow Gun Gunworks; I am open to other vendors, but had not yet found a compelling reason to diversify (although that may change when purchasing consumables, e.g. bullets, powder, primers).

Thank you for your advice!

CategoryItemSourceCost
PressRCBS Rock Chucker SupremeMidsouth235
DiesRedding Master Hunter 3-piece (Full length sizing, neck sizing, micrometer competition seating) in 6.5CMMidsouth236
VLD Seating stemRedding Competition Seating stem for VLD in 6.5CMMidway30
Case cleaningFrankford Quick-N-EZ Case tumbler kit (tumbler, separator, accessories)Brownells95
Case trimmerWorlds Finest Trimmer, in 6.5CMLittle Crow73
Case prepVLD inside chamfer tool, outside chamfer tool, small and large primer pocket reamers and cleanersLittle Crow32
Hand tool for case prepLittle Crow39
Priming toolFrankford Platinum Perfect Seat Hand Priming toolMidway68
Shell holderHornady #1 or
RCBS 308 Win
Midway
Midway
5
9
PowderFrankford powder tricklerBrownells21
ScaleRCBS M500 balance scaleMidway93
Check weightsLyman Shooters Check Weight setMidsouth35
FunnelFrankford Aluminum Powder funnel kitBrownells23
Case lubeHornady One-Shot case lube spray, 10ozMidsouth16
TrayLyman Custom Fit Loading Block .485Midsouth6
 
Forster press and Giraud case trimmer. Would also say to get the Forster FL and seating dies.
I did email with Doug Giraud (props to him for clear and quick communication) and he made clear that the Tri-Way does not cut to the required tolerances needed for precision loading; the powered version is now $575, compared to less than $150 for the WFT and accessories. I do not think I will be needing to process enough brass to require the Giraud Power Trimmer.

Regarding the Forster components: The Rock Chucker seemed like the gold standard for introductory, non-turret presses in my research, but I did see a lot of praise for the Forster Co-ax. Is the Forster significantly more precise? For the dies, I saw a LOT more love for Redding than Forster; can you please explain why you prefer them?
 
Don't use One Shot case lube.

It's ridiculously expensive and if you don't absolutely hose your cases down with it you'll end up with a case stuck in your sizing die.

If you want a spray on case lube then fork over the money for the Dillon lanolin & alcohol spray lube... Or for roughly the cost of one can of One Shot you can make a 5 year supply of your own lanolin and alcohol case lube. The recipe for it is probably in the archives of this site... or elsewhere on the internet.

The Lyman check weight set is not worth the money. I know because I bought it when I started. Save that $35 and apply it to something else. (More on that in a minute)

And as mentioned...

You'll need at least one reloading manual... You mentioned ELDM and ELDX bullets. Do you plan to use Hornady brass as well? If so, the latest Hornady manual would be a good start. A lot of folks don't like Hornady for various reasons... But for a beginner, loading their bullets in their brass with their load data isn't a bad way to get started.

Most of the other equipment you listed is fine.

When anyone asks me about getting into reloading and what to buy, I advise them to buy whatever press and dies they desire... some are fancier/have more features... But they all smash brass and seat bullets.

I tell people to spend as much as they can afford on a good scale. Lab quality digital if they can afford it. After a few hours trickling powder onto a balance scale you'll understand... The goal is to make ammo to shoot. Spend more time shooting ammo rather than making it. Powder measuring is time consuming.

The other item to pay good money for is a set of Mitutoyo 6 inch digital calipers. Cheap? No. But not outrageous either. They are buy once, cry once. And if taken care of will last forever.

Seriously, a good set of quality digital calipers and the best scale/dispenser (or combo) you can afford is where your investment will yield the best return. Not sure you're ready for the A&D fx-120i scale with v4 auto trickler... But maybe go for something a bit nicer than the balance scale. You can make some damn accurate ammo with a balance... You just won't be making a lot of it very quickly.

Mike
 
Don't use One Shot case lube.

It's ridiculously expensive and if you don't absolutely hose your cases down with it you'll end up with a case stuck in your sizing die.

If you want a spray on case lube then fork over the money for the Dillon lanolin & alcohol spray lube... Or for roughly the cost of one can of One Shot you can make a 5 year supply of your own lanolin and alcohol case lube. The recipe for it is probably in the archives of this site... or elsewhere on the internet.
Very good info, will find the recipe and make my own!

The Lyman check weight set is not worth the money. I know because I bought it when I started. Save that $35 and apply it to something else. (More on that in a minute)
Again, good to know; I expected that the Lyman set would be better consistency than the no-name brands on Amazon. Do you not use check weights at all?

And as mentioned...

You'll need at least one reloading manual... You mentioned ELDM and ELDX bullets. Do you plan to use Hornady brass as well? If so, the latest Hornady manual would be a good start. A lot of folks don't like Hornady for various reasons... But for a beginner, loading their bullets in their brass with their load data isn't a bad way to get started.
I have an older version of the Lyman reloading manual (the 49th edition) as well as Hornady's load data. I am currently stockpiling my factory brass, sorted separately for each rifle.

Most of the other equipment you listed is fine.

When anyone asks me about getting into reloading and what to buy, I advise them to buy whatever press and dies they desire... some are fancier/have more features... But they all smash brass and seat bullets.

I tell people to spend as much as they can afford on a good scale. Lab quality digital if they can afford it. After a few hours trickling powder onto a balance scale you'll understand... The goal is to make ammo to shoot. Spend more time shooting ammo rather than making it. Powder measuring is time consuming.
How much faster is a digital scale than a balance scale when measuring powder? Would the Ohaus Scout SJX323N/E be a good intermediate electronic scale?

The other item to pay good money for is a set of Mitutoyo 6 inch digital calipers. Cheap? No. But not outrageous either. They are buy once, cry once. And if taken care of will last forever.

Seriously, a good set of quality digital calipers and the best scale/dispenser (or combo) you can afford is where your investment will yield the best return. Not sure you're ready for the A&D fx-120i scale with v4 auto trickler... But maybe go for something a bit nicer than the balance scale. You can make some damn accurate ammo with a balance... You just won't be making a lot of it very quickly.

Mike
I forgot about the calipers; wasn't sure how necessary they are when using a micrometer seating die. But I will add it to my list.

Thank you so much for the detailed response!
 
Re: scales… digital is much, much faster than a balance scale.

I rarely need to be accurate to more than +/- 1/10th of a grain for the majority of my reloading. Mostly .45 ACP, .308, 6.8, 450 BM and a ton of 300BLK. I only get anal on my 280 AI and 300 WSM loads, but then I’m usually measuring everything twice anyway.

We use a buddy’s multi-stage Dillon press when doing bulk reloading, but for my usual stuff, I have a couple of Hornady’s quick throw “auto charger” with several metering inserts already set up for my most common loads, and separate dispensers for my most often-used powders too.



After verifying the first couple charges, I just go to town and usually only check when I swap trays or need to refill the canister. Speaking of canisters to hold powder, check out dram worx. Their pyrex tubes are pretty sweet.


There are better, and faster setups out there, but the basic Hornady stuff work well for 90% of my needs.
 
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Lots of good advice here.

I used to have all kinds of fancy gear for reloading and shooting matches. I sold almost all of it when I gave that game up.

These days I keep it pretty simple. I use a Forster press, Forster dies, a 505 scale, Mitutoyo calipers and an RCBS manual trickler. It’s not a fast process by any means, but I’m just reloading for accurate hunting loads, and I enjoy doing it.

I did initially start with the RCBS Rock Chucker kit, but sold most of it to upgrade.
 
This is true, but I really like the way it smells for some reason, so I still use it when doing small batches.

It’s why I still use Hoppe’s #9 to clean guns too! LoL
No this is bad advice. I have used lanolin/alch and one shot for years and the one shot is superior. It's quicker, less mess , doesn't gum up dies and I have yet to have a stuck case.

In fact stuck cases are usually more of a die issue than the type of lube. Even the shittiest lube will work but a rough die it doesn't matter what lube you use.

If you like the smell of one shot you might be missing a chromosomes. The fuq......
 
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For sizing lube I’ve used imperial sizing wax for years. Recently, in the last year, I’ve switched to Alpha munitions lube in the spray bottle. I just put a few hundred in a gallon ziplock bag, 3 or so sprays of lube and roll the bag around for 20-30 seconds. Zero issues in the past 1,500 rounds.
 
I used the Lanolin/Alch mix for years. It works it just takes more time and space to offgas. I did have some issues with gumming of dies and inconsistent sizing so after talking to some guys switched back to One shot. Since then no issues at all. I throw about 150-200 cases in a gallon zip lock, Spray, shake , spray shake, spray shake. Open bag and let it gas off for about 5 minutes. Dont need to wear gloves, no gummy residue and sizing seems to be a bit more consistent (which I do on a Dillion 750).

I may have to try the Alpha lube. Any idea what it is?
 
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I used the Lanolin/Alch mix for years. It works it just takes more time and space to offgas. I did have some issues with gumming of dies and inconsistent sizing so after talking to some guys switched back to One shot. Since then no issues at all. I throw about 150-200 cases in a gallon zip lock, Spray, shake , spray shake, spray shake. Open bag and let it gas off for about 5 minutes. Dont need to wear gloves, no gummy residue and sizing seems to be a bit more consistent (which I do on a Dillion 750).

I may have to try the Alpha lube. Any idea what it is?
No idea, it’s whatever they use for their resizing operations in house from my knowledge. I don’t believe it’s lanolin (never used the lanolin mix) and it smells good. Also doesn’t need to off gas
 
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@jaguar0405

I guess we should ask... How much ammo are you going to load?

How quickly and how precise do you want to make ammo for your 6.5?

If you're going to load up 50 rounds a month then the manual equipment will work. It will be slower but has a lower cost of entry.

If you're wanting to load 100+ rounds twice a month... Look into getting something faster.

The disclaimer to the advice above is that most folks start out loading a little bit of ammo... But eventually progress to loading more than one caliber... And often will move to loading larger volumes of multiple calibers. Only you can make that call.

And as 91Eunozs suggested... One of the manual powder throws can help speed up the process if using a balance scale... Once you have it set to throw a specific charge then it will keep throwing relatively accurate charges that don't need to be checked for weight every time.

Mike
 
If you are going to reload with crappy hornady components save the money, buy norma factory ammo for $22-25 a box. Sell the brass and you will come out ahead with better ammo, spending less money and not wasting a bunch of time.

Reloading is a waste unless you shoot alot (more than 2-300 rounds a month), you need more accurate ammo than factory or your time is completely worthless.
 
If you are going to reload with crappy hornady components save the money, buy norma factory ammo for $22-25 a box. Sell the brass and you will come out ahead with better ammo, spending less money and not wasting a bunch of time.

Reloading is a waste unless you shoot alot (more than 2-300 rounds a month), you need more accurate ammo than factory or your time is completely worthless.
Ah yes the standard DouchebeforeDiscount reply... Never anything constructive or helpful. Just critical, condescending, and argumentative.

Are you ever NOT an insufferable prick?

The dude is just starting out... May or may not stick with it. But go ahead and tell him he has to go $5k in the hole to get started.

It's no wonder you get banned every other month.

Mike
 
Ah yes the standard DouchebeforeDiscount reply... Never anything constructive or helpful. Just critical, condescending, and argumentative.

Are you ever NOT an insufferable prick?

The dude is just starting out... May or may not stick with it. But go ahead and tell him he has to go $5k in the hole to get started.

It's no wonder you get banned every other month.

Mike
Sorry your feelings got hurt over someone's opinion. You seem a little too emotionally invested.