Suppressors Dielectric Grease ... (Best Advice EVER)

rustyinbend

GySgt USMC 1976-1992
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Dec 9, 2018
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    Bend, Oregon
    Can't remember which one of you gave me the tip to coat internal parts with Dielectric Grease to make it easier to disassemble my Sparrow-22 for cleaning ... but whoever you are ... THANK YOU. Pre-advice, taking my suppressor apart was a 3-day nightmare where I was always afraid of breaking it. Post-advice, it's a 60-second breeze ... slicker than snot on a warm brass doorknob. This was the BEST advice I've ever gotten on this forum.
     
    I’m wondering... would the addition of dielectric, KY, etc be the same as shooting it wet?

    I would think so. So this would also yield the benefit of reducing first round pop. But, on the other hand, you would need a can rated for shooting wet.
     
    I’m wondering... would the addition of dielectric, KY, etc be the same as shooting it wet?

    I would think so. So this would also yield the benefit of reducing first round pop. But, on the other hand, you would need a can rated for shooting wet.
    Nope ... big difference. The dielectric grease is just lightly rubbed on the static parts to make the can break down and disassemble easier. Shooting a can "wet" is when you actually inject gel into the can for the bullet to pass through (or around). It's the difference between a "dab" that you rub in before reassembly, and a "squirt" that you goop into the can just before shooting it.
     
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    Thanks for clarifying rusty. I was picturing a blob of it in the can. Sounds more like it is a thin film evenly spread.

    I think I’ll be doing my 22 cans this way from now on.
     
    That's good advice I will try this. Taking my .22 suppressor apart is a nightmare to the point I don't shoot it as much because of it.
     
    I've been preaching the dielectric grease for some time. Makes disassbly and clean up so much better. I also think it doesn't do anything for sound reduction.

    When I got my first pistol and .22 cans waaaay back in the day from Innovative arms (I’m semi local to them in SC) the owner suggested Dielectric grease to me for the piston/spring and threads. I took it a step further and lightly coated the outside of the baffles/inside of the tubes and have been doing it ever since. Fouling just wipes right off, nothing has ever carbon locked in place... I recommend it pretty regularly but this is the first time I’ve seen someone else mention it :)
     
    Can't remember which one of you gave me the tip to coat internal parts with Dielectric Grease to make it easier to disassemble my Sparrow-22 for cleaning ... but whoever you are ... THANK YOU. Pre-advice, taking my suppressor apart was a 3-day nightmare where I was always afraid of breaking it. Post-advice, it's a 60-second breeze ... slicker than snot on a warm brass doorknob. This was the BEST advice I've ever gotten on this forum.
    Which brand are you using?
    I have a Sparrow but haven't taken it apart yet. SiCo recommended every 500-700 rds or something like that.
    Would a silicone based anti-seize, such as Permatex 24129, work the same? That's what I use on can threads. Works great. Thanks.
     
    There are a million kinds of high heat anti-seize, but almost all of the good ones are copper.

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    I've never heard of using dialectic grease. I always thought that was more for moisture than for heat and carbon, but as long as it doesn't break down under high heat I would think it would work fine. On the other hand I know that copper grease is made to take really high heat like a can generates, and I've been using it on suppressors for 30+ years including full auto. You can get the can stupid, red hot and it still will not seize up or come loose. I bought a little box of those plastic one shot tubes at NAPA about ten years ago and I still about half left. It only takes a tiny smear on all the threads and it's good to go.
     
    I know @paco ramirez (CSG) recommends bore butter, accomplishes the same thing.
    I know he does and I have one of their 9mm cans.
    Shoot it dry btw. But I found it very inferior to dielectric grease in rimfire can. Bore Butter starts to melt at fairly low temperature. I accidentally got 2 tubes from Amazon. I'll give it to someone who wants it.
     
    I know he does and I have one of their 9mm cans.
    Shoot it dry btw. But I found it very inferior to dielectric grease in rimfire can. Bore Butter starts to melt at fairly low temperature. I accidentally got 2 tubes from Amazon. I'll give it to someone who wants it.

    pics of what you ordered?
    waiting for a suppressor to be free from the waiting game, but where are you guys putting this grease on? Only certain suppressor brands needed?
     
    I, and the OP, are talking about putting something on the baffles/core of rimfire cans to make them easier to disassemble and clean. Others are talking about what they use to lubricate threads and they are not talking about rimfires. Kind of confusing.
     
    You’re right. I did not get that, but anti seize on threads doesn’t matter centerfire or rimfire.
    I put Frog Lube or Seal lube on the internals of rimfire to make it easier to clean, but I will try dialectic grease if it works. I would think the spray kind. Does it matter spray or paste?