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Night Vision Halo N-VIsion Optics

#204
@Mindreader1, we took a close look at this connector but it's hard to say if it will work or not without testing a sample. Hirose does not provide internal connector details in their documentation. While HR10 and HR30 series look very similar (except for connector material) only the test can provide the definitive answer. My only concern, even if connectors will match mechanically, is that the plastic part may wear faster if the mating part is metal but it should not be too bad for this type of connectors.

Mindreader1 said:
Would this one work? Just need the male end to be connected to a usb?

DRRI Hirose 6 Pin Female(HR10A-7P-6S) High Flex Cable for Basler GIGE AVT CCD Camera (Right Angle Cable) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076Q7975B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wzwLCbFPWBPK3
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#206
Mindreader1 said:
@Max_R finally found a rechargeable one that works!! CR123A Rechargeable Lithium Batteries - Enegitech RCR123A Li-ion Battery 3.7V 750mAh 4 Pack for Arlo Camera(VMC3030/VMK3200/VMS3330/3430/3530) Flashlight Security System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GDKZF29/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sCwNCbEM88QRN
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Thanks for doing the homework, I will grab me some. Question, I was reading the on-line manual for my Halo LR and it said to remove the batteries when not in use. How close should I follow this, is there something about thermals that require the batteries be removed or is this just precautionary? I’m guessing it’s overkill to remove them when not in use but I want to be safe. Thanks
 
#207
(almost) all manuals for electronic (and electric) devices say to remove the batteries when not in use ... if I am using the items daily or several times per week, I leave them in. If I am not using it for weeks or longer I take them out. I've heard tales of crap getting ruined and I've had some lower cost items ruined myself ... and you don't want to wreck a thermal or a NV device by leaving the batts in for weeks/months without use ... I assure you :)
 
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#208
@TKO, every once in a while a unit comes back to us for repair with a battery compartment completely ruined due to battery leakage and this is a bad repair because most of the time the entire unit (night vision or thermal) has to be completely rebuilt. Batteries may leak for various internal or external reasons. Statistically, it's not very probable, unless, for example, you have salt water in your battery compartment or battery puncture but why take chances?

TKO said:
... Question, I was reading the on-line manual for my Halo LR and it said to remove the batteries when not in use. How close should I follow this, is there something about thermals that require the batteries be removed or is this just precautionary? I’m guessing it’s overkill to remove them when not in use but I want to be safe. Thanks
Click to expand...
 
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#209
Max_R said:
@TKO, every once in a while a unit comes back to us for repair with a battery compartment completely ruined due to battery leakage and this is a bad repair because most of the time the entire unit (night vision or thermal) has to be completely rebuilt. Batteries may leak for various internal or external reasons. Statistically, it's not very probable, unless, for example, you have salt water in your battery compartment or battery puncture but why take chances?
Click to expand...

Sounds good, thanks for your input.
 
#210
Here is reticles information for HALO-LR. I hope some of you may find it useful.

7055026
 
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#211
Disregard, I don't think I had the battery cap tight enough. I have tested it several times, no failures, I would attribute it to operator error. Its an amazing unit, the menu is so simple to use, dialed right in at 100 and 200 yards.
 
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#214
Omg is going to be a long weekend tracking for my LR says Tuesday. Shiiiiiiiiittttt I won’t be Abel to think, sleep or do shit but to think about it. I hate there’s not enough videos on YouTube about it I seen everything all ready posted.

If you have one is mandatory to post between today and Tuesday videos and pictures to make my time go by. Please please please.
 
#215
Flip#1 said:
Omg is going to be a long weekend tracking for my LR says Tuesday. Shiiiiiiiiittttt I won’t be Abel to think, sleep or do shit but to think about it. I hate there’s not enough videos on YouTube about it I seen everything all ready posted.

If you have one is mandatory to post between today and Tuesday videos and pictures to make my time go by. Please please please.
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Coming right up:
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#217
jstokes1 said:
These are photos are good example of the unit's ability to produce an image in less than ideal conditions; I took these after it had been raining for 2 days straight.

How’s the glow of the screen at night does it burn your eyes or is it dim with hi end resolution. Some thermals I had use in the past in order to have a nice picture the brightness was so bright it will hurt your eyes not only that but when I am trying to sneak in the fields the thermal was almost just as bright as a flashlight and it would spook animals.
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#221
this are the image of all 3 units starting with the reap-ir 35mm the target is a e-type metal 100 meters away
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#227
Im An idiot. Cap must have been not screwed down all the way. Note to new owners. It takes more force than you think to screw the cap on. When you meet resistance this is likely just the o ring seal. Keep screwing down and you’ll feel it reall bottom out. Here’s some pics of my mid range night rig. I’ve also got a MDR desert tech I’ll go back and forth with.
 

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#228
Does anyone with an external battery know how to tell if the battery is sending power to the unit? I still just have the 4 bars like it’s running on the 123a batteries.

I tested the external supply by removing the batteries. The scope stayed on. I then put them back in and the bars went from 0 to 4. Stayed on the whole time. Amazing. Your scope will not take a shit on you if the cable gets knocked out during recoil or caught on something.

Also I’ve played around with it a good bit and the factory settings seem the best. For whatever reason the first couple screen shots I took were glitchy but it’s since stopped doing that and I can view my pictures perfectly.

Also for new folks the br +- buttons adjust contrast. Not brightness.

I’ve got to say this scope is phenomenal. I’ve upgraded from a pulsar xp50 and while the pulsar is an amazing scope with long battery life and awesome features the HALO LR is another level in terms of image quality. When I first looked through it in my neighborhood I had to look at the lens and make sure it’s a thermal haha. It seriously looks like a day scope in black and white. Props to the guys at NVision.

The only criticisms is have are

1. I wish the menu was on the other side. For a right handed shooter we hold the gun with our left hand and use the menu with our near hand.

2. Make video settings closer to the save and exit section. Video settings is probably the most visited screen.

3. Better quality cap. The one included on the LR will do but it doesn’t scream “I’m a $7500 thermal”

4. Move the mount forward more allowing the scope to get closer back toward your eye. Every thermal except some
Pulsars have this problem from what I’ve seen.

I’m really nitpicking here but just some constructive criticism. This unit is awesome. I can’t wait to zero it and hunt. I’m just praying the zero doesn’t shift in our crazy Texas temp fluctuations like the pulsars did.
 
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#229
generalzip said:
Im An idiot. Cap must have been not screwed down all the way. Note to new owners. It takes more force than you think to screw the cap on. When you meet resistance this is likely just the o ring seal. Keep screwing down and you’ll feel it reall bottom out. Here’s some pics of my mid range night rig. I’ve also got a MDR desert tech I’ll go back and forth with.
Click to expand...
Lol well bro at least you know it was a easy fix. Mine is working fine under 308 recoil.
 
#232
Max_R said:
@generalzip, thanks a lot for your comments! I really appreciate your very constructive criticism. It is the most useful thing looking forward.
Click to expand...

Of course! The scope is fantastic and you guys are going to sell a ton of these. I’m excited to bring it out on some client hunts and show folks. I just feel bad for the guys with Trijicons because resale value is going to drop on them with the release of the HALO haha

Only other things I miss coming from the pulsar is the manual focus, onboard recording, and battery life. I know the recording isn’t really possible really with this core setup however. While the pulsar battery life is amazing, when you open your bag and the battery is dead your hunt is over before it starts. I really like the idea of being able to pop in a fresh set and go. Manual focus is just a really nice feature to have to get that fine detail especially for folks hunting close near feeders. That said, I I’d never miss a shot because of the fixed focus.

A short (2-3inch) right angle cable would be awesome too. I think you’ll see quite a few folks running a setup similar to mine and Todd H with a battery pack on top for extended hunts. Also the pulsar has a “first focal” reticle that scales with electronic zoom. That would be awesome if you guys developed something similar with half mil wind and elevation holds helps with ranging and holdovers
 
#233
Outstanding unit by all accounts! I seriously recommend you guys to consider the addition of a mil or moa reticle though （sfp or ffp), the end user would be hard pressed to take advantage of that amazing picture at extended ranges otherwise.
 
#234
ChiandChong said:
Outstanding unit by all accounts! I seriously recommend you guys to consider the addition of a mil or moa reticle though （sfp or ffp), the end user would be hard pressed to take advantage of that amazing picture at extended ranges otherwise.
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A bunch of the reticle sunbstensions are 18 or 36 inches at 100 yards which translates well to Mil. 5/10.
 
#235
18-inch subtensions at 100 yards. ~5mil or 18 moa subtension marks. I don't know about "translates well" to mil. What's anyone going to do with 5 mil or 18 moa subtensions? Not to mention the 36 moa subtensions. You hold in 5 mil 18 moa increments?

This is an outstanding unit by all accounts, like I said. But the reticle choices here missing a simple mil or moa reticle is an oversight, no doubt about it. They can add one in with a software fix down the road, or not if they don't want to. But it will be hard pressed for the end users to fully take advantage of the image quality at extended ranges until a moa or mil reticle, sfp or ffp, is added in.
 
#236
ChiandChong said:
18-inch subtensions at 100 yards. ~5mil or 18 moa subtension marks. I don't know about "translates well" to mil. What's anyone going to do with 5 mil or 18 moa subtensions? Not to mention the 36 moa subtensions. You hold in 5 mil 18 moa increments?

This is an outstanding unit by all accounts, like I said. But the reticle choices here missing a simple mil or moa reticle is an oversight, no doubt about it. They can add one in with a software fix down the road, or not if they don't want to. But it will be hard pressed for the end users to fully take advantage of the image quality at extended ranges until a moa or mil reticle, sfp or ffp, is added in.
Click to expand...
Totally agree I am looking at 300 meters down range and I can I’d turkeys so easily we need a mil mil reticle for this scope is so clean the image that I want to push the capabilities but the lack of having the reticle there and being a thermal image is hard to gauge the hold over. Like when you do it on a day scope.
 
#237
@generalzip, @ChiandChong, @Flip#1: thanks a lot for your comments. Sorry I could not respond sooner. Your message about a betters reticle is loud and clear. Understood about the desire to have an FFP reticle. If it's possible, I'd like to pick up your brains figuring out the most basic but still useful reticle that we can implement within limited capabilities of the thermal system. Pixel size for HALO-LR corresponds to approximately one MOA. This means that the minimum line thickness is one MOA and there is no way we can do something like a proper MIL Dot reticle. What do you think is the maximum useable subtension for your type of shooting? Can you give me a rough idea of the reticle design that will make HALO-LR better suited for your applications?
 
#238
@Max_R

Just to give you an idea. Most guys night hunting are probably using short barreled 223, 300blk, 6.5 creed, and 308 as common calibers. For this example let’s pick say a 178 grain amax 308 bullet going 2500 FPS a reasonable shorter barrel speed.

Most guys use a 50 or 100 yard zero. Since the resolution is so good let’s pick a 100 yard zero for these purposes. At 200 yards we drop .7 mils. At 300 1.4 mils and at 400 2.5 mils. Most guys are not going to shoot past 400 yards with this ethically at night. Realistically off a tripod 250-300 would be my personal limit before I’d decide to just walk closer. Based on this a shooter really needs to have granularity with 1 mil for it to be useful. Most precision scopes you see have .5 mil holds and some even .2 for long range optics. Given we are lower mag with closer shots I think a 1 mil reticle would be ideal in FFP if it’s able to be pulled off. No need for dots but simple lines that are 1 mil each would be pretty useful. I could hold in between for 200 yards. Then between the next set of lines for 300 etc.

A 300 blk and 6.8 spc will drop more. A 6.5 creed or 223 will drop less. So this example is a good middle ground. Not sure if something like this is doable or not but just giving you the numbers of what most guys would be using.
 
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#239
Completely agree with generalzip above.

1 mil spacing with simple hash lines would be great.

Given the screen limitations I’m sure substentions wouldn’t be perfect but close would be better than we have available.

Personally I’d be very happy with hash marks consistently spaced 3 pixels (appx 3 MOA at native power) apart. 4 would work too.

Since you can’t make true mil spacing, each guy can figure out how his caliber and load correspond to your reticle, and since it will be close to mil spacing guys can treat them as mils in a pinch and be pretty close.

My preference would be for closer spacing (3) vs making the “mils” bigger.

I see no reason to limit the number of mils. If the screen can fit 5 do 5, ten do ten etc. I shoot coyotes at obscene distances day and night because they kill my cattle. Ethics be damned, if I can see it I’m taking a shot.
 
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#240
Another idea given the limitations of the pixels is you have a crosshair that's 2mil by 2 mil (4 sections of 1 mil). Then you alternate the crosshair between blank and solid lines 1 mil each. No hashes, no dots, no sub-tension. Keeps it simple and clean and you only need to do this for maybe 4-5 mils then make it all solid for the rest for close in shots/movers.
 
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#241
Also no need to worry about the 1 MOA pixel size. The beauty is at 2x zoom one pixel is .5moa. At 4x zoom it's .25 moa. Nobody is taking a 400 yard shot with a FFP reticle on 3.5 native zoom they will be at least on 2x digital. I'd build the reticle around 2x digital (7x optical). At native 3.5x zoom guys are inside 150-200 yards and don't need to use anything but the center crosshairs. Once you get to 250+ guys will be on 2x digital maybe 4x so you effectively "gain" resolution on the screen in a way. Let me know if that made any sense haha or if im mistaken in some way on how the pixels of the screen work. I'm assuming you magnification increases but pixel size of the screen stays the same.
 
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#245
generalzip said:
Nobody is taking a 400 yard shot with a FFP reticle on 3.5 native zoom they will be at least on 2x digital. I'd build the reticle around 2x digital (7x optical). At native 3.5x zoom guys are inside 150-200 yards and don't need to use anything but the center crosshairs. Once you get to 250+ guys will be on 2x digital maybe 4x so you effectively "gain" resolution on the screen in a way.
Click to expand...

There it is.

I signed in just to post that but Generalzip beat me to it.

Design the reticle around a 2x zoom (4x may be too grainy, although the Halo does have the BEST digital zoom picture quality in the entire industry right now, bar none. How did you guys do it?), so that the subtensions are in measurement only at 2x, which is where they would be used anyhow.

At 1x, doesn't matter.

Here's to stirring up the the waters and shaking the industry with your home run, Nvision. ?
 
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