I haven’t. I’m sending this one back to Seekins for repair or replacement.
Seekins HAVAK Precision Rifle
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I haven’t. I’m sending this one back to Seekins for repair or replacement.
I agree that the CS is great, but not ever needing it would be the much preferred option. There is a string of videos on YT where a guy was having FTF issues on his 300wm Havak. He sent it back, got it back after 4-6 weeks with a list of a bunch of replaced parts. Shot it, more FTFs. Sent it back again. Another 4-6 weeks later, got it back, still had a couple FTFs.
Oh and about 1.5-2" groups with any ammo he tries.
I'm hopeful this is limited to his rifle, or the 300wm chambering, because I have one in 6.5 prc on order and about a month from being built.
Oh and about 1.5-2" groups with any ammo he tries.
I'm hopeful this is limited to his rifle, or the 300wm chambering, because I have one in 6.5 prc on order and about a month from being built.
I have also seen those videos you are referring too. I think (hoping) it was that rifle only. I have a PH1 in 6.5 CM and I have no problem with it, but I am going to sell it for a PH1 in 6.5 PRC instead! Just waiting to see if I can buy a discount card off someone before I place my order.
I had to send my Havak Pro HP1 back to Seekins, but it wasn't the rifle's or their fault. I can tend to get a bit heavy handed with things, and before I knew it I had a hammer in my hand... Bad things happened and they fixed it, literally with no questions asked. I probably have 'dumbass of the year award' locked in and we're not even half way through the year.
My point, Seekins took care of MY issue that I caused. Good folks in my book. Got the gun back in a week and it's back to shooting lights out.
My point, Seekins took care of MY issue that I caused. Good folks in my book. Got the gun back in a week and it's back to shooting lights out.
Where was the wear located on the .308 magazine? the feed lips?
If you compare the 300WSM and 308 mags, put the feed lips together, you'll notice the 300WSM is wider. that is to compensate for the 6.5 PRC being fatter.
That's a bummer that it will not sit in the magwell.
You can see by my thumb it's worn-- its also bent pretty bad, just cannot tell from this picture. Shipped my rifle back today-- I am confidant Seekins will get things working perfectly!
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I was also slightly irritated by the magazines as well. My gripe is that the mag well that they put in on the long action does not accept the PMAG Magnum – AICS Long Action; where’s the short actions accept the PMAG short action mags.
Also, I wish they would with recess the crown and/or give a thread protector that slightly extended out beyond the barrel.
All that said, I’m still liking the rifle and plan to hump it on a backpack elk hunt in Utah.
Also, I wish they would with recess the crown and/or give a thread protector that slightly extended out beyond the barrel.
All that said, I’m still liking the rifle and plan to hump it on a backpack elk hunt in Utah.
My PRC doesn't take PMAGS. I had to buy accurate mags. Good luck on your Elk hunt!!
I have the ARC M10 rings in .94 (low) with a Athlon Cronus BTR with a 56mm OBJ.
I would expect the NF low tings to work, and to be a tad high (depending on your cheekbones). I love the NF rings, but tend to use them on rifles with adjustable cheek pieces. Badger or Seekins lows should work great.
My Seekins Havak shot great yesterday at the Sporting Rifle Match in Raton, NM. The Foundation Stock performed awesome as well. Wasn’t my best showing because of the shifty mountain winds, finished 16th out of 50 shooters. I’ll be back to try again next month!
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Working up loads for my Havak Bravo. Looks like the sweet spot is right around 41.6gr of 4350 with a 140gr ELDM and Lapua brass.
This is at 300y. The orange dot is 2”. It is only 4 rounds because I used the 5th to include in my ladder.
Very very happy with the accuracy and precision of this rifle.
This is at 300y. The orange dot is 2”. It is only 4 rounds because I used the 5th to include in my ladder.
Very very happy with the accuracy and precision of this rifle.
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Try, Windgypsy and I had issues with my 300 WM but got it corrected by a Gunsmith and turned out to be a real shooter with Hornady PH 200gr
Alarka, what issue did your gunsmith identify with your 300 WM? I have a Havak in 300 WM and can't get anything less than 1.2 MOA. Tried ELD-X and Bergers over H1000 powder at different depths and charges with no luck. I'm pretty sure it's not living up to the accuracy potential it should have.
I have rifles and actions at my store. Tomorrow I'll check on the ejector for you(I dont remember right now).
As far as how it compares, I don't like it as much as Defiance and I prefer Curtis over the Defiance. The action wasn't nearly as smooth (out of the box) as others. Then again, keep in mind it isn't nearly as expensive either.
Had a productive evening confirming my dope for a rifle match on Saturday. When I get home I finished loading my final 13 140gr ELDM 6.5mm rounds and open a fresh 500 round box of........ 108gr ELDM 6mm. Well there goes my weekend. Thanks a lot Powder Valley.
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For the guy asking, I checked my rifles and actions at the store. It is a plunger style setup...
I know this is an old question, but it went unanswered, so I'll answer it for the sake of posterity and knowledge sharing.
On an MPA Chassis, I needed to do some dremel work to have the bolt release clear the action channel (see below). However, I can also confirm that the Havak action fits perfectly out of the box on a KRG Whiskey 3 (6th Gen). No fitting was required either to the recoil lug pocket or the action channel. I did need to wiggle it in a bit, but everything worked without needing files or a dremel.
So, to answer your question, long story short, it depends.
For anyone asking about magazine issues, here are some thoughts, but take with a grain of salt. I probably only have 100 rounds through my 6.5CM Havak so far (the heavy barrel non fluted version, don't remember whether that's PH1 or HP1).
- AICS 10 Round Metal: Feeds well, but occasionally hangs up just a tiny bit going up the feed ramp. Maybe 1-2 times per mag. I give a little extra push on the bolt knob and it chambers.
- AICS 5 Round Metal: Feed perfectly every time.
- Accurate Mag 10 Round Metal: Completely hopeless. Has never been able to feed a single round smoothly.
- Magpul PMAG 5 Round Polymer: Feeds well. This came with the Havak,
- Magpul PMAG 10 Round Polymer: Feeds pretty well. On par with the AICS 10 round.
Got a 600yd group of 5.580" with my 6.5 Havak today. I'm still tweaking my load but this rifle continues to impress.
I finally got some 147gr ELD's for my PRC and found that they only fit in an AICS mag without the binder plate. Luckily I have one but found the rounds don't feed smoothly at all. Unless I ram that bolt closed, it'll hang up every time. What magazines do they normally come with in the Bravo Havak PRC's? I dropped mine into a Bravo from that carbon fiber stock.
Mine came with a 308 Accurate-Mag, which is actually the wrong magazine.
Accurate-Mag 300WSM mags work (without Binder). The feed lips are wider and helps feed better the magnum size diameter. All other dimensions are the same as 308 mags, except feed lip width.
There are tools you can use to widen the 308 lips. Magpul mags wont work with 6.5PRC. Internal length is too short.
Finally got to “stretch” the 6 Creed to 450 for some groups. I continue to be impressed with this rifle as it’s fired almost everything I have under .5 and most much better. Here was the first group at 450 with 105 vld 42.2 h4350 was. Next week I hope to get it out to 1200.
I just picked up the Havak Bravo 308 from my local gun shop and got my scope mounted up. Now that the scope is on, I just discovered that I cannot reinsert the bolt again. I did not change anything with the scope base, so there should be no issues with a screw contacting. I took the scope back off and tried again, but the bolt will still not go back into action. It can get about 80% in and then just stops. Is there some super secret way to put this bolt in that differs from the countless other bolt guns that I have owned and used?
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Is it somehow binding with the bolt stop? Make sure the bolt channel lines up with the bolt stop
I took my PRC out this weekend that I put into the a Bravo and 50% of the time the magazine drops out when I pull the trigger. There is a lot of slop in the mag side to side (not front to back, I adjusted that) in the magwell. Anyone else run into this and how did you solve it?
When you took the bolt out you might have bumped the “shroud” I think it’s called. It can rotate with fingers and it will click into place.... I did the same thing and couldn’t figure it out for a little bit but finally rotated the back of the bolt and it clicked into place. Try that and see if it works.
Mine has a lot of slop and movement but no issues with feeding or mags dropping out.
Have u tried diff mags?
I installed the KRG barrier stop in front of the Bravo magwell and it helped a bit. But still alotta side to side play.
I think you can adjust the magwell fitment with the trigger guard screw...not sure on that.
I’m going to shoot a match without my suppressor and see if the muzzle brake helps me spot my shots any better. My can, SDN6, is very heavy and shooting today it really didn’t seem like much of a difference. Groups were about the same if not maybe a little better. Time to load ammo now.
Didn’t get a pic without the can lol
Didn’t get a pic without the can lol
@Wormydog1724 : Looking over most of your shot group pics I have a question. Most of the groups list a "Mean Radius" and "Group Size". Can you explain the difference in the two factors? As above if it's showing a 300+shot group that is still sub-MOA that's some great shooting. Thanks.
- Feb 16, 2017
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If you were to draw radial lines from the center of the group, add them together, and then divide by the number of rounds that gives you the mean radius. It could also be called the average distance from center.
Generally group size is the farthest center to center spread for the group, this seems to be the industry standard for measuring “MOA” or “group size” for a given rifle and shooter.
Hope that helps - ATTACK
Correct. Big yellow circle is the group size, blue rectangle is group area, mean radius is how far the average shot is from the center of the group.
Getting them all small is the goal but the mean radius is also useful to see if the group averages smaller than the group size actually is. For example, You can have a 2” group size with a 1” mean radius meaning all shots are within 2” of each other and all shots are 1” from the center. You can also have a 2” group size with a .5” mean radius, which could be caused by a “flyer”, or two, but most shots fall within .5” of center, which is better. Example pictures attached to this post. Both are 2” groups but one has a smaller mean radius.
I’m going to try to do 300y 5 shot groups from now on, I feel like they’re more telling to my rifle’s true accuracy potential. Example, my 303yard group above, my first three shots were the three closest together. I thought about stopping there and calling that a badass group. But I kept going at the cost of posting an awesome group. My fourth shot was high and my fifth was right. Sure a .28moa 3-shot group at 303y would have been awesome, but a .74moa 5-shot group is more representative of my rifle, in my opinion anyways.
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So from what I have learned about MOA. 100yds all shots inside a 1" group size means 1MOA...200yds all shots inside a 2" group size means 2MOA.
For what you are showing the rifle/you are shooting sub-MOA right? Even out to 300+ yds....right?
For what you are showing the rifle/you are shooting sub-MOA right? Even out to 300+ yds....right?
2" group @ 200 yards is still roughly 1MOA. 4" @ 200 yards would be ~2 MOA
Yes. At 303y my 5-shot group was 2.34”, which is .74moa, that’s sub-1moa.
A true sub-moa rifle should be sub-moa, regardless of the distance to the target.
That would be exactly correct for IPHY. But 1 MOA at 100y is actually slightly more than one inch.
Addditionally, sub MOA is considered the standard for pretty much any rifle intended for any type of precision. It's pretty much expected. The only factory rifle I have ever shot that struggled to print a sub-MOA group, even after trigger work and a bedding job, has been a Ruger American Predator in .308 - averages about 1.5MOA. Not my rifle and not typical of that line of rifles(said owner's bro in-law has the same rifle in 6.5cm that is a sub-moa gun).
Sub 1/2MOA out of a factory 'match/precision' rifle is considered exceptional.
Custom rifles are expected to shoot pretty much bugholes with factory match ammo.
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